Hesitation :: No Engine Power After Warmup
Sep 7, 2014
1996 Camaro RS, 170k miles, 3.8 liter, 5spd. Car has been fully functional. 10k miles ago, I changed fuel pump, filter plugs and wires with high quality parts. Recently got EGR code and also started to act up when driving. Took it to my trusted, long time, certified mechanic. He saw code and changed EGR. Ran good for short, cold, test drive and no codes. When I got it and drove away, it went back to bad. No power with throttling, but great idle. Puts out the classical "bog" sounds and stutters/sputters/surges.
I can only get about 35 mph out of my White Mullet once it's warm. All sensors and pressures checked good on live data viewer. I then changed coils and ignition controller. Didn't fix it. I blanked off EGR ports, didn't fix it. The car cooled off and I restarted. It ran fine for a few minutes, until I suspect it went from open loop to closed loop fuel/air control. I now guess it's the O2's or MAP, but they didn't code out, and presumably gave a reading at the shop. Could the O2's be way off base once the engine warms up and drive the fuel ratio way lean?
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Golf R, 3000 miles. Seems like the engine sounds coarse or rough between 2-3k rpm for the first 5 minutes or so of operation. Smooths out after it is up to temp. Does not run rough, it's just an audible thing. Relatively insensitive to outside ambient temperature (winter/summer). One oil change with Motul Specific, Soundaktor still in place. Is this typical or am I the only one?
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I own a 2013 ES 350 with 5000 miles.
On cold weather conditions, doing a cold start, I allow the engine to run and warm up for a minimum of 5 minutes before driving. In this time frame the engine goes thru the whining sound and then the engine noise is quiet (normal).
What do other owners allow for engine warm up time before driving.
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I have a 06 f250 king ranch with 6.0 . A few days ago my scangauge showed a code P0405
I changed my egr and after it showed two codes : P0405 and P0404
It still has a hesitation and loss of power , although better than before the Change.
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I have a 1992 k1500 5.0L. The pickup seems to run good, or at least better when it's cold and engine isn't to operating temp. But once it reaches temp it loses a noticeable amount of power, as well as has a "dead spot" in throttle response. From about 1/2 to 3/4 it's like nothing happens you push the pedal but no response. Only at about 3/4 once it down shifts then you get an increase in speed. So now back to power loss. It is bad enough that just to maintain a highway speed of 60mph it will downshift even on very small hills and on flat ground the pedal is about 3/4 of the way to the floor.
Some history: It has a rebuilt transmission in it with a 2000 rpm stall converter instead of stock(so two questions one when I re installed the kick down cable could I have adjusted it wrong and could this cause my issue, and what's the proper way to adjust? Second could the 2000 rpm stall converter cause any issues?)
It has a new distributor, cap, rotor, along with plugs and wires. I recently installed: knock sensor, map sensor, coolant temperature control sensor, tps sensor, egr valve, pcv valve, ecm, rebuilt the throttle body, as well as a few other things I'm probably forgetting.
I suspect the engine is running rich because the exhaust tail pipe has a lot of soot(it has no cat was that way when I bought it but it has way more soot than it should even with no cat.) I just checked fuel pressure and it's right at 11 to 12 psi. I haven't pulled plugs yet to confirm rich condition, but last time I changed them they were all black as coal.
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Doesn't happen all the time but when it does it is obvious at 45 mph. Not there at no load on engine. No code shown.
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I have a 2005 Limited and when I start there's a slight hesitation then the power comes on. Also, when I let off the gas and the car slow's to about 20 and below there's a little "reverse surge." The power starting out and decel'ing isn't linear. It's got a little hiccup.
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I purchased my 2013 SF 2.0 Turbo SE in August 2013. Up until then, I was a long time Toyota owner. I've very satisfied with the SF, except I've been having an intermittent issue since I bought the vehicle.
Maybe 3-4 times a month, out of the blue, when I making a left hand turn, there is a hesitation when I press the accelerator. The hesitation lasts for about a second or so, but when there's traffic coming at you while you're making the left turn, it can be quite scary and the second feels like forever!
The hesitation feels like there is absolutely no power and the engine will stall. It never does. I've had it back to the dealer/garage for diagnostics several times but they can't seem to find anything wrong. And they keep charging me for the diagnostics! This occurs in ECO mode and non-ECO mode.
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So I was turning into my neighborhood tonite, when I got a really loud thud and a major hesitation in the engine. Fortunately I was in my neighborhood and could basically coast to my house.
No CEL came on and I don't seem to have any leakage (only thing dripping underneath was condensation from a/c I believe). Obviously too late for service tonite, so have tow scheduled for 7am. What could have happened? The no CEL has me confused. I was able to restart it and it seems to idle fine, but give it has and it hesitates.
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The problem is, say I'm going around a 90-degree turn and I'm going 10 miles an hour and the engine stays in 2nd gear it does not want to pick up speed until it gets into the power band. Even if I am in overdrive and want to pick up speed it will kind of hesitate until it down shifts to 3rd then it will take off . Same thing when I am in second going to slow trying to take off, if I floor it it will down shift to first and take off like a rocket.
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My 2004 6"i" started rattling when cold but stopped after warmup, so I didn't think much of it for a few K's of miles until I took it in for an oil change. The mechanic stated that the oil filer "shroud" had cracked, it began leaking and there was less than a half quart in the car, although the "check oil light" did not come on. Upon fill-up, the rattling stopped but the mechanic also stated that there was no way to know if the engine had been damaged. This has been a great car with only 75K miles on it; half my friends say "keep driving and don't worry about" and the other says "SELL!" before the next noise I hear which might mean the engine's shot.
