Honda - Accord :: 1996 V6 Stuttering When Driving At A Constant Speed
Jun 12, 2013
My 1996 Honda Accord V6 has a stuttering problem. It only happens (or is only noticeable) when driving at a constant speed. It is most noticeable when driving in the 45 - 55 mph range. It feels like the engine has millisecond breaks in power. And this does not happen all the time. Some days, it drives just fine with no problems. It idles fine. The problem is not noticeable, if there at all, during acceleration.
One other piece of information that might - or might not - be relevant is that the tachometer seems to be out of its mind. It bounces all over the place up and down. This also does not happen all the time, and it seems to me, though I'm not 100% certain, that the stuttering problem only happens when the tach is crazy..I have had no luck getting a mechanic to diagnose the problem. They claim the tach problem is totally unrelated.
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My sons car is a 96 accord. For some reason, it's developed a new problem. After 15 minutes of driving it will stall, and it will not restart. It seems to be if it's left to sit long enough, it will restart(it does crank, just not turnover). That period of time it needs to sit seems more then 10-15 minutes, but we are not exactly certain. After several hours, it seems to start and run fine. We had it towed to the mechanic, they where not able to reproduce it. It's not overheating, the temp gauge stays below half. No check engine light is on.
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I had my car tuned up a month ago. The very next day, on cold start, the engine starts stuttering and the rpm got real low to the point where it almost shuts off. On more than one occasion it did shut off. If I press the gas peddle, it revs properly. I thought I'd give it some time to see if it got better, but it hasn't. Yesterday, in the middle of the day (car had been parked for 8 hours), on cold start it did it again (93 degrees outside, so it's not cold weather dependent). It stuttered when I came to the stoplight, and so I put it in park to hit the gas peddle and rev the engine to get it warmer. When I put it back into drive, it stuttered and shut off at the light. It never stuttered prior to the tuneup.
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My Honda has a pop or clunk when braking at low speeds( below 5mph) just before coming to a stop. It will pop as I start forward again (below 5mph). It only occurs when the outside temperature is above 90-95 degrees and after driving for 10-15 minutes. Dealership has looked at it twice and has not found any issue. I've changed brake pads and rotors as well as lubricated everything - didn't work. Brake performance, handling, etc isn't affected. It's highly annoying and makes me worry that something will eventually fail.
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My sons 1996 accord has a constant drip coming from the right side of the motor (4cy). I think it may be the water pump, as I see no hoses in the area where the leak appears. How difficult a job would this be and what do you suppose a garage would charge.
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I have a 2007 Honda Element and she'll be rolling over 200K miles later this year. Ellie runs great except for one odd little quirk and she's done it since I bought her, a year and a half ago.
As I am accelerating, if I steady my speed around two certain spots, (25ish mph and 40ish mph), my car sometimes stutters. It's almost as if she is trying to figure out what gear to be in and is bouncing between the two. Could it be something as simple as a sensor? I don't know where to start with this one.
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I have a 96' honda accord LX and I have no low beams. Set on low beams I have no lights. Set on high beams sometime it switches to low beams, then 3 or 4 minute pass and it stays on high beams for the duration of the car ride till I turn the car off.
I have replaced the dimmer relay and the turn signal switch. What's wrong with it? A guy at auto zone it could be one of my body control modulators, is this it?
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My 2001 Prelude (not SH) develops a vibration felt throughout the car and particularly the steering wheel after several minutes of constant highway (60 - 75 MPH) speed travel. Thought it might be a brake caliper sticking, but the car does not pull left or right. After 7 or 8 minutes of vibration, it stops and the ride is smooth as glass.
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This truck has 180km on it and runs fine except as of lately i have developed a surge while at constant speed. When i step on the gas it does not seem to happen.....it only happens when I reach a constant speed. The odd time it will surge at idle and the engine will rev up and down on its own also. When at highway speed it seems to not do this. The truck never dies completely....just surges slightly.
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A few days ago my 98 C1500 started having what I can only imagine is some type of torque converter issue. While driving at a constant speed the RPM will surge by about 500-600. This surge does not coincide with any type of acceleration, it's more like the converter is letting go and the RPM's just rise and fall back down. The fluctuations also seem to stop after about 15 minutes of normal driving. I have had no real noticeable transmission issues. At first i assumed it was my tranny fluid just breaking down so to get me home I used a bottle of Lucas.
The bottle seemed to do the trick for only a couple of days and now the problem is back...no better, no worse. The only difference I have noticed is that before the addition of the Lucas my fluid looked perfect and now it seems there is a bit of varnish. No smell, nothing seems burnt, just a little dirty. I haven't changed the tranny fluid for about 70k and the truck now has roughly 160K on it. My concern is that if I do change it the transmission will crap completely and I'll be on the hook for a rebuild.
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*1996 Honda accord LX. 255, 498 miles.
Well, a couple months ago I think I overdid it on the seafoam spray in my PCV valve. It was kind of hell to start, I put some starter fluid in there and it finally cranked right over. I thought that was the end of it, but now I'm thinking it was a coincidence.
