Gmc - Yukon :: Starter Spins Fine But Engine Won't Start
Oct 7, 2011
'99 Yukon. Starter spins engine fine but engine won't start. Spray a quick shot of starter fluid or drip some gas on the air filter and it starts fine. After sitting idle for a half hour or so the situation returns. Car will run highway speeds (70-80mph) fine and will handle stop and go in town. Local mechanic wants to replace the fuel pump, which was replaced a couple of years (30,000 miles) ago. This seems an expensive first step with no diagnostics done.
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I've got a 2001 4.6 F150, starter spins just fine, but it won't start. Checked all the basics, but it has no spark, and no pulses at the injectors. Is the PCM dead? Wore out the Haynes manual on this one....
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Got a problem that has left me in circles. 85 BMW 325e, manual. Won't start. Previously had some driveability problems, sporadic brief stalling. Using the key in ignition switch, starter spins the engine with no hint of a start.
1. IGN components all test to spec and during start attempt there is spark on all cylinders.
2. Fuel flow and pressure is within spec, both when FP relay is jumped and during start attempt.
3. Speed and reference sensors test good.
4. All inputs to dme have been tested, including power and grounds, and are good.
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Camry 2002 LE (4 cyl Auto), 140K mi
This morning, for the first time I can recall, the car would not start right away. Had been sitting in the garage for 2+ days. Starter would crank just fine, but engine would not fire. No lites were left on overnite. Finally (after about 6+ attempts), engine started -- runs fine now.
Took it to TOY dealer. Their diagnosis: weak battery, alternator low output.Happy, had recently (6 mos) replaced battery after 4 years of use, so got a new battery N/C.TOY ran a charging system check and it shows "Alternator Condition: OK" (midway between shitty and great I recall).
Funny, but my first thought when it would not start was the fuel system (fuel pump) or dirty ignitors. I did ask my regular mechanic for an opinion, and he thinks it might indeed be the fuel pump -- perhaps a clogged filter.
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Starting about 4 months ago, when starting my truck, the starter would miss; I would turn the key to start, then the starter spins and spools up very high and loud but not crank the engine. I have to turn the key off to make it stop and then try again. Usually the second or third time it will grab and turn the engine and start. It happens about once a week or once every 10 or 12 times I start my truck with all the other times being normal. Doesn't matter if it's a cold start or already warmed up. It's a 2012, 6.7L F250 with 52,000 miles. What is causing it and how it can be fixed.
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I have a a 2003 or 2004 Nissan Pathfinder (can't remember which at the moment). For the past few months, it's been having the same problem. One morning, I'll go out to start the car and the radio will have stopped working, but everything else is fine. A few days later, however, the car won't start in the morning. I'll jump it off, and the car and radio will be fine again for a few weeks. This doesn't last for long though.
Eventually, the radio will go out, and a few days later the car won't start again. I took it to my local mechanic and they tested the alternator/battery/ starter and said they were all fine, and that the battery cables just needed to be cleaned. After the cleanup, the car and radio worked fine for a few weeks...but sure enough, a few days ago, the radio went out. This morning I had to jump my car off again. What the real problem is? I'm taking it to the shop again today, but what else it could be...
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Santa Fe 2013. I bought it a few months ago and soon after a strange issue appeared from time to time. When I push the start/stop button it spins the engine but it wont start no matter how much I wait. Usually it start fine for the second time. This happens sometimes and sometimes not. About 2 months ago it didn't want to start for about 5-10 minutes no matter what I tried (push the button with the tip of the key), so I decided to go to a service station.
There they connected the car to a computer to check if there were any error codes logged. But they haven't find anything, after the second time I visited the station they replaced the battery in the key, told that maybe that was the problem.
I really don't know much about cars but it was a strange idea as I would expect the same behaviour when the battery is low than when the key is not present: Car not doing anything but displaying a message that the key is not present.
Anyway, it kinda worked, or I was lucky. For more than a month everything was fine, not a single issue. And today morning it started again. I brought my car to a hand washing, and after they cleaned the outside with steam they wanted to park the car inside the building to clean the interior, and the same issue occurred. And after that it happened with me as well several times this day.
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I have a 2010 F150 with 39,000 miles. This morning the truck started fine. I ran in to get something came back out and the truck had died. I tried to restart it and nothing. When you turn the key forward the starter spins and wont stop until u turn the key off. The truck never tried to fire. The motor tuned over and over but nothing. is there a starter relay? A solenoid?
