My 95 vw golf wont start I've tried push starting and jumping. it runs fine. The alarm just started going off randomly. So I disabled it and hot wielder starter wires. It turns over but will not start.
View 4 RepliesMy friend is willing to lend me her Cabrio that she had let sit for about a year. I replaced the battery and tried to start it. The alarm went off (we lost the key-remote thingy) and it did not start. The lights all worked but once we tried to turn it over it just went Click-click. The alarm shut off once we disconnected the battery.
View 8 RepliesI have a '97 VW GTI. My battery died, I left the lights on, but when I went to get a jump, the minute the cables were connected, my car alarm went off. Fortunately, we cut the power and the alarm ate up what little juice was supplied, but my car would not turn over. We tried to pop the clutch to get it started, but nothing. What can I do?
View 3 Replies1995 vw Jetta 110K miles.. My car has a hard time starting in the mornings or when it sits idly for a while (when I park overnight) . On any bright and sunny day, it's like the car is brand new - starts with no problems at all. Tried several mechanics and none of them have been able to diagnose the problem. To make it simple, cold outside - car will not start, warm/hot outside car will start.
View 3 RepliesI got an automatic VW Golf 3 1995 75ps for my wife, Basically it was a gift, the car is in OK conditions, motor works very decent and for my own amusement the thing actually drives great! The only problem is in 3rd gear, the car change between gears clean and very tight, the problem is when the car accelerates the revolutions goes up buuuut the speed stays basically the same, until I put my foot out of the pedal and reaccelerate, then slowly it works fine but as soon as I put some power on it, it slip, very frustratingly BTW! There is no worrying noise, no smoke, no leak, I haven´t measure the ATF mainly because it is impossible in this car! It is supposed to stay closed forever! (?). My main question is if the ATF can be related with this issue or is it other component of the Transmission? Second question is if the ATF is not related then what can it be?
View 13 RepliesI'm a broke grad student with a 1995 Jetta. I've had it about four years, and it's mostly been all right. Granted, it's mostly held together with luck at this point--my dad's a former mechanic, and he did a fair bit of work on it before I moved a thousand miles away. The other day on my way to work, the car started bucking and shuddering, especially when I first started moving. I was very nearly out of gas, and I thought that might be the problem. I put some in and things got almost totally better almost immediately. Tonight, the car tries to start, but it won't catch. My dad thinks I have water in my tank. Would that do this?
View 5 RepliesThis just started today and when I turned off my car and removed the key from the ignition, the radio stayed on. Also, when I opened the door, the door chime came on as if the lights were still on and now I'm not able to lock the car or set the alarm using my key. I've read that some vw cars are wired so that the radio stays on after the car is turned off, but this has never been the case with my car. My main concern is battery drainage and being unable to lock and arm my alarm.
View 2 RepliesOver the last 2 days, I have a weird issue with my 2013 Forester. When I turn the car off and remove the key I get a beeping like the alarm system and lock system engaged but the doors do not lock nor is the alarm activated. The car and security system work fine. No burnt out head or taillight and doors are fully closed.
View 1 Replies2000 VW cabrio, and the car alarm has been going off and why? It has gone off in empty parking lots, and much to my neighbors annoyance, several times in the middle of the night. Other than unplugging the battery when I get home what can i do about my alarm?
View 2 RepliesRecently I changed a turn signal switch on my VW Jetta 1994, and it turned out the new switch had a faulty horn/airbag connection (just not springin out enough), such that power was not being relayed - I figured this out when the horn would not blow, and on inspection I realized that there was a gap between the connector on the top of the switch and the horn. At the same time I realized that my problem was the signal relay, and not the switch. So I changed back to my old signal switch. The horn is now fine, but I have the airbag alarm light on. I am cannot think of anything I did wrong. So I am wondering whether the light could be coming on because of the initial error when there was no connection where the airbag signal keeps coming on even after the repair error is corrected, or does the alarm indicate a current error rather than a lingering memory of the error I had initially?
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After I could not figure why I was having the alarm light I drove the car to a mechanic, explained my sleepless nights and many hours of problem analysis, and then the mechanic took his code reader, connected to the OBD car port, made a few clicks, and charged me $45 and then sent me off. The alarm light has not been back since - it blinks as expected when I start the car.
On my further research I have found that VW airbag light will come on if you check airbag with your ghetto OBD code reader - exactly what I had read! It registers "high resistance", and must be reset by someone with a qualified code reader!
I installed a remote start a while back. What I am struggling with is every other time or 3rd time I try to start it the horn goes off like a car alarm. Initially I was having a key issue and would get the immobilizer alert on the dash and It would fire and then shut off. Now if the horn starts going off all I do is hit the lock button and it stops after a couple honks and then starts like nothing happened.
