My 93 honda accord cranks but wont start it has fuel and fire from the coil but not to the plugs, had new distbuter 1 year ago could my computer be bad...
View 9 Replies93 honda accord cranks but wont start... I replaced the coil,cap and rotor and i still have spark...
View 1 RepliesMy 95 Honda accord 4 cy. vtech, will turn over but not will start, you can try unlimited times and it just cranks, but no fire or start.... UNLESS I wait about 30 seconds first. In this time what happens is, for 15 seconds the usual dash lights are on, including check engine light, at 16 seconds the D4 green transmission light starts to flash rapidly. At 30 seconds the main relay can be heard to finally click in, and the fuel pump whirs and primes the fuel system for 1.5 seconds and immediately the check engine light turns off, the D4 light turns off, and the fuel pump also stops whirring. AT this point, at any time from here on out, (until you turn the car off again) you can turn the key the rest of the way to start, and the engine cranks over and now immediately starts right up!
Sometimes all the above happens just as described, but the D4 transmission position light does not start to flash. Everything else happens the same way and timing and after 30 seconds the car will start. NOTES: a. The obd trouble codes do not flash any codes when the jumper is put in place to read the codes. b. I have removed and checked the main relay, looked ok, and just in case I re-soldered all connections on the main relay board. c.the car drives and shifts fine. d. The time frames are exactly the same every time. Electronically perfectly the same, like the computer finally decides, OK go ahead and work now. Or like the car is attempting by some programmed response to say that something is wrong and needs attention.
My 2004 honda accord will not start, there is no power to the spark plugs or to the coils.
View 3 RepliesCranks, but won't start. I spark tested 2 of the 6 cylinders and saw only 2 sparks and no more each time I attempted cranking. They were strong, good looking sparks. I spark tested with an Autocraft Ignition Tester, Part No. AC657, from Advance Auto.
View 5 RepliesMy '93 Honda Accord has developed a problem with starting and holding its idle. After the car has sat overnight or for several hours, it may be hard to start. (Sometimes it starts right away!)
It can take several minutes to start idling well or it may be fine in seconds. It's all very inconsistent.
So the problem began with the car not wanting to start up. It would usually get going by the second try but after about a week, my '93 Honda Accord would kind of sputter for a second then die except now the check engine light would come on and I would hear this clicking noise from behind the dash. At this point I would turn the car off, remove the key and try again with the result being either: the engine turns over, the same clicking noise happens, or I end up grinding the starter for 10/15 sec.
More recently the problem has extended to while the car is moving. In the past week the engine will suddenly cut out. I could be backing out of my driveway, taking a turn at 5 mph or driving on the highway, and it will suddenly cut out. Sometimes the engine death is preceded by a drop in rpm, and sometime if i can push in the clutch fast enough the car doesn't die. Beyond that I have no clue.
I recently replaced the master relay and the ignition switch. I also had a new timing belt put in by a mechanic only 5k miles ago. At that time he said that it should last me another 50k miles no problem. It's a '93 Honda Accord LX, 4-cylinder manual transmission.
I can't really afford another mechanic visit right now. One friend thought it might be the alternator, and another scoffed at the notion. I know just enough to follow directions and fix what needs to be fixed, but I'm no good at diagnosing car problems.
When I go to start my car it has a solid red light around park, as it should, but it has a flashing green light around drive also. When this happens my car will not start. I usually try it a few times, wait and try and try again until it finally starts up. Once it starts the drives light is still blinking so I turn the car off and back on, then it is good to go. This does not happen every time, it seem sporadic. The engine, battery and oil light stay on, but I think it may only be because the car is starting up, usually the lights come on when starting then go off once the car is ready. Btw it is a 1993 Honda Accord.
View 1 Replies1999 Accord Coupe. Stuck in park, starter motor turns engine over fine but ignition does not fire. Problem was intermittent twice last week.
View 10 Replies2000 Honda Accord. I've been told I have a bad ignition coil. Do I need to replace all six or can I just replace the one?
View 19 RepliesIi have a '98 sc2 and its been sitting in my yard for a while. It started out one day when i got in it, turned the key and then it turned over but wasn't starting. We hooked it to a computer and it showed no bad signal so we bought a new computer for my car and that didn't work either. We changed the coil packs and the crank sensor and still nothing.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2001 Accord coupe with 148K on it. This car is very well maintained as we perform all services and oil changes on time. During the past 2 months, the car has not wanted to start 5 times. When this started happening the car would crank quickly, strong battery, and would fire after the fourth or fifth attempt. The last 2 times the car would not start. I came back later and it cranked right up.
Yesterday I drove the car in the early morning and parked it all day. When I came back around 4 it would not start. I cranked it repeatedly about 6 - 8 times, not joy... So I came back this morning and it cranked right up. The car drives very smoothly with good power and no missing ignition. We had this in the shop last week and they found nothing wrong but cleaned the throttle body and replaced the plugs.
We can't use this car now for anything other than local trips to the store until the issue is resolved. My wife thinks it has something to do with sitting in the warm sun, although we live in Maine and it doesn't get hot like down south. Looks like that is the only trend we can see at present.
