Golf - Volkswagen :: 2002 - White Smoke At Highway Speeds
Sep 18, 2014
I'm driving my wife's 2002 VW Golf on the highway to build miles (it's at 84k). It's a manual with gearing that's at 3500 rpm at 70 mph in 5th gear, which seems pretty high. It had been doing fine on the highway, even though the RPM seems a bit high due to gearing, but it keeps me under 80 mph (highway is largely 70 mph). It burns oil, but not too bad, like a quart every 500 miles or so.
Recently, when driving at "high" speed (slightly over or near 70 mph), I get a plume of intense white smoke. After slowing down, the plume goes away, and I can continue near 65 mph.
After this happened today, I put on a code reader, and saw of P0159, air fuel ratio oxygen sensor issue. What causes the white plume of smoke, and what to do about it? Seems like the car should have more miles on it.
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My VW Passat 2002 produces lots of white smoke when stop at light or parked and restart. My engine light stays on after spending over $200.00 trying to get fixed.
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I have an 02 jetta 1.8t just recently put oil in it and it's now pouring white smoke at idle and right around when I'm in 3rd. When parked and running it's puking oil and I have oil sprayed all in the engine bay. I have it sitting now and there's still a drip.
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I have a volkswagen TDi 1.9 automatic which is using coolant more on short runs than on motorway and produces white smoke/steam on start up even when not cold which disappears after a few seconds. Other symptom is doesn't accelerate though goes OK when once up to speed. Have has cylinder head checked and new gasket so that is not the culprit and also new heat exchanger. There is also a gurgling noise which seems to be coming from the dash board though I am not sure if these things are related. I have read that the automatic has a water cooled EGR, could this be it??
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I recently had a problem with my car jerking slightly on highway, and I think I've resolved this by replacing the spark plugs. It does still do it, but maybe only one or two jerks per 100 miles. It used to be one or two jerks every 30 seconds. So I think I've found at least part of the source of the jerk. I could possibly purchase new spark plug caps (wires) and hopefully that would put that problem to rest.
Dodge Intrepid ES
3.2L V6
126,000 Miles
So my car has white smoke coming from the exhaust. On start up, on warm up, on hot idle, and on cold idle. The coolant in the reservoir is quite skanky looking and I've been meaning to flush it but haven't gotten around to it. But I've done quite a lot of research lately and also just have my own personal experience (employed as a mechanic at a small engines shop for quite some time.) and I've found the most common answer would be a head gasket problem, or even more serious, a cracked block, causing coolant in small amounts to leak into the cylinders. I figured that would be the answer I would find but I like to do some research before I go prodding at my car.
The exhaust is white, not grey, not blue, not black. A nice pure white color, and obviously comes out thicker and in larger amounts when you give it some gas. Also it smells sweet. Another clue it could be coolant.
Another thing that made me worry was when I replaced the old spark plugs, they looked like they were being run in a really lean engine. Barely any carbon tracks on them, almost clean looking. Which worries me. It could be suggesting that I COULD be burning water (coolant) in my engine. The coolant level in the reservoir does go down but at a pretty small amount.
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I have a 97 Ford Ranger / 2.3L / 4 cylinder (L4) / 5 speed manual / XL Supercab / 140k miles. I had been having some Check Engine issues and ran rough in town stop light to stop light. But was fine on the highway.
On several visits to the parts store, their OBD tester showed:
PO303 (Cyl 3 misfire detected)
PO141 Bank 1 Sensor 2 O2 Sensor (heater circuit malfunction)
PO171 Bank 1 Combustion Too Lean (the most recent new code to show up)
And the following would show up sometimes, but other times not:
PO 402 EGR Flow - Excessive Detected
P1409 EVR (I cant remember the exact error message for this)
Regards the PO141 code, O'Reilly's sold me a Bosch O2 Sensor (Bosch 15719) and the sales rep told me it was the sensor closer to the engine. And with the attached cable length on the sensor showed was indeed the sensor closest to the engine. But I've been advised the Sensor 2 is for the 'downstream' sensor, furthest away from the engine. And the other sensor, that I replaced is the upstream sensor. And the error continued.
