Golf - Volkswagen :: 1997 - Beeping Start When Car Gets To Its Optimal Temperature
Nov 13, 2011
So I was given this car as a gift around march of last year and it had 150k+ miles on it. The week I got it there was an oil leak, that was caused by a damaged oil filter. So when it happened the car was beeping. I took it to a mechanic, and he "fixed" it. However, ever since then when the car gets to it's optimal temperature it starts beeping. Whenever I accelerate and rev the engine it stops beeping (ex: when I'm on the freeway no beeping; in the city with tons of stops = lots of beeping). It is annoying and it's gotten to the point where I am embarrassed to give people rides in my car.
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I drive a 2000 VW Golf with 148K miles on it. One Saturday this summer my brake indicator light started lighting and beeping intermittently as I was driving. My brakes were operating fine so I did not read my owners manual until I reached my home. It indicated that I needed to have a qualified mechanic check it immediately but as it was almost 4 o'clock in the afternoon I couldn't find a mechanic in any gas station or garage. As I had a 200 mile drive to do the next day, I purchased brake fluid and carefully followed all of the directions for checking and filling my brake fluid.
However, when I took the cap off of the reservoir, the reservoir really looked fine and I was only able to add about a teaspoon max of brake fluid. However, when I tried driving the car, it seemed that the problem was solved as the brake indicator light did not come on again. Approximately 3 months later now the brake indicator light is intermittently going on again: about every other day. It goes on and then shortly after it goes off and then it doesn't come on again for a day or two.
Inasmuch as I added such a small amount of brake fluid last time I'm really not sure that the problem is actually with the fluid. I wondered if perhaps it was more of a vacuum problem or that by opening the reservoir some air escaped or something of that nature. I also wonder if possibly there's a component that's giving a false reading. At any rate, I'm a little white-haired old lady and there's a limit to what I can do on my car myself and I'm also a target whenever I go into a shop to get the most expensive diagnosis and fix. I'd like to go in to a shop with good information so that it doesn't become an expensive fishing expedition. What could be causing this?
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I was driving my fiance to work this morning in my 2003 VW Beetle when the high temperature warning light came on and beeped. A little bit later the oil pressure light came on as well, but only for about 30 seconds and then shut off. We had been driving for about 15 minutes and were on the highway when this happened. There was no steam coming from the engine. We were right by where we needed to be so I pulled off the highway and into the office complex which was right off the highway and checked the coolant and oil levels. I just had the oil changed maybe two weeks ago and the oil level is fine. The coolant level looks perfectly fine as well.
I let the car sit for a while and then drove it back the two miles to get home. A few minutes after starting to drive the high temperature light came on again. Still no steam or anything but there was a slight burning smell after I stopped and went up to the front of the car. I'm not driving it until I get it fixed, whatever it is, but I don't really have much money to do anything until next week. What the problem might be? I've only had the car for about five months or so and it has just over 100 k miles. I don't think there is any kind of leak, because before I got my oil changed two weeks ago I got it changed somewhere else and they didn't tighten the oil filter enough and it was leaking oil.
So I took it to another place to get another oil change so they could fix the problem. I told them about the leak and they said they would check to make sure that it wasn't something else that was leaking and they didn't find any problems other than the oil filter. I have never had any issues with the car overheating either. And I don't know if it's just me being paranoid, but while I was checking the car out after I got home and it had been sitting for a few hours, I turned the engine on for a second and it seemed to be making a bit more noise than normal. Not really anything out of the ordinary, just regular engine noises, only louder.
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Air conditioning is serious as a heat stroke, so when my 2000 Beetle started blowing brittle pieces of foam from the A/C vents, moaning at stop lights, and refusing to cool, action was required. That was last summer, and I had the A/C "fixed" – new compressor (a dryer thingy had gone bad), a fresh charge of freon, and gloriously arctic air. There was still foam, but who cares as long as it’s cold? (I know the foam is disintegrating due to age, not rodents.) The shop told me they could fix the foam problem but that it would mean taking off the dash, could cost $900 in labor, and that not fixing it meant nothing worse than flying foam.
