Golf - Volkswagen :: Highway Vibration That Won't Go Away
Sep 4, 2016
A while back, I bought some aftermarket rims for my '15 Golf to replace the sad 15" 195-section tires that came stock, and got 17 Sparco Pro Corsa rims with BF Goodrich gforce comp-2 all seasons.It drove great for a few weeks, (beautifully, even). Then I hit the mother of all potholes. My stomach sank the moment I ran over this product of poor infrastructure management. Little did I know I would be cursing this moment for months to come.The next day was when the vibration started. At this point, it started at 50 mph or so, and just got worse on the highway. I had to get 2 new rims on the right side, and the people at AAA said it was fine. It wasn't fine. Really, it wasn't any better.
So I took it back, and advised that I replace the two tires, because it was highly likely they had slipped belts from the impact. A couple more hundred dollars later, it was... a little better. But it wasn't back to normal. By this point I was done with AAA, and went to the dealer. They noticed that one of the spacers was installed crooked. Great. They fixed that, and didn't notice anything wrong until the next time I went on the interstate, when I noticed that, indeed, it still was vibrating. This time, however, it was just above 65 mph.This is where I should describe the vibration in greater detail. From 0 to 65, nothing is wrong.
But as soon as I hit 65, the steering wheel shimmys and the car whole car lightly shakes. It goes in and out, like it is being occasionally canceled out, and is not throtttle, braking, or turning sensitive.Back to the dealer it was, and of course, they could not find the root of my frustration. They did put the stock wheels on, and the vibration stopped. With the aftermarket ones, it still did vibrate, even with a rotation, balancing, alignment, et cetera.So, the question is: what the heck is going on? How can this be A) diagnosed and B) fixed without getting new wheels/tires or renting a chassis dyno?
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I'm driving my wife's 2002 VW Golf on the highway to build miles (it's at 84k). It's a manual with gearing that's at 3500 rpm at 70 mph in 5th gear, which seems pretty high. It had been doing fine on the highway, even though the RPM seems a bit high due to gearing, but it keeps me under 80 mph (highway is largely 70 mph). It burns oil, but not too bad, like a quart every 500 miles or so.
Recently, when driving at "high" speed (slightly over or near 70 mph), I get a plume of intense white smoke. After slowing down, the plume goes away, and I can continue near 65 mph.
After this happened today, I put on a code reader, and saw of P0159, air fuel ratio oxygen sensor issue. What causes the white plume of smoke, and what to do about it? Seems like the car should have more miles on it.
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2004 Golf, manual transmission. The yellow check engine light comes on when it's driven on the highway for more than 10 miles or so (60-70 mph).
The light goes off on it's own after about 36 hours of suburb driving - 1-2 miles at a time on suburb roads, lots of lights and not going over 40 mph.
1) Why the light is coming on? No other signs of trouble occur - oil looks good, temp stays fine, no smells, etc.
2) Why the light goes off after 4-6 miles/36hours?
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Driving on the highway the other day and I was doing about 80 and I noticed that the front end started to vibrate pretty loud so I slowed down to around 70 and it stopped. I got home and called up the local tire shop had all my wheels re balanced as I heard that could be the cause they were near perfect. Tires have about 3,000 miles on them. so yesterday I took it out to see if it would do it again and I noticed when it starts to vibrate at about 80 and I push in the clutch it stops immediately. Could my clutch be going out? or possibly like the throw out bearing.
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I have been feeling a vibration in my right rear at highway speeds (70+mph) At first i thought that maybe it was a wheel bearing but that would constantly be vibration and it wouldn't be off and on like it is. The car is on coils and a friend mentioned to check and make sure my right height is the same all around. I checked just by comparing the fender well gaps and it does seem as if the right rear is a bit lower. If this is the case, can ur car being a little lower on one side cause this vibration? if so, how?
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Last week I posted about dropping my car off for service and the dealer finding that all four of my wheels were bent, causing vibration at highway speeds. So I spent a couple hundred dollars and had them fixed.
Car still vibrates at highway speeds...
I feel the vibration in my seat and throughout the car at about 60+mph. The faster I go, the more noticeable it is. I can even hear it.
Dropped off at the shop. Shop called me back stating that the vibrations are being caused by the two tires that need to be replaced.
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New to the board- sold my b6 passat for '12 GTI manual.
Its been a few years since i've owned a stick so I'm not sure if this noise is normal or just because the car as 100 miles on it OR just because I'm a freak when it comes to hearing every little noise.
But when i'm say in 5th or 6th gear on the highway and give it some gas I hears some noise like a fluttering vibration noise for a second or two and then it goes away? It sounds like its coming from right underneath me. Its not a huge deal but on my first brand new car, I'd rather just have someone tell me its normal or if it needs to be fixed or a bolt tightened or something.
