Honda - Accord :: 1993 - RPM Shoot Down And Power Loss
Aug 31, 2016
My latest car, 93 Honda Accord, has been my most unreliable car so far but I bought it earlier this year for $800 and it has <75,000 miles on it so I keep fixing it. Last night, after filling up about 30 miles before, I noticed the RPM's shoot down to nothing but then immediately go right back up again. I drove for a couple more miles on the freeway and then it happened again but the RPM did not return to its previous level. Erma (the car) lost power and gradually I steered it off the road as it slowed down. I waited awhile and kept trying to start it up. She sounded peppy (no clicking, squealing or straining) and the lights stayed on but it just wouldn't start. Eventually she started again, after about 15 minutes, and drove home with no problems. I live 45 minutes outside of town (where I work and go to graduate school - poor student card) so I am hoping for some guidance for things to try to make sure it doesnt strand me again, especially more permanently. Seems electrical? I recently, in the last 8 months, replaced the starter and the electric ignition assembly, as well as the brake master cylinder.
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I have a 1993 Honda Accord(4cyl) w/ 257,000 miles and I have a problem. When driving, it will intermittently act as if it is either running out of gas or has no spark and sputter and putt and have no power. This will go on for a bit and at times when the engine is at lower RPM's or load it will run a bit longer; however, in the end it will die and I'll find myself on the side of the road. It will not start again. I can crank it until the battery dies. The really confusing thing is that after it sits for anywhere from 2 hrs to a day, it will start up and run again for a week or two or a couple hundred miles. I have replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter, ignitor, distributor cap and rotor(not the whole distributor), coil and wires, checked and replaced all fuses.
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OK, the wife had this car lose power on the interstate (only 5 mph) -- said she heard a lot of noise (no good description) and smelled rubber burning. Towed to Honda dealer -- found nothing wrong even after putting 44 miles on it to try to get it hot. My co-worker said she had a similar problem with a Civic --they found nothing on the computer -- happened again, she limped in a 5 mph and they could hear it was the alternator. Alternatively, web research has shown a LOT of problems with the 2004 V6 transmission.
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My 2005 Honda Accord randomly loses all power during city driving (25 MPH or less and sometimes while approaching a stop). The dashboard, radio, etc. go black, engine stops, and power steering and locks go out. The first couple times, it restarted immediately and drove fine. The past couple times, it did not restart right away.
After waiting a bit and taking the key out of the ignition, we were able to turn on the interior lights, A/C, and radio, and then the car started fine. The car was involved in a frontal collision a few weeks prior to all of this starting. The driver's headlight was damaged, and at least one fuse had to be replaced. We have taken it to the dealer several times. They ran diagnostic tests and drove it around, trying to duplicate the problem -- without success.
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2005 Honda Accord. I have been experiencing a loss of electricity to my dashboard - the radio cuts out, tach and speedometer needles drop, sometimes warning lights come on. I don't think I have experience a loss of power with this but when it happens, it lasts less than a second.
I can go days of driving without issue. Then, in one drive it may happen four or five times. I hate the idea of taking it into the dealer on an intermittent electrical issue. That could be a real bank drain.
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97 Accord Lx - 215k miles - 4 cyl. - regular maintenance. It's been my daily driver for over 5 years and been running perfectly.
Yesterday I drove the 35 miles from work back to my town but before going home stopped to visit someone for about an hour. When I came out to leave I noticed a larger than normal amount of fluid in the drive. I just thought it was condensation from the AC and that it was more because it was extremely hot yesterday (100+).
When I got within 2 miles of the house the 1st thing was that the AC was not blowing as cold. I turned it off. Then the engine seemed to "pulse" with loss of power, and the temperature gauge was maxed out. As I pulled into the driveway the engine light and oil pressure light came on.
After it cooled down I checked and the coolant was a little low, so I topped it off. The oil was really low and I added three quarts to bring it to full.
