Honda - Accord :: 1996 - Grinding Noise On The Front Driver Side
Jan 16, 2012
I have a 1996 Honda Accord (automatic) with just over 149,000 miles. In the 5 years since I've owned it it's required little more than some new spark plugs and tune up. I currently drive about 30 miles a week, but starting tomorrow I'll be driving much, much more to a new job. Living in Chicago with awful potholes, salt, and traffic, I'm concerned about what may happen in the near future...
I've been getting a grinding noise on the front driver side for years and have never fixed it and never noticed a change...I know it's the tie rod ends/ball joints. I've been warned that the wheel could come off, and as much as I believe them and don't want this to happen, nothing has ever happened. Is this something to do since there has been no change in symptoms or car performance in a couple years?
Other than that, any tips for keeping the car in good, working order? I do oil changes, but are they really necessary every 3000 miles? I have to make it last as long as possible and actually love the car anyway!
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My wife's car has a grinding type noise (like a key being burnished on a grinding wheel, but lower in pitch). We've had our regular mechanic check the braking system and he finds no irregularities and also says that he didn't see any loose items underneath the engine area. The sound wasn't one of the ones on your excellent 'noises' list, however. The noise comes from the driver side at the front of the car. The car is 2002 Honda Accord LX with 135,000 miles on it. The transmission was replaced under warranty at 70,000 miles.
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When I slam on my brakes there is a grinding noise coming from the front driver side wheel and the smell of rubber. Also when I do a u-turn the same thing happens. I own a 1999 Honda accord v6....
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I have a '98 Accord. It's got some issues and I am in the process of buying a new vehicle. But need to have a driveable car for work in the meantime. I have a torn boot on the front passenger side. Front brakes are also pretty worn down, not mention the Cat converter is shot and rusted. I'm getting a very loud, grinding noise when I turn to the left. Very loud noise. Some noise when turning to the right but not nearly as loud. My mechanic looked at the car a week ago and told me too many problems to fix the car, get a new one. which I am but it's taking some time. I'm just wondering if you think the car is likely safe enough to continue to drive until I get the new car. It's the loud grinding noise that freaks me out.
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I have a 1996 Ford Explorer (4WD model). Approximately 4 months ago I had a new set of tires put on it, and in the process of replacing the tires the shop noticed that I had a bad ball joint and one of my wheel bearings was going bad. They said the ball joints were known for completely failing, but the wheel bearings usually didn't, so they recommended that the ball joint be replaced first. That is what I had them do. I haven't had the money to get the wheel bearing replaced yet. This past week it got worse to the point where I can hear it now.
At low speeds I can hear a grinding/rattling-type noise from the front drivers side (that's the side that has the bad wheel bearing). At higher speeds the grinding/rattling-type noise fades away due to road noise, but I can still hear a humming-type of noise that is a bit loader than normal - this noise just started a couple of weeks ago so I'm suspecting that this might also be related to the bad bearing.
I won't have the money to get this fixed for another 2 weeks. In order for me to have the money in 2 weeks I will need to continue working at my job 2 days a week. It's approximately 2 hours round-trip from my home to my job. Obviously with the bearing sounding significantly worse I don't want to drive it any more than I have to, but the only way I can get the money to fix it is to keep driving it back and forth to work.
Here's my question. What risks am I running by continuing to drive this? Am I running the risk of the wheel falling off while I'm driving down the freeway at 70 mph? Am I likely to experience other damaged parts in that area of the vehicle?
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I leased a 2010 Honda Civic (non-hybrid) in March of 2010. I had to replace the front brake pads at 8K miles, 18.5K miles and now again at 27K miles. Each time, I get a screeching, grinding noise from the driver-side front wheel. At 8K, I went to a dealership (not the one where I got the car) who replaced them for free "as a courtesy" (apparently, brake pads aren't covered under the warranty). At 18.5K, I went to the dealership where I leased the car from; they said that it didn't look like the other dealer had actually performed the work (yet somehow, the screeching noise went away). They charged me $250 to replace the brake pads and buff the rotors. Now, at 27K, the screeching noise has returned. The dealership has warrantied their prior work and isn't charging me. They claim that there is nothing wrong with the braking system. When I asked them why the pads keep going after 9K miles, they said they don't know, and maybe its the way I brake. I do 80+% highway driving and while I do encounter stop and go traffic on a daily basis, I don't think this is normal.