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I just bought a 99 F350 to replace my 01 F250 5.4 and I'm pretty stoked. There are several problem (some i knew about, some were surprises) 1 of which is the starter. The guy I bought it off said that every 100 starts or so (more like every 4-5) the starter sounds like it free-wheels but you just wait for it to stop, turn the key again (sometimes twice) and it engages and starts (although it takes a few seconds of turning over before it fires up).
I have a buddy with the same truck and he has had to replace his starter many times and I read in an old log book from the original owner that he had replaced the starter every 25,000kms (15,000miles). I am not the kind of guy who likes to fix things to have them break again.
SO my question is, WHY do the starters on these trucks keep breaking? What is the weak link? Is it possible to re-build one with better parts at home?
Is the problem partially because my batteries are only 650CCA and 750CCA and it takes more to turn this beast over? Could it be a bendix issue?
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-15 degrees at 7:30 this morning and my F-150 4.6L started just fine. At 9:30 and -6 engine would turn over well but wouldn't start. When I shut the key off, I would hear a "vibration" from the area of the instrument panel and the speedometer needle would shake for about 15 seconds then quit. At 1:30 the truck started fine but the trip odometer had rest to 0.0. What happened and where to start looking?
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A cold engine crank will turnover and start normally. But stop to run and errand or grab lunch...and the warm 302 2 barrel engine will turn over very sluggishly, lke the battery is dying. If you wait until the engine is cool, an easy start is assured but that takes hours! A local repair shop has rebuilt the carb, the battery & cables are new, and the starter works fine when engine is cold. My local repair shop is out of suggestions. It seems to work a little to hold the gas pedal down on the floor for a warm engine start....but engine still turns over sluggishly when trying to start when warm. Now If I drive it.....I just drive it around town a bit then back home ...unless I stay several hours somewhere while the engine cools....but that's not fun. It is a convertible, fun to drive...and this problem needs to be solved.
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I have a 2013 Passat TDI with remote starter, when I start the car it runs until I unlock the doors and then the engine shuts off, I know there is something I am doing wrong but can't seem to find the information in the manual on how to keep the engine running.
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My wife has a 2002 Thunderbird. Sometimes it won’t start when you turn the key. I don’t mean it doesn’t crank or cranks slowly, nothing happens. You can hear relays clicking but obviously no power is getting to the starter - the lights don’t dim when this happens. We’ve had the starter motor replaced. My mechanic is baffled. Sometimes this happens hourly, sometimes it will go weeks without happening – it’s been doing this for at least a year. To get it started, you just need to sit there and keep turning the key 10 to 40 times. It will eventually start. She just informed me that sometimes she shuts off the car in something other than Park, them moves to Park. Can this mess up the xmission lever position lockout to cause this? How can it just start by turning the key, only, multiple times? Remember, you can hear relays clicking when the key is turned.
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I have been suffering from LH battery drain for some time now. sometimes its random I will park it for 10 min. come back and the battery is drained (I have to use the key to gain entry). sometimes it only happens over night, where other times the battery doesn't go dead overnight. so last weekend I decided to change the brakes...That was easy but then I forgot to hook up my battery maintainer...so you know what happened! now the problem is I charged the battery and hooked it back up. No start! everything works fine the battery is fully charged and only 1 year old.
But this is the weird part if I disconnect the starter battery the car starts up fine. I hook both batteries back up and try the parallel start way (turn to start then full counter clockwise then full clockwise several times no luck). the LH battery is drained now after a few start and stops (no driving) and the starter battery is fully charged. but with both batteries hooked up it wont even attempt to start and now I also have no power to the power trunk!!! this car is starting to suck balls.
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This issue has been happening for a few weeks now since it has been around -10C here. When I start the car it starts just fine but then the starter grinds against the flywheel (same as if you tried to start while car already on). I did a quick search and found that the relay may be faulty, Car is at 87000 kms.
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My 2007 f250 power stroke 6.0. My A/C comp went out. After replacing it I was told that my fan clutch is bad and will cause the new ac to go out. My engine is not running hot. The fan still spins for a while after engine is turned off.
1) Could it have not been re installed correctly?
2) How do I know my Fan Clutch is bad?
3) How do I replace it myself?
