Honda - Accord :: 1996 LX - No Low Beams
Nov 30, 2011
I have a 96' honda accord LX and I have no low beams. Set on low beams I have no lights. Set on high beams sometime it switches to low beams, then 3 or 4 minute pass and it stays on high beams for the duration of the car ride till I turn the car off.
I have replaced the dimmer relay and the turn signal switch. What's wrong with it? A guy at auto zone it could be one of my body control modulators, is this it?
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I have a 1991 Accord that won't turn on the high beams. I can pull the dimmer switch and it clicks and the dash indicator comes on for the high beams but it just keeps the low beams on. I am guessing the dimmer relay isn't working properly but am not sure how to test it. Also where would I buy one? I have checked a couple sites and even a search doesn't bring it up.
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*1996 Honda accord LX. 255, 498 miles.
Well, a couple months ago I think I overdid it on the seafoam spray in my PCV valve. It was kind of hell to start, I put some starter fluid in there and it finally cranked right over. I thought that was the end of it, but now I'm thinking it was a coincidence.
Today I went to start my car and it wouldn't rev up to about 200 max out and then drop. If I stopped cranking it with the key, it would die. Well I put starter fluid in the car and it still wouldn't go! I had to crank it for about 12 seconds to get it to turn over, normally when the engine catches(My foots full on the throttle when it won't start) it soars to 2.5k RPMs pretty quick. I started it later at school and it acted like it wanted to give me trouble, but a second past and it turned over and started running. I pull into the driveway today and I see my oil light flickering a little bit. First time I've ever seen it, a little worried! I turn the back on, starts up right away, to see if the oil light comes back on and nothing. But still worried.
I also got a coolant leak somewhere that I haven't been to diligent about finding. I don't see coolant anywhere on the driveway, my cars drinking coolant and I don't know where it's going. I checked it the other day and the reservoir tank was bone dry and so was the top of the radiator. I just added some UV dye to see where it's going, UV flashlight is on the way.
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I have a 1996 honda accord. I recently took it into a shop because it wouldn't start and was leaking oil. They replaced the battery cable and told me I needed an axle. I then have an oil leak, and my car will still not start. I take it back, ok, they said I need an oil pan. I get the oil pan and had to take the car back 2 more times because it was still leaking oil.
The one time they put on a gasket and the next an oil drain plug. Two days later I get home and my oil light is on. There is oil all over my driveway and it is leaking everywhere. Bigger than any previous leak. They pay to have my car towed to the shop and call me the next day to say the seal fell out and this is a common problem with the 96 accords. I need a timing belt kit. They told me there was no way to notice this oil leaking from this component. Is this an accurate depiction, or am I getting the run around?
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I have a 1996 Honda Accord 4 cyl. with 150 K miles. Had a coolant leak that the shop fixed. About 60 days later, same problem. I have to refill radiator every other day. What I noticed is a brown soft muck buildup at the radiator cap area. Also the car seems to run rough on and off. The underside of the oil cap is clean, no carmel color ( oil and coolant mixture) buildup.
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Intermittent start on 96 accord, will start 1in 4 times. no noise as if it was dead. replaced starter. worked for a week... did it again after a few days.. replaced starter again.. diagnostic on electrical ok....
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The check engine light stays on. The hood of my car was not securely locked when I purchased it, I'm sure it's due to an accident because it's damaged. Can the hood be a reason the check engine light stays on..it does not blink.
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So, i have a 1996 honda accord, i just had a new alternator put on yesterday. Well before then, when the old one was still in the car, my car would heat up while i was sitting still and it was drinking coolant and water like crazy!!! I was thinking that maybe i was having a head problem, but i didn't see any tell tale signs of coolant leaking over into the oil. So, today was the first day i drove to work with the new alternator on, i filled it up with coolant before i left for work, i drove 20 minutes to work and 20 minutes back home.
The temperature gauge never moved above the middle line, even when i was at a sit still with the car on. I checked the coolant level after the car cooled off, and it was still pretty full. Could a bad alternator effect the performance of your cooling system? I am by no means, complaining about this, I am very happy my car isn't heating up abnormally anymore, just curious was the alternator my problem?
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The ECT sensors on my 96 accord was broken. Hence the car overheated and smokes were coming out of the hood. Took the car to a honda dealer, here's what need to be replaced.
Radiator & cap
Lower & upper hose
Clamps
Thermostat
Coolant reservoir
ECT sensors
To do the repair they estimate 7 hrs of labor. I am not mechanically inclined so is this within the ballpark of how long it's going to take to replace the parts listed above. Does the 7 hr estimate seem reasonable?
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My 1996 Honda Accord V6 has a stuttering problem. It only happens (or is only noticeable) when driving at a constant speed. It is most noticeable when driving in the 45 - 55 mph range. It feels like the engine has millisecond breaks in power. And this does not happen all the time. Some days, it drives just fine with no problems. It idles fine. The problem is not noticeable, if there at all, during acceleration.
One other piece of information that might - or might not - be relevant is that the tachometer seems to be out of its mind. It bounces all over the place up and down. This also does not happen all the time, and it seems to me, though I'm not 100% certain, that the stuttering problem only happens when the tach is crazy..I have had no luck getting a mechanic to diagnose the problem. They claim the tach problem is totally unrelated.
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My '96 Honda Accord started smoking from under the hood as I pulled into my garage today. Upon closer inspection it seems like it was steam, not smoke, and it came from a crack in what I assume was some portion of my coolant line. The crack is in a solid, plastic tube that runs right along the fore-most part of the car, right along where the latch to unlock the hood. There is an escape valve that warns not to open it while the engine is hot because of the coolant that will be under pressure, hence the supposition that it is leaking heated coolant.
