Golf - Volkswagen :: 2002 - No Start When Key Is Turned / Get All Dash Lights
Oct 18, 2016
2002 Golf TDI . I am having a no start problem. I get all of the dash lights, the battery is fine, and there is just nothing when the key is turned. Our 2002 Golf TDI, now, of course, almost 15 years old. The dealership detects nothing through a computer read, and I'm down to the starter, relay and neutral switch as possibilities. The battery is just 3 years old, and we are at just 68K.
Can a neutral switch be tested for proper operation? Can the electrical system by tested for a starter motor or relay fault? The dealership maintains I need to await failure before they can do anything. We've had previous VW electrical problems w/this car - several dead batteries, complete on-board computer failure after having the car several months, way back when, and that part has been fine since then. I sold my last VW, a 1974 Karmann-Ghia Coupe, a few years ago, and these under-the-hood diesel setups are beyond me.
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My .:R will not start/ stay running. I just put my turbo back on. It ran great when I pulled the turbo off to get it rebuilt. When I first started the .:R, it fired right up and ran okay. About a minute later it shut off like I turned off the key. I went to restart and all I got was cracking but no start. I checked everything over and tried again. It started but shut off about 30 seconds later. After that I couldn't get it to start just cracking. I gave up for a few hour to gather my thoughts. I went back and no start again.
So I disconnected the battery for a few minutes and tried again. It started but shut right off after a minute and wouldn't restart. So I disconnected the battery and tried again. It started again, so I revved the motor to about 3500 rpm and let it sit there and about a minute it shut off like I turned off the key. NOTE: All the dash light stayed on like the key is on but the engine acts like the key was turned off. The ECS light stays on the when the engine is running or not.
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I have a 2002 Accent...Won't start....When I turn the key on...none of the idiot lights come on...It will turn over like crazy...but nothing....Have checked all fuses and relays... Then all of a sudden the lights will all come on and it starts...ran it for awhile drove it around a bit...shut it off...then tried to restart and it did...ok then 2 days later went to start it..and same thing...No idiot lights came on....and of course will not start..Someone mentioned to me it might be the ignition switch itself that might be causing the problem?
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I have a 2002 Subaru Outback Wagon. In May this year the OEM battery finally wore out, I was feeling poor so I bought a used battery from the local auto parts store. 2 months later, one day my car started chugging like it was having trouble starting and sounded like the battery was dying but then did start. Later that day it wouldn't start at all. Wouldn't turn over at all, but dash lights came on with key turn. Tried to jump it, wouldn't jump start. I bought a refurbed starter, had it put it, car starts.
A week later the same thing happened. Won't jump, no turn over, dash lights on when key turn. Had the battery tested, it was "good". Had the starter pulled, it was bad, put another refurbed starter in. Also replaced cables to the battery, and the clamp things that go on the cables to the battery. A week later, same thing, won't turn over, dash lights on with key turn. I was in the Costco parking lot when it happened this time, and got the tire mechanic to try to jump it. It jumped but was chugging like crazy and smoke came out of somewhere. The mechanic said he really thought it was a bad battery, that it sounded like the motor was trying to run off the alternator. I bought a new battery from Costco, and returned the used one to the parts store. When the used one was taken out, the mechanic said he could smell battery acid and it might have had a bad cell.
Now, the car will start when the engine is cold, but when I drive somewhere and it gets nice and hot (I live in Florida), it will not start again unless it is completely cold, or I get a jump. At least it will jump start now without a problem. I have had a mechanic use his little tool to check for computer codes, and of course there are none. I need to solve it not starting at all unless it is stone cold. My question is, what do you think is wrong?
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Bought a 02 F250 5.4L a few weeks ago. i have replaced the coils and plugs, put in some fresh oil and some other minor things. Last weekend i drove over to my neighbors and back with no issues, until i went back out to start the truck an hour later.
The dash lights come on, but the engine wont start up. i hear a kind of whirring sound coming from a black canister under the hood on the drivers side. I cant use my code reader and I have pretty much exhausted my little piece of diagnostic knowledge. i originally thought it may have been a starter and got a fresh one ready to install but after thing about it i don't feel that's the issue.
I live in a very rural area and bringing it to a dealership would be a 150 mile round trip. What that black canister is? Why it won't start up?
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My R ran just fine two days ago. I went out to start it this morning and I get all crank. No turn over not even a pop. Now, it is 3 degrees outside right now. I've started my car many times in the cold with no issue. Weird thing is all of the lights on the gauge cluster all flash at the same time. I have a code for a secondary o2 but that obviously is not the case. And yes the fuel pump did prime when I opened the door.