04 intrepid cranks but won't start no spark at the plugs 2.7v6 could it be the pcm...
View 2 RepliesI don't drive the truck much anymore but over time my MPG has gone to total crap...about 10mpg around town...and that's baby-ing it.
Now it suddenly takes many cranks to finally start on a first start. (cold or warm days)....
I have a stock 1994 Celica GT with the 5sfe M/T .... I do have a headgasket leaking, and I am having another motor rebuilt and put in next month. I just need to nurse this one along for now. Right now it cranks but will not start. does not even fire up at all.
Code 12 - so I got another dizzy from the salvage yard, the pickup coils ohm out like they should as does the ignition coil. and I bought a brand new condenser for it as the old one tested bad. and when I first got the dizzy i put it in and it fired right up and ran for a couple days, then began doing it again. I went back to the salvage yard and grabbed another one that tested good, and when I put it in it fired up the first time but then shut off and has not started since.
But is it possible for the distributor to still be the problem even though the coils test ok? the shaft doesn't have any play in it, and the air gaps are within spec. I can barely get a .2mm between them. I also grabbed a couple of igniters while I was there. When I get it to run it may die when its cold and give me a code 14.
So from there I'm down to testing the distributor circuit, and the starter signal circuit, and the ECU. What is the best way to go about testing this to be Certain of what I need to go buy instead of just replacing stuff.
I have been checking on the automotive forums for Suburban no start problems and have tried some of the solutions, but my vehicle still doesn't start. Here is where I'm at: I have spark, fuel pressure at the throttle body, the fuel pump in the tank is working, new cap, rotor, coil, module, fuel filter, and ECM.
I just ran the truck 2 days ago for 10 minutes to flush the radiator, turned it off to install a new t/stat, then it wouldn't start again. I have tried starting fluid, gasoline, it cranks but no fire, not even a sputter. The pump has been replaced probably 9 years ago. The only other thing not replaced is the pickup coil in the distributor, although the distributor was rebuilt about 10 to 12 years ago. This vehicle just sits until needed, can't afford to drive it daily. The truck is a 1987 Suburban 1/2 ton 350K engine, automatic, 4wd.
I have a 2001 mustang convertible in good cond. A 6cly that I have had very little trouble with over the past year. I put in a new battery then, just after I bought it from a dealer. The dealer had gone over it with fluids etc. and I had a friend look it over when I bought it. He said it was very clean and a good buy. So, last week I started having trouble starting it in the morning. It would crank but would not fire. I turned the key off, and then tried again, Same result, cranks but doesn't start. I turned it off again and being worried about draining the battery, I turned everything off, radio, heat and fan, lights. Then I tried to start it again and, it started. I'm thinking I need new plugs, but I ignored the problem and went to work.
A couple days later I was leaving the grocery store, turned the key and same thing again, cranks but doesn't fire. I knew what to do. Turned off everything and tried it again, it started. Ok, so now some repair, possible plugs, is on my priority list. I need to get this fixed before the bad winter weather comes. Yesterday, after a long day at work, I was ready to go home and I it happened again. This time it's terminal. No matter what I did I couldn't get it to fire. This morning it's sitting in the office parking lot and I need to deal with this today.
Could be plugs, could be the fuel pump. Before I call the dealer and pay 4x what I should for this, what do you think it could be? 3.8 6cly. The car is sitting on a slight incline, in the parking lot. Gravity pulls fuel from the engine to the gas tank, if a fuel pump is going bad this could be why I can't get it to start. I'm going to roll it to a level area and hit it with starting fluid to determine if the pump is bad. I'll also pull a couple plugs.
MY 1993 Honda Accord has been having trouble starting a few times and now the transmission is slipping. It has close to 200 Thousand miles.
View 2 RepliesHonda Accord 93SE, ECU fuse keeps blowing, some one told me to check the relays. Which relays lay in this circuit, I seen another post that found he had the O2 sensor cable touching the manifold.
View 1 RepliesMy 93 Honda Accord died yesterday after filling up the tank. I was driving about 30 miles an hour, and only made it 4 blocks from the gas station. When I filled up, I didn't "top it off", but I did notice that it needed a lot of gas- about 13 gallons. I don't remember if I fully tightened the cap or not. I was in drive when it died, even though I had my foot on the gas pedal. When it died, the battery and oil light went on; it wouldn't restart, and smelled pretty foul. The engine wasn't over heating- just no power.
Over the past few weeks when the car is in park, the RPM will surge, but it doesn't happen when it is in gear. Other than that and the car stalling on the road, there haven't been any problems with it. I had it towed to a local repair shop that I trust. They looked at the gas to see if it was contaminated, but it came out clean. They said the car started right up, and they didn't find anything wrong with it. I am happy to have a working car, but scared to have it die again in rush hour on my way to work. What happened, or what I could do in the future?
I have a 1992 accord Lx +200k. The problem I have is the car wont start. It will crank but wont turn over. I thought it might have been the fuel pump relay so I replaced it. It worked for awhile but now the problem has persist.
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