Gti - Volkswagen :: 2005 - Check Engine Light Came On - Engine Loosing Power
Jun 1, 2011
Friday, May 13 I brought my car to the shop because the Check Engine light came on and the engine started loosing power. $540 later they had replaced both O2 sensors. A day later the light was back on. Brought the car back on Monday and they replaced one of the sensors that was defective according to them. One day later the light was back on. Brought the car back on Wednesday and they replaced the sensor again, telling me the brand was not compatible with my car. One day later night the light came back on. Brought the car back in Friday May 20 in the morning and they have my car since. They can't figure out whats wrong. A week before all that happed I had an oil leak and they replaced the oil filter and a seal. Could that be it?
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Driving on the highway today and when I started to accelerate fast I noticed my check engine light blinking yellow and also noticed loosing boost I think I can only reach maybe 10-12 psi, I am stage 1 revo and also it was 95 degrees out, what it could be, thinking misfiring? so would that mean new coil pack and spark plugs?
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I have a 2010 Jetta with the 2.5L 5-cylinder that recently threw on the check engine light for 2 days, then the light shut off. It began once I started the car on a coldish (~20F) morning after it had been sitting curbside for several days with the passenger side wheels sitting on about 6 inches of snow so the car was listing to the side. The car fired up immediately but ran extremely rough for about 10 seconds (the engine throbbed sharply about 2-3 times per second, which could be felt through the steering wheel & seat, accompanied by a muted clunk) before I turned it off.
During this time the CEL flashed on and off and then stayed on. I popped the hood, peered stupidly at the plastic engine cover, and restarted the car about a minute later and it ran normally, but the CEL stayed on. I drove it for two days (~50 miles) with the CEL on, but on the third day (today) the CEL did not turn on. The car has been running normally for all three days. What might have caused the rough idle/CEL and whether I can pretend it never happened since the car seems to be running normally for the third day in a row and the CEL has turned off on its own?
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Whenever I fill up my VW bug it has trouble starting .... Starts fine in the morning or if just sitting BUT when I stop and put in new gas it has trouble starting AND then when it does finally start the check engine light comes on and the code says "misfire" which I am sure is a correct code since in fact it has such a hard time starting but why? Why only after filling up with gas ? And what can I do about it ????
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I have 2001 Wolfsberg Edition 4D jetta (gas) with 180,000 miles, manual transmission. The engine light has been on for years and years. Usually what I do is take it in for an oil change just before a smog. They re-set the codes. I drive it to my office and back and the light would stay off and I could smog it. Until recently. In April, I took the car in for an oil change. And when I picked it up, it ran terribly. It was lurching like crazy. I had to keep slip the clutch to drive it until it warmed up and the it would mostly start running OK. I took it back to my mechanic and he thought it was a timing belt. I had already changed the timing belt at 119,000 miles.
It seemed odd to me that this procedure needed to be done again after 60,000 miles, but I went ahead and had it done. That did not fix the problem. Then the mechanic replaced the air mass meter. That didn't work. Then he replaced the coils. That didn't work. My mechanic has had the car for a month and can't seem to figure out what to do. He keeps getting different error codes - codes that don't seem to make sense to him. The car needs to a smog (my registration date is June), but he can't smog it because we can't get the check engine light to stay off long enough.
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It's a 2010 vw jetta. Check engine light is blinking and the epc light is on the car is not paid off yet have no.
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Recently I bought an 01 Passat with a V6. Intermittently, when I go to start it, it cranks and cranks and doesn't catch. When this happens, the EPC and check engine light come on.
Other than that it is a fine car, I'm the second owner, and it was thoroughly maintained at VW dealerships and specialist. Recently there was a new oil pan and starter put in (w/in a month--previous owners).
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We have a 2003 VW Passat 1.8, front wheel drive. The check engine light is on. The code is p0778. When we start the car the gears light display lights up in red for all gears . We put the car in reverse, back out the garage and when we stop, we get a bump. And we shift to drive the car moves slowly with some hesitation.
Sometimes after the car runs for 10 minutes, then turned of for a few second then started up again, the problem goes away. Before this problem started, we would start the car in the mornings, and put in "R" , and only the reverse gear would light up. (which is the way it is suppose to work).
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2004 Golf, manual transmission. The yellow check engine light comes on when it's driven on the highway for more than 10 miles or so (60-70 mph).
The light goes off on it's own after about 36 hours of suburb driving - 1-2 miles at a time on suburb roads, lots of lights and not going over 40 mph.
1) Why the light is coming on? No other signs of trouble occur - oil looks good, temp stays fine, no smells, etc.
2) Why the light goes off after 4-6 miles/36hours?