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At this point I'm baffled. I've been hearing a grinding/rattling noise from the driver side wheel well for a couple months now. I was positive it was being caused by a bad hub, but the problem persists. Here is what I've done so far:
replaced brake pads and rotors -- twice; once before the hub went bad and once after. The bad hub warped the driver side rotor and afterwards passenger side would not stop squealing for some reason. replaced faulty wheel hub -- The bearing was totally shot, nearly 20* of play in it, should be totally rigid replaced faulty CV axle -- I suspect vibration from the bad hub destroyed the outboard CV joint, making popping/grinding noise while turning or going over bumps filled front differential -- it was a bit low on gear oil The grinding/rattling noise shows up when driving at freeway speed (around 55mph) and gets more pronounced as speed increases. The truck does not do this under acceleration but after speeding up, the rattling is the worst at light throttle (around 2k-2.5k RPM, in 4th gear/overdrive above 55mph).
I noticed that if I shift into neutral at freeway speed, the noise continues until the truck decelerates.
So at this point my thoughts are that it could be a bad differential, but I doubt it because the noise is almost imperceptible in the passenger seat. It could be a bad differential bearing on the drivers side (sounds like a worn out bearing to me). It could be any number of things in the transfer case or transmission.
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Have a 2003 Honda Accord with 178K miles on it. Excellent service and maintenance on the car. After this winter (midwest) I notice a creaking sound (like bedsprings) coming from the front end, passenger side. Car also seems rather bouncy on rough roads. Husband check the shocks and struts and says they are fine. What else could it be? Sway bar, ball joints, etc. and estimated cost - will take to a mechanic...
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So I drive a 98 Honda, 118k miles, and for last month I've got a really strange noise coming from my front passenger side wheel. It happens when I apply the brakes, usually at a slow speed, slowing down from something like 30mph to a stop. When slowing down, if I have just a bit of pressure on the brake, the noise seems to go along with the speed of the wheels. It also happens when I accelerate from a stop.
I can only describe it as a kind of creaking noise, almost like it is coming from the spring. Sometimes it sounds a little tinny, sometimes not so much. I don't think its actually in the suspension, because it doesn't make noise if I go over speed bumps or press down on the fender. Brake pads have a good amount of pad left on them.
My hunch is that it might have something to do with the fact that I hardly ever drive anymore, somewhere around 10-20 miles a week, back and forth to the subway essentially (fair amount of time driving down banked turns in a parking garage if that adds any info). My dad knows a decent amount about cars, but he isn't sure what is going on, though he thinks it nothing dangerous. Strange wheel noises always make me wary though.
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First off I have a 2009 F150 4wd 4.6L truck...we have noticed a grinding noise on the front driver side wheel...we have replaced the auto locking hub acuator and the hub assembly but the noise is still there....it has us puzzled now not sure what it could be. I have read many different threads on this issue an it seems that it might be something to do with the vacuum. The noise is only on the driver side and only in 2wd, when its in 4wd it doesn't make the noise at all. Also while in 2wd the noise seems to go away when we let off the gas.
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A year ago I heard occasional metal grinding noise coming from the front, sounding like front driver side. Sounded like CV joints that I heard before. The mechanic said it's transfer case/transmission problem, so I replaced the transmission but the noise came back a few days later. The mechanic said to drive it for a while and the noise may go away, if getting worse he can fix it since it has 2-year warranty.
Now a year later the noise becomes predicable and easily reproducible, I went back and asked them to check. They said it may be passenger side axle. I am feeling being manipulated.
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2011 F150 Limited 4wd 6.2 liter. I just bought the truck a few weeks ago with 26,000 miles. Late last week I began hearing a mild grind/rustling noise that appears to come from the driver's front. It's not terribly loud (loud enough to hear), but it's annoying. It happens when I slow down (on and off the brake and below 25-30 mph) as well as let off and begin to speed up. It doesn't last but a second after I let off the brake and speed up though. The kicker is it does not happen all of the time. I drove it home from work last night and it did not do it one time, but driving to work this morning it happened every time I did what I described above. I have taken it to our local tire/suspension shop and they claim they could not reproduce the sound which does not surprise me. They did a full inspection and found nothing.
