Honda :: 2000 - Extended Crank To Start
Dec 28, 2014
ACURA 2000 TL. When I start the car recently, it cranks 10 or 15 times and then starts. When I leave the key in the ignition ON position for a few seconds it starts right away. When I shut off and try to start right away it takes time to start. What is the problem ! Someone told me fuel pump/main relay need to be changed. I did and the problem remains the same. Another one told me weak battery and I changed battery the problem remains the same. After reading some blogs, I tend to believe it could be something to do with retaining fuel pressure. How do I diagnose whether it is the fuel pressure regulator or the fuel return valve or fuel pump? If it is the fuel return valve where is it located?
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I purchased my 2012 SE in October, and since that time, I've noticed that after it has sat for a few hours between starts (first thing in the morning, leaving work, etc.) it takes longer than other times for it to crank-over and start. At other times, it starts right away. I know that the fuel pump kicks in when you open the door initially, and perhaps I am trying to start it too soon. This is my first VW, so, before I worry that something needs to be checked out (due for the "courtesy check" anyway) I wanted to make sure this was not a common thing, or something I am doing wrong (didn't think I could mess up starting the thing...)
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My outback started giving me intermittent extended crank starting problems on cold engine starts a few months ago. I brought it in first to repair shop and then dealership. Battery replaced, all systems checked out, computer update, camshaft sensor shim, and still I have the problem. What this could be?
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2000 Honda Accord V6 EX Coupe
I change the oil regularly in this car and I replaced the battery in August 2014. I’d never had a problem with this car until back in June 2015 on a very hot day when I went to start it and the engine would not start. It was cranking and cranking and the starter was smooth, there were no knocks or anything out of the ordinary, the car just wouldn’t start. I started checking various things on the car, not really knowing what to do. After around 30 minutes I tried to start the car and it started up and ran completely fine. I didn’t change anything or mess with anything on the car. It just started.
This happened around twice a month until September and then I didn’t have the problem for a couple of months. It’s now December 2015, and the problem has returned. But now it is more common and happens almost every time I try to start the engine. But so far, it always starts if I wait 30 minutes or maybe a bit longer.
Important info:
I work from home and drive this car twice a week at the most. It sits for days at a time without being started. But this has been the case for the past 4 years and this probelm didn’t start happening until June 2015.
There is no movement on the tachometer when the car cranks but won’t start. The green key light doesn’t constantly blink when they key is turned. It blinks a few times then stops blinking. The check engine light isn’t on and there are no other lights on.
When the car runs, it runs smoothly and I’ve never had a problem with it cutting off or acting strange. Once the car starts and I drive it for even around 5 minutes, I can turn it off and then start it again immediately without a problem. I’ve never tried to start the car, then immediatley turn it off, then start it again so I don’t know if it would start in that situation.
It’s been kind of warm for this time of year where I live (North Carolina). It’s been around 70 degrees outside this week.
I removed the cover over the fuel pump in the trunk. I don’t think there’s any sound coming from the fuel pump when I turn the key on. I can’t hear it priming (if that’s the correct term). But when I let the car sit for 30 minutes and turn the key to on, I can’t hear anything then either, and the car still starts right up.
I took the car to a garage, but the car was starting then. I let it sit there for around two hours maybe three and went back, but the car started right up, so the mechanic told me he couldn’t do anything if the car was starting. I mean he said he would try some stuff, but he seemed kind of stumped himself. I didn’t want to start paying him money to just “try some stuff.” But I might have to do that.
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Car ran great prior to sitting for 4 months. Tried to jump it and it wouldn't turn over, so i figure the battery was dead. I replaced the batter with a new one, had fresh fuel added.
I then thought perhaps it might be the started, so I removed it and had it tested and it passed (it's working). Car still wont crank. I turn the key and there is nothing not a sound, except the fuel pump. No crank nor click? Not sure where to go from here?
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Trouble starting our 2008 escape after she has been sitting for atleast 4-5 hours (or more) We can get it going usually but we have to attempt several times before it 'catches'. After running and turning off, it starts no problem. Have replaced mas and didn't work. No 'check engine soon light' so just trying to narrow down the problem. Have replaced the fuel filter and all the spark plugs. Love my escape but not when it doesn't start!!