Obviously this needs to be fixed. So I have a few questions.What could have caused the crack?Is there a way to repair the crack without replacing the part?How serious if this / How far can I get away with driving?
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This car started doing this two weeks ago. At first it would only take 2 or 3 tries, and mostly on days cooler than 65 degrees. Then last week it took 9 times once and 15 times another. Sometimes it starts right up several times in a row. New spark plugs, wires, distributor, rotor, etc. Battery is new and connection is fine. It "clicks" or gives a quick "chug" but won't turn over when it does this. Initially, I didn't notice any noise at all when it first started doing this, but I may have just missed it. Also, it's done it recently on days in the 80's, so temp. might just be coincidence. Most likely to do it after sitting overnight or for more than six hours or so, then, if driven and started several times within the next few hours, usually starts right up, but not always. Very inconsistent. I've been told starter's going out, clutch switch, and fuel filter, but mechanic friend says description doesn't completely add up to any one possibility...
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My sons car is a 96 accord. For some reason, it's developed a new problem. After 15 minutes of driving it will stall, and it will not restart. It seems to be if it's left to sit long enough, it will restart(it does crank, just not turnover). That period of time it needs to sit seems more then 10-15 minutes, but we are not exactly certain. After several hours, it seems to start and run fine. We had it towed to the mechanic, they where not able to reproduce it. It's not overheating, the temp gauge stays below half. No check engine light is on.
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So i have a 1996 honda accord, i recently just got a new motor put in it. Its a used motor but a good one. I picked the car up from the shop yesterday, i drove it all day yesterday and today. It drives and sounds so much better than it did before. My husband goes to leave for work this evening and it wont start, it just makes a click noise when you turn the key, it wont even crank over. The battery is brand new and not used, the starter is brand new and not used, we just got both this year. It sounds like the clicking noise is coming from where the starter is, somewhere in that area. Could the starter have went bad on us? He checked all the cables and wires to see maybe if something is loose, everything seems to be in tact and tight.
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I have a 1996 Honda Accord (automatic) with just over 149,000 miles. In the 5 years since I've owned it it's required little more than some new spark plugs and tune up. I currently drive about 30 miles a week, but starting tomorrow I'll be driving much, much more to a new job. Living in Chicago with awful potholes, salt, and traffic, I'm concerned about what may happen in the near future...
I've been getting a grinding noise on the front driver side for years and have never fixed it and never noticed a change...I know it's the tie rod ends/ball joints. I've been warned that the wheel could come off, and as much as I believe them and don't want this to happen, nothing has ever happened. Is this something to do since there has been no change in symptoms or car performance in a couple years?
Other than that, any tips for keeping the car in good, working order? I do oil changes, but are they really necessary every 3000 miles? I have to make it last as long as possible and actually love the car anyway!
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I have a 1996 Honda accord ex with the vtech and 176000 miles. The problem Is everytime nomatter if the engine is how of cold there is a noise coming from under the hood that sounds like a compressor and when this happen and I try to step on the brakes, it'll work but it would vibrate. When I opened up the hood It sounded like it was coming from the right side of the engine (where all the belts are) what might this be?
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On my 1996 honda accord ex 2.2v when i press the gas pedal for a bout 2 seconds the engine doesn't do anything, then after those 2 seconds the car finally revs but it still feels like there is no power. I changed the spark plugs to brand new honda brand ones but this didn't work, someone told me that i could have been the fuel filter, and others say its the tranny which one can it be. The only other problem that i have is there is a stutter when i leave from a complete stop, but it only happens when i am in a complete stop, the "no power" issue happens when i try to pass on the free way or want to speed up.
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So i have a 1996 honda accord, it has 253k miles, i know, alot of miles. Well, i noticed it has been losing coolant pretty fast, i would fill it up with coolant and it would run out by the next day. I also notice that when i am sitting still, it runs hot, not sure if that goes along with it losing coolant rapidly or if that could be something else. I checked my oil dipstick the other day, it doesn't seem to have coolant mixing in with the oil, so i don't think it would be a head blown, i know i do need a gasket changed, but not an actual head for the engine. I haven't noticed any coolant in my driveway, then again I shouldn't have a leak, i just had the radiator, thermostat, water pump and the bell housing all changed a couple months ago. I also noticed that i am running low on oil more often as well. The other day, after i topped it off with oil, it was blowing out white smoke off and on and then it stopped, what could that be?
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The other night I passed a car overheating (Subaru) and checked my temp gauge and saw my needle was gradually climbing towards the half mark. This is not normal for my 96 Honda Accord. No lights coming on, so I blasted the heater and needle immediately returned to it's normal position. Filled the coolant, it was low, but the problem remains if the heater isn't turned on to at least 3. This doesn't seem extreme enough to be the thermostat. Could my fan be out?
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Been told my EGR valve is ok on my 96 accord . But I may have carbon build up in my suction side . I used deep creep for week to loosen up the build up. What else can I do?
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So I own a 96 Dodge Dakota and its had a few problems since I first bought it, but its all fixed except for one really puzzling problem. My head light will flash on and off while on low beams after about 30 minutes (if on high beams its almost instantaneous). It all started out with my dash lights going out then the head lights would go out when driving. I checked the switch and plug, both were fried, so easy enough fix. That fixed the dash lights, but the head lights still go out. I replaced the bulbs and yet the problem still exists. I then took it to O'Reilleys and the put a volt meter to my negative battery post and to and auxiliary wire just 6 inches from the post. When the lights were on they produced around 46 ohms of resistance and when they shut off they produced 26 ohms. Which isnt good, so I replaced the negative battery cable to try and fix the problem. This still did not solve it. The only other suggestion I have been given is to replace the high/low beam switch on the steering whee. Could that solve the problem?
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