Golf - Volkswagen :: 1999 - Stuttering Over 55mph
Nov 28, 2011
I own a 1999 VW Golf with 136+ thousand miles. We drive it mostly on surface streets and it runs fine. However, this past holiday we hopped on the expressway and as soon as we got above 55mph it started to stutter. It felt almost as if the spark plugs were misfiring. I've since given the spark plugs a once over and they look fine but I'm due for a tune up soon anyway and i intend to replace them. I can't feeling though that if the plugs are the problem, the car would be stuttering regardless of speed.
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I have a 2002 SD 4WD auto trans extended cab/short bed (92K miles). Run 55psi front and 70 psi rear per door placard. Recently started getting a vibration when cruising at 45MPH and to a lesser extent at 55MPH. I was due for new tires so I got Hercules which where balanced and also had the alignment checked (no problems.) Vibration has subsided greatly but still does it at 45MPH. A little faster or slower and it goes away. I checked the u-joints on the (one-piece) driveshaft and they seem tight. I do not feel any vibration in the steering wheel but really cannot tell if it is coming from the front or the rear.
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I have a 99 VW Golf Wolsburg that I bought used a few years ago. I can't figure out what else I need to do to keep it running. I have done the following: oil changes, replaced spark plugs and wires, replaced crank shaft position sensor, replaced muffler, replaced distributor cap, ignition rotor, made repairs to coolant flange, and replaced the fuel pump wire conections. It has stalled out on me while driving and then won't start, leaving me stranded and having to be towed. Sometimes I come back to it and its just fine, and then does it again at a later time. Usually the CEL code is P0304/P0341. After another trip to the mechanic the CEL came on again with P0341.Now what?
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So I have been APR K04 for about 3500 miles and recently noticed that when its cold in the am and my car is not yet warmed up if I give it a little gas in 1st through 3rd between 2k and 4k there is almost like a stuttering i can feel the car surge a little. my first thought is the tune is responsible, my second thought is that perhaps a coil pack has gone bad (although no CEL).
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I recently bought a 1999 VW Lupo (essentially a two door Golf) with 30000 miles on it. My mechanic suspects it sat idle for a long time. Recently the check engine light went on, warning of a faulty idle regulator. What effect would you expect to see as a result ?
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I test drove a R32 today and had a question about a throttle hiccup. I tried searching but didn't come up with much...
I drove about 5 miles in traffic at 35-45 mph, eventually traffic cleared out, and the speed limit bumped up to 55. While accelerating from 40-55, probably half throttle opening, the cel started flashing and the engine began to stutter. I stopped the car, turned it off, and it started back up fine. On the way back, the situation repeated, but simply letting off the gas stopped it, and the cel stopped flashing.
Relevant info: 35 degrees F, 55k mileage, car behaved fine under small throttle openings. My best guess is the air flow or o2 sensors are gummed up from sitting at the dealership, but they're supposed to look at it and call me tomorrow. Does this sound like a common thing?
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I have an APR Stage 1 flash done about 3 months ago and I absolutely love it and never had any issues.
I always leave my car in program two which is the 93 octane. I was driving home yesterday and when I was in the higher gears and accelerating in like 3rd or 4th and got the rpms up to 3500 to 4000 the car would stutter pretty hard. At one point it stuttered like 3 times in a row and then the check engine light blinked about 10 times and went away. When I got home I put the car back into stock mode and tried the same thing, but it ran smoothly with no issues.
Experienced this with the APR stage one flash. I'm thinking maybe it could be bad gas or the program didn't get set correctly, but not sure. I am going to put it back into the 93 program today and see if it still does the same thing.
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I bought a cheap golf in february. It's an akl engine (1.6sr). Everything was fine on the way home. The car then wasn't used for like a month or two, and was stored outside. When we started using the car it gradually got more and more stuttering. At first it was just a slight stutter when accelerating, but now it's horrible. It will stutter and hesitate like crazy when accelerating or under load, but will cruise just fine at normal rpms. So far I have changed the air filter, fuel filter, spark plugs and a bad spark plug wire, but nothing has worked. I bought a vag scanner but couldn't find any codes. The idle isn't too bad but not perfect. What the problem can be?
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1.6 FSI .. Very long story short, the engine is running like crap, idle is jumping up and down. Almost no power, its stuttering and so on and so on. Well I talked to a mechanic and he found out the problem, a throttle vacuum. (kinda like choke) he explained it as.