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Having issues on cold morning starts where the car is shaking/trembling at warmup idle? Obviously this problem isnt as prominent at this time of year...
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1993 Nissan Maxima. Great little car except when engine gets warmed up it begins to run rough and dies. At idle, when accelerating, while maintaining speed. Since its a manual it is a simple matter of dropping into neutral and it fires right up again... no problem. Then stall repeats. Went through routine steps checking plugs, filters, wires, sensors etc.. The O2 sensor (only one) is gone - as is the converter. At some point someone replaced it with a straight pipe.
After not finding a obvious answer, I began to ask around (auto-part stores, neighbors, some patrons at the saloon). Conclusion... OBD failure causing a "kill" routine which shuts off the engine. When I restart, it resets. Once it fails to enter a static state (engine is warm) it kills again. I replaced the computer with a used one "known" to operate (so the e-bay seller said) Installed it and bingo, car ran like a top for 15 full minutes - best ever. Then after 15 minutes or so, suddenly began to run rough and stalled twice before I got back home. I runs now just as before (but oh those glorious 15 minutes).
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I have a 2004 325ci. The car will hesitate when first started and not move. It's as if the car is in neutral when I step on the gas as the engine revs and then all of the sudden it jumps into gear and takes off. I had it checked last year for the first time and I was told it was the transmission, that didn't set well with me as that is $5k. I took it to the dealership and they re-programmed it and that worked some as it was August and made it much less noticeable and then it went away as we were moving into the cooler months. I live in Vegas and it is starting to approach those 3 digit temps and the problem is back. It only happens in the warmer temperatures. When I first bought the car in '06 it would have this problem every now and again and it wasn't consistent. Now its very noticeable and driving me crazy! There has to be another reason besides a re-program??? i know the people in the parking garage are wondering why this lady can't drive a stick shift!
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I have a 2004 325ci. The car will hesitate when first started and not move. It's as if the car is in neutral when I step on the gas as the engine revs and then all of the sudden it jumps into gear and takes off. I had it checked last year for the first time and I was told it was the transmission, that didn't set well with me. I took it to the dealership and they re-programmed it and that worked some as it was August and made it much less noticeable and then it went away as we were moving into the cooler months. It is starting to approach those 3 digit temps and the problem is back. It only happens in the warmer temperatures. When I first bought the car in '06 it would have this problem every now and again and it wasn't consistent. Now its very noticeable and driving me crazy! There has to be another reason besides a re-program? I know the people in the parking garage are wondering why this lady can't drive a stick shift!
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New to VW and to the Vortex. Last night I leased a 2012 Passat V6 SE, which is my first-ever DSG equipped vehicle. I am getting a significant hesitation on take off and also on rolling starts- almost like the power is being cut for half a second or so, accompanied by a little shudder. After that, it goes like gangbusters with fast and smooth shifts.
I understand the DSG functions differently than a conventional auto, but the delay is enough to affect my judgment in terms of pulling out into traffic. My salesperson told me that "they all do that" but I don't recall the issue in the others that I test-drove (may be due to limited driving time, last night was my first extended trip with the car). I also don't recall reading about this issue in any of the reviews of the V6 Passat.
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When I press on gas the engine hesitates as if it's going to stall and the acceleration takes effect only after 2 seconds or around there! The check engine light is also on.
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I have a 2006 GS300, just took it to the dealer as the VSC light came on and had engine hesitation. After checking them out, I was told that the engine needs to be rebuilt. I was informed that due to carbon built up on the manifold is causing the problem. How is it possible for a car with just 88K miles to have this problem? Should I had them recheck? Perhaps a sensor?
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A friend of mine has a 1989 240 I'm trying to get road worthy so he can sell it. After regapping, cleaning intake, cleaning idler, new sender, new in-tank fuel pump, and new MAF (all needed to be replaced) the engine still has issues accelerating from idle.
Did the usual diagnostics (#2, #6 LED flash modes). Even took apart the throttle body sensor to make sure that was functioning.
Idle is good and smooth. If I slowly open up the throttle the engine behaves well enough, but if I ope up the throttle to, say, 1/8th from idle the engine will hesitate POORLY. I can even make the engine die. I can drop the throttle to zero and rev back up fine so long the revs don't go down to idle. I made double-sure the throttle sensor clicks from the idle position (the sensor just has two spst switches to detect zero and high throttle).
Engine sounds fine otherwise. No problem opening up to full throttle once I get the revs a little above idle.
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Experiencing engine hesitation after a cold start? I've have noticed this and after the engine is warm there is no hesitation.
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This whole time I thought it was a bad or dirty MAF and it's not as I replaced it 3 times. Car hessitetes and throws a ESP light on so now I think it's problem with abs or brakes.
I have engine code:
-16486 P0102 Air mass meter G70 signal too low
I do have a VF MAF harness extension cause used to be S/C maybe that's why the signal is low, then 2 abs codes:
-01314045 Engine control module (ECM) check DTC memory there isn't much info on this but I heard a lot of people replace their ABS control module cause VW says most have short in them but in ECS tuning they don't have one for R32 like R32 doesn't have it. Does R32 have it.
-00495 ESP - sensor unit, voltage supply
I tried clearing all the codes but comes right back followed by a hesitation.
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