I have a ac compressor that doesn't work all the time. I have read how voltage or low power can effect this. When mine does not start up, if you tap the end of the compressor with a rubber mallet, it engages and runs fine for an extended period. Am I dealing with a power supply issue, or could this just be a bad ac clutch?
View 1 RepliesI have leak coming from compressor area. Detached lines seals appear good , suction hose y block has possible leak is this common??
View 2 Replies2002 1500 4WD 126K miles. A/C not working, compressor does not engage when A/C is switched on. Is there an interlock if the refrigerant level is too low to keep the compressor from engaging? Original owner, A/C has never been recharged. Is recharging my best first step.
View 2 RepliesI have a 94 C2500 suburban with a TBI 454BB. Obviously, I'm not concerned with fuel mileage, but I am currently getting about 4 miles to the gallon because the idle is stuck at 1800RPM. Normal idle for my model according to the index book is 750RPM. it's usually pretty close to that when operating normally (+/-25RPM). 3 days ago I did my biannual throttle body cleaning. Took it completely off replaced the gasket cleaned the throttle body and put it all back together. This is when the problem started... It now idles at 2300 RPM, it threw the code for bad idle air control valve, and I figured I probably got the plug wet when cleaning the throttle body, so I went ahead and ate the 60 bucks and replaced it.
Went through the reset process for the ECM to learn the new one and it the idle has come down to 1800RPM, it also literally DUMPING fuel through the injectors into the top of the throttle body. While I don't believe it is actually running rich, it seems more like the idle is trying to compensate for the excess fuel that is being dumped into the top end. Now, Before I go any further I want someone else's input. "I" think it is a also a bad throttle position sensor that probably got wet when cleaning the TB. But I am worried it could also be the PCM has finally gone out, although this is probably not likely because the entire ignition is run by this and if it was bad, it would stand to reason that it wouldn't run at all. Or it could be a bad vacuums control module. I have checked all my vacuum lines and do not have any leaks, so I know that isn't the problem. So that's where I am. I am hoping to check the leads on the TPS today with a ohm meter. I know my resistance levels.
"step on gas, truck feel like it is pulling a house, slight buck, but with more gas it moves, it has good presure out the exhast, all wheels are turning freely, engine idles great has lots of power,"
tested, cyl pressure, fine
check engine timing, fine
made sure all wheels spin freely, fine
check all fluids, fine
slight pinging sound can be heard, from time to time from center of truck. I'm thinking torque convertor. Feels like engine is binding only when you put it in gear.
I have a 1994 suburban1500 heater is not working in front or rear and in the front I have no control on the vents it only blows on the floor flashes if I try and change from floor to vents or defrost also blows air on floor while driving with the fan off so seems that the vent is stuck open the rear I have control on vent or floor just will not blow heat just outside temp air I had the same problem with a buick I had and never figured out the problem this is driving me crazy.
View 1 RepliesMy 1994 Chevy Suburban will not engage the front drive shaft. It has an electric actuator and it will not engage. the transfer case engages but not the front axal. When I shift the transfer case into 4Hi or 4Low it will shift itself but the light will not turn on. I have heared rumors that you might have to manualy connect it to the battery and have a kill switch in the cab. What is the problem and should I connect it manualy?
View 6 RepliesI have been having problems with the rear heat & ac. It was blowing intermittently then we would have to tap the panel in the back right side to get it to work, it won't blow at all. Is it the blower motor?
View 1 RepliesI have a 94 Chevy Suburban C1500 with a 5.7L, 350 Engine. It has 235,000 miles on it. I purchased it about 4 years ago with 191,000 miles in very good condition and obviously well maintained. I have continued to maintain it well.
For the past few months it has begun to start a little slower that before and when accelerating cold or warm there is a spot where it looses power. It doesn't sputter or die it just looses power. I can press the accelerator farther and it will come back to life and do fine. After a 20 -30 minute drive if I park for a while, 20 - 30 minutes, when I start it up it dies. The only way to keep it running is to give it the gas and smooth it out at about 1500 rpm for 10 - 15 seconds. Then I can drive it with no problem most of the time though it still has the dead spot on acceleration.
There is a good spray pattern from the throttle body injectors. Plugs and wires are relatively new and plugs look good (AC Delco Rapidfire Platinum). When I turn on the ignition without going to start, the fuel pump builds pressure for 4 - 6 seconds. I haven't checked the fuel pressure yet and am considering investing in the rig to do so. I recently replaced the fuel filter but that didn't work.
The check engine light has not come on but many of the lights in the cluster are burned out and I haven't felt like going to the trouble to fix that so it is possible that the check engine bulb is bad.
What seems to cause this problem of the ABS and brake light coming on at the same time intermittently. I can go an hour or so then pop -- then come on. Its a 2001 with a 5.3 in it.
View 3 RepliesFirst bit of cold weather and I'm getting thirty seconds of loud clicking (or clacking) coming from the immediate vicinity of the blower motor on start up and shut down. Doesn't matter whether my climate control is on or off, it still makes the noise. I'm assuming it's stripped out teeth on one of the blend door actuator gears and I'll probably just end up replacing it. My problem: Where exactly is the offending actuator? I've removed the glove box and noted one located on the left side. I unplugged this but am still getting the ratcheting sound so it obviously isn't the culprit. I had this happen a few years back (same time of year) and out of ignorance and frustration solved it with a well aimed kick but the way it's acting this time I don't think I've got a big enough boot.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2001 Suburban (chevy) 5.3 liter Vortec engine, auto trans 4 wheel drive, fully loaded. As of late I come out in the morning to find a dead battery. this happened before and I disconnected the fuse for the dvd player that was installed aftermarket. some times I have to hit my dashboard to get the dash lights to work, now they dont work at all. sometimes the ride control compressor runs for no apparent reason when the car is off. I replaced the battery 3 years ago and it seemed to solve the problem until now. I replaced the battery with an optima red top yesterday and now the electrical system is going haywire. the ABS light is flashing and the service ride control light is on, the fuel gauge is bouncing back and forth from full to empty. What should I do. I am a fair mechanic but electrical is not my forte.