This morning I started it up and let it idle while I finished getting ready (5-10 minutes) and the temp gauge was about 1/3rd of the way up (where it normally is). It sounded, felt, and drove as normal but after a mile or so the gauge was climbing extremely fast so I turned around and took it back home.
What it might be? Water pump?
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I have a 1998 Accord, 4-cylinder VTEC standard transmission, 226,000 miles. Last fall I first experienced a problem with the car where within 5-10 minutes of starting the engine and driving, the engine seems to lose power/fuel and RPMs act as if they'll drop low enough for the engine to stall. If I take my foot off the accelerator, and reapply, the engine seems to gain power again.
Also, if I open the accelerator to full while the problem is occurring, it can occasionally "push through" and gain power again. Similar things will happen while stopped. In neutral, RPMs fall low and suddenly jump back up and then settle into normal idle. The problem never persists longer than 10 minutes within starting the car.
I took my car into a local shop that came recommended by a friend. They investigated a "check engine" light that didn't explain the problem and were never able to recreate the condition themselves. They replaced a few parts but lost the work order so I don't even know what they changed, but the problem seemed to have solved itself for a while. Recently it started up again and I would love to sort it out.
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MY 1993 Honda Accord has been having trouble starting a few times and now the transmission is slipping. It has close to 200 Thousand miles.
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Honda Accord 93SE, ECU fuse keeps blowing, some one told me to check the relays. Which relays lay in this circuit, I seen another post that found he had the O2 sensor cable touching the manifold.
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93 honda accord cranks but wont start... I replaced the coil,cap and rotor and i still have spark...
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My 93 Honda Accord died yesterday after filling up the tank. I was driving about 30 miles an hour, and only made it 4 blocks from the gas station. When I filled up, I didn't "top it off", but I did notice that it needed a lot of gas- about 13 gallons. I don't remember if I fully tightened the cap or not. I was in drive when it died, even though I had my foot on the gas pedal. When it died, the battery and oil light went on; it wouldn't restart, and smelled pretty foul. The engine wasn't over heating- just no power.
Over the past few weeks when the car is in park, the RPM will surge, but it doesn't happen when it is in gear. Other than that and the car stalling on the road, there haven't been any problems with it. I had it towed to a local repair shop that I trust. They looked at the gas to see if it was contaminated, but it came out clean. They said the car started right up, and they didn't find anything wrong with it. I am happy to have a working car, but scared to have it die again in rush hour on my way to work. What happened, or what I could do in the future?
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So the problem began with the car not wanting to start up. It would usually get going by the second try but after about a week, my '93 Honda Accord would kind of sputter for a second then die except now the check engine light would come on and I would hear this clicking noise from behind the dash. At this point I would turn the car off, remove the key and try again with the result being either: the engine turns over, the same clicking noise happens, or I end up grinding the starter for 10/15 sec.
More recently the problem has extended to while the car is moving. In the past week the engine will suddenly cut out. I could be backing out of my driveway, taking a turn at 5 mph or driving on the highway, and it will suddenly cut out. Sometimes the engine death is preceded by a drop in rpm, and sometime if i can push in the clutch fast enough the car doesn't die. Beyond that I have no clue.
I recently replaced the master relay and the ignition switch. I also had a new timing belt put in by a mechanic only 5k miles ago. At that time he said that it should last me another 50k miles no problem. It's a '93 Honda Accord LX, 4-cylinder manual transmission.
I can't really afford another mechanic visit right now. One friend thought it might be the alternator, and another scoffed at the notion. I know just enough to follow directions and fix what needs to be fixed, but I'm no good at diagnosing car problems.
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When I go to start my car it has a solid red light around park, as it should, but it has a flashing green light around drive also. When this happens my car will not start. I usually try it a few times, wait and try and try again until it finally starts up. Once it starts the drives light is still blinking so I turn the car off and back on, then it is good to go. This does not happen every time, it seem sporadic. The engine, battery and oil light stay on, but I think it may only be because the car is starting up, usually the lights come on when starting then go off once the car is ready. Btw it is a 1993 Honda Accord.
