I have a 2010 VW GT with the 6 speed manuaI. The shift action feels longer and sloppier than the action was on the five speed from my much missed 2002 VW Passat wagon (only option the v6 engine). I'm considering a short throw shifter and would like to understand the pros and cons, and which shifter would be the best one for my car.
View 2 RepliesIt is a 2001 1.8T Golf, automatic. 75000 miles on it, mostly highway. I returned from my recent road trip, halfway across the country, which involved a couple of snow storms but otherwise everything ran smoothly.The day after I got back, I was going to dinner and the car wouldn't shift up out of 1st gear... unless I gunned it to almost 40 mph. Next time I started it, the check engine light turned on. I have driven it 3 miles, twice, since then and the problem remains. What the problem might be, if I'll need to replace transmission or just some fluid, or get a new car?
View 1 RepliesCould my brake issue be related to my transmission problem? Neither are constant. Brake problem= sometimes the brake pedal feels hard, like there's no power brakes (I drove a car once. ..looong time ago. .. that had no power brakes or steering) but it will kick in after a short distance. Transmission prob= seemingly unrelated, is a problem shifting from 1st to 2nd gear. This has happened maybe a 1/2 dozen times, the first time and mostly when in heavy commute traffic and when going between 1st and 2nd gear because of the slow commute speed, but also at other times when not in lengthy slow commutes. When it doesn't shift, the odometer doesn't work (shows only dashes) and an engine light comes on (the sprocket/gear looking one). Usually the transmission will eventually shift and the light goes off.
I read that the brake problem might be a vacuum hose problem? Something about a booster? Is this dangerous? or is it like having a car w/ no power brakes? Going to have my transmission looked at this week. Read on another site about dropping valve seats on this year car. If there's a major transmission problem, I'm wondering if it's worth fixing? I changed, timing belt, water pump, front and rears brakes, tires. 143,000 miles.
Sons saturn will not go into gear after a hard braking action. The shifter will move, the car just acts like it is in nuetral, engine revs with gas, no movement in any gear or reverse. After waiting for a few minutes he can put it in gear and go as if nothing happened. I have checked the fluid, its nice pink and clear and full. He says it has happened 3 times in the past week, has driven it for over a year with no major problems. He is 17, but seems decent with a manual.
I have tried to replicate but can not the car drive good, no shifting problems on normal driving and no check engine lights.
When I'm driving, steady mph, my car feels as if I've just downshifted, or that my foot slipped off the gas pedal. When this happens I've noticed that the tachometer drops down from say 20 - 30 to 10 or less! But just momentarily. It happens to a warm or cold engine. It's going to give me a whiplash! I've brought it to my VW dealer. They put it on the computer, and no problem comes up! No lights on my dashboard are on either. This problem is really annoying.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2002 VW Eurovan, 2.8L V6 Winnebago Vista 21B, 130k miles, my check engine light is on but having a hard time trying to figure out what's causing it and what direction to head without spending a fortune. It started while traveling across country two years ago, several days into the trip, after driving several hours at freeway speeds on a cool rainy day, I stopped for gas and when I turned it back on it sputtered and coughed and ran REALLY rough, I slowly moved the vehicle out of the way, about 50 ft, turned it off and when I turned it back on it was fine, except the check engine light came on. I took it into VW and they ran the test... the codes were: P0118 Coolant Temperature Sensor 1 3 Cylinder Misfires P0305, P0300, P0303 P1151 Bank 1, mixture adaptation, range 1, Lean limit not reached, static
They said it wasn't going to destroy the vehicle, to continue on my trip and I'd need to do some sleuthing to find the culprit. The light came on and off throughout the trip but didn't have the sputtering again ( although I didn't push it as hard when driving it either, kept it around 65 - 70).Got back to Montana and a local shop replaced the ignition coil. That didn't fix the check engine light, which is on continuously now (that's been 2 years with mild use of about 8k miles).
Until now, it hasn't sputtered again so I didn't really worry about it, but it happened in Oregon last week when it was again cool and rainy, I'd been driving hwy speeds for a few hours, I stopped for gas and when I restarted it sputtered, coughed and rumbled like it did 2 years ago. I turned it off for 30 secs, restarted and it was fine.In talking this over with a variety of folk, we're thinking the issue could be a fuel filter, fuel pump, coolant sensor or catalytic converter sensor... I have a fuel pressure test scheduled in a couple of weeks.
I have a 1998 Volkswagen Cabrio GLS 4Cyl2.0L. the wheel that raises and lowers the back of the seat has come out. The small plastic interior part appears to have snapped. Is there a way to order a replacement part and replace this myself?
View 4 RepliesI own a 2005 Volkswagon Passat, and took it to my mechanic yesterday to get a sticker and my new summer tires put on. When I picked up the car, the passenger side speaker is no longer working. About a month ago I took my car to a specialist to have an aftermarket radio put in for me that I got for my birthday so I can listen to my iPod. Why my passenger side speaker is not working anymore? Does it have anything to do with what my mechanic might have messed up when putting the new tires on?
View 5 Replies190000 miles... Driving on the highway my car began to vibrate and lose speed. I had to shift out of overdrive before I could get the car to respond again. It continued to feel incredibly impeded. I could not push the car over 65mph and couldn't remain at speed going uphill. From a dead stop, the car accelerates incredibly slow in any gear. The engine feels impeded even in P and N almost like the trans does not disengage.
The trans will downshift and kick up RPM when the pedal is put to the floor like normal. What could be causing the trouble and how much it could cost to have repaired? I have checked the trans fluid in park at op temp and it's perfect. No fluid is leaking from the car. Car feels like it's in drive and I'm holding the brakes while hitting the gas... even in P and N so I don't think it could be brakes.