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I have a 2wd 2011 F150 90K with grinding noise coming from the drivers side front tire. Even though it was happening when coasting I thought it might be pads but they are real good. Turning the hub with no tire on it I can hear a little grinding. So I suspect bearings. I want to remove the hub but can't find out how to pull that off.
Where I would expect to find a spindle nut there is an area where it looks like you put a puller in. Can't find any videos or other information on the "Internets". Maybe I'm the first to have bad bearings? Anyway, how to remove the hub?
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I have a 1996 Honda accord ex with the vtech and 176000 miles. The problem Is everytime nomatter if the engine is how of cold there is a noise coming from under the hood that sounds like a compressor and when this happen and I try to step on the brakes, it'll work but it would vibrate. When I opened up the hood It sounded like it was coming from the right side of the engine (where all the belts are) what might this be?
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I've been hearing a rhythmic, metallic ringy grinding noise coming from the driver side front end of the car that seems to be in time with wheel rotation. It happens between 5 and 40mph, worsens while the steering wheel is turned even the slightest to the right, goes away completely during left turns, reduces and becomes intermittent above 45mph, and between 0 and 5mph, as I turn the wheel to the right from any position, I hear squeaking. I recently had the front control arm, ball joints and struts replaced. It has 140k miles. What could it be?
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I have a 2001 Honda Accord (automatic) with 128k miles.
I've been having some strange grinding noises coming from the front while driving. It started off a couple of weeks ago as a very low (only some people could even hear it) humming kind of noise. It suddenly got worse one weekend and has now evolved into a louder, clearer grinding sound. Thought it was a wheel bearing, but the shop says it isn't. They think it might be the transmission. Here are some more details and a youtube video of the sound below:
-When accelerating, you can hear a low rhythmic humming, if anything.
-When coasting (not accelerating or braking), especially at speeds below 30 MPH, it makes a much clearer grinding noise that is still very rhythmic.
-When accelerating or braking, the sound goes away or is much lower and less noticeable.
-Appears to be speed dependent and not based on RPM.
-The noise is present when shifting into neutral while moving but not in park or reverse.
Here's a video of the sound: [URL] ..... It's filmed with my phone so it isn't great but you can probably hear it using headphones at a relatively loud volume. You can hear the low thumping/humming a little before 10 seconds in. You can hear the grinding noise from :11 seconds until the end (I'm decelerating), with it most audible after :20.
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Been told my EGR valve is ok on my 96 accord . But I may have carbon build up in my suction side . I used deep creep for week to loosen up the build up. What else can I do?
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So i have a 1996 honda accord, i recently just got a new motor put in it. Its a used motor but a good one. I picked the car up from the shop yesterday, i drove it all day yesterday and today. It drives and sounds so much better than it did before. My husband goes to leave for work this evening and it wont start, it just makes a click noise when you turn the key, it wont even crank over. The battery is brand new and not used, the starter is brand new and not used, we just got both this year. It sounds like the clicking noise is coming from where the starter is, somewhere in that area. Could the starter have went bad on us? He checked all the cables and wires to see maybe if something is loose, everything seems to be in tact and tight.
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I have a 2door 1992 Honda Accord EXR. In order to lock the car, you need to close the driver door and use the key to lock - annoying as hell but apparently the only way.
It recently got very cold and I can't seem to lock my driver's side door from the outside with my key. I tried squirting in door lock de-icer but to no avail. The key does not turn on the outside although once inside I can lock it from inside with the door lock switch.
Passenger side locks but it does not lock the driver's door.
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I have 2007 Honda accord. All three passenger side windows will not work. The driver side window do work however. The lock out button is not activated. When I press the switches to the passenger windows, it makes a click sound but windows will not open. This just started happening all at the same time without any warning.
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The A/C on my 2004 Accord has started blowing warm air out of the 2 driver side vents, but still blows cold air out of the 2 passenger side vents. It also occasionally blows condensation out of the 2 cold passenger vents. When this same thing happened last summer, the condenser and compressor were replaced within 3 weeks of each other. It is less than a year later and the same problem is occurring. Even more odd; every once in a while the 2 driver side vents will blow cold for just a few minutes, then revert to blowing warm air. The car does not have dual climate controls.
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