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In April, took my wife's 2007 Volkswagen Jetta 2.5 to my local import repair shop to have the a/c looked at. I explained that it took about 5-10 minutes to cool, depending on driving conditions. They looked at it, checked the pressure and said it looks fine. No problems. It also wasn't a very hot day when they looked at it. So now I need to diagnose this problem so maybe I can fix it myself. To better diagnose, I have the following facts:
From a cold start, when the a/c is turned on and set to highest fan speed and coolest setting, both engine cooling fans do not spin. While driving- the higher the rpm's, the faster the a/c gets cool.Cools faster at highway travel. After returning from a drive and parked at an idle, the engine is hot, both engine cooling fans are seen and heard running while a/c is still on.
While idling in the driveway after a drive, when I decrease the a/c interior fan speed to 1 or 2, the engine cooling fans slow down. While idling in the driveway, when I turn the a/c off, the engine cooling fans slow further. A/C is ice cold when working, maybe 45 degrees. High and low pressure are correct. Engine temp is within normal limits. What part I need to repair or replace?
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My '03 JETTA stalled on the hwy while I was driving...it just lost power and the battery light came on. I had the blower on and the radio, and the lights as it was nighttime...i turned the key to the off position and turned it back on and the car started without hesitation...what could have caused that to happen?... Battery is brand new and vehicle just had a tune up.
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Have a 2007 jetta. A/C works well. However when highway driving the air stops blowing into cabin as if someone had shut all vents. When slow down, problem goes away. Took it to dealer and they have no clue.
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My '98 Cabrio recently had the headlights both go out while driving at night on a curvy state highway. I pulled onto a side street and tried to figure out a way to be able to continue my drive home safely with lights. I found that by turning the ignition key to the right and jiggling the key I could get it to temporarily stay in a position to allow my lights to remain on.
In time, that solution was no longer an option and I discovered that by pulling the brights lever (it should be noted that it usually clicks into place) and holding it towards me, the lights would work, albeit on bright mode which tends to irritate fellow motorists. Strangely, the heater fan and wipers would only work while in this new found method of illuminated driving by releasing the brights switch and pulling it a second time towards me (remember, it doesn't lock into place as it should). How to repair this problem? It defies all logic as to why things on this car work or don't work.
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I recently I had the cv boots replaced on my 2006 VW Passat 2.0. Since then the front vibrates upon acceleration. I have taken the car to a different mechanic than the one who did the cv boots and he says there may be a broken motor mount. I am skeptical about this diagnosis but now am completely stumped.
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My 2001 Jetta 2.0L steering wheel vibrates at about 60+ mph and when I turn the steering wheel to the right into a turn, the vibration intensifies. I've changed and rotated my tires, but to no avail, the problem persists. I have yet to take this problem to a mechanic until I've found out what the issue actually is, as I do not want to get jerked around. I've looked around on various VW blogs, and from what I can gather, the CV joint needs to be replaced/repaired.
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2005 VW passat... I bought this car used. I was told the front engine mount needed to be replaced. When it was replaced, the vibration began. The mechanic used an after market mount. He replaced it with a VW mount and also replaced the two side mounts for the transmission with VW mounts. The vibration was still there. I then took it to a VW dealer and they confirmed that the mounts were installed properly and could not identify the cause. I took it to a third mechanic who made some adjustments to the front mount and that reduced the vibration somewhat. After a few months, the vibration increased and I took the car to another VW dealer. He said the front and side mount needed to be replaced. That was done and still the vibration continued. What else could be going on to cause this problem. Carfax indicated no accidents or body repairs.
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Since a while I'm getting a vibration.... when going on the highway, the vibration is NOT there initially. Then it gradually get stronger and stronger as distance goes on, but same speed.
Hitting the brakes make the pedal vibrate sometime, but fade out. then the vibration is gone for a bit, and come back slowly.
Note that this is at a constant 100km/h, not increasing speed. I ruled out the wheel balance due to the fact that it's not constant. Everything seems to be tight, couln't feel any movement in anything.
Brake on the left side is way hotter than the right side, so I do suspect that the right side do not work correctly.
Sometime the wheel also kick on the left a bit while braking. I do not know if it's 2 problems or a single one. At last wheel swap, the calipers seemed to slide correctly.
Also, I think I have air in the brake line, as the pedal is too smooshy for my taste, and I can't seems to be able to make the abs kick in (but good tires, so might be the reason?)
Note: top plates on the front suspension seems to have a bit of play, but I believe it have no effect on this issue.