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I have an 02 2.0L Jetta which has started to die when slowing down or stopped. So kind of scary when you have a line of cars waiting behind you at a stop light. It only started this past Sunday and has happened 6 times since then (3 of times yesterday). All the indicator lights on the dash flash and it settles to the CEL, ABS, Bat and Seat belt light (like when you start you car, but don't turn it all the way to engage the starter). The clock and tripmeter reset. everything starts back normally when I put it back to park, turn completely off and back on.It seems like it should be an electrical problem but I'm not sure where to start, the battery and the fuses seem to have a good connection. I don't think its the alternator since the battery is staying charged too.
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I stored my car with a friend for a few months and of course he let it sit too long. He had to do a running start and now the dash lights are a penalty. I'm still out of town, but I am getting on a airplane right now to come home and be with my R again. He said the car was cutting of at stop lights, I'm sure he drove it cold.
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I have a Mk4 1.8t , I left a light on and near killed the battery one night , was parked on a hill so I let it roll start.( I know this is where I went wrong so lets get past it....) It started in what sounds like some type of limp mode, dim dash lights and about 300-400rpm. cruised at about 10mph for say a 1/4 mile before the engine returned to normal rpm and lights returned to proper brightness.. now the car has a problem I cant seem to put my finger on. When it gets to about 3000rpms it bucks and begins to throw multi misfire codes making it hard to even get to 30mph.
It reminds me of how it felt when all the coils started failing but I know it cant be that because its all new , (plugs ,coils,) I have also replaced a few other easy parts such as the n75 and the diversion valve next to it, as well as the fuel pump and filter. One thing I noticed when I leave my n75 unplugged (wide open) it seems to run better making it easier to drive but if I go anywhere past 1/4 throttle it bucks and struggles. I've used the Autel to scan it for other codes but the only thing I get is random multi mis codes and mis codes for each individual cylinder.
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Have a 2001 Prizm with 120k miles on it. Just had the recommended 120k service done a month or two ago (local shop that has been reliable to me) and they commented on how mechanically solid my car was.
Thursday drove to work like normal. When it was time to leave, car wouldn't start. No dash lights, nothing at all when I turned the key. Got a ride, came back later that night and jumped it and it started right up (didn't wait at all, but I also didn't check it before hooking up the cables - it might have started without a jump). Radio had reset and so forth, but it was running.
Drove Friday, it was fine. Car sat all weekend. Monday morning, dead as could be again. No dash lights when I put the key in, nothing when I turned it. Maybe a single click, but nothing more (can't remember for sure).
Drove wife's car to work. Came home Monday afternoon and the car started right up with no problem. Was curious if the battery voltage was low or anything, so I turned the car off, hooked up my bluetooth OBD reader (generic ELM 327 off ebay), and tried to start. Car was dead. Unplugged the reader, still nothing.
Took the battery out and ran to the store, assuming a bad or weak battery. They tested and said it's completely fine. Went back home, hooked it back up, car started right up. So now I'm suspecting something's up with the ELM327... I just got it last week, a few days before this all started. Had it hooked up all week long and didn't unplug it till the first time the car wouldn't start. Didn't plug it back in till Monday afternoon's issues.
Could a flaky OBD reader cause these kinds of issues? Anything else I should be checking, or do you think I'm ok as long as I toss out that reader? When I was using the reader last week, it seemed to be reading everything fine and sending the data over to my phone. When the car was dead each time, it acted like the battery was completely disconnected - radio reset, NO lights, etc. Could something with the OBD reader mess up the computer and make it act like that, and then a little time lets the computer reset or something?
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The cruise control and the overdrive off dash lights go out when I turn on the headlights. The cruse control and overdrive still work but the dash lights are not lit. It is a 95 4door explorer.
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I have an '06 Prius with ~170k miles on it. I bought an extended warranty, and it's scheduled for diagnostics for an AC issue next week. However, I was driving my wife to work when this happened ...
Cruise Control shut off, but the car handled just fine. We weren't far from our destination, so I got her there, parked it, and shut it off. I powered it back on after a minute or two, and only the check engine light came on.
I haven't checked the fuses yet (too dark and too high traffic where I am), and I'm not the most knowledgeable when it comes to cars.
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I have a 1985 Cutlass Ciera Brougham with the 2.5L four cylinder. It was driving and running great, and then one day it would not start. At first I thought that it might be the battery. I put my jump battery on and still nothing. I checked the battery voltage and it was good. Then I thought that it might be the starter. I crawled under the car and pulled the starter out. I took it to the store where I bought it just a year ago and had it tested, it passed. When the key is turned on all of the lights on the dash light up and the only sound that is heard is the fuel relay clicking on. The starter does not spin, click, hum, engage or make any indication that it is getting power. I put a wrench to the harmonic balancer bolt and I am able to spin the engine freely, so the engine is not seized. When the poles on the starter are jumped via a screwdriver the engine will crank, but will not start. Could a neutral safety switch or ignition switch that has gone bad cause such symptoms?