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Will not start. Engine turns over fine. Have electric to lights, radio, everything but the fuel pump, coil and fuel gauge. Ignition switch and fuel pump check out okay. Checked fuses, okay. Vehicle has an add on after market remote start/security system, has been working fine for years.
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RE: FORD PROBE GL (non-turbo). Last week suddenly car wouldn't start Thurs. night. Cranked but would not turn over. Heard click at ignition switch area when key turned to start position. (Although I could only hear one click from inside the vehicle with windows shut, I was told that clicks audible under the hood from standing outside.) Tried jump starting (from a good battery using proper connections) unsuccessfully, repeated tries several minutes apart, allowing longer and longer time to charge. About every third attempt, instead of cranking sounds, I would get silence, with only the click audible.
Temperatures decreased from approximately 50s to 20s when symptoms began.Battery is old but tests good/replace soon: 330+ CCA at 43 degrees, original rating CCA 530 (silver battery now at 7 years. Will replace, but garage did not have required size 56). At that point, the amps gauge read at the low end of the normal range (and today it read mid-way in the normal range).Had car towed to garage on Friday. Mechanic looked at on Saturday and decided it was the inertia switch, which he said had "tripped".I watched video for technicians on inertia switch but it shows on newer Fords. Mine is not located at the kick panel and does not have a red button on top. I am not certain from my experience whether the reset button would actually be in a different position when tripped or he merely surmised that is what had happened, despite my telling the shop manager that I had not so much as bumped a curb. Also, the trunk was not slammed or even opened prior to the car not starting.
Car presumably started fine at mechanic when they pulled it into the garage to put air in tires and back out to the lot, as well as when I started it to drive home on Sunday. However, on Tuesday it would not start. Just in case, I depressed inertia switch reset and tried cranking again several times, giving it some gas, until I was actually pumping it vigorously in desperation as a last resort (several seconds turning key each time), and on about the 5th try, the engine began to catch just as I was releasing the key. Reset the inertia switch one more time (just in case), and after a couple more attempts, it finally started, but when I was going in reverse to back out and then putting in gear to start out in first gear, for about 15 seconds total, I heard a bizarre loud, fairly high-pitched whistle/whine type of sound that seemed to come from under the hood coming through the central area of the dash where the radio is located.
Drove about 5 miles to my job, and about 2 hours later was able to start the car on the first try. Lately usually driven relatively short distances of 2-4 miles, with a longer drive of 11 miles broken up into 6 miles + 5 miles on the return trip the night before this started happening.
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The Engine cranks over fine, but won't start. When it does start everything is okay and it runs good with no codes. I noticed that by taking the key out of the ignition, I was checking under the hood, and put it back in the truck fired right up. Also it has never done this to the second driver who has a different key. The truck runs fine at all speeds and loads, even when hauling twenty bags of wet mulch. It's a 2001, 4.6 L, RWD. Could the PATS Chip be failing?
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I have an 01 2wd with 6.8L, 149K and had her for about 3 years now. Today I went out to leave work, inserted key and went to turn it on. As I reached the say 3/4 position all the dash lights came on as usual and then I heard a small "click" sound as I finished turning the key, then is just went loose. The key now has no resistance. it just sort of "free spins". not all of the way around or anything. She did not start and the dash lights are still on. Had to disconnect the battery to get dash lights off.
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What is wrong with her car. It is an 05 subaru outback 3.0. She bought it 4 months ago. A week ago the battery died at red light. It tested bad and was replaced. Then yesterday it died at stop sign. Jumped it and died in 5 seconds. Before dying, car would not rev. Jumped it leaving cables on for 5 minutes since battery was almost drained. She made it half mile back to office and coasted into lot. Battery tested good but drained and was fully charged. Alternator tested 7 times to be certain. We bought a 10A multimeter (our town has no 20A).
Tested for parasitic drain. No results. We took Alternator off and tested a couple more times. We took out non essential fuses to be safe. Nothing was left running. There was a phone charger that has been plugged in for the whole four months. She took it out for good measure. Starter tested good. 3 people said battery cables are good. They appear to be non corroded and tight imo as well. They checked fuel pump. All was well.
She wants to go on vacation for the 4th but is scared to try. Mechanic friend said wait until it happens again, go to o reileys and demand them replace the battery as it has to be bad even if testing good. I'm not sure of this is the correct approach, but what else is there? One online mechanic said a voltage test on electrical system is next step but only a few select mechanics even know how to do it such as one that specializes in electrical wiring or something like that.
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