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My 1993 Honda accord coupe is kicking In and out of overdrive from 55 mph and up so what's the problem?
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1993 accord my d4 light on the dash is flashing and it wont shift out of park....
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I just had the front seals replaced in my 93 accord standard shift wagon. After about 4 days the clutch started feeling "soft" and now it's almost down to the floor in order to engage it. I wonder if this has anything to do with the seal replacement?
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So, I just found out that the noise my car has been making is related to the power steering. The mechanic said I need to replace the pump, two belts and the high pressure line. The car is a 1993 Honda Accord LX. I can't afford to have the mechanic fix it, so I'm going to have to do it myself. My questions are:1) how long should it take me? I'm not experienced at all. I was thinking of just doing the high pressure line as a 'warm up' to start. Is half a day wishful thinking? Any tips?
2) The mechanic said the hose is leaking all over the belts. He said it was "squirting and pouring out". I tried to duplicate the squirting by turning the wheel all the way and revving the engine. What I saw was a very small leak at the joint. So small it wasn't falling, but I'm sure it would if I waited long enough. The belts appeared dry to me, but I'm not really sure what they are supposed to look like. The mechanic said that they are getting soaked in fluid and that I might throw a belt. Anyway, so my question is how can I tell if the belts are "soaked in" steering fluid.
3) I've been told that if the belts are getting steering fluid on them they might be responsible for the loud squealing noise when turning. If I clean the belts with degreaser, and the noise stops, does this mean that replacing the leaking hose would be sufficient?
I'm making a long road trip in about a week (ca to wa). I'd prefer to deal with the replacement when I get to wa, but I also don't want to make things worse.
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My car started making a loud, high pitched "whooping" and "whining" noise when making corners. The pitch is medium to high and variable. It kind of sounds like wet rubber on glass (like a squeegee). The first time it happened I thought it was a police siren, like when they sound the siren in short bursts "whoop! whoop!". But now the sound is more like a prolonged whine/groan. The sound might be coming from the steering column, but I can't be sure. Its definitely on the driver's side and in the front.
The sound is not related to braking. It doesn't happen on every turn. It can happen when starting from a stop or when already in motion. It happens on both flat ground and hills. At first it seemed to happen on cold days and only in the morning. I think this might have been a coincidence since now it happens throughout the day, every day.
My car is a 1993 honda accord with approximately 315,000 miles.
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My 93 honda accord cranks but wont start it has fuel and fire from the coil but not to the plugs, had new distbuter 1 year ago could my computer be bad...
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I have a 10th anniversary Honda Accord. When you apply the emergency brake, the passenger rear wheel brake does not engage. This car appears to have 2 master cylinders, but I could not find any documentation to confirm. Is this correct? The reservoir on the passenger side is way above the max mark. I'm thinking this is somehow related to the e-brake issue.
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I had my car battery replaced about three months ago and when it was replaced they put those little anti-corrosion felt pads at the base of the terminals as well as anti-corrosion grease. My positive terminal would never maintain a secure connection so I removed the felt pad and replaced the terminal connection. Now my only problem is whenever it is very cold outside and I try to start the car, I lose power instantly as soon as the starter is about to engage. I always have to twist the positive terminal back and forth a couple times, listening to the crunching sound of the anti-corrosion grease, and power is restored.
Is there any brand of grease I can use that won't cause this issue? Yes, I have removed the terminal, cleaned out the old grease and replaced with another pouch of the cheap stuff at the autozone counter and that didn't work. There is no corrosion buildup on the terminals but I've consistently had the problem for the past few months.
I know Honda had a recall on ignition switched a while ago, and they replaced mine, but I'm not sure if there is any direct connection since my daily fix involves me manipulating the battery terminal to get the car started. 2003 Accord EX ...
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