The part was ordered, and arrived. Me and my dad tried changing it and we met some struggles. After looking at it closely and trying different things we kinda gave up.
Here is the part that is broken, it adjusts the amount of fuel when its cold vs. hot
We concluded we needed to take the whole intake to access it ?
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I'm getting used to just expecting a problem with this car every 3 months or so. Anyway, I have a 2004 1.8T GLI which lately has been idling and then stutters and dies. The first time it happened it turned right back over and started driving. So I drove it home and cleaned up the battery terminals and it didn't seem to have a problem since. Now about a month later I was just parked and turned it over.
It was on for about 1 second and then it stuttered and died. I can hear the starter engaging and turning the engine, but it won't turn over. I also checked the battery levels and its showing 12v so I don't think it's electrical? From scanning forums here it seems like the two prime suspects are spark plugs or the fuel pump?
Also checked the fuses and none are burnt. I could see it being the fuel pump because that would explain it randomly stuttering and dying. Also the car is at 149k miles and that is the original pump. Wondering if maybe it being at 1/4 tank isn't working either? Going out to buy a vagcom and see what codes it throws!
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Recently the car was stuttering under hard acceleration and battery voltage dropped, I have a batt gauge. Got harness replaced and symptoms are gone but this must be happening to others with or without symptoms.
Check your fuse box on top of the battery. The alternator harness wire turns silver after many years of use. Your battery volts will drop also and you can see it with a gauge. I changed this harness and symptoms went away. It's the thick gauge wire all the way to the left. This needs to be changed with a new alternator. Many people prob don't know their harness is causing high resistance affecting the quality of smoothness.
The hotter the car gets the worse it gets if you have this issue. More RPMS, is more electricity and more resistance. There is no CEL for this. The harness should be copper colored, if it turns silver it's old and needs to be swapped. If you drive low Rpms all the time you won't notice. But it's an R, who does this?
The harness is around $90 and car has to be in service mode to get to the alternator. This is my 2nd alternator and kept my original harness when replaced, bad idea.
It takes under 20 seconds to pop the hood and open the fuse box to see what color your harness cable is. I expect most to be silver not copper, but whether you have symptoms or not depends on severity.
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So last night i was having some fun doing a wot pull from 2-5th and bam misfire p0301 code for cylinder 1. During the pulls i felt and noticed slight hesitation/stuttering around 5500-6100 rpms. When i let off it felt like cylinder1 was totally dead. Had a flashing cel + epc light come on, so i pull over turn the car off and now it won start. When you go to start it, it just continues to turn over, doesn't even sound like it's attempting to fire up. Feels like it doesn't have compression. There wasn't any loud out of the ordinary noise when this happened, other than the obvious misfire.
I had changed the coilpacks to the r8 red tops, and swapped out my plugs about 8k miles ago, so i doubt it's them. Did the HPFP around 15k miles ago, so i doubt it's that, plus i smell fuel while turning it over. If i had to guess i screwed up a valve. Maybe an injector best case scenario, but i dont think so. At the dealer now waiting to hear back from them sometime next week.
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The truck. 2005 super d 6.0l. 200,000 miles
The problem. After start and warmup, and then a couple of miles driving, I make a slow 90 degree turn after a stop sign. The wheel in my grip seems to go stupid for a very short time. It responds by jerking and kind of stuttering. Yet it does this only once per trip. Also it does not do this every trip. Just sometimes. After the stutter the steering is Normal. There is no vibration at speed, and no wander from side to side. Everything seems solid and straight.
So what's going on? Should I start by draining the reservoir with a hose and refilling, repeat repeat, to "flush out old fluid". Or is my pump or steering box headed for a fail. Maybe hubs or knuckle joints.
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I just bought my first truck ever, ended up with a 2002 F250 SuperDuty V8 5.4. I'm fairly handy with vehicles but can't seem to figure out the issues I'm having. I searched the threads and have tried a number of this solutions, but to no avail.
1) The truck runs smooth above roughly 1700 RPM, but between 1300&1700 there is a distinct stutter and shaking of the entire truck. Although the check engine light does not come on the Scanner indicates a misfire in cylinder #3 and I've replace the plugs and coil, but it's still there. Fuel filter has been recently replaced and seafoam run thru the tank and vacuum line. The mechanic at the local mom & pop shop said it is most likely a damaged valve in #3. Am I missing anything? Do you think a valve job is necessary?