View 3 RepliesI just picked up a '94 7.3 IDI Turbo, and I can't figure out what ails the AC. It appears that there should be enough refrigerant (according to my recharge kit), but the compressor clutch will not engage. I have checked the fuses, and all are fine. All other HVAC functions are normal. Is there a way to test the compressor?
View 5 RepliesThe issue I'm having is the A/C. When I got the truck the A/C was completely freezing. Recently however, the compressor was having issues not engaging and I fixed that by simply plugging the cord to the accumulator thing. . Now the compressor engages, but is not cooling really at all. It is an old truck and the compressor is a little worn from what I see maybe 2mm space when not engaged. I checked the levels of freon/coolant with a gauge and the amount is perfectly fine. Plus there seems to be no leaks.
View 1 RepliesI have a 94 Ranger with 2.3L motor. Last week my ac quit working. I push the in and the ac light goes on, but the compressor clutch won't engage. I changed the relay, but that didn't work. The fan still works, but the ac does not come on. I tried banging on the compressor pulley, but that didn't do anything. The clutch is not frozen -- it spins freely. The connector looks good and I haven't done any work in the engine compartment so I couldn't have accidentally moved any wiring. What I might try or is my compressor simply dead?
View 2 RepliesThe Truck: 94 F-150 XLT 5-speed 300-I6
The Problem: AC blowing hot air.
What I've done: Start the truck, look at the compressor, (looks like it's spinning to me), engage the AC, look again (yep the pully on the compressor is still spinning).
And that's pretty much where i stopped, cause i don't know what i'm looking for, should i be seeing it not spin if it where seized, and whats next on the list to check.
I assume that it's not seized at this point and it must be something else, like a control, keeping it from working.
Simultaneously driver door lock switch does not work but door lock when shifting into drive and when shifting into park. RR passenger door lock is jammed, cannot move electrically or manually. All this at the same time!
View 1 Replies1994 geo tracker... I'm trying to get my A/C working, but I'm running into an electrical issue somewhere. The relays for the condenser fan and compressor are not activating, even though they are getting 12V when I switch on the A/C. I can run a jumper across where the relay would switch and both turn on and my A/C is cold, but it won't do it without the jumper. I've traced back from my battery to the A/C and checked my dual pressure switch, I'm slowly trying to pick out wires which may have fried.
Both relays work when connected to the battery alone. If I jump the 12V and ground on the harness for the compressor and the harness for the condenser fan, they kick on and A/C is cold. Fuses are good, dual pressure switch is good? It's almost like the relays aren't getting enough current to activate, one of them the switching signal reads only 4 V which is too low, that's for the fan. The compressor reads 12V though on the switch. When back probing them with the relay connected I only read 0.25 V, I don't know if that matters or not.
I have a '94 Chevy Suburban with a driver's side power window problem. The window will work for 5-10 seconds upon initial startup but once I stop and try to restart, the window won't do anything. If I pull up on the window while pressing the window switch it will start working again whereas I can let go of the window and keep the button depressed until I reach the desired level I want the window to be. At times I get nothing up or down by pressing the switch leading me to believe it's the motor. It seems to have the most trouble going up rather than down. I am not sure what the problem is, i.e. regulator, motor, electrical relay.
View 1 RepliesI had a small leak in my 94 Explorer which was getting on the compressor pulley and being splattered around the engine compartment. The fluid was green like antifreeze--which didn't make sense; why would antifreeze be leaking from the air con compressor? But as an experiment, I got a non-AC belt and ran the truck without the compressor pulley turning, and the leak has stopped! The level in the coolant overflow tank has dropped an inch or two in the last 500 or so miles. Is it possible that antifreeze is getting into the air con system somehow, like through an internal leak in the heater core?
View 10 RepliesPeriodically my 1994 Toyota Corolla 5-speed manual will not start. Other times it seems to hesitate before starting. The rest of the time it starts fine.
When it does not start: I turn the key, and hear the fuel pump relay click, and hear the fuel pump on the gas tank energize, but the car does not try to crank. I do not know if the starter solenoid is engaging at this time, as I could not listen for it while in the car. When I did try to listen for it while under the hood with someone else starting the car, it actually started (did not exhibit the issue)
When it hesitates before starting: However, sometimes, when I turn the key I hear the fuel pump relay click and the fuel pump energize, after about 1-1/2 seconds of holding the key, it does start.
When it does start it sounds normal, not like a low battery. The battery is new. I had the charging system checked at Advance Auto and they said the battery was good as was the alternator and starter. Plenty of cranking amps.
I disconnected the main wire on the starter motor and cleaned it with a wire brush. I also cleaned up the battery terminals.
I did find that the switch on the clutch pedal that allows the car to start when pressed has some fluid leaking on it (clutch fluid I think). Could that be causing the intermittent starting issue? If so, can I just clean it with WD-40 or something like that?