Godge - Grandcaravan :: 1990 - Jerking After About 45 Minutes Of Driving On Freeway
Oct 12, 2014
A few months ago, my van started jerking after about 45 minutes on the freeway. When it started jerking, the check engine light came on and the windshield wipers would come on just once. If I ignored it and kept driving, the jerking would become more frequent and violent until I pulled off the road and turned the car off, then back on. After turning it back on, everything would be normal again, sometimes until I finished my commute to work, sometimes it happened every 5-10 miles. Never any problem in town.
A few weeks later, and in addition to the previous stuff, when driving in town, the windshield wipers would come on just once when braking. That would happen a few times a day, with no check engine light and no other issues. Now, when you hit the brakes, in addition to the wipers coming on, sometimes the RPMs will drop until the engine dies. Today, it died 4 times in 10 minutes.
I've changed the very corroded ground strap from the block to the firewall, cleaned up the battery posts and cable connectors (dirty, but no corrosion), checked for corrosion in the wiring harness underneath the battery and I'm not finding anything.
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I have a P0406 code coming on and off on my 2006 Dodge Grand Caravan (EGR). I had the EGR replaced last year and then the cat shortly thereafter (at only about 48,000 miles). Right now, the car tends to make a rattling sound at low speeds, especially after a lot of stop-n-go driving, and it sometimes produces a strong exhaust smell. . The car has always burned/consumed a lot of oil (which Chrysler said was normal when I reported it while under warranty). Is there any chance this is not the EGR but something else producing a faulty error message? I was told by a Dodge service tech that the bad cat might have falsely triggered the EGR code when I first had it replaced.
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My tpms light came on tonight after 15 minutes of freeway driving. I checked the pressure in all 4 tires, and they were all right about 36 lbs. The door jamb tire info says 33 lbs cold, so this seems about right to me. why the tpms light might have come on? Is the spare tire hooked up to the tpms system? My Passat is only 1 month old, so I'm surprised the light came on.
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My 2009 Sonata 2.4L GLS is jerking at around 20mph when I slow down for the first 10 minutes that I start driving. I have taken it to the dealership 2 times. The first time, they updated the computer module for the transmission, however the problem was still there afterwards. The next time, I did a transmission fluid flush and fill, but yet I still have the same jerking problem.
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After driving for 30 minutes on the freeway, my Sonoma develops a high freq vibration that seems to increase after it starts. lessens a little as I slow, but does not go away until after the car has been parked for a while, but not as noticeable under about 30.. I have experienced this the last three days on my commute to and from work. Did have the breaks checked. I did have a clunk sound when i released the brakes at a stop, but that went away after the first brake check where they did not find anything, but just cleaned out the dust and readjusted. The vibe is pretty strong and makes me nervous to drive.
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I have a 2004 Hyundai Accent with about 120,000 miles on it. Last summer, it started jerking badly from park to 1st and 1st to 2nd for the first five or ten minutes that I drove it. It stopped during the winter (Texas winter, so a mild fall in most places with seasons), the check engine light never came on, and the transmission fluid was fine (both color and volume), so I didn't get it checked out. Now that it's summer again, the jerking has started back up. I've also noticed in the last few weeks weak acceleration after stopping (again, usually only in the first ten minutes or so of driving). And today my check engine light came on.
I've checked the fuses, and I just got my oil changed (they said the check engine light was giving them a transmission code, but didn't elaborate). I have a leaking valve cover gasket and cracked belts that I'll be repairing ASAP. Is it possible that either of those are causing this problem?
Since I'm a single young woman, I don't want to go into a shop without being fully informed (I can't tell you how many times I've been ripped off). My research suggested a couple things:1. It might be the coil packs.2. I might need a new transmission.
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My Dodge van makes a jerking/clunking knock under the vehicle when it comes to almost a complete stop. Feel strong inside the vehicle. If I break hard or gently that jerking/clunking knock will not happen- gotta hit and miss when I tried to control it.I am thinking of front brake which I must replace, it's pulsation occasionally....
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While driving our 1990 toyota corolla (3-speed automatic transmission) on the freeway recently, the car gave a slight jerk, at which point my husband looked at the gas gauge and noticed it was well below "E".. Oops. fortunately, there was an exit right there with a gas station. Filled up and we were off toward the next on-ramp. Got to about 35-40 mph, and all of a sudden the car literally just stopped moving forward after violently jerking back and forth several times. We then tried to put in neutral and push it to the side, but it wouldn't even do that. Everything was locked up, seized solid. Somehow we managed to get it to the side.
