Honda - Accord :: 1997 - Clunking Noise On Right Turn
Jan 29, 2014
My 1997 Honda, with 200,000 miles was making a clunking noise when I turned right. The mechanic replaced the rack & pinion, which stopped the clunking. However, it still makes a rhythmical softer clunking or clicking sound on right turns. It takes a while on the road for this to start, but once it starts, it happens on every single right turn. The mechanic said there is nothing wrong with the axle or the struts or anything whatsoever and it is probably just the flap hitting the fender, or something like that bec the car is so old. However, the noise is too rhythmical, too consistent for me to be confident that it is just pieces of rubber or metal randomly brushing together.
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I've got a 2000 Accord. I recently started hearing and feeling a hard knocking/clunking noise at the front-center of the car during the correct after a left turn. My trustworthy mechanic told me the subframe is rusted out on the right side and that it isn't safe to drive until the subframe is replaced (he also said he's seen several of these this last year). He suggested that the cause is that the hose leading away or down from the air conditioner is too short, and leaks directly onto the subframe. There is no recall on this problem currently. I've done some Internet research and there is some buzz about this, but not as much as I was hoping for.
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I have a 97 accord that i am having issues with. When I turn the key it does not crank luckily it is manual tranny so i jump start it. the battery is good i also put new terminals thinking those were the issue but still having problems.
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Last night we noticed that the main brake lights (not the CHMSL) on our 1997 Accord sedan wouldn't turn off. I tapped and released the brake pedal to make sure it wasn't stuck. Changed gears through drive, reverse, and park. The lights were continually lit, even after the car was shut off. I didn't want them to drain the battery, so I removed the bulbs (boy, were they HOT) and the car is now grounded temporarily.When I pulled the bulbs, I saw a warning light on the dash come on. I red bar near the bottom of the (non-working) speedometer that says Brake Lights or something. I think it's short hand for "Hey you idiot! Put the brake light bulbs back in!"So at least it knows the circuit is broken. So, the question is, what caused this,and how do I fix it without taking it to the dealership?
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My car makes a noise like metal scraping metal when I turn left. The sound comes and goes, and is loudest when I make a left turn from a standstill. I have had my car looked at twice in the past 3 months. The first place told me a need a new rack and pinion, and the second said my tires being low was the only issue. My car will go weeks sometimes without making the noise, and then suddenly start again.
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Was driving 97 honda Accord 4 cylinder today when it made a loud rattling noise, took it in to advanced auto parts to see if they could give me a hint to what was wrong, as I was showing the employee the noise got progressively worse and he told me the connecting rod was loose and I could make it home if I went under 35 he mentioned something about tightening two bolts but having to drop the oil pan to get to it, as I was driving home the noise eventually turned into a clunk and the car died, when I try to start it up you can hear the engine turn but there is nothing after that, don't know much about cars but what is the process I need to go through to replace this connecting rod myself and how to get the car to start again.
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After coming home at a late night in my 2005 Honda Accord, I heard noise coming from the drivers side front wheel. I've heard this noise once before after a rock got stuck up in my brakes. I pulled into a parking lot and jacked up the car and got the tire off. I couldn't see anything that would be making the noise. After going to get something from the trunk the car fell off the jack. I had a tow truck come and lift it up. We put the tire back on and he said there shouldn't be anything serious and I no longer heard the noise coming from the wheel on my way home. But after driving it the next day, I noticed when the car is turned sharply to the right while driving, it makes a scratching/screeching noise. What could have happened?
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So i have a 1996 honda accord, i recently just got a new motor put in it. Its a used motor but a good one. I picked the car up from the shop yesterday, i drove it all day yesterday and today. It drives and sounds so much better than it did before. My husband goes to leave for work this evening and it wont start, it just makes a click noise when you turn the key, it wont even crank over. The battery is brand new and not used, the starter is brand new and not used, we just got both this year. It sounds like the clicking noise is coming from where the starter is, somewhere in that area. Could the starter have went bad on us? He checked all the cables and wires to see maybe if something is loose, everything seems to be in tact and tight.
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I have a 2001 supercab 4x4 with a 4.6 in it, it has 186k on it and the only issues I've had was a misfire not to long ago. I replaced the plugs and coil packs and fixed that issue. 2 days ago she ran fine with no issues and this morning I went out to go to the store and she wouldn't start. All the dash lights come on and all of that normal stuff when you turn the key. When I turn the key I hear what sounds kind of like a clunking noise towards the bottom of the windshield and the middle of the dash. The starter does not engage, no nothing, really confused here. I thought maybe the battery was bad so I put my jumper on it and tried but again nothing happened.
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My girlfriend has a 2007, v6, Honda Accord. She had difficulty turning the steering wheel, accompanied with a loud noise. She took it to a local garage and they diagnosed it as a leak in the power steering hose which she had replaced for about $400. When she used the car the following day, the problem was still there and seemed to be a little worse. She called the garage and they said for her to bring the car back which we'll be doing tomorrow. Also, coincidentally, we saw that Honda issued a recall for this. [URL] ...... As a result, we have the following questions:
-Is there any recourse for full or partial reimbursement from Honday? After all, if we took it to Honda, then Honda dealer would bill Honda Manufacturer anway.