Then back issues showed up and I had back surgery this past year and thus drove the vehicle sparingly. Never resolving the check engine issues. (My bad). Ran on the highway ran fairly well. But recently noticed longer acceleration times and unable to top 65 in 5th gear. I bought spark plugs and plug wires and had plans to change next week.
Yesterday as driving down the Interstate, was 90 miles into my trip, I noticed loss of power even in fourth gear. (note it was the hottest day of the year at 100F). It seemed I used more gas than usual for that distance. I stopped for gas on the Interstate and power seemed to improve. Then about 130 miles into my trip I hit some heavy stop and go traffic, and wasn't able to keep an idle and the engine died numerous times if/when I didn't give it gas at a dead stop. The heavy stop and go heavy traffic and the issues persisted for a half hour for more than five miles. Then when traffic opened up the truck seemed to have a bit more power in 4th gear again. And up to that time all my dash gauges were showing fine. Then a couple miles or so down the interstate, driving 65mph in the inside lane, the check engine light started flashing quickly. And at the same time a sudden loss of power, rough sounding engine with heavy white smoke coming under the hood. And looked back in rear view mirror, with nothing but heavy white smoke. Managed to cross three lanes in heavy traffic and was able the vehicle to the outside emergency lane, finally coming to a stop.
Looked under the hood and saw oil dripping everywhere but with all the oil everywhere I could not find a prime source. Looked like the oil came from the top end of the engine and dripped down. Measured the oil at the dipstick and it seemed like I was at least a quart plus down (I checked the oil before I left on the trip). And it didn't look like any water was in the oil. And my radiator overflow tank was at the proper level. So I figured I lost all that oil during that period of "white smoke".
So had my vehicle towed home. Today in daylight, I did some more inspection and removed the air intake system (hoses and canister) from the air filter to the throttle body. There was significant oil up to the canister piece that fits on the air filter canister (but no oil in the actual air filter), and significant oil inside all the hoses up to inside the throttle body (up to the butterfly which I could see),
When I disconnected these hoses I noticed the blow-by hose connected to the intake hose system was not connected to anything. And a tube opening on the valve cover was open without the a blow-by hose attached and, with no clamp. So I assume all that oil and came out of that blow-by tube on the valve cover, (white smoke created by hot oil hitting the engine).
So appears to me that its not a blown head gasket or worse, which I first feared.
I have the vehicle parked at home.
QUESTIONS: So what are the suggested steps to troubleshoot and repair? Besides reattaching everything and putting a clamp on the blow by hose? And installing new spark plugs and plug wires. I previously replaced plug wires around 60k, even though the manual recommended 100k mile replacement. (And a couple yeas back I had the dealer replace the PCV, which was recommended in the manual and included in the warranty. The timing of the initial check engine lights appeared shortly thereafter).
Is there suppose to be a large amount of oil in the air intake system after an incident like this and should I try to clean/flush out the hoses and the inline canister?
When I disconnected the inline canister from the hoses in the air intake system, unfortunately I failed to document the direction which the canister goes. It has outside markings "ADP with a forward arrow with some horizontal lines, and then at the other end upside down markings with a greater sign PP less than sign. Should the forward arrow point toward the throttle body or toward the air filter (I'm thinking in the direction of air flow, toward the throttle body). I've taken some photos of the engine with air intake hose system unattached, if that might work...
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I have a 2002 Toyota Solara SLE 6-cylinder 2-door coupe. 98,000 miles.
I have lots of white smoke at start up. Big time oil consumption. My wife drives car 14 mile round trip each day. Each night, I go out late and start car to burn off oil. There is no smoke in the morning when I do this.
People here have suggested the problem is valve stem seals. Not something I should try to fix myself. I did change the pcv valve.
I took car to mechanic. Told him it might be valve stems. He said he'd have to do the heads. Sounded like it would be expensive.
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I'm having this issue with my 2002 camry, but it won't start, so i can take it to a mechanic, and a house call is too expensive.
