Gmc - Yukon :: 2002 - Cutting Off At High Speeds
Jun 20, 2014
Have a 2002 Yukon 5.3 ltr engine (155K miles) that likes to cut off at highway speeds. Usually happens after 4 or 5 hours of running at 70 to 80 mph. Strangely if I set the cruise control and do the same speeds, nothing... When it happens I end up coasting to the side at the roadway and sitting there for 15 or 20 minutes and it'll start right up and usually go the rest of the way. I've talked to a couple repair shops and they have checked service bulletins and have never been able to find anything. Will be driving to Connecticut for the 4th and not looking forward to being on 95 with the possibility of this happening again.
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2002 Camry is jerking and bucking at high speeds then stalls after coming to a stop. Will restart immediately if you give it gas. Then I must keep pressure on accelerator at all times even while stopped or car stalls. Shut car off and let sit for 20 to 30 minutes. Once restarting must give it gas, but then car runs without stalling. However has no trouble on cold start.
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I just bought a 2002 corolla with a salvage title. I am having trouble with the front passenger side vibration at high speeds 50mph on up. It had the vibration when I bought it and I put 4 brand new tires on it, and had the front end aligned and had a fellow mechanic look at it and and said everything up front was tight. The guy I bought it from said he had the front brakes just done but I feel a pulsating as when I apply the brakes. My fellow mechanic said he would turn the rotors next week, my question is what would be my next step if that not it, axle? I really wouldn't car but I drive this car 150 miles a day to work and its all highway.
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My 2002 Toyota Highlander burned up to a quart of oil very 300 miles when on a recent long distance freeway trip. It must be burning it out the back as there is no drip. Clearly, there is a leak, but why only when driving on long freeway trips? Can this be due to pressure build-up and a clogged PCV?
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I have a whirling or spinning noise coming from front differential at speeds above 30 mph. The noise stops when I release the accelerator? From what I read maybe the bearings.
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I'm working on a 1987 Ford F150 that's cutting out at speeds above 45mph. The ignition system and fuel pressure checks out OK, but it still cuts out at speed. Today I noticed a new symptom and a rather bizarre one at that. If you slam a door or hood, the engine speeds up 500 rpm and then settles back down.
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Initially I brought the car in for repair because the engine was cuting out at higher speeds so they replaced all 4 coil packs and did an oil change.
After 50+miles of driving it was taken home. Later on we tried to start the car and it wouldn't start. The car has power and it cranks.
We then bring it back to the shop and they say there is no compression. I suspect conventional oil was used.
Would the wrong oil cause my problems? 2008 VW Passat Turbo...
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I have a 2004 GMC Yukon SLT, 2WD. At night, when I signal right, my high beams come on. After making the right turn, my signal disengages and the high beams return to low. Now I only make left turns at night.
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My 02 yukon lights have been going on and off. Now they won't come on at all. I tried messing with dome override and everything i can think of.. Actually first notice was mirror lights on sun visor. Now all out
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On a 2002 yukon .... Had my oil change and the light stays on.....
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I have APR Stage I+ and love it. However, I've noticed at around 6000 rpm I'm getting what feels like the fuel pump cutting out like you would experience when you hit redline. Of course, stock redline is higher than 6000 and APR Stage I+ redline is even higher. So this shouldn't be happening.
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So I have been reading through older posts on this and never found a good solution so now I am asking again. My parking brake on my 02 Yukon is bad. I push it and it goes to the floor. Almost no stopping power what so ever.
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I recently purchased a 2002 Yukon Denali. I've noticed a whining sound from the front end when I'm at a steady speed. When I take my foot off the pedal, the sound stops. I had it in the dealership and they first thought it was the front drive shaft and replaced it. That didn't work at all, so they then told me it was due to the all wheel drive. What is causing this?
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I have an '02 XL Denali 1500. The spare tire carrier was broken (cable had snapped) prior to me buying it. As best I can find, the part number for it is: 15026912. I'm curious if any of the newer designs (such as part# 25974845) would fit. 2 reasons I'm asking,
1) the newer ones supposedly keep the tire from falling on the road if the cable were to break, and
2) they're cheaper than the original part number.
Living where road salt snacks on vehicles for 6 or 7 months out of the year has yielded no luck in finding a functional one by checking with the local salvage yards.
Right now the spare sits in the back, which is fine most of the time, but it takes up a good amount of space when packing for trips.
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I recently got a 2002 gti 337 from some dude in maryland. the car had apr stage 1 and 2 installed and a euro tuned air intake...everything else was stock. I've had the car for about 2 months now and all of the sudden it started sputtering and cutting out when id get on it a little. I also noticed I was smelling a lot of gas from under my hood. i read up and found that my car had a recall on the coilpacks so I just got them replaced thinking that would work..then changed the plugs as well. i still have a misfire though only in cylinder 4 and its really taking the fun out of the car. I only have it on stage 1 because I didn't have a turboback till just recently and now I don't even want to put it on cause i have no power.
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Alright I did a search and found these threads with no final resolution on each. My new 2013 has the whistling noise at high speeds (65+) and high winds. It's for sure not from the engine and coming from both the driver and passenger mirrors. I can hear it with either or both front windows down but not back windows. No whistle at idle or due to high RPMs. What is the Jetta TSB # or a fix for this issue.
[URL] .....
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My SantaFe drives beautifully until it gets to about 50 - then it starts cutting out and decelerating. It seems as if it is not getting any power at all. It chugs out, powers back at the next lower gear, then settles in at about 45 mph.
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2002 Suzuki XLZ 4WD. It has 149,000 miles, has had a new starter, new fuel pump and lines, and new brakes in the past year. Bought it a couple of weeks ago and took it straight to shop, so I have no personal history with this car.
Now: have replaced all catalytic converters and exhaust pipe. Have also replaced Mass Air Flow Sensor.
Great news - all computer codes are cleared. Runs great when in park or neutral (30 min or more). Mechanics then moved it around parking lot with no problem, so they trusted it enough to take it on a test drive on the open road. Made it out of sight of shop (not sure how far, but it was an improvement over the last time!)...but required tow back.
Hooked back up to diagnostic computer, and found NO error codes. They are doing what they call "exploratory surgery" (yikes). Am I wrong in thinking this is probably a TPS issue? What are the other things that could cause this inconsistent power/stalling when it is put in gear?
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I just recently lowered my mk6 with h&r springs(1.2 front and rear) and installed wheels and tires from tire rack. I am noticing a lot of vibration at the wheel, pedals and seats while accelerating or moving at higher speeds. I had an alignment done after the springs were installed and all 4 tires/wheels have been road force balanced. One of the tires rated at 20lbs which apparently is acceptable but Tire rack sent me a new tire anyway, which I just had put on today.
Still the same vibration is there. Next step tire rack wants to do is switch out all 4 of my Michelin for a different tire. The guys at tires plus feel that there is no issue with the tires and I think I agree. Could the lowering springs be the problem?
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My car shakes a lot on high speeds and the other day i noticed that my passenger back tire is kind of tilted its not sitting on straight i tried to take it off and put it on again but it just doesn't sit on straight for some reason so i was wondering i have a 98 passat wagon 1.8t FWD... Do these cars need alignment in the back tires too or just the front ? Because someone had told me that the alignment could cause the back wheel to tilt is this true? Will alignment fix my problem ?
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One thing that makes me nervous is the slow deceleration of the c at high speeds. My commute to work is an hour on the highway.
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