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Vehicle: 1983 chevy c10
Here's the problem, when the high beams are on the dash cluster lights work fine,but when I turn the high beams off the dash cluster lights go off.Im going to buy a new high beam switch but what else might cause this problem?The truck has one of those metal button high beam switches that is mounted on the floor.
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After I turn the car off the "PARK" light in the Dash stays lit for about 6 seconds after all the other lights have turned off. Is this normal?
I will advise, I have the parking brake set to auto and the car seems to be functioning normally.
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I recently installed a new car stereo in my 05 CRV to replace the factory unit which had a broken CD player. Everything appeared to go fine, but I noticed at night that when the Head Light switch was turned on, only the top half of the dash lights would turn on, the lights for the AC/Heater failed to light, and the PRNDD1D2 lights which work fine in the day (sans the drive light not working, but that's been the case for a year now) would turn off. I've checked the fuses and found no blown ones, although the fact that the top half of the dash lights still turn on made a blown fuse seem less likely.
The lights that are left on will still dim/brighten when the dimmer knob is turned, and I noticed that if I pull the small lights fuse the dash lights don't work, but the PRNDD1D2 lights remain lit even with the headlights on. I've tried removing and re installing the factory stereo to see if there was a short in the new wiring harness, but that changed nothing. As is the car is still drivable, as the top half of the dash lights is enough to make all the gauges readable, but it's still a bit annoying. Any clues as to what I've done, and is there a reasonably cheap fix to the problem?
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I've got a 2002 Jetta TDI that's been playing stump the mechanic for the past two weeks. I've had about $800 worth of work (most of which had error codes and were necessary), but given that the next suggestion is to replace the fuel pump at a cost of ~$2k, I figured it was time to get some additional opinions.
When the car is completely cold, the engine typically turns over a few times before starting up. Sometimes a few turns into seven or eight, but I've never had it not start. The problem comes when I've driven it somewhere (like to the grocery store, yoga class, or to get gas, to name a few) and try to restart it after my task is done. The warmer the engine, the lower the chance it will start. In it's most extreme, the car will not start at all, and I have had it stall out on me at stoplights if I do manage to get it started.
The car has had a history of intermittent hard starts in the four years I've had it, but nothing at all like this.
In the past two weeks, my mechanic has replaced the coolant temperature sensor, thermostat and seal ring, serpentine belt tensioner and serpentine belt, power supply relay, fuel pressure regulator and seal rings and the crank sensor. They've also been able to see that something is off about the fuel pump since they can see air bubbles in the fuel line, but thought I could push the car for a while without having to replace the pump.
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2002 vw Passat GLX 4motion... Car has been driving fine with no issues. Then out of the blue it just won't start back up. Battery is 6 months old. And wouldn't start with a jump. I think it is a completely different issue. The power windows stopped working but other features do work like stereo power seats interior lights...Main problem is no lights on dash whatsoever. But when key turns from accessories position to starting position nothing happens. No clicking, no resistance between positions it is as if the ignition is just missing..?
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This morning as soon as I started the car, the speedometer dash turned completely scrambled and the rest of the lights keep blinking/flashing. The car does turn on and drive. Upon drive the Maint Reqd and Low temp icons keep flashing. I think I smell something burning as well but I not sure.
In the video below you can see the scrambling. Occasionally it will just turn off. I tried the battery disconnect but did not work. I definitely think something is burning around dash but cannot be sure.
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I recently purchased a used 2006 Volkswagen GTI Turbo with MT as my very first car from a used car lot in town. Not from an authorized Volkswagen Dealer.
Anyway, Friday I detailed my car, I washed dried etc. When I started the engine, the Bulb Failure indicator light came on, and in the MFD it said that the Rear Left Turn Signal Not Working so I went to auto zone and purchased new bulbs for it. Then the next day, I started the engine and the Bulb Failure Indicator Light came on again. This time the Rear Right Brake Light Not Working message was displayed. This time I took it to my car dealer. They replaced it free of charge. So then yesterday, I went inside my house but forgot to lock the car, so I went to my door where i could see the driver's side rear view mirror and hit the lock button.
I can't hear the horn from inside the house so I rely on the blink of the lights. It did not flash so I went out side thinking I was too far but I wasn't, it turns out that the turn signal on the driver's side went out as well. Come to find out I have to buy a whole new mirror for what ever reason. I think that it sounded about right but I wanted more options. I looked at it and there appears to be moisture inside of it. When I started my car a few seconds ago the Bulb Failure indicator light came on and the MFD read Rear Right Turn Signal Not Working. I can only come up with two possible problems,
1. It's just a coincidence or
2. I have a problem with the electrical system. I don't know what else to do beside replacing mirrors and light bulbs.
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So one of my headlights turned purple, and I get an "light" signal on the dash. It still lights up but it's purple. I have 23,000 miles on the car and I have had it for 1 year and 4 months. Also, should I get both light replaced.
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