Now in the second summer, the air still blows cold but only sometimes, and it spits more foam than ever. When the air isn’t cold, if I twiddle all the knobs, especially the one that directs air from my face to my feet to the defrost and back, eventually the vents belch out more foam and give me cold air. This mainly works at 70+ mph. A recent development is that air blows on my toes as well as my face when I have the dial set for face-air-only. My tootsies love it, but I’m concerned that when all the foam breaks free I’ll have air coming from all vents at once, maybe hot, maybe cold.
So I have two questions:
(1) When all the foam has flown out the windows, will I have reliable temperature control?
(2) If the answer to 1 is no, would it be cheaper to sell my dear Sunshine to CarMax for a lesser price and let them dismantle the dash or pay the shop and keep driving her a while?
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My 95 vw golf wont start I've tried push starting and jumping. it runs fine. The alarm just started going off randomly. So I disabled it and hot wielder starter wires. It turns over but will not start.
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I have a 13 year-old VW with low mileage (about 87,000). I replaced the battery a couple of years ago, and once the compressor died I decided I could live without A/C since I live in Wisconsin. Last summer I went to turn it over, found the speed- and tachometers went a little haywire and the check engine light came on. After trying a few more times, the engine did start but then sputtered and gave out. I had the car towed, but by the time I got to a shop the tow driver said the check engine light was off and he was able to drive it into the garage.
The garage flushed the fuel line and checked the computer, all seemed fine. Then a few weeks later my wife said it wouldn't start (I was working out of town). By the time I returned it was clear the battery was dead, even the keyless entry and internal light didn't work. My father in law, who knows cars fairly well, thinks my alternator needs to be replaced. I'm now at the point with this car that if it needs major repair I might let it go. I'm having the car towed to a shop on Tuesday, they'll run a diagnostic and tell me what's needed to get it back up and running.
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2002 Golf TDI . I am having a no start problem. I get all of the dash lights, the battery is fine, and there is just nothing when the key is turned. Our 2002 Golf TDI, now, of course, almost 15 years old. The dealership detects nothing through a computer read, and I'm down to the starter, relay and neutral switch as possibilities. The battery is just 3 years old, and we are at just 68K.
Can a neutral switch be tested for proper operation? Can the electrical system by tested for a starter motor or relay fault? The dealership maintains I need to await failure before they can do anything. We've had previous VW electrical problems w/this car - several dead batteries, complete on-board computer failure after having the car several months, way back when, and that part has been fine since then. I sold my last VW, a 1974 Karmann-Ghia Coupe, a few years ago, and these under-the-hood diesel setups are beyond me.
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Assume a flat road at sea level, winds are calm, no precipitation and standard temperature and barometric pressure. What is the optimal speed to get the absolute best mpg out of a Gen III Prius ?
One poster mentioned 41 mph in passing but I have not seen any hard data and would very much like to know where the maximum efficiency point is...
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My wife says the 97 3.0 2wd has an intermittent beeping of various patterns and volumes. Slow beep, fast beep, continuous beep. Not the ding bell you hear when you leave the lights on. I've only heard it once. It was continuous low volume and it stopped before I could locate the source. It seems to happen on first start up but not all the time and goes away after a few miles. What it is and how to disable it?
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I got a 2000 f-150. today I started getting a low beeping noise coming from under the dash. it will beep or sound a few times then stop, then start again. What warning this is for? and there is no check engine light either.
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I've been using my GX to haul the family about 500 miles round trip between our primary home and our lake house. I've done the trip about 5 times now, the route has many elevation changes (hills) and it keeps becoming more apparent that the GX is not downshifting when I would like it.
1) At first, I was stomping down on the gas pedal, entering the uphill stretches, to force a downshift, most of the time it needs to seek all the way to third before it gains enough torque to maintain fast highway speeds (70-80). However, this stomp method results in gunning the engine and then letting off the pedal, not exactly the smoothest process and hard to stay in the power band around 3rd and 4th gears.
2) I finally figured out how to push the shifter to the left and manually shift between the gears myself. However, I have found the downshift from 5 to 4 rarely happens in a timely manner. I shift it over to 4, the light goes out on D but takes a long time to light up on 4, and it stays in 5th gear. I have to downshift all the way to third to get a response out of it, which is immediate.
3) Once I started manually downshifting to 3rd it made a GIANT different in performance of the vehicle over hills. 3rd and 4th gear have plenty of power to move the vehicle along without stomping on the gas pedal and provides a much smoother ride.
