Gmc - Suburban :: 1991 - Fuse Keeps Getting Blown
Nov 14, 2011
My fuse keeps getting blown, mechanically and emotionally. My 91 gmc suburban blows the a/c fuse every time i slide the a/c switch to any position. when the fuse goes my emergency brake light turns on and my speedometer stops working. one weird note, my engine seems to run very smooth after the fuse goes, to the point that im not even sure its running but it is. So my question is, where should i start looking to fix the problem? It's too hot/cold in here!"
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This morning everything worked on a 1999 Suburban 4x4. One hour later, my blinkers (turn signals) were not working. Flashers were.
I checked the fuse (fuse 16) for the turning signals - blown. I bought some fuses - replaced turn signal fuse. It blew immediately and then the hazards no longer worked. I replaced that fuse and the hazards lasted a few seconds.
Hazards & brake lights are on the same fuse (fuse 1) so I am left with no brake lights, hazards or turn signals - I am an accident waiting to happen!
I switched my cigarette lighter fuse for the hazards/brake light fuse - didn't start the car - and turned on the hazards. I heard the fuse blow immediately.
My husband put a new radio in last year at this time and has fog lights wired to it - but that was last year not last week...
I know trailer lights are attached to fuse 16 (turn signals). I bought this car used, but it does have a trailer hitch with wires that I have never used.
Where to even start looking for the short... a short that would cause the hazards/brake lights to short out also.
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I had a slight head butting contest with a deer. My driver side AIR BAG BLEW OUT. I want to replace the air bag. ( I live in N.C. air bags are NOT required) so I don't care if it is functional. I just want it there un-blown, for looks. I've been told that a special tool is required to remove the old one ( and the one in a salvage truck I've located). What tool I need? Or what it might be called or where I can get one????
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My 04 Chevy suburban blows cold for about 15 minutes then turns hot...sometimes it will turn back cold, but not lately
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1991 suburban randomly dies while driving..... I will only have headlights and interior lights.... no other power .....wait 5-10 minutes fires right up.
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My work horse is singing me the blues. It will idle correctly for 1 - 2 sec., then approach death, then idle correctly again for 1 - 2 seconds. It responds as expected when the throttled of opened for 1 - 2 seconds, any longer it will begin to die. This is what I have done so far.
1. Changed the fuel filter. Did not check to see of water was in the filter as I only purchase gas from name brand gas stations. Did not think I could get bad gas from them.
2. Check MAP sensor, voltage signals were close. Changed it out any way. No change.
3. Checked the Engine Coolant Sensor, it is sending the correct voltage.
4. Checked the Idle Air Control Valve. The impedance is as called for in the Chilton repair manual.
5. Checked the Throttle Position Sensor. It appears to be sending the correct voltage as the throttle is opened and closed.
6. Overhauled the Fuel Pressure Regulator. Replaced the spring, diaphragm, and gaskets.
7. Overhauled the Throttle Body. Removed the injector, cleaned all passages with solvent and compressed air. Did not soak the injectors.
In my mind, all that is left is the fuel pump or maybe I did get bad gas.
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I have a '91 suburban (1/2 ton, 5.7 TBI) starts,idles and revs great, stumbles at most minimal throttle(parking lot speed) replaced cap, rotor, plugs, wires, filters. Ran injector cleaner thru it, swapped TBI with a known to be working unit...
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Every couple of days, my 20 amp cigarette lighter fuse (#13) will blow. It is connected to the lumbar seats, the cigarette lighter, the interior door lock switches (not the key FOB - that is separate). I've tried using a 25 amp and that didn't work.
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My '99 Suburban 350 with the autotrac 4wd is having electrical problems. The transfer case fuse always blows. I thought it may be the transfer case shift motor, so I took it out and tried and the fuse still blew. I tested the pins on the fuse, and sure enough they are shorted together, but only when the car turns on.
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What would cause the air bag fuse to blow as soon as I turn on the ignition?
