Honda - Accord :: 1992 - Need To Jump Start Every Time Fill Up The Gas Tank
Feb 28, 2013
This is for my previous car that I used to own in 2005. It was a 1992 Honda Accord and the issue it had was anytime I went to the gas station to fill up the gas, the car refused to start and I would need to jump start the vehicle every time. I used to take the DC metro to work everyday, so I did not have to use the car as much, but it was a hassle. This happened all through the year and I was just used to carrying a Jump Starter Box with me in the car. There were no other issues with the car. I do not recall needing a jump start any other time. This one time, I forgot to keep my car in the garage and it was out in the snow all weekend. Come Monday morning, I started the car without any issues. I went to a friends place about 10 miles away and then tried to fill gas at a gas station near his place and it died at the gas station. I do not have the car with me now, having totaled it in an accident couple of years ago. But I was always amazed at this and would like to know what would cause something like this.
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It was only started once during that time. when I hooked up the jumper cables from a running car to mine, I try and start the car and all I hear is a continuous clicking sound. is that an alternator, starter or spark plug problem?
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While jumping dead battery , there was horrible noise and smoke -- mechanic replaced alternator and the cooked battery. The 2000 Accord not used much, but after replacements , it was started and run regularly in driveway. But when driven light indicated battery not charging. Alternator replaced again. Car started fine several times, then was dead one morning after having been driven day before. Jumped again. No problem starting and running car for about a month. Drove car uneventfully about 20 miles. Next morning battery was dead again.
This time when car was jumped, it started fine, but after two minutes, same horrible noise and smoke as before. I do not wish to jump car again, but it seems unlikely that there would be two bad alternators in a row. Also it is curious that problem occurs after car has been driven but not when is run while sitting in driveway. What are likely causes for energy drain? Is a "specialist" on electrical circuitry called for? I have used this mechanic before with good results and AAA trusts him.
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My daughter owns a 1992 Honda Accord wagon, she cannot get it to start on colder days. Sometimes she goes out and runs a hair dryer over the engine, it works, but it is getting worse. Her husband says that is ridiculous to do.
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My embattled 92 civic hatchback has developed an issue that makes it take forever to start. I put the key in the ignition, turn it to the start position, and then I have to wait for up to 10 to 15 minutes to hear the click-hum of the fuel pump priming (which turns off the check engine light) before I can start it. I've noticed that it's much worse on wet days, but generally starts right up if it's only been off for a few moments. I used to just give the Civic ample warning before I need to go somewhere by running out, turning the key to start, and then letting it sit there, but this is beginning to wear down the battery. I've replaced the main relay to no avail, and once the car is running it does just fine, which makes me think that the fuel pump is fine.
Full disclosure: this thing also has a bad oil problem. A diesel mechanic changed the head gasket several months ago (owing to yet another starting problem, and I'm starting to think it was the same starting problem, and that I blew the head gasket from trying to push-start the thing), and in our efforts, we seem to have messed up the valve cover gasket. There is oil in the plug wells, and there's some power loss as the engine is trying to cough up the oil. I haven't replaced it yet because it doesn't seem to be a critical issue as long as I keep feeding it more oil.
I've done some searching on the web, and the general consensus of the internet (and the internet HAS to be right, right?) is a bad ECU. When I look this up in my manual, getting to the ECU is just a matter of pulling the carpet in the passenger-side floorboard out of the way. Okay, great. Only problem: I can't find a place where I can buy a good ECU. I could probably find one at a junkyard, but there's no guarantee there. If I do manage to find one, I want to be able to return it if replacing it doesn't fix anything.
Fuel pump - checked before we changed the head gasket, came back okay
Starter - I changed it by myself before we changed the head gasket
Ignition Switch - The key is optional, but everything else electronic in the car responds properly when the switch is in the proper position.
Distributor/Rotor cap - Changed when we changed the head gasket
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I just had the engine in my 2001 Toyota Celica replaced with a rebuild at 145,000 miles (the original engine was burning oil). It runs fine but now every time I fill the tank with gas and start the car it runs for about 15 seconds then dies. This goes on about four times then it runs fine. After the initial dying eposoide the car runs fine until i fill-up again (i usually fill-up when i have avout 1/4 tank left). Before the engine replacement I had no problem like this. The mechanic thought the problem was the fuel pump and replace it and the filter and inspected the tank for debris. I am still having the problem
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My '93 Honda Accord has developed a problem with starting and holding its idle. After the car has sat overnight or for several hours, it may be hard to start. (Sometimes it starts right away!)
It can take several minutes to start idling well or it may be fine in seconds. It's all very inconsistent.
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Intermittent start on 96 accord, will start 1in 4 times. no noise as if it was dead. replaced starter. worked for a week... did it again after a few days.. replaced starter again.. diagnostic on electrical ok....
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I have the strangest problem on my 2006 Audi A6: whenever I fill up my tank with gas the car has a very hard time starting. This has happened 3 times in a row now. I run the tank fairly low - to about 1 quarter tank or a little lower but never to empty....then I fill the tank. When I get in the car to start it, the engine just keeps turning over trying to start but will not start. Then I stop trying, let the ignition rest for a bit, and try to start it about 5 minutes later and it starts just fine on the first try.
What could be causing this?One thing that has also started happening around the same time as the problem above is that when I'm idling at a stop light, I notice the car may start to idle roughly and seem like it is about to die out. I am the first and only owner of this car...I take good care of it and am an easy going driver. But I do drive a lot and have about 200,000 miles on it after 7 years.