Today I went to start my car and it wouldn't rev up to about 200 max out and then drop. If I stopped cranking it with the key, it would die. Well I put starter fluid in the car and it still wouldn't go! I had to crank it for about 12 seconds to get it to turn over, normally when the engine catches(My foots full on the throttle when it won't start) it soars to 2.5k RPMs pretty quick. I started it later at school and it acted like it wanted to give me trouble, but a second past and it turned over and started running. I pull into the driveway today and I see my oil light flickering a little bit. First time I've ever seen it, a little worried! I turn the back on, starts up right away, to see if the oil light comes back on and nothing. But still worried.
I also got a coolant leak somewhere that I haven't been to diligent about finding. I don't see coolant anywhere on the driveway, my cars drinking coolant and I don't know where it's going. I checked it the other day and the reservoir tank was bone dry and so was the top of the radiator. I just added some UV dye to see where it's going, UV flashlight is on the way.
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I have a 1996 honda accord. I recently took it into a shop because it wouldn't start and was leaking oil. They replaced the battery cable and told me I needed an axle. I then have an oil leak, and my car will still not start. I take it back, ok, they said I need an oil pan. I get the oil pan and had to take the car back 2 more times because it was still leaking oil.
The one time they put on a gasket and the next an oil drain plug. Two days later I get home and my oil light is on. There is oil all over my driveway and it is leaking everywhere. Bigger than any previous leak. They pay to have my car towed to the shop and call me the next day to say the seal fell out and this is a common problem with the 96 accords. I need a timing belt kit. They told me there was no way to notice this oil leaking from this component. Is this an accurate depiction, or am I getting the run around?
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I have a 2002 camry with 212000 miles on it and just lately when driving at a constant speed 60 mph or over it starts to buck or jerk a little bit and you can feel it in the seat. I've had the throttle body cleaned and put in a new mass air flow sensor and it hasn't fixed it yet. What might be causing this? It doesn't do it when accelerating or slowing down.
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We have a 2003 Passat GLX, 43000 miles, V6, AWD. I've noticed recently that when driving at constant speed the engine will surge about once every second or two. It's very regular, and on a smooth road I can also notice a bump in the drive train, very similar to road bumps.
I've taken it to a dealer, since I believe it is a transmission issue, and therefor covered under warranty. There are no computer codes stored for faults in the transmission, they've said. However, they started by pursuing the fuel injection system (though no code was stored), and then wanted to fix a faulty coolant sensor (since found not to be faulty).
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I have a 1996 Honda Accord 4 cyl. with 150 K miles. Had a coolant leak that the shop fixed. About 60 days later, same problem. I have to refill radiator every other day. What I noticed is a brown soft muck buildup at the radiator cap area. Also the car seems to run rough on and off. The underside of the oil cap is clean, no carmel color ( oil and coolant mixture) buildup.
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Intermittent start on 96 accord, will start 1in 4 times. no noise as if it was dead. replaced starter. worked for a week... did it again after a few days.. replaced starter again.. diagnostic on electrical ok....
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my 2006 GX has 95000 miles and recently i've noticed a slight hesitation followed by a slight surge in speed while driving at a constant speed. it almost feels like i'm pushing the accelerator then releasing it. its a very mild difference but i'm guessing tranny and have 5k left on my warranty. it occurs at a variety of different speeds but most noticeable at about 35-40mph and up around 55mph.
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I have an 04 Elantra GT and have been noticing a jerkiness when driving at a constant speed on the highway. I haven't noticed it around town or while accelerating. I also have noticed that when I disengage the clutch on the highway, the engine sometimes doesn't respond right away, or it even may surge. This has happened when exiting the highway when I disengage the clutch. The engine will slow, then speed up close to 3000 rpms.
I also had a check engine light come on and couple months ago. The code indicated that the upstream O2 sensor was bad. I took it out and cleaned it, but didn't replace it. Is this a likely culprit for this set of symptoms? If so, how can I test the sensor to be sure? I heard that I could disconnect it and run the car and see if the surging lessens, but wasn't sure if that was a good thing to do.
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I have a new 2015 Subaru Forester and I noticed the following problem: When driving at a constant low speed, in the 20-30 MPH range, the car bucks/hesitates slightly off and on, while driving. At first I thought the engine was missing, but I noticed the RPM was at about 1000 RPM, very low. And a missing engine would cause a "check engine" warning.
So I think this is a combination of the CVT and the engine lugging. The CVT should move down a notch to a lower "gear" but it doesn't, so the engine is forced to operate at a problem speed. A normal transmission would downshift, I would think.
Can I do anything to solve this, other than manually shift to the low range?
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The check engine light stays on. The hood of my car was not securely locked when I purchased it, I'm sure it's due to an accident because it's damaged. Can the hood be a reason the check engine light stays on..it does not blink.
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So, i have a 1996 honda accord, i just had a new alternator put on yesterday. Well before then, when the old one was still in the car, my car would heat up while i was sitting still and it was drinking coolant and water like crazy!!! I was thinking that maybe i was having a head problem, but i didn't see any tell tale signs of coolant leaking over into the oil. So, today was the first day i drove to work with the new alternator on, i filled it up with coolant before i left for work, i drove 20 minutes to work and 20 minutes back home.
The temperature gauge never moved above the middle line, even when i was at a sit still with the car on. I checked the coolant level after the car cooled off, and it was still pretty full. Could a bad alternator effect the performance of your cooling system? I am by no means, complaining about this, I am very happy my car isn't heating up abnormally anymore, just curious was the alternator my problem?
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