View 2 RepliesI have a 13 year-old VW with low mileage (about 87,000). I replaced the battery a couple of years ago, and once the compressor died I decided I could live without A/C since I live in Wisconsin. Last summer I went to turn it over, found the speed- and tachometers went a little haywire and the check engine light came on. After trying a few more times, the engine did start but then sputtered and gave out. I had the car towed, but by the time I got to a shop the tow driver said the check engine light was off and he was able to drive it into the garage.
The garage flushed the fuel line and checked the computer, all seemed fine. Then a few weeks later my wife said it wouldn't start (I was working out of town). By the time I returned it was clear the battery was dead, even the keyless entry and internal light didn't work. My father in law, who knows cars fairly well, thinks my alternator needs to be replaced. I'm now at the point with this car that if it needs major repair I might let it go. I'm having the car towed to a shop on Tuesday, they'll run a diagnostic and tell me what's needed to get it back up and running.
Can a remote start system be installed on the factory alarm ?
View 11 RepliesSo I was given this car as a gift around march of last year and it had 150k+ miles on it. The week I got it there was an oil leak, that was caused by a damaged oil filter. So when it happened the car was beeping. I took it to a mechanic, and he "fixed" it. However, ever since then when the car gets to it's optimal temperature it starts beeping. Whenever I accelerate and rev the engine it stops beeping (ex: when I'm on the freeway no beeping; in the city with tons of stops = lots of beeping). It is annoying and it's gotten to the point where I am embarrassed to give people rides in my car.
View 6 Replies2002 Golf TDI . I am having a no start problem. I get all of the dash lights, the battery is fine, and there is just nothing when the key is turned. Our 2002 Golf TDI, now, of course, almost 15 years old. The dealership detects nothing through a computer read, and I'm down to the starter, relay and neutral switch as possibilities. The battery is just 3 years old, and we are at just 68K.
Can a neutral switch be tested for proper operation? Can the electrical system by tested for a starter motor or relay fault? The dealership maintains I need to await failure before they can do anything. We've had previous VW electrical problems w/this car - several dead batteries, complete on-board computer failure after having the car several months, way back when, and that part has been fine since then. I sold my last VW, a 1974 Karmann-Ghia Coupe, a few years ago, and these under-the-hood diesel setups are beyond me.
So I had my hood open to check my oil, not a big deal for a 2001 Jetta 1.8t. When I shut the hood, the car decided to simultaneously lock, and now the horn/alarm is going off and the key fob won't unlock the car or disable the alarm. And the keys don't work in the door/trunk so I can't get inside. What I should do?
View 5 RepliesI have a 2009 VW JETTA. I have experienced my ABS alarm lights and sounds coming on in the past few months, twice while driving at speed in a curve and braking. Stopping the vehicle, turning it off and back on clears the errors, checking with my ODBII reader once I get home finds no errors.
Where this has occurred is a rather odd exit off of I-70 to Wadsworth Blvd., you are exiting at pretty good speed from the Interstate, curving to the right, then to the left and pretty much braking the entire time, and going into a slight bank. You can feel the increase in G's as you make this exit. I have also driven the exit and greatly reduced my speed and level of braking and the issue with the ABS does not occur. My local dealer is at a loss to find or explain what is occurring.
My questions are, is there something seriously wrong with my braking system (ABS), if there is, what is it, if there isn't, why does it do this only under the conditions that it is occurring?
I've been dealing with a frustrating issue for a while now. Whenever I use my key fob the alarm sets but my front and back driver side doors won't lock. After playing around I've noticed that the driver's side door locks when actually inserting the key and turning. Also, all of the doors lock when I am sitting in the driver's seat and push the lock button on the door panel but the back driver's side door won't unlock unless I crank the vehicle and hit the unlock button. I don't think the key fob has a low battery because I've used both key fobs and it locks one side but not the other. It's all very weird to me. The situation is frustrating for two reasons:
1) Doors are not actually locking so thieves have access to whatever they can grab and run away;
2) I occasionally forget to hit the unlock button and cause my alarm to go off and annoy neighbors, coworkers, etc.
What could be causing this? I'd like a quick fix but I'm afraid I'm going to have to open up the door panels and play around all weekend.
I purchased a 1999.5 Jetta VR6. The guy who owned it said he lost the key, had a new one cut, but not programmed. It started and ran fine with the new key for about 2-4 minutes. He was driving it, it ran perfect, and just shut off. It cranked and never fired.
It's been sitting for maybe a month. I put a brand new battery in it, tried the key. It cranks, will not fire. The sound of it cranking sounds a little off, like low compression or something. Could this be from the key, or does it sound like something else? I'm not sure how an uncoded key would react. I'm towing it to the dealer to have the keys programmed, but I'm trying to think of what else it could be. I was going to check spark or fuel, but I'm not sure what the immobilizer does to make the car not run.
I had a small chirp noise in my Van when it shifts into 4th gear. Took it into United transmissions for a total rebuild. First rebuild had the same noise so they did it again and it came back with the same noise.at that point they said they don't know what it is. I can find no one in this state that will rebuild the Tranny.
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