Honda - Accord :: 1992 - Engine Will Not Turn Over And Rapid Clicking Will Follow A Few Seconds Later
Mar 13, 2011
I have a '92 Honda Accord LX and has 200,000 mi. When I tried to start the car it will not start. The engine will not turn over and a rapid clicking will follow a few seconds later. I do not think its the battery b/c the radio still works as well as the lights. I'm suspecting it might be the starter motor or the solenoid?
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I had major tune up on my vehicle. First I had the timing belt and accessory belts replaced including of course the water pump. I also had the shocks replaced. My question is now everytime I start the car I would hear a screeching noise for several seconds and also when I engaged the a/c. Furthermore, in regards to my shocks when I drive over 60 mph my steering wheel begins to vibrate tremendously.
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I have a 1992 accord Lx +200k. The problem I have is the car wont start. It will crank but wont turn over. I thought it might have been the fuel pump relay so I replaced it. It worked for awhile but now the problem has persist.
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I've replaced the turn signal switch, bulbs and relay fuse. Hazards work and everything else, just no signals. What am I missing??
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My daughter owns a 1992 Honda Accord wagon, she cannot get it to start on colder days. Sometimes she goes out and runs a hair dryer over the engine, it works, but it is getting worse. Her husband says that is ridiculous to do.
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'92 Honda Accord
My car was getting 28/29 mpg when the water pump went. Afterward the work was done the mileage dropped to ~21 mpg. Going back to the place that did the work is not an option. A few months after the work I decided to do a tuneup to fix the mileage. A guy from the parts store came out to show me how to deal with the spark plugs and told me I needed a new valve cover gasket. When I went back to the place that did the work, they agreed I needed a new gasket and would do it for the full price. They also agreed that they had just replaced it when they did the original work. Even I know gaskets don't fail that quickly. So they did a foul job originally. What could they have done to kill the mileage?
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I have a 2006 Honda Civic Hybrid (automatic). The car has a bit under 200,000 miles on it, and has been used in a lot of long distance commuting and driving. We do pretty frequent check ups on it, and checked oil/other fluids last week -- all were good (the oil is admittedly getting close to needing a change, but definitely not within the next few weeks).
I was on the return trip of a 300+ mile drive when I noticed a rapid clicking/ticking sound roughly under the right side (passenger side) dash of the car. It was not affected by turning, accelerating or braking. The clicking was not constant, not very loud (I did not notice it over my music at first) and would come and go. If it was affected by anything, it appeared to come or go when a bump was hit, but that also wasn't necessarily always the case (hit bumps and it didn't stop, hit bumps and it didn't start). I checked wheel wells and under car for objects (suspension is a bit worn and car is low to begin with, so it rides close to ground and this has been a problem before; didn't seem similar) and there was nothing.
Google has led me to the possibility of sticky lifters, and though the sound is similar-ish, I am under the impression that this would be a much more constant noise and I am also fairly confident in the current quality of my oil.
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When starting, rapid clicking like failing batteries. Had dealer install new Motorcraft batteries, and it's still happening. Clicks when i turn the key and then labors while turning over for 20 seconds. Sometimes it takes 2 or three times before it starts. I put in a rebuilt alternater 5 years ago. It seems like a fuel problem, but I'm guessing.
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I have a 1992 Honda Accord EX 5speed the car has 185k miles runs great but every time I fire up the car I run it for like a mile, if that, and the surging begins, it won't go over 2k rpm so when that happens I pull over for about a minute or two and then the car drives normal again. I'm still working on the problem finding and fixing little glitches here and there...
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Several months ago some kind of sensor was replaced on my 1991 Honda Accord. This was the case where the fan would sometimes go on after the engine was turned off. And to turn off the fan it was sometimes necessary to turn on the ignition.
What led up to all this was that one time I was driving up a fairly steep incline to a park. When I turned the engine off that is when the fan turned itself on.
Well, I drove up to that park the other day and the same thing happened (after the whatever was replaced). One thing different though, I did detect a faint whiff of what smelled like burning rubber when I exited the car (to check on the fan).
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I recently had my radiator replaced on my 1992 accord lx. Now I have notice that my temp. gage starts to climb up. All of the hoses are not leaking. I was wondering could this be a relay problem or a switch or motor fan. The a/c fan does come on when it is engaged.
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My car recently start shuddering or sputtering when I brake at a sop light or stop sign. When its in park it runs fairly smoothly but when my foot is on the brake it acts like it will quit on me, it hasn't yet. When this happens its usually very wet outside. I notice a gas smell whenever this happens and I cant do anything about it. When I pull away my car has a hard time getting going and it bounces around. I cant go get it check with a computer because its so old ...
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I have a 92 accord lx that has been giving my endless hours of trouble. at 2 thousand rpm the engine chugs like its missing, but it only does this at exactly two thousand rpm. It also revs up when i put my foot on the clutch to shift. when it does this it stays at about three thousand rpm for several seconds before dropping rapidly back down to normal idle. I have just rebuilt the engine from the block up, changed the clutch, cleaned the E.G.R. port, put a new fast idle thermo valve on, new ignition system, new E.C.U., and much more.
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I had my 92 Honda Accord get it's timing belt and water pump fixed. Now a month or two later, there is a problem with the engine head, the crankshaft and the pistons got locked up. My mechanic says they are not related to the timing belt. Is he responsible for those recent damages by improper fixtures of the timing belt?
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Okay just got a 1992 honda accord automatic and sometimes when you stop at a light it will downshift to first and take off other times it wont downshift and stay in overdrive on take off...
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Why my 92Honda accord lx stalls when the d4 light flashes
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I have a '92 accord 5 speed. I began to notice that when I step on the accelerator theirs a slight hesistation. It is very prominent when shifting gearsNo problem when the car is idling.
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1993 Honda Accord LX (263,000 miles). My headlight indicator alarm does not activate when I turn off the engine with my headlights on. I have looked at all fuses. Problematic in the morning after sun rises and can no longer see the headlights .... dead battery.
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My otherwise fine-driving 2003 Subaru Outback with 155,000 miles offers an odd, rapid, click, click, click, click directly from the engine while idling. It goes away once you drive off and then returns when you go back to idle. Not loud, not knocking, just click, click, click, click...My mechanic had no idea...and while it hasn't overheated yet (knock wood!) the engine always smells like its threatening to whenever I idle for more than few minutes, even on a cold day.
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I have a 2door 1992 Honda Accord EXR. In order to lock the car, you need to close the driver door and use the key to lock - annoying as hell but apparently the only way.
It recently got very cold and I can't seem to lock my driver's side door from the outside with my key. I tried squirting in door lock de-icer but to no avail. The key does not turn on the outside although once inside I can lock it from inside with the door lock switch.
Passenger side locks but it does not lock the driver's door.
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My 1992 Accord driver side window goes down fine. But when you go up, it stops about ever 3 or 4 inches. You hit the button up and it wont do anything. Then you push up on it with your hands and it makes a *CLICK* noise. Then you hit the button up again, and it goes up another 3 or 4 inches. And you just repeat that until it goes up. Any clue what the problem is. I tried to get into it so i could try to investigate, but i had some probs gettin to it. I had the door panel off, disconnected the door handle mechanism and all that. Can i get any deeper than that? is there another sheet metal panel that can be removed?
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