The car starts at almost 3000 rpm for a few seconds then white smoke starts coming out of the front and back... the front seems to be from the front catalytic converter . Then the car starts stalling and finally shuts off
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I have a 2002 Toyota camry that smokes on cold starts. No oil is being consumed because I check frequently. What could be causing this white smoke which lasts about 10-15 seconds?
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I have a 2002 Toyota Highlander 6 cyl, 148,000 miles. I get a cloud of white smoke from the tailpipe upon starting a cold engine. Smokes for about 1-2 minutes, then smoke stops.
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My 2.0L Jetta had an intermittent misfire, only at idle. I took it in to the shop, and they fixed a vacuum leak and replaced the plugs. The car drove home fine, but the next morning it was misfiring at all speeds. When it got back to the shop, they said that the coil pack was bad. I wonder if they might have done something to cause the pack to fail, since it seemed to be working fine before I took it in. Their explanation was that the coil had become accustomed to sparking at an adjusted (more powerful) setting to account for the vacuum leak, and when it tried to go back to the factory setting, it quit working. Also, all of the stress from running at a higher output wore it out.
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A while back, I bought some aftermarket rims for my '15 Golf to replace the sad 15" 195-section tires that came stock, and got 17 Sparco Pro Corsa rims with BF Goodrich gforce comp-2 all seasons.It drove great for a few weeks, (beautifully, even). Then I hit the mother of all potholes. My stomach sank the moment I ran over this product of poor infrastructure management. Little did I know I would be cursing this moment for months to come.The next day was when the vibration started. At this point, it started at 50 mph or so, and just got worse on the highway. I had to get 2 new rims on the right side, and the people at AAA said it was fine. It wasn't fine. Really, it wasn't any better.
So I took it back, and advised that I replace the two tires, because it was highly likely they had slipped belts from the impact. A couple more hundred dollars later, it was... a little better. But it wasn't back to normal. By this point I was done with AAA, and went to the dealer. They noticed that one of the spacers was installed crooked. Great. They fixed that, and didn't notice anything wrong until the next time I went on the interstate, when I noticed that, indeed, it still was vibrating. This time, however, it was just above 65 mph.This is where I should describe the vibration in greater detail. From 0 to 65, nothing is wrong.
But as soon as I hit 65, the steering wheel shimmys and the car whole car lightly shakes. It goes in and out, like it is being occasionally canceled out, and is not throtttle, braking, or turning sensitive.Back to the dealer it was, and of course, they could not find the root of my frustration. They did put the stock wheels on, and the vibration stopped. With the aftermarket ones, it still did vibrate, even with a rotation, balancing, alignment, et cetera.So, the question is: what the heck is going on? How can this be A) diagnosed and B) fixed without getting new wheels/tires or renting a chassis dyno?
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my 2002 7.3 with 370k just started to puff a small cloud of white smoke on start up. i realize this is normal during cold months but it is currently 102* in Texas. it will do it on the first start up of the day or if i start it immediately after shutting it off at full operating temps and when i do get a smell of the white cloud it has a oil smell but this only lasts while the cloud is dispersing all of that only lasts about 2-3 seconds no loss of power good boost pressure when driving no rough idle at all nothing acting any different other than the cloud and the quick smell of oil...
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I have a 2002 f250 powerstroke 7.3, while driving it smokes pure white smoke and feels like its loading up and will start shaking if I floor it, it will rev slowly popping like its loaded up then cleans out runs good for a 1/4 mile than same thing. My temp gauge stopped working and it just seemed to get worse. Stuck it on a scanner and it didn't have any codes but was saying the engine temp was -211f. I got a new sending unit didin't fix any of the problems.
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My beloved excursion is 300 miles away from me in a no start condition. Vehicle has 270K miles. Very well cared for. No issues to date since purchase 5 years ago. Went to back up and the vehicle starting Caming like it had a big cam in it. went from reverse to drive and problem went away. Drove vehicle for 2 more weeks without issue. Then all of a sudden it dies. Restart driver on down the road 1/4 mile, dies again. Restart, make 45 mile drive home vehicle is low on power will hardly pull a grade but I got to my friends house. Went to start vehicle next day and no start. Puff white smoke while trying to start. It hits every once in awhile but wont run.