2) When I got out of the truck tonight the radio stayed on, I tried the WD-40 fix (no luck), additionally checked the fuses (all in proper condition). Not sure if this relates but the auto door locks started acting up as well and the door ajar light stays on all the time. I saw a post about a "VSM" but what or where that is.
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My 2005 Camry XLE 3.0 V6 is exhibiting engine jerkiness over 55MPH. The OBD II reader shows a group of codes:
0300 Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire
0301 Cylinder 1 Misfire detected
0303 Cylinder 3 Misfire detected
0171 System Too Lean Bank 1
2195 Sensor Signal Stuck Lean bank 1 sensor 1
From what I can find in the forum I cant quite tell whether I should be looking at bad gas, overfill of oil, vacuum leak or bad O2 sensor (the expensive one before the cat).
Changing the gas or checking the oil is easy enough. where would one look for the vacuum leak that would cause this type of problem? Is getting the O2 sensor out of the upper bank as much of a beast as it sounds in some of the threads (better left to a "real" mechanic?).
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I recently purchased 4 brand new michelin tires. They are approximately 3 months old now. Beginning a couple weeks ago, my car started shaking profusely at 60mph when accelerating. When I let off the gas, it would stop. I went and got a tire balance thinking that was the problem... but it's still happening, and now it starts at about 55mph. I have no clicking sounds when turning the wheel, and my car runs great besides this! What this could be?
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I have a 1996 Chevy Tahoe (5.7L, 185k miles) that I think is misfiring. What typically happens is a shuddering at about 50-55mph while in 4th gear (though to a lesser degree, it will shudder at speeds above that too) and lightly accelerating or keeping speed on a small incline (~5-10% grade). During this time, there is no change on the tach. My check engine light is not on. Spark plugs and wires are new. The problem occurs while using 93 octane fuel. The shuddering is never noticeable in gears 1, 2 or 3, and is not noticeable at full throttle. I replaced the fuel pump about 6 years ago.
I brought it to the transmission shop, but was told that isn't where the problem lies. Second, I took it to a mechanic. He told me that he couldn't pin-point the cylinder, as there were no codes to unveil the problem.
My question is what are the causes I should look for, and how can I address them short of an engine overhaul? I recently read for the first time about Seafoam, and I'm intrigued.
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Like I said, 04 cavalier automatic.. Bought it used over 200thousand miles, but in PERFECT SHAPE, engine is beautiful.. No leaks that I could tell from the ground. Just put on new rotors & breaks,.. Now the problem.. under neath my petals sounds like doo doo doo doo, like a really big fan, & Its hard to accelerate at 35-55mph.. When i do it has to like catch up with itself, as if not going into 2nd gear.
I know nothing about cars, so I am describing the best i can.. Its also been sucking gas like crazy.. but no leaks? All my lights are lit up.. ABS trac off, service, & check engine. One guy said the noise is someone impacted on my aluminum rims too tight & they could be bent, it was very hard for him to get my tire off to change rotors..
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2004 Saturn Vue, V6 AWD with 138K miles. In the last 8 months I have had the struts rebuilt, all brake components replaced (everything), front axles replaced, anti-sway bar bushings replaced, front end alignment, replaced wheels and tires and front wheel bearings, replaced two broken motor mounts, removed defective main drive shaft, all to eliminate the vibration that begins at speeds approaching highway speeds.
The problem has not gone away but is much improved with the new axles and motor mounts. Sheering shaft was replaced 7 years ago.
The GM dealer refuses to look at it until I replace the drive shaft, which the car doesn't need to drive.
I have had it to suspension specialists and a dozen mechanics and we are all at a loss.
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I have a 02 mit. lancer.. I will be going down the highway at 55mph and all the sudden my car's transmission shift down a gear. (maybe 2) it is an awful jolt to the car and me. From then on it is stuck in that gear. Even when i stop at a stop sign it will not shift. if I shut the car off and turn it back on then its fine. It may be fine for a mile or a hundred. Not sure if it is a transmission problem or a computer problem.
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I just purchased a 2008 Toyota Yaris. The car is excellent with only one exception. When above 55mph, I hear a pulsing noise - a constant evenly spaced noise similar to an engine that is lightly revving on and off. If I take my foot off the gas, it goes away. Press again while I'm above 55mph, and it pulses again. I have no loss of acceleration, no bucking, and the rpm gauge is steady as she goes. It is an automatic. No noises or anything under 55mph. I'm perplexed.
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