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I have a 2005 Passat Wagon, V6, 2.8L. I purchased this car used about a year and a half ago with 10,000 mi. It now has 32,000. I have done all scheduled maintenance. About 8 mo ago I started noticing a problem when starting the car. It seems to take a while for it to "turn-over" while starting it up. We've taken it to two different VW dealerships to try and solve the problem. About 4 mo ago, one of the dealerships replaced the ignition coil. They were able to read a memory chip of some sort to identify the problem I was having. Since this repair however, the problem has begun again. There is no consistency. Hot or cold temp. After sitting several hours or only a few minutes. The problem happens about one out of every five starts.
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So how long does one have to crank until it is considered an extended crank? 2 seconds, 5 seconds, 10 seconds.....?
The reason I ask is after all the motor work I did on my truck sometimes she fires up in less than 1 second of cranking and other times it take maybe 2 seconds of cranking. I do not think 2 seconds is considered and extended crank time but was just curious about what is considered extended cranking.
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For a long time I have been noticing extended cold cranks as compared to my dad's truck which has 50k less miles. Hasn't been much of a big deal until lately the crank has been getting longer to the point where it is noticeable and bothers me.
When the truck finally fires (10-15 seconds) it will sit and idle no problem, maybe a little rough, but that's about it. It will also run a little rough if you start driving it right away but will smooth out fairly quickly. When it first starts it is usually accompanied by a small puff of white smoke.
As a quick run down it has had the injector o-rings, glow plugs and UVCHs replaced about 36k ago. I can verify it isn't the glow plugs or the harness because it would start reliably down to -25 without being plugged in.
My thought is the injectors are just nearing the end of their useful lives (248k). Does this make sense?
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So ive been having a problem with my 2004 Honda Accord. It on occasion doesn't start. I'm talking about once a month I run into this problem. When I do have this problem, I turn the key and it cranks but doesn't start. At the end of the crank I get a scratching noise. My alternator, spark plugs and battery are all fairly new (4 months old) and oem. I'm thinking it's the fuel pump failing.
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Have 2003 Honda Element. Beginning about 8 months ago I only drive it on weekends. I turn key, motor would crank, then die, crank then die. Maybe 5 times, then I would turn key and car would start without any problem. Went to dealership and they checked ignition system out found nothing wrong. Told me when you don't start everyday this sort of thing happens. Sounded like BS to me. Recommended I start it and drive a few miles every day. I began doing this did and starting much better. Now, occasionally, I will still have the same problem. Today I went to get Chinese takeout and I turned key and engine cranked weakly and then nothing. like no engine in car. Tried to start repeatedly and no response. Then I turned key again and engine started like new car.
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Car does not have to get wet, just be in humid air. Problem going on 2 years now, mechanics tried disconnecting a (?) ground/sensor from computer, major tune up, new fuel pump. Until recently, it just took keeping it in crank position for a long time for it to finally start. Recently, in crank position for 30 seconds does nothing and has me worried I'm doing damage. In dry weather, it starts first time every time.
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I have a 2000 Jimmy and it just won't start. All lights come on and horn works. No crank when I turn the key. I had this problem before and the problem was a bad starter relay. I replaced the relay. The vehicle started up fine and ran fine for a few days. I went to start it this morning and it wouldn't. Battery is good, changed the plugs, wires, starter, cap and rotor within the last 8 months. Someone made a reference to my security system. Are there known electrical problems/interference between security system and other systems?
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2001 1.6 Accent ... The check engine light is not coming on when i put the key in and turn it...i checked ecu fuses they are all fine ...
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My Mazda MPV (2000) won't start. The dashboard lights work and the headlights work so the battery is okay, but when I try and start the engine it won't even crank.
The problem might be that last night I pulled the key out while it was on 'drive' but i was able to start it after and put it back into park. This morning though it won't even start.