The winter tires, on separate rims, also do the same thing. It seems to get worse as time goes by.
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For a while I had been having vibration at between 60-80mph I think I mentioned it in a thread before too. Well anyway when I got my 30,000 mi check up they told me it was probably due to the tires being unbalanced and that my tires were in such bad shape that balancing them woudln't make a difference. So I got to new tires (and my rims as you all remember) from NTB. I took it back to Toyota to get the alignment done after that I got on the highway to see if it was vibrating still and it was so they told me to bring back in.
So today they told me one of the tires that I got at NTB was bad because they couldn't get it balance within the range of the other 3 tires so I took the car back to NTB got into it with the guy there and they eventually saw things my way and put a new tire on the car. So after that I get back on the high way the car starts vibrating right when it hits 60. So I take back to Toyota, the guy tells, I heard him mention to one of the mechanics that it might be a bad axle.
Around 6:30 or so they call me and tell me they are going to take rims and tires off a brand new Camry and put them on my car and the manager who lives far away is going to drive my car home and then back again in the morning to get a better idea of the problem with the car. And to top that off they wanted to charge me 40 bucks for a rental car, but luckily I can drive my dad's Cam to work.
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Hyundai Elantra 2002.
First I want to tell you some details about the tires... The front tires are from different brands, the right one is Nexen Radial N5000 P195/60R15 and the left one is a Pirelli P400 P195/60R15. The back tires are the same brand but they are a little big bigger, P195/65R15.
After saying that... I'm feeling a vibration when I go faster than 100 km/h on the highway, it makes me feel insecure, when I go at 90 km/h the car is fine, the vibration is not only at the wheel, I can feel it in the entire car... Could be the different tires? Unbalance? Alignment? Rotation? Perhaps a problem with the RIMs?
And also, I hear a toc toc toc noise at the right front side of the car when I turn and brake at the same time... I just hear that noise when I turn and brake, when I'm going straight or I turn without brake I don't hear nothing.
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On my 09' passat wagon 2.0t: I've been on a couple of long highway runs and noticed that my steering wheel is vibrating slightly at higher speeds. Naturally I went for a wheel balance. They showed me one rim was slightly bent from a pot hole or something, but they were able to balance it and put it in the rear. Still a vibration. Took it back to the tire shop and they checked the balance again.
At this point I was still noticing the vibration and went so far as to swap the "damaged" wheel with another off of a passat with the same wheels. No difference noticed. Is it my imagination or is the steering so light in these passats that im feeling every imperfection of the road? I don't remember the car always feeling like this. I am at 14k miles and have the crappy stock good year tires.
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for the last several weeks, I've noticed a problem that seems to be getting progressively worse... there is a vibration seemingly from the front end (possibly passenger side), and it only appears on the interstate at typical highway speeds (70-75 MPH). facts:
1. It does not happen below ~70 mph.
2. It doesn't appear to be a wheel bearing - no noticeable change in tone or "amplitude" while turning at speed.
3. I use cruise control all the time on the highway, and it is more noticeable going downhill (increases in vibration), when the engine is obviously off-throttle.
4. The car is a 99 V6 5mt.
5. The axles that are presently on the car are Raxles, and have been on it for ~4 1/2 to 5 years.
6. I recently changed over (this past weekend) to my winter/stock wheels and tires, but it was doing it with the summer wheels and tires.
7. It happens regardless if the gears are engaged or not (5th or neutral - I coasted down a hill on the interstate today in neutral to add more info).
8. I've replaced the wheel bearing on the passenger side about 6 weeks ago.
I'm thinking I have an inner CV Joint that is starting to fail. The boots are intact, as I inspected them recently while replacing the clutch/pressure plate/throwout bearing/flywheel. The transmission axle flanges had no play. The vibration was occuring prior to when I changed out the clutch.
Thoughts? Inner CV joint, or...???
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I'm having an issue with my wife's 2008 Camry. We're feeling vibration at highway speeds. Feels like it's coming from the front passenger side. We've had all 4 tires replaced (two of them replaced twice because we got lucky and the shop gave us a set of 4 for free with all the trouble we were having with the goodyear tires they sold us), and added hub-centric rings to her wheels. There are no noises to tell me whether it's a cv axle or a bearing. I've been under the car and the only thing I can find that comes close to loose is that the passenger side axle has a just a little more side to side play (runout - inner cv) than the driver's side.
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My 04 Solara 3.3L vibrates like crazy at highway speeds, but the vibration goes away after a couple of miles, only to return again later, and it isn't a tire balance issue. The vibration comes on quickly, and I have to hold the wheel with both hands, then it slowly diminishes and runs smooth again.
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