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a 2011 jetta. brake pedal is hard no pumping action. The car show check engine. The idle is not smooth.
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My engine is in trouble. A few weeks ago, my check engine light came on. The diagnostics revealed that my Mass Airflow Sensor was done for. I replaced it, and everything was working fine for a week. Then a couple of days ago, my Electronic Power Control (EPC) light came on. The car is really dragging. It have to gun it to make it go above 60 MPH. It's become scary to drive on highways. Are the two issues potentially connected?
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I have a 2003 VW Jetta TDI and the check engine light has been staying on solid (not flashing) for a couple of months. I took it to my local dealer who tested the computer and said that it was the thermostat and a related sensor. That answer didn't seem to make sense, and unfortunately I didn?t get the code from the dealer at the time. I did though have the code read recently at another shop and it said: "Code P0674 which is #4 glow plug circuit - Q13 - electrical fault sporadic." What this means?
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Car dumbie back again with another question.The diagnostic for my check engine light indicates numerous cold start misfire codes. The cylinders are OK. That was checked during the diagnostic.The fuel intake is carboned up. It is recommended that I clean the intake manifold. Does this mean cleaning the fuel injectors, the throttle body or both? 2006 Passat VW....
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Last night I was driving in my 2003 jetta on the intersate at 65mph with the cruise control on. As I came into a turn I had to tap the brakes. As soon as I did the check engine light came on. The car was doing fine so I drove home from school. Today I drove the car to work which is a five minute drive, and back with no problem. I later went to grab lunch and bring it home and then I noticed the check engine light started flashing. I then felt the engine start to stutter, as if it was misfiring. We had the windshield defrost when we started to smell a rotten egg smell. Luckily we were pulling into our drive when we smelled the odor. I immediately turned off the car and got out. I couldn't smell the rotten egg smell, but I did smell burning plastic. I didn't see any smoke and could not pinpoint the cause of the smell.
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After idling for a while the check engine light has come on and stays on. I have a 2005 Mazda RX8. the car has 44000 miles on it,
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What I know the truck was running normal except if I stomped the gas pedal and let off it would not respond again until I shut off keys and restarted this was a month ago now the truck sounds like it has a lope tune.
When I hit the gas pedal it blows white smoke and if I press the gas while idling or driving it floods out I did the spray bottle test on manifolds the drivers side was plenty hot the passenger side is cold you literally can touch while it's running.
The truck sounds like it's only running on 4 cylinders it has gotten so bad I parked the truck. Also this truck always had poor mpg 8 to be exact city hwy and towing nothing changed the mpg at all it used to blow out wet soot that would fall down on the truck and anyone standing near it.
Mods unknown pcu program 4in straight pipe with 12in stack harpoon mod in tank
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One morning I went to start my 2000 Accent, 1.5L Auto and the engine couldn't get going. I had road service come look at it and they said the problem was the fuel pump, I then got the car towed home. I changed the fuel pump and everything was working great again. I then changed the fuel filter, air filter, oil filter and flushed/refilled the oil. I used the car very lightly for a few days and had no problems.
Then yesterday I took the car about a 30 min drive, when on a main road my engine begun loosing power and I couldn't accelerate, as if the engine was not getting fuel. I managed to pull over safely and after about 30 mins of not getting anywhere I decided to hit around my fuel tank/pump with my club lock many times and what do you know the car starts and I manage to drive it about 25 mins, I was almost home when the same thing happened. I pulled over, waited, hit the tank and finally drove all the way home.
When I originally changed the fuel pump everything seemed fine, the plastic pump housing and everything attached to it appeared in great condition. So my hunch is that the problem would be where the fuel actually enters the engine block? The way that everything works fine until driving for roughly 25 mins makes me think the problem may be dependent on the temperature of the engine, given that's the main variable that changes?
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I have a 2009 Avalon that is displaying a Check Engine Light and a VSC light. Is it possible it is doing so because I have two different brand tires on the front hankook and the back Michelin?
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My 2005 Prius has 105,000 miles. The check engine light came on for the first time ever. Dealer will diagnose tomorrow. If it's the main battery, should I sell it?
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Recently the 'check engine' light went on in my 2005 Chevy Cavalier. since I couldn't afford the typical diagnosis charge, I went somewhere where they code it at no cost. They said it was the gas cap, so I went to a dealer & bought one. (They also turned the light off for me.) Problem is now the light is back on. While I was at the dealer, the mechanic said it will have to be properly checked to pass inspection; apparently it has something to do w/ emissions. Is that true?
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I have an '05 Honda hybrid with 75000 miles. Recently the check engine light came on; the code I pulled was P2000-NOx trap below efficiency threshold, bank 1.
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