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I have an 02 accord SE. The last few times that I have pumped gas the engine would not start until 10 minutes later. First time I turned the key in the ignition there would be no sound, I tried again 2 minutes later and there would be a little sound, next time I tried there would be a little rumble. I'd wait and try 10 min later and it would start again... It has happened the last 3 times I've pumped gas and only when I pump...
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I am suddenly having difficulty starting my car. It will consistently turn over, but sounds as if it's running down the battery - right away, I don't sit for more than a few seconds with the ignition switch engaged. I turn the key to the off position and try again and it will has started up by the 3rd try every time so far. Once it starts, it runs great - no problems what so ever.
I replaced the battery about a month and a half ago so I suspected that perhaps I got a bad battery. I took the car by autozone to have them test the battery and alternator - both tested "good," But I should note that this was actually the second time I took it to autozone this weekend and the battery tested good but low charge the first time (It was fully charged this time and I had just had trouble cranking. I thought I had just killed the battery because I was using a cell phone battery charge and thought it was just drawing too much).
I suspected the starter may be going bad, but I'm not sure because it will turn the engine over every time, it just doesn't start. The girl at autozone suggested it may be the voltage regulator but I thought that that along with issues with the alternator itself would be noticeable if I ran the car with the lights, radio, etc on? I read that it could be the plugs or wires, but I would think in that case the battery wouldn't sound as if it were run down right off the bat.
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I have a 09 Honda Accord manual transmission V6 with 59K miles. Recently, it seems to stick a little going into 3rd gear - only third. Called our local dealer's service department who said I should have done a drain and fill on my transmission fluid at 30K miles. I have driven manual transmissions for 30+ years and have never heard of this - but this is my first Honda. The owners manual is not very specific about this maintenance recommendation. Did I create unnecessary wear and tear to my transmission or is my dealers service tech just working to humble me?
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I have a 1992 Honda Accord EX 5speed the car has 185k miles runs great but every time I fire up the car I run it for like a mile, if that, and the surging begins, it won't go over 2k rpm so when that happens I pull over for about a minute or two and then the car drives normal again. I'm still working on the problem finding and fixing little glitches here and there...
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Background: My 02 camry (155k) ran great but I noticed grease/oil on the front of the engine so I had a local mechanic take a look. He replaced the front valve cover gasket, timing belt, and while he was in there, the water pump. He made me take it to the dealer to reset/recalibrate the stability control sensor because after disconnecting the battery to perform the work my "VSC", "trac off" and check engine lights were on. I got it back along with a list of work they thought I needed (replace the rear valve cover gasket, dog bone engine mount, and a bunch of bs I don't need).
Problem: Quickly my check engine light is back on. I fill up gas and I can't get it to turn over. The owner of the shop gets it to turn over by gassing it a bunch while turning the key. My mechanic later tells me the check engine light is due to a bum gas cap. He replaces that and the dog bone mount. Next day check engine is back on AND the next time I get gas the same thing happens - it won't turn over until I gas it, then it turns over and stalls a few times until I really gas it and it turns over and takes. Every other time I try to start the car it turns over first try. Both times I filled up I wasn't close to running out of gas or anything. I don't think the gas cap or the fuel injectors went bad coincidentally the same day the dude had his hands in the engine.
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I have a 1992 accord Lx +200k. The problem I have is the car wont start. It will crank but wont turn over. I thought it might have been the fuel pump relay so I replaced it. It worked for awhile but now the problem has persist.
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I recently had my radiator replaced on my 1992 accord lx. Now I have notice that my temp. gage starts to climb up. All of the hoses are not leaking. I was wondering could this be a relay problem or a switch or motor fan. The a/c fan does come on when it is engaged.
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My car recently start shuddering or sputtering when I brake at a sop light or stop sign. When its in park it runs fairly smoothly but when my foot is on the brake it acts like it will quit on me, it hasn't yet. When this happens its usually very wet outside. I notice a gas smell whenever this happens and I cant do anything about it. When I pull away my car has a hard time getting going and it bounces around. I cant go get it check with a computer because its so old ...
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I've replaced the turn signal switch, bulbs and relay fuse. Hazards work and everything else, just no signals. What am I missing??
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I have a 92 accord lx that has been giving my endless hours of trouble. at 2 thousand rpm the engine chugs like its missing, but it only does this at exactly two thousand rpm. It also revs up when i put my foot on the clutch to shift. when it does this it stays at about three thousand rpm for several seconds before dropping rapidly back down to normal idle. I have just rebuilt the engine from the block up, changed the clutch, cleaned the E.G.R. port, put a new fast idle thermo valve on, new ignition system, new E.C.U., and much more.
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I had major tune up on my vehicle. First I had the timing belt and accessory belts replaced including of course the water pump. I also had the shocks replaced. My question is now everytime I start the car I would hear a screeching noise for several seconds and also when I engaged the a/c. Furthermore, in regards to my shocks when I drive over 60 mph my steering wheel begins to vibrate tremendously.
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I had my 92 Honda Accord get it's timing belt and water pump fixed. Now a month or two later, there is a problem with the engine head, the crankshaft and the pistons got locked up. My mechanic says they are not related to the timing belt. Is he responsible for those recent damages by improper fixtures of the timing belt?
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