The vehicle is throwing NO CODES other than an open glow plug on 1&8 which it has for sometime now. I have changed, fuel filter, fuel pump, CPS(genuine ford), IPR and IPS. No real changes still wont start. I disconnected the IPS and it started but it sounded like it was only running on a couple of cylinders. It would not accept throttle. The local Forddealer does not have a Ford diesel tech. Ive called a couple of diesel shops and I hear could be a bad HPOP, or bad ECM or a bad IDM but without seeing it. I am at my wits end with this thing. I am an electronic engineer by background. So I have a good sense of the process. I have checked all fuses, relays, etc. I will say I did have one issue with it a year ago where the UVC problem popped up but the dealer fixed it and it has been fine ever since.
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Just bought a 02 f-250 7.3 with 115k miles. A couple days after I bought it I noticed a lot of white smoke on cold starts for about 20-30 sec at 50 degree temperature. So I tested the GPR which ended up being bad a replaced with the one that is double in size(name escapes me atm) and also did the 50 cent mod to keep the through-valve cover harness from losing connection since both sides were lose.
After that the temp warmed back up and it would only blow a "puff" of white smoke. The past two days it has gotten down to 30-32 and the truck has a rough time starting. Cranks fine but it's almost like it's getting choked or flooded then it will blow smoke for 3-4 minutes after it starts. The truck does have a FASS fuel system on it with stock injectors. Should I try to Ohm out the glow plugs again or where should I start trouble shooting?
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I have white smoke pouring out of my exhaust in my 2001 Jetta1.8t , it happens at idle and then a lot at acceleration. The smoke is white and everyone and a while it has a hint of blue. I don't know what is wrong but what do yall think could be happeneing?
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I started my car up this morning for work and I noticed it sounded a little different almost like a little more gurgle then usual. I walked behind the car and saw white smoke coming from the left exhaust. The smoke wasn't incredibly white like a cloud but was definitely noticeable i think it smelt like gas or oil I'm not sure (stuffy nose got me some allergies) . After about 10 ish seconds everything was back to normal. What could this be if anything? Hopefully nothing tho.
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Its a 2001 jetta vr6, 5 speed, electronic seats all leather with wood trim panels, and I am having quite the issue. When you turn on the car it has a rough idle around 600rpm but doesn't die out. it smokes like a banshee, white smoke. if you come back later and start it, no smoke until you give it gas. some times it doesn't smoke at all. misfire cyl 6 and 5, used to have 4 misfires but spark plugs did me justice, maf sensor low voltage output, bank 1 sensor 2 02 something or another, when i first got it, it would just chug and not smoke at all. the better its running, the more smokes it produces it seems. none of my coils have the rubber graumet around them anymore and all seem to be pretty shot regardless. I have no leaks underneath the car, coolant has no oil mixture in it all all, no visible leaks on the headgasket, and most of the time the smoke smells like gas, but its purely white. I am just wondering what could cause it, im trying to feel out more options before getting drunk and doing a headgasket. no oil loss, no coolant loss.
[URL] .....
video of the smoke.
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I was driving my 2004 Jetta Tdi manual the other day and everything was fine. I stopped at a stop sign and began to go when suddenly i lost power like I was out of fuel only that was not the case. I looked behind me and saw lots of white smoke puffing behind me. I pulled over immediately and checked the oil (a little low), air filter (still pretty and white), coolant (clean and clear). I added a little oil and drove home very slowly and kept the RPMs as low as possible. There was no engine noise that I could tell.
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2002 5.4L XLT. Just want to upgrade the exhaust on a budget to get better mpg. Pretty settled on a Flowmaster 40 swapped in, no fancy pipes or tips or anything. Just wanted to know how the interior drone was at highway speeds (75-80). I drive 15-20 min of highway to/from work give or take if I get off and take back roads home.
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