Golf - Volkswagen :: 1995 - When Accelerate, Revolutions Goes Up But Speed Stays Same
Aug 27, 2015
I got an automatic VW Golf 3 1995 75ps for my wife, Basically it was a gift, the car is in OK conditions, motor works very decent and for my own amusement the thing actually drives great! The only problem is in 3rd gear, the car change between gears clean and very tight, the problem is when the car accelerates the revolutions goes up buuuut the speed stays basically the same, until I put my foot out of the pedal and reaccelerate, then slowly it works fine but as soon as I put some power on it, it slip, very frustratingly BTW! There is no worrying noise, no smoke, no leak, I haven´t measure the ATF mainly because it is impossible in this car! It is supposed to stay closed forever! (?). My main question is if the ATF can be related with this issue or is it other component of the Transmission? Second question is if the ATF is not related then what can it be?
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My 95 vw golf wont start I've tried push starting and jumping. it runs fine. The alarm just started going off randomly. So I disabled it and hot wielder starter wires. It turns over but will not start.
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I'm a broke grad student with a 1995 Jetta. I've had it about four years, and it's mostly been all right. Granted, it's mostly held together with luck at this point--my dad's a former mechanic, and he did a fair bit of work on it before I moved a thousand miles away. The other day on my way to work, the car started bucking and shuddering, especially when I first started moving. I was very nearly out of gas, and I thought that might be the problem. I put some in and things got almost totally better almost immediately. Tonight, the car tries to start, but it won't catch. My dad thinks I have water in my tank. Would that do this?
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I got vw golf 2000 tdi , I never had a problem with it, the other day I was driving on high speed just about to over take my car slow dawn it was feel like there no turbo, in low gears is fine but if u go over 70 mph it won't go, but soon is u switch off the engine and start again it will come back to normal ??
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This just started today and when I turned off my car and removed the key from the ignition, the radio stayed on. Also, when I opened the door, the door chime came on as if the lights were still on and now I'm not able to lock the car or set the alarm using my key. I've read that some vw cars are wired so that the radio stays on after the car is turned off, but this has never been the case with my car. My main concern is battery drainage and being unable to lock and arm my alarm.
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After I could not figure why I was having the alarm light I drove the car to a mechanic, explained my sleepless nights and many hours of problem analysis, and then the mechanic took his code reader, connected to the OBD car port, made a few clicks, and charged me $45 and then sent me off. The alarm light has not been back since - it blinks as expected when I start the car.
On my further research I have found that VW airbag light will come on if you check airbag with your ghetto OBD code reader - exactly what I had read! It registers "high resistance", and must be reset by someone with a qualified code reader!
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I have 2001 Wolfsberg Edition 4D jetta (gas) with 180,000 miles, manual transmission. The engine light has been on for years and years. Usually what I do is take it in for an oil change just before a smog. They re-set the codes. I drive it to my office and back and the light would stay off and I could smog it. Until recently. In April, I took the car in for an oil change. And when I picked it up, it ran terribly. It was lurching like crazy. I had to keep slip the clutch to drive it until it warmed up and the it would mostly start running OK. I took it back to my mechanic and he thought it was a timing belt. I had already changed the timing belt at 119,000 miles.
It seemed odd to me that this procedure needed to be done again after 60,000 miles, but I went ahead and had it done. That did not fix the problem. Then the mechanic replaced the air mass meter. That didn't work. Then he replaced the coils. That didn't work. My mechanic has had the car for a month and can't seem to figure out what to do. He keeps getting different error codes - codes that don't seem to make sense to him. The car needs to a smog (my registration date is June), but he can't smog it because we can't get the check engine light to stay off long enough.
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I have a 1995 lumina. Yesterday the oil light came on. There is plenty of oil but the light stays on. I'm thinking it is either the oil pump or the sensor. How do I determine which???
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My 2000 Maxima manual, only in hot wether after driving for 30-40 min. revolutions start rising by itself and can go very high, becomes impossible to drive,have to shot off the car. I have this problem for 10 years and dealer is saying that they never heard anything like that.
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1995 vw Jetta 110K miles.. My car has a hard time starting in the mornings or when it sits idly for a while (when I park overnight) . On any bright and sunny day, it's like the car is brand new - starts with no problems at all. Tried several mechanics and none of them have been able to diagnose the problem. To make it simple, cold outside - car will not start, warm/hot outside car will start.
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I have a 1995 F250 SuperDuty pickup with a 5.8L FI Engine and an automatic Transmission with Overdrive. The truck runs great except when I am towing a trailer up a grade. When I start the grade climb after a few minutes, the Check Engine Light starts blinking and then stays On, and the power drops off drastically. Sometimes I am just going 30 mph up the grade. Doesn't matter if I am towing a 1500 Lb or a 6000 LB trailer, the behavior is the same. I might mention that when I am towing I turn OFF the overdrive via the button on the end of the transmission shifter. When I reach the summit, of if I am going downhill, or on flat ground the Check Engine light goes OFF and power returns. I understand that the 1995 F250's computer does not store codes, so I am up the creek on this one. I don't know how I can simulate the condition at a mechanics shop.
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I have a 99 VW Passat, it is making a loud buzzing noise as I accelerate to speeds above 20-25mph. The noise sounds like a baseball card in your bike spokes (or a room fan) does. The noise disappears when I push the clutch in. Here's the really weird part: when revving the engine as it's parked in neutral, there's no sound. What the heck is going on?
