Honda - Accord :: 1993 - ECU Fuse Keeps Blowing
Jan 31, 2013
Honda Accord 93SE, ECU fuse keeps blowing, some one told me to check the relays. Which relays lay in this circuit, I seen another post that found he had the O2 sensor cable touching the manifold.
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Ok so I just bought this car, 1993 pontiac grand am se, from a neighbor. When I test drove it, the back seat was all unscrewed so I thought no biggie and it drove really nice for being a 1993. Ended up buying the car. I get the car home, husband puts seats back together and we go to leave for town and the fuel pump fuse blew. Put a new one in, go to start the car, fuse blows again! Tow the car home. Husband checks the wires to make sure there is no faulty wires. Has to reground the ground wire. Car then starts. Go to drive down my driveway and the dang fuse blew again! Mind you there is a new fuel pump in the car so we know this isn't what is wrong with it.
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MY 1993 Honda Accord has been having trouble starting a few times and now the transmission is slipping. It has close to 200 Thousand miles.
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93 honda accord cranks but wont start... I replaced the coil,cap and rotor and i still have spark...
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My 93 Honda Accord died yesterday after filling up the tank. I was driving about 30 miles an hour, and only made it 4 blocks from the gas station. When I filled up, I didn't "top it off", but I did notice that it needed a lot of gas- about 13 gallons. I don't remember if I fully tightened the cap or not. I was in drive when it died, even though I had my foot on the gas pedal. When it died, the battery and oil light went on; it wouldn't restart, and smelled pretty foul. The engine wasn't over heating- just no power.
Over the past few weeks when the car is in park, the RPM will surge, but it doesn't happen when it is in gear. Other than that and the car stalling on the road, there haven't been any problems with it. I had it towed to a local repair shop that I trust. They looked at the gas to see if it was contaminated, but it came out clean. They said the car started right up, and they didn't find anything wrong with it. I am happy to have a working car, but scared to have it die again in rush hour on my way to work. What happened, or what I could do in the future?
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My latest car, 93 Honda Accord, has been my most unreliable car so far but I bought it earlier this year for $800 and it has <75,000 miles on it so I keep fixing it. Last night, after filling up about 30 miles before, I noticed the RPM's shoot down to nothing but then immediately go right back up again. I drove for a couple more miles on the freeway and then it happened again but the RPM did not return to its previous level. Erma (the car) lost power and gradually I steered it off the road as it slowed down. I waited awhile and kept trying to start it up. She sounded peppy (no clicking, squealing or straining) and the lights stayed on but it just wouldn't start. Eventually she started again, after about 15 minutes, and drove home with no problems. I live 45 minutes outside of town (where I work and go to graduate school - poor student card) so I am hoping for some guidance for things to try to make sure it doesnt strand me again, especially more permanently. Seems electrical? I recently, in the last 8 months, replaced the starter and the electric ignition assembly, as well as the brake master cylinder.
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So the problem began with the car not wanting to start up. It would usually get going by the second try but after about a week, my '93 Honda Accord would kind of sputter for a second then die except now the check engine light would come on and I would hear this clicking noise from behind the dash. At this point I would turn the car off, remove the key and try again with the result being either: the engine turns over, the same clicking noise happens, or I end up grinding the starter for 10/15 sec.
More recently the problem has extended to while the car is moving. In the past week the engine will suddenly cut out. I could be backing out of my driveway, taking a turn at 5 mph or driving on the highway, and it will suddenly cut out. Sometimes the engine death is preceded by a drop in rpm, and sometime if i can push in the clutch fast enough the car doesn't die. Beyond that I have no clue.
I recently replaced the master relay and the ignition switch. I also had a new timing belt put in by a mechanic only 5k miles ago. At that time he said that it should last me another 50k miles no problem. It's a '93 Honda Accord LX, 4-cylinder manual transmission.
I can't really afford another mechanic visit right now. One friend thought it might be the alternator, and another scoffed at the notion. I know just enough to follow directions and fix what needs to be fixed, but I'm no good at diagnosing car problems.
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I have a 1993 Honda Accord(4cyl) w/ 257,000 miles and I have a problem. When driving, it will intermittently act as if it is either running out of gas or has no spark and sputter and putt and have no power. This will go on for a bit and at times when the engine is at lower RPM's or load it will run a bit longer; however, in the end it will die and I'll find myself on the side of the road. It will not start again. I can crank it until the battery dies. The really confusing thing is that after it sits for anywhere from 2 hrs to a day, it will start up and run again for a week or two or a couple hundred miles. I have replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter, ignitor, distributor cap and rotor(not the whole distributor), coil and wires, checked and replaced all fuses.
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When I go to start my car it has a solid red light around park, as it should, but it has a flashing green light around drive also. When this happens my car will not start. I usually try it a few times, wait and try and try again until it finally starts up. Once it starts the drives light is still blinking so I turn the car off and back on, then it is good to go. This does not happen every time, it seem sporadic. The engine, battery and oil light stay on, but I think it may only be because the car is starting up, usually the lights come on when starting then go off once the car is ready. Btw it is a 1993 Honda Accord.