Noticed the poor performance of the transmission shift program. I know the 05+ have slightly more power , but this doesn't strike me as a power issue, just that the truck isn't downshifting for optimal performance.
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So on my way home from work, there is a dual lane, pretty long steady incline (fairly steep). The speed limit is 50, so I set my cruise to 50 going up. I noticed that the truck will not downshift but stay in 6th gear all the way up at around 1,200 rpm. It seemed a little low on the rpm's for how steep the hill is, so one day (about a week ago) I decided to use the "-" button of the select trans switch to make it go into 5th. RPM's go to ~ 2,000, and I immediately saw an increase in the green bar indicating the instant fuel mileage. I've repeated it every day since with the same result. So I get better mpg's manually shifting into 5th gear in that specific situation.
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What are the most and least optimal times to use cruise control at highway speeds?
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MY 2004 Prius is acting strange and wont start this morning. When I opened the door I got a beeping sound similar to the sound when you walk away with the key while the car is on. When I pressed power, the power seemed to only partially come on, the screen did not power on, and every warning light is on including the red triangle !. The car would not activate past that stage.
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I just bought little bit bumped Prius 2010. The bumper, Windshield, hood and left headlamp need to change. And three front airbags and belts.
But this is not problem, the problem when I start a car the horn is starting beeping. When car is not started it shows lock with keys icon on dashboard. When I start it, it shows only airbags problem, and starting beeping. Car run and drive without any visible problems.
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I've never had an issue with my 2010 Prius except for an occasional need to jump the battery after leaving a light on. Today after finding I left the interior light on, the car wouldn't start. I assumed the battery had drained, but then something strange happened. The car would not fully shut off. The starter button shows a red light and there is a loud continuous beeping sound even when the door is closed. Additonally, the car will not lock. When I foreceably locked the doors, they unlock right away. The yellow exclamation point warning light on the left side of the dash is on as is the malfunction indicator light that looks like an engine.
I tried to jump the 12volt battery through the charging port under the hood and got absolutely no response at all. And the continuous high pitched beep is still going after an hour.
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I own a 2007 Prius with around 35k miles on it. I got this car about a year and a half ago, and have ever since had a pretty frustrating problem.
Every so often when I park my car and open the door to leave, the car will start beeping incessantly, in the same way that it does if you've left a light on. The only indicators on inside the car are the little red car with the key, telling me that I am in fact sitting inside a car with my keys, and the emergency brake light.
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I had a hard brake from 45mph to 0 last week, now when I start the car or brake hardly, there is beep. What is wrong with it?
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My 2007 Accent will not start. It doesn't turn over. All it does is beep when I turn the key. It is a long high pitched beep, followed by three sets of two shorter beeps. The engine doesn't turn over at all. The dome light works, as does the radio and dash lights, so I don't think the battery is dead.
I'm wondering if its a starter problem, but the beeping must be some kind of error message, right?
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05 GTI 1.8t
Neuspeed chipped (yeah, bring the insults, car came with it, peaks 24psi so neener-neener!)
Other than that it's mechanically stock.
Last time I had the oil changed, I drove roughly 30 miles to work the following day. When I went to leave work the car beeped a few times, no lights went off. I pulled over and checked oil, it was a half quart low. Topped it off and didn't have a problem after.
Yesterday I had the oil changed, drove to work today and as I left I got that same beep. This time it looks like it's not low on oil. No lights went off, I pondered for a few minutes and took the streets home. No following light or signs of trouble.
What could be happening? My oil pressure sensor is relatively new, replaced it last year and I checked the connection today. I searched around but keep coming across common oil pressure threads. I'm planning to get an oil pressure gauge, guess I'll get one sooner than later for peace of mind.
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I have a 2003 Hyundai Elantra with about 96,0000 miles on it. A couple of days the car wouldn't start and I assumed the battery was dead. Also, every time I would turn the key, the alarm would do these short successive beeps. After AAA came to see about replacing the battery, he saw that the alarm would beep when the key was put in and told me the anti-theft system was preventing the car from starting, and that a new battery wouldn't fix it. At the time, the battery in the key fob was also dead but I got that fixed and the key fob is working.
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