-Should garages be familiar with recalls?
-Assuming the local garage fixes the problem, do you recommend that we still take it to the dealership?
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The speedometer on my car works intermittently. When I accelerate and release I hear a loud clicking noise and my speedometer and rpm stop working. It will jump from different speeds dropping to zero. Is my speedometer on its way out or could it be something else?
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I have a 2002 accord 4-cyl with a 5-speed with 89,xxx miles. Just a few months ago, I noticed a clunking sound coming from the front suspension when I go over certain bumps. "Certain" bumps are usually wavy pavement or dips (not wide dips, but short/concise ones), and sometimes certain speed bumps. Sometimes the sound happens regardless of the types of bumps though, but the aforementioned ones usually bring the noise quite consistently. The sound hasn't really gotten worse, but it hasn't been getting better either.
A while back when I had my timing belt done, the mechanic stated that one (or more) of my engine mounts were worn. Is it possible one or more of my engine mounts is the source of this issue (from the engine "rattling" around in the compartment. I'm not sure if that's even possible, just a hypothesis) or is it purely suspension. PS. The sound isn't quite a sharp metal on metal sound. Its more of a "thump" or "clunk" coming from the front end (left or right) as if its bottoming out or a bushing or spacer has worn off. Its just loud enough to drive me crazy, and sometimes I can feel it through the floor.
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I own a 1997 Honda Odyssey-a couple of weeks ago when I turned the key it wouldn't start....no noise,no clicking however the battery was working. I called Road service for a tow home and while waiting,I kept putting in the key.After 20 min.the car started and I drove home. Since then it's gotten worse. It's a gamble to go any where, never knowing if it will start or not. My husband replaced the ignition switch-that didn't work and now says he'll replace the starter ( if that doesn't work he plans on replacing the entire ignition cylinder). My alarm system hooks into the ignition...
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My 07 Accord V6 won't turn over. Brand new battery showing 12.5 volts, and I checked all the fuses. All other electrical is in working condition. Had the wife turn the key while I tapped on the starter with no luck. Then I measured the voltage coming into the solenoid from the starter while sitting there and 0 volts, then had the wife turn the key and it was showing 10.5 volts.
I took off the kick panel and swapped the ACC relay for the starter cut relay ( they're identical) and still nothing. I'm pretty much down to it being a problem with the ignition switch, but I'm not looking forward to getting into the steering column. What else it could be, or have some tips for what I should do / be looking for if I get into the steering column?
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I have a 1992 accord Lx +200k. The problem I have is the car wont start. It will crank but wont turn over. I thought it might have been the fuel pump relay so I replaced it. It worked for awhile but now the problem has persist.
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I've replaced the turn signal switch, bulbs and relay fuse. Hazards work and everything else, just no signals. What am I missing??
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I have a 1997 Honda Accord with 193000 miles... I'm trying to decide if I should sell it, as I'm getting concerned about it's future, especially the transmission (automatic). It seems to lurch once in a while, probably between first and second gear. I could sell it now for several thousand (ABS is out). If I keep driving it and the transmission dies, it's worthless, isn't it?. I don't know if the transmission fluid has ever been changed. When I recently got my oil changed, the mechanic said that he would leave it alone if I don't know if it's been changed before. Change the transmission fluid?
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I decided to go with the 97 Accord with 156K. It's really in beautiful condition and the seller had an envelope with service records for everything - routine and otherwise. The car runs strongly but at idle or slowing to a red light, the oil light faintly flickers. Once I had driven it for awhile, the flickering stopped and didn't return at the ide/slow speed. Explanation? Should I be deeply troubled by this?
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I have a 97 Honda Accord ex, and no matter how hot or cold it is outside, if the car hasn't been ran in more than an hour or two, it needs 5 minutes to warm up, (RPMs go down to 500, then rev up to 1200. That's how I know I can go) or else when driving it will stay in first gear and not allow me to go faster than 20 MPH. My mechanic said that the codes P0171 and P0505 came up. Also, the gas mileage is terrible, even after my fuel filter was changed.
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As you can glean from Discussion Title, I have a 97 Honda Accord that has been weak in producing cold air with the a/c on since we bought it three years ago. The car has been the "third car" for kids to drive so not a big deal. Now that one of the "kids" is commuting this summer to an internship, the hot car is a problem. I drove the car this morning as I just drive to the train, and noticed mist coming out of the dashboard vents when the a/c was on. The mist stopped when the a/c was turned off.
Does this misting mean we have an evaporator core leak, or other problem? It certainly doesn't seem like just a freon boost is needed. If the evaporator core needs to be replaced, how bad a job is that? I replaced one in a '72 Plymouth Duster once and didn't seem so bad.
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I have a 1991 Accord that won't turn on the high beams. I can pull the dimmer switch and it clicks and the dash indicator comes on for the high beams but it just keeps the low beams on. I am guessing the dimmer relay isn't working properly but am not sure how to test it. Also where would I buy one? I have checked a couple sites and even a search doesn't bring it up.
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