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My 1993 Honda accord coupe is kicking In and out of overdrive from 55 mph and up so what's the problem?
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1993 accord my d4 light on the dash is flashing and it wont shift out of park....
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I just had the front seals replaced in my 93 accord standard shift wagon. After about 4 days the clutch started feeling "soft" and now it's almost down to the floor in order to engage it. I wonder if this has anything to do with the seal replacement?
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The tail lights on my car keep blowing the fuse, I can't find a short or anything that suggests a problem in the wiring, it's a 7.5A fuse, it blew a 10A but seems to be working on a 15A. How much trouble is that 15A gonna bring me!!
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So, I just found out that the noise my car has been making is related to the power steering. The mechanic said I need to replace the pump, two belts and the high pressure line. The car is a 1993 Honda Accord LX. I can't afford to have the mechanic fix it, so I'm going to have to do it myself. My questions are:1) how long should it take me? I'm not experienced at all. I was thinking of just doing the high pressure line as a 'warm up' to start. Is half a day wishful thinking? Any tips?
2) The mechanic said the hose is leaking all over the belts. He said it was "squirting and pouring out". I tried to duplicate the squirting by turning the wheel all the way and revving the engine. What I saw was a very small leak at the joint. So small it wasn't falling, but I'm sure it would if I waited long enough. The belts appeared dry to me, but I'm not really sure what they are supposed to look like. The mechanic said that they are getting soaked in fluid and that I might throw a belt. Anyway, so my question is how can I tell if the belts are "soaked in" steering fluid.
3) I've been told that if the belts are getting steering fluid on them they might be responsible for the loud squealing noise when turning. If I clean the belts with degreaser, and the noise stops, does this mean that replacing the leaking hose would be sufficient?
I'm making a long road trip in about a week (ca to wa). I'd prefer to deal with the replacement when I get to wa, but I also don't want to make things worse.
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My car started making a loud, high pitched "whooping" and "whining" noise when making corners. The pitch is medium to high and variable. It kind of sounds like wet rubber on glass (like a squeegee). The first time it happened I thought it was a police siren, like when they sound the siren in short bursts "whoop! whoop!". But now the sound is more like a prolonged whine/groan. The sound might be coming from the steering column, but I can't be sure. Its definitely on the driver's side and in the front.
The sound is not related to braking. It doesn't happen on every turn. It can happen when starting from a stop or when already in motion. It happens on both flat ground and hills. At first it seemed to happen on cold days and only in the morning. I think this might have been a coincidence since now it happens throughout the day, every day.
My car is a 1993 honda accord with approximately 315,000 miles.
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My 93 honda accord cranks but wont start it has fuel and fire from the coil but not to the plugs, had new distbuter 1 year ago could my computer be bad...
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I have a 10th anniversary Honda Accord. When you apply the emergency brake, the passenger rear wheel brake does not engage. This car appears to have 2 master cylinders, but I could not find any documentation to confirm. Is this correct? The reservoir on the passenger side is way above the max mark. I'm thinking this is somehow related to the e-brake issue.
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My son's Honda Civic keeps periodically blowing the #4 fuse under the dash (alternator). He replaced the VSS and had the alternator tested but it still happens.
At one point the fuse would blow as soon as you turned the key to ignition but I traced that down to a shorted wiper motor which I replaced and that solved the immediate fuse blowing. BTW according to all documentation I have, the wiper motor is not supposed to be on fuse #4 so perhaps the under dash fuse box has issues.
Looking for a schematic for the under dash fuse box? I have the 01-02 service manual which has wiring diagrams that reference specific fuses but I can't found one for the box itself. Are there relays in that box or is it just wiring from fuse slots to the many connectors?
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Two years ago, I purchased a 1998 Honda Accord LX from a local dealer. I've had very few issues with it. However, shortly after I moved from Michigan to Florida, I began to notice a strange issue with my car. While the car is running and the engine is idling, I lose AC inside the car and the engine heat slowly begins to build.
The AC isn't shutting off, but instead blowing out warm air. The engine heat builds at a concerning enough rate, moving from a normal level to almost maxing out the gauge in the span of 20-30 minutes. This issue seems to auto-correct itself while the car is in motion, with the AC putting out nice, cool air and the engine heat staying at a normal level.
The car currently has about 269,000 Miles on it. I have been told the problem is likely a faulty thermostat, but I'd like a second opinion. What might be wrong with my car?
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I've got an 04' accord and within the last couple weeks it started blowing warmer air but now it's hot. I've called around for a few prices to see about getting the freon replaced and everyone I've called is concerned there's a leak. We'll I've had the for 10 years doesn't the freon just run out eventually and you need to fill it up again? Am I getting scammed if I take it some place and they do a diagnostic that might be a hundred bucks just to look at it?
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Nothing will blow out from vents, with heat or AC. I checked the fuse under the hood and that had continuity, I checked the 7.5 fuse under the dash and that was fine. I also replaced the blower motor resistor and the blower motor with brand new ones. Also used a test light to make sure power was getting to the resistor and motor and that is all good.
2004 Honda Accord EX Sedan .....
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