Some things i noticed that may or may not be related are that the brakes pedal is very stiff, also when i press on the brakes it makes a clicking noise in the ignition, and the steering wheel is very stiff even when the key is turned to ACC. Is it permanently stuck in anti-theft or something?
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Still haven't found out the problem with excursion quitting it has stopped for good this time cranks but wont start, fuel pump and filter have been replaced shop said it was going bad, sent to dealer twice no fix.
2000, XLT, V10, 150k, 4X4 .....
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I have a 1 ton 2000 GMC sierra (old body style 99') 7.4 liter V-8 Gasser with the Allison 1000 tranny, 4x4. the engine will not crank over..
Battery was dead so I charged it, battery was holding 9v, so i hooked up jumper cables to my new car, gauge showed 12v, so I tried to start the truck.. the fuel pump, antilock brake system, and gauges came on.. as well as the "check engine light", "service engine soon", and battery light... I ensured the trans was in park, even tried neutral.. no crank.
I hooked up the mini scanner tool I have, and got no codes.. cleared the ECU/ECM anyways.. no crank.
I also tried swapping out my starter relay with the A/C relay, and pulling fuses to the ECU/ECM for 20 seconds to clear any issues/codes.. no crank
My next option is to clean the battery cables & terminals (or replace the cables), and replace the battery... the battery is only 2 years old.. due for replacement, but I'm kinda broke right now. The battery is one of those stupid side terminal ones with poor connections to begin with.. is there a top post terminal battery I can get to replace this POC? or will the posts hit the hood?
This is a plow truck, single battery setup (at the moment).. and the fisher 8' plow when running the hydraulic pump severly drains the battery.. lights dim severely, been wondering about a higher rated alternator (factory is rated at 120-140amps), larger power cables... etc.. dual battery system...
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Recently my 2003 Camry LE is blowing out a big puff of bluish/white smoke in the mornings when I first start the car or after extended periods of non-use. But I am not getting any smoke any other time that I can detect. The temperature here doesn't drop much below 70 degrees if it does. What could this be and how can I remedy it?
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I just bought a 2004 hyundai accent 1.6L standard transmission on the 13th of June, ran great drove it everyday, was driving fine when I came home monday night, went to drive it yesterday and get nothing, turn the key no click, no crank, the radio turns off as it always did when you try to start, I checked the fuses, and the battery shows twelve volts on the meter, what could cause this to abruptly happen?
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I have 2000 Ranger 4.0L 4wd, 5sp ...
Just in the last month or so as out temps have been dropping off I've been having troubles getting her started. It happens both when the engine is cold, ie first start of the day, and after starting when warm. It did it a couple times last spring, but then all summer and fall I didn't have any problems (warm outside air temps) but, now its happening again. I'd say any time the Outside air temp is 40F or less, I am worried it won't start. IF i get her to start, everything else is just fine and she runs like a top. Here are the symptoms and what I've done so far.
When I crank I will get a couple cylinders to fire for a second or two then it falters out behaving like fuel starvation. Then I crank again right away and nothing fires... just cranking over and over. If i wait a minute and crank again same symptoms or it will fire right up. Baffling!
I thought Idle Air Control valve and sticking fuel pump relay, so I threw new parts on, but no fix.
About 75% of the time if I turn the key on, hear the fuel pump running, turn key off and on, hear the pump again x3 and then attempt the start it is successful.
Unfortunately, I don't have a code reader, or fuel pressure test equipment. The check engine light is NOT ever on. DO I HAVE A FALTERING FUEL PUMP??? I've heard thats tough to change out.
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I have a 2002 Accent GS. Their is fuel flow out of the fuel filter. I've changed out the spark plugs and sprayed starting fluid into the cylinders, and still will not start. So there is no electricity to the spark plugs. Replaced all of the ECU fuses in the engine compartment and under the dash, and still will not start.
Don't think it is the coil pack, because I can't imagine both coils failing at same time. Think it is a relay or sensor. Which relay or sensor would also prevent power from going to the instrument panel gauges but still allow the instrument panel warning lights? Main relay? Crankshaft position sensor? Throttle position sensor?
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