The flatbed tow truck took us home, and all we could do by that point was move a foot or two in reverse after it dropped us off... fast forward... After several days/weeks of it sitting around we can now actually drive it forward! reverse! but we haven't taken it out of the driveway to go more than 5 mph.. We had seen some fluid leaking prior to this incident, but could NOT figure out where it was coming from despite checking obvious fluids meticulously every couple of days. A friend said it might have been the diff fluid? We'd like to fix the car, but to repair a tranny on this old car (although it only has 67K miles!!!) is too expensive. My husband wants to make it a weekend project.
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I have a 1990 F250 with a 7.5 liter and an E4OD. It starting acting up a couple months ago. Tranny would seemingly go into neutral while on freeway. I figured trans was going out... After reading several threads I've decided to try changing the mlps first, got a new one at the dealer!!!. It is the updated one with the connector on the top. I'm currently waiting on a new pigtail from autozone (the original is in bad shape, wires frayed, insulation missing. Also I think when it started having issues we were having some serious rains, which may have caused this connect to get wet.
I believe a previous owner may have had the trans rebuilt at some point. The connect has 6 wires going in it and when I trace those wires back, two are spliced into one farther up the harness a bit. Looks like one is tied into a wire that goes to the solenoid harness. I'm hoping I can cut and splice the 6 wires into the new pigtail and be good.
For now, while I was under there I decided to pull the solenoid plug as instructed to make access to mlps plug easier... the lock is on the backside almost impossible to get to, I messed the plug up all the way around, but not fubarred. When I pulled the plug out, it was soaked in transmission fluid... Is that normal?
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I have a 2000 Ford Taurus SES that jerks heavily after being driven for about 5 mins. She starts right up, idles well, runs well in the beginning but then suddenly will start jerking when pressing on the accelerator. I'll pull to the side, put the car on neutral and rev the engine a little to see if any hesitation - NONE. Then once I put it in drive again and step on the gas, it feels like the tranny or something is jerking and about to fall off. If I park it and turn the car off for a while, then return to it, start it and drive it, it'll run fine for a few minutes and then the problem will start again.
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I've been experiencing this problem ever since I bought my '90 C1500 305 but its recently gotten worse. After long trips (over 100 mi) the truck refuses (will not even crank) to start for at least 5 minutes following shutdown. Now, it will intermittently not start for 15 minutes following shutdown after shorter (~10 mi) trips unless it gets a jump, which is strange considering the battery is not run down.
I first thought it was a bad contact in the ignition cylinder, but I noticed that the batt voltage would always droop when turning the key to start, so I guess that the ignition is being applied. Now I'm wondering if the starter motor might be bad?
It's a weird problem to have, I am 100% certain the truck will start if its cold. But after a long trip it just flat out refuses, will not even crank.
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I have a 1990 Subaru Legacy AWD wagon with almost 300,000 miles. After driving it for almost any length of time (long enough to bring it up to operating temperature) I'll park it, shut it off, walk away, & about 10 minutes later it will emit a loud squeak from the center rear underside of the car, almost as if something shifts position when the car heats up, then shifts back when its cooling off.
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I've had my car die twice on me lately. There is absolutely no warning - no sputtering, rough-running- just dies completely. I am still able to crank the engine after this happens, but it won't start immediately. After five or ten minutes, it will start and then run fine. 1990 Celebrity. what this could be and how to fix it?
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A140E transaxle issue... I have what I surmise is a direct clutch engagement issue. It takes (literally) 3 or MINUTES to engage reverse. And obviously the 2 -3 shift is slow also. It acts like there is a restriction in the passage to the direct piston. I rebuilt about 5 years ago, so am familiar with the teardown.
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Our van shuts off while driving. This means I have no power to brakes or steering. The only warning light that comes on is the traction control light. Therefore when hooked up to diagnostics there is no information. We have had it to 3 different places with no results or answers. We did have the ignition switch recall performed. We have filed claims with Chrysler with no answers other than arbitration and with the NHTSA.