Have tried replacing the fuse and this happens (fuse blows out) each time.
95 3.8L... nearly fully rebuilt.
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So I have an Android smartphone. That I always put on the charger in my 2005. However. I have blown the fuse to the cigarette lighter. Both the one in the center console and the one under the passenger side dashboard.
The last time that happened. I bought the indicated 15 Amp fuse (as the Owner's Manual indicates - vaguely) Only to find that swapping out fuse 20 IIRC. Yielded no power to those ports.
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Just picked up a 1994 1.8 celica hatch and it was told to me that the 100 amp alternator fuse blew and there was some issue. So far haven't found any but I also cant seem to find this 100 amp alt fuse that goes in the fuse box under the hood. I don't have old one.
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So I added in a set of LED lights for my license plate and parking lights. In addition to HID's for the headlights tonight. At some point my tails/parking & license plate lights shut off. I assume its a fuse, I'm wondering if this is common or the result of low quality product.
I've used the same installer/lights on every car I've had for the last 5 yrs and never an issue. No issues in my Scion Xd, Mustangs and so on.
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I don't use my horn unless absolutely necessary. Well, today it was. Guess what? The Sounds of Silence. No horn, no how.
Turned out, the No. 16 fuse was, in fact, blown. What caused that, I don't have a clue. Replaced it and it is working again. Hopefully, not a harbinger of electrical gremlins to come.
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I was installing my LED interior light kit from deautokey and I'm pretty sure I blew a fuse. No interior lights are working now. I found the fuse box but which fuse controls interior lighting circuit.
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The check engine light popped up and I assumed it was due to my exhaust because my engine runs great and I have no fluid loss. However I got an error 03:0. I decided to clear it and see if it pops up again. Well. when I went to reset the code, the meter fuse blew. It took out most of my dash board gages and my car was stuck in 3rd or 4th gear. I changed the fuse and it blew again 3 more times. Ended up doing the unwise thing of putting a 15a fuse in until I solve the issue. I didn't see any pins touching on the ODB port, so I am baffled why it keep blowing now.
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I have a 91 celica st and my efi fuse keeps blowing. i would like to know what the efi fuse controls, or what to check first.
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I have a 2002 Camry... So I stupidly connected the battery backwards, negative to positive, etc... Now there's no electrical at all, no dashboard lights, nothing. I see the 100a fuse is blown. Does this signify that the rest of my car was protected ? Will replacing that fuse probably fix the problem or when the battery is connected backwards does the rest of the electric get fried as well ?
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I experienced some weirdness trying to jump start a friends 2001 Prius and the 100 amp fuse got blown. I read the user manual and am pretty positive that I did not reverse polarity on the auxiliary battery, with the jumper cables. But as soon as I hooked up the cables the headlights and taillights came on, as well as both turn signal lights steady on, and I couldn't turn them off. I checked and checked. The key wasn't in. All the headlight switches were off. I just couldn't figure it out. After trying to let the auxiliary battery charge for a while this way, the car was still totally dead and it was weird and I gave up.
The next day my friend called AAA and they couldn't start it either. But she said they were pretty clueless, refusing to believe at first that the battery was in the trunk, and suspects maybe they reversed the polarity on the cables when they tried to jump it. She didn't see the headlights come on this time (although it was now during the day).
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I have a 1995 Honda civic. It blew the PGM-fi fuse after installing a working horn. Then the car wouldn't turn off. It was In Park I removed the key and the engine and brake lights were still on. When I completely disconnect the gauge assembly the car will then shut off with the key. When the gauge assembly is connected engine won't shut off, brake lights stay on and speedometer won't work. I read a few tips in an online form- I tried unplugging the alternator while the car was in off position (engine still running) this had no effect.
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Toyota Celica 1993 has been in the shop for 7 weeks and now the shop says they have no idea how to fix the car. Car blows a fuse when the car is started. Replace fuse; try again and fuse blows.
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