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Question regarding the car failing to accelerate properly that only happens just when I start driving it.
Turn on the car and go, it accelerates fine in first gear. When I switch to second gear it starts shuddering at 20mph and won't go any faster no matter how hard I push the pedal. I switchh to 3rd and its fine until I get to 30mph and then the same thing. I pull over, turn off the car, restart and it's all fine.
I drive a 2004 volkswagen polo 1.2L engine with 100,000 miles or 160k kilometres.
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I've got a 95 Intrepid that wont seem to change gears when I have the accelerator all the way down (from standing and passing gear). Other than that it seems ok. I want to add some Lucas. I am worried about overfilling...Lucas says a moderate overfill is ok, but I am still apprehensive.
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So, I have a 4.9l 1995 F150 equipped with the E4OD trans. Lately, noticed over the last two or three days, the vehicle does not want to accelerate under WOT. I can hear the RPMs of the engine increasing, but the vehicle speed will remain the same; it will do this in any gear.
I checked my fluid color and level in the trans, and all was in fine. There was no discoloration or odor, nor was the fluid low at all. I'm wondering if this is a torque convertor issue, or a problem with the clutches slipping.
Mind you, my truck just hit 70k, so this isn't a high mileage vehicle. Under light load, or throttle, the vehicle will shift fine through all gears. However, if I try to accelerate heavily, or go WOT, I get nowhere. It feels like slipping.
Someone recommended that I pull codes; they are as follows:
KOEO 33--EGR did not open
Continuous 28--VAT sensor out of range
Engine Running 63--TPS too low
26--MAF or VAF out of range
32--EVP/EGR not responding during test
My plans are to check for codes again, fluid and filter change, and then see what is going on. Would an 8 hour road-trip at close to 80mph have caused this, because after getting back I noticed this problem.
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My 1995 Audi 90 Sport needs to have the acceleration pedal pushed very far, about half way, before the car begins to to move, also when the pedal is put all the way to the floor the vehicle only goes to around 70mph. And finally I am having trouble finding a shop book for the vehicle.
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I had a small chirp noise in my Van when it shifts into 4th gear. Took it into United transmissions for a total rebuild. First rebuild had the same noise so they did it again and it came back with the same noise.at that point they said they don't know what it is. I can find no one in this state that will rebuild the Tranny.
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I've got a 1995 Buick LeSabre that has a curious problem with the air conditioner. The AC blows good and cold, but when I accelerate the air stops blowing from the vents. I can still hear the fan running, so it's like the air is being redirected somewhere. Now, once I get up to speed after accelerating, if I let off the accelerator for a second, the AC resumes blowing normally.
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We have a '95 GMC Vandura G2500 and today when we took off from a stoplight the van suddenly started vibrating like crazy and running rough. It was making a knocking noise and the van kept shaking the whole way home. The shaking was worse both coming to a stop and accelerating. We could also smell gas when we stuck our heads out the window.
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I have a 95 Buick Regal, V6 3.8 Liter. The symptoms are the following: stuttering idle. And lack of response at times when I try to accelerate. Like sometimes I'll be driving on the highway, and having no problems. Then I'll be going up a hill at around 55 mph, and then the car will shudder as I try to maintain a speed of 55 mph. So I have to ease off the accelerator and slow down. At first I thought this was a transmission problem, but I am guessing it's the same problem that causes my choppy idle.
So I had this acceleration problem on the highway when I was going up a hill. And a weak idle. These problems have been going on for several months now. They were annoying, but didn't seem that serious. Then all of a sudden, on a rainy day, the car was really responding poorly to acceleration at all speeds. I was able to drive around, but I couldn't count on the car responding right away when I hit the gas pedal. And the car would shudder at times. Then, I didn't drive the car for a few days, and then it was dry, no rain, and the car ran better. So I am thinking humidity makes the problem worse.
I have also noticed over the past few months, that the car runs best when I start it up after a few days of not running it. Then if I drive the car a few miles and let it sit for about 2 hours or so, it would idle weakly when I would start it up again. The car's been doing that for several months now, but it wasn't really affecting the drivability or the response of the car when I hit the gas pedal.
Now it's gotten much worse. So, I've already replaced the following items myself to no avail: mass air flow sensor, oxygen sensor, and egr valve. I am guessing the next thing to fix is the pcv valve. But I also think it might be the fuel pump. My first guess though is the pcv valve. What else could it be? And is there any easy way to test to see if the fuel pump is going bad? Or should I just take out the pcv valve and see if it looks bad?
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My neighbor has a 1995 Dodge Dakota 3.9L that I have been trying to get back in good reliable condition. It has the 3.9L V6, manual transmission, and is 2WD if that matters. It is a pretty basic truck and must have about the fewest options they had that year. It has air conditioning but no radio as it came this way from the factory.
It has an issue which I suspect is vacuum related. When you accelerate or climb a hill, the HVAC acts really crazy. The vents start blowing air and then stop. It doesn't do this on a flat surface but does it immediately when you accelerate or otherwise put the engine under greater load.
I have inspected all the vacuum lines and found nothing wrong. There have been some issues with mice building a nest in the air cleaner but I couldn't find anything chewed. Where to look?
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