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I have a 2005 Dodge Grand Caravan that is having multiple electrical issues. The problem first starts to show with the instrument panel needles going all the way to the right and coming back to the left. Some of the instrument lights stay lit. Then either in the next few minutes or days, the engine will shut off while driving. I can wait 30 seconds and sometimes it will start. After this sequence occurs, when I turn the key, the instrument lights will come on for a millisecond and then the engine will not start at all. I take it into the dealer and they say that the battery is severely discharged. They charge up the battery and the problem goes away for 1500-3000 miles. Of course, the dealer does not know what is causing the problem.
It seems like one of the issues could be a defective ignition switch, but what I can't figure out is what is causing the battery to severely discharge?I have removed the BMC fuse, waited 30 seconds and this would allow the vehicle to start, but I have stopped trying this approach because it does not remedy the situation long term.
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I have a 1989 BMW 635csi. Usually runs great. Driving down the freeway yesterday, the car started to run rough and the yellow ABS light came on. I slowed, the car ran smoothly, but then the ABS light would come on. By accelerating or decelerating, the light would go off. But in stop & go traffic, the engine ran very roughly and I smelled unburnt or poorly burnt exhaust. Took it to the BMW place today. Runs great. They cannot duplicate the problem.
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Our 1997 Grand Caravan with 170K loses more air conditioning every year. So, I assume I have a slow leak. Is recharging something I can do myself with the new type cans offered by auto parts stores? Also, I think the radiator fan no longer comes on, I never hear it and the engine temp will go up when driving slowly around town.
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CAR: 2013 VW GTI
MILES: 645 (I HAVEN'T EVEN BROKEN IT IN YET AND I STILL DRIVE IT UNDER 3)
STORY: As I was driving on the freeway, I tried to press down on the clutch to change gears (from forth to fifth), but my clutch wouldn't move at all; it was like stepping on a rock. So my clutch wasn't engaging and I couldn't do anything, but I managed to pulled off the freeway and I parked my car in the first neighborhood that I saw. By the time I had parked my car, my clutch was smoking profusely. I called VW Road Side and had my car towed to the dealership. They call me the next day to tell me that my clutch was completely burnt out, but there's no signs of harsh driving. They stated that it might be a defect (loose screw, bearing, etc).
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I have a 1992 Toyota MR2 and the other day I was driving home on the freeway. I started to hear this slight ticking noise from the engine compartment. I let off the gas and the noise stopped. I decided to pull over at the next exit but when I steeped on the gas again the engine died. No idiot lights on or gauges going wild that I remember seeing.
Now it won't even attempt to start. When I tried to roll start it, (it's a manual transmission) the wheels were locked up and actually tried rolling backward. When the car died on the freeway it just rolled to a stop so I know the tires worked fine when it died. What this might be? By the way, it's a non-turbo, 2.2 liter.
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I have a 2005 2.0 litre petrol Santa Fe. I recently had it serviced and after this I started to have problems with it suddenly cutting out or stalling momentarily while driving. This happens randomly, sometimes at slow and other times at high speeds, often when accelerating but a couple of times in cruise. It only lasts a second or two and picks up immediately but can sometimes happen a few times in succession. It never happened before the service. The orange check light with the exhaust icon (Malfunction indicator Light?) comes on sometimes but I haven't noticed it all the time. This problem is getting worse, more frequent. I pushed the car a bit today in 4th gear up to about 3500 rpm and it happened quite badly, a few jerks in quick succession with the light coming on then back to normal for the rest of the trip.
I brought it back to the garage who did the service (not a main dealer, nor my usual mechanic) and they ran full diagnostics on it a couple of times. Nothing showed up, no error codes and nothing logged on the car's computer. They tested the emissions and found them to be perfect. They didn't change the fuel filter because it seems to be built into the petrol pump but did put something in the system that is supposed to clear out any deposits or whatever. Not sure what it's called but some sort of fuel additive. That was why I drove it hard today. They suggested doing that to try and clear out the system. Doesn't seem to have worked.
The bottom line is they don't know what's causing this so I'll have to take it to my own mechanic or else the main dealer. I'm wondering what could be the problem. From searching the forum it looks like the symptoms could be consistent with a failing CPS, an oxygen or throttle position sensor or a faulty ignition relay. I also think it could be to do with a clogged fuel filter, dirty petrol or perhaps water in the fuel tank; we've had tons of rain lately and the car is kept outside! Given it started happening after the service I wonder if they could have fitted something wrongly, used a faulty part, maybe a plug, or left something loose/disconnected. They have however gone through it thoroughly to try and find the fault so I imagine they would have turned up something like that.
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