This just happened today. The car will no longer shift pack into park, all the way up the car is still in reverse. All other gears are working fine. What could be wrong with it?
View 5 Replies'04 RX330 AWD 116k...Recently noticed the shifter is no longer going into drive. When placed in the "D" position (on the right hand side of the "4-D" slot), the dash indicator reads "4". I have verified the trans is only shifting as far as 4th (70mph=3000rpm w/stock tires). ECT/Snow is not turned on.
To clarify, the problem is not physical/mechanical as far as the shifter itself...the shifter will drop to the correct "D" position, but the car says, thinks, and acts like its in "4".
So we have a van with the 6.0. It has a little over 100,000 miles. It has started to take longer to up shift. The dealer ( I know. but I know my service guy and he has done well in the past ) says we need to do injectors and fuel regulator plus a host of small parts to do the job. about 8 grand or so of work. Everything on the trans checks out and is supposed to be in perfect order. Truck goes well once up to speed but its getting the is the problem. So its parked so we don,t melt an injector.
View 3 RepliesRecently my 93 Ranger 4.0 has started to take longer to shift into 2nd gear and the rpms are way up there. shortened 2nd gear then 3rd will be fine and so on. This only happens after the engine goes completely cold. I took it to a transmission shop and they said tranny is fine...Other than this issue the truck is fine.
View 6 RepliesMy '95 Aerostar 4.0 no longer likes to shift out of first gear. It will if I accelerate to maybe 25mph and completely get off the throttle for a few seconds. (It also revs freely at full-throttle kick down, as though it was in neutral.) A fluid and filter change didn't work, so I dug into forum posts. I found the vacuum modulator, and there's no ATF in the vacuum line, but it's an adjustable one which has me baffled...
The modulator has a thumb wheel on the outside of it. It will unscrew completely - and then it comes off, with a pin attached to it. This is very different from the ones I've seen pictures of here, where the pin is moved by the diaphragm. Is this the same pin, or some kind of preload device for the actual pin farther inside?
There's enough else wrong with the Aerostar that I'm not willing to sink very much more money into it. It'll run as is, as long as I'm careful. I'm just trying to get a few more miles out of it... might a regular, non-adjustable modulator?
I have a 2011 Jetta 5 spd, was driving today and suddenly I could not shift in 4th, 5th or reverse. This is the first time this as happen, I have never had any issues with the far. I don't know much about transmissions. The clutch seems to be working fine as I can shift with ease from 1st, 2nd, and 3rd.
View 3 RepliesOne of my roommates is also my ride to the bus stop in the mornings, and we've been arriving later and later for the past few weeks because of a persistent issue with his car, a 2003 VW GTI basic trim with automatic transmission.
After starting it in the morning, we have to wait a few minutes for it to warm up before it will agree to shift out of first gear while in D. Even then, often after he comes to a stop and turns left, it will once again refuse to shift out of first gear, so we'll be forced to pull over and wait a few more minutes once again.
I read a few forums that mentioned stuff about solenoids, but the whole thing is over my head. He does park on a steep-ish grade, as we live on a hill, if that provides any further clue. We're in Southern California, so the temperature isn't too extreme here, and there seems to be no other reason to have to warm up the car.
So that's about it! How we might go about getting it resolved? Is it something we can roll our sleeves up in the driveway and do ourselves?
My 14 year old Jetta, 119,000 mile will manually o into reverse ,but will not allow me to reverse the car? Could this be a clutch problem, or transmission. Is it worth repairing it, or purchasing, leasing car? Car also had new engine 3 years ago.
View 1 RepliesHow to diagnose bad suspension components on my own. Basically, what's going on right now is sometimes when taking a left turn, i feel a vibration and sometimes feels like one of the tires are slipping underneath me. at speeds above 30 mph, there is a reverberation noise, and above 60, my car starts shaking and I begin to lose it's handling properties. Occasionally when going over bumps, I hear a slight knock coming from the right front. Also, I'm having elevated cabin noise. The tires (at the moment) still are wearing evenly. I believe this is a wheel bearing, as I test drove a focus once where the seller said it had a bad wheel bearing and it's having similar issues. Would I most likely be right, or could there be another issue?
View 5 RepliesLong time listener first time poster. My wife has a 2009 Vw jetta 2.5 with a manual transmission that is very hard to shift. It has 80,000 on it and has had the clutch replaced once. She told me that she never had any problems shifting until she let it sit for two weeks while she went to cape cod. I have driven it myself and can confirm that there is an issue. Sometimes it just will not go into gear. No grinding noise at all and very very stiff when moving the stick shift laterally from first to fifth. Not actually shifting from 1-5 just moving the stick across the range it feels like cement. I have already changed the transmission fluid and used the Vw oem oil. I also removed the shift boot and lubed all the moving parts with a high quality grease. Tomorrow I am going to bleed the clutch slave and have a good look at the shift linkage. Is their something I am missing?
View 5 RepliesI bought a used VW 1.8T with Tiptronic Transmission ~88,500 miles, so I don't know what is normal and what I should be concerned with (I'm a stick shift person, bought this to be the family car). I particularly notice what seems to be a delayed shift when going up hill RPMs go up to ~4k before the shift. Is this a late shift?I've been reading a fair bit of online fora about the need to change the ATF + filter + clean the pan every 30-40k.
View 2 RepliesI have the above referenced car with about 65k miles on it. Today I took it for a drive, switched it to tip-tronic manual and found that the car would not shift past 3rd gear. When I switched to automatic, the transmission stayed on tip-tronic (the display indicated I was on 3rd gear). I had to fully stop the car, place it on park and only then did the transmission switch to automatic.
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