Why has my vehicle started making this loud clanging noise when shifting gears? (Automatic) It sounds like someone is hitting a wrench against the metal, most notably between Reverse and Drive. Also, the body of the vehicle is noticeably lower on one side with no flat tires.
View 1 Repliessometimes when i switch from 1st to 2nd or 2nd to 3rd i get a loud popping noise like my exhaust is hitting the under side of the center column. I have had the car on a lift and shook the hell out of the exhaust...it's not moving enough to cause that loud popping...so i figured it could possibly be the dogbone mount gone and the downpipe is hitting when i shift because the mount is bad?
Or could it be one of the other mounts...I'm going through a divorce right now and really really broke so i need to make sure i get the right one and fix it right the first time. What mount it is if not positive its the dogbone?
So I had been noticing a bit of wheel hop in third gear before my UM flash. Just got the flash a few days ago, and I love it. But since then two things have arisen:
- When sitting at idle, the car vibrates. I can feel it through the brake/gas pedals and steering wheel. I didn't notice it prior to the UM tune. It's like an undulating feeling even more than a vibration.
- When upshifting, I now seem to get a clanging sound/feeling if I upshift anywhere less than about 3200 RPMs. It doesn't always happen, and it won't happen if I'm really fast with engaging the clutch after taking my foot off the gas. But it is disconcerting.
Prior to the tune, I had gotten used to the sort of bucking and whatnot when you let off the gas and learned how to shift to minimize it. But now it isn't as easy to do a mellow, smooth upshift under 3000 RPM's...i.e. if I just want to pull away slowly from a stop. My question is, do these sound like symptoms of bad motor mounts? The car has just under 25k miles on it. The mounts are all stock. I was wondering if the UM tune was just enough extra power to put one or more of them over the edge.
Lately when shifting gears, there's this clunking noise as I let off the clutch. It happens more often than not when I'm in traffic and I upshift without giving any gas on the clutch release. Currently got 13k km on my car.
View 1 RepliesI have a noise that has been driving me crazy for a week now. After some investigation I have discounted a few things. To sum up the noise, it seems to be coming from under the vehicle, maybe the passenger rear. It sounds kinda like a jack hammer and it is loud. People on the street can hear it well! There is no consistency in it. I do not here it standing still and it only appears when I am driving. The speed does not matter.
While driving, it will come and go, it will last from 5 seconds to up to 30 seconds. While driving along, it starts, then stops abruptly without dying down. The speed of the "knocking" will follow the speed of the vehicle. If Im going slow (20 mph) it will knock at a slower pace, thus going 65, it is 2 a second. There is nothing loose, I have ruled that out.
Although it does sound like something loose and hitting. I can feel it slightly on the floorboard under the pedals and passenger side. I have to believe it is the rear u-joint? but that was replaced 2 years ago, and I have never heard of a u-joint making this noise.
I have a 1996 bmw z3 and theres bunch of problems with itone the transmission makes makes a loud noise when switching gears usually first, also you press the gas and it takes couple seconds for the car to accelerate.also when foot is on the brake the car will surge forward or accelerate i was told by bmw that the value cover gasket needs to be replaced cause its leaking oil the air mass meter needs to be replaced i was told by one mechanic this could be why the transmission is having problems or it could be the transmission needs to be replaced ~ any truth to this that the air mass meter could be causing problems with the tranny?? also the os sensor needs to be replaced the check engine light is on....so my question is that could all of these problems be causing transmission issues. There are other problems as well including power issues with the battery, stalling mostly because i havent been driving it also the ac doesnt work but heat does.
View 7 RepliesI've got my 2013 sonata and have noticed over the past couple weeks that after the car has sat for a while and I shift out of park that it makes a thunk/shifting sound that's coming from right below the car. I think it's coming from the gear shaft but I'm not a car expert so I can't be sure, it's more prevalent when I shift into reverse. What it could be? The car is still completely under warranty so I'm fine with making it the dealer's problem.
View 6 RepliesI have been hearing a rattling or maybe more a banging clanging sound coming from the right rear of my 2007 3 door accent. It almost sounds like something is loose, but I have never identified anything. The tire tools are secure and there are no loose panels either.
It almost sounds like the strut is banging around. My wife did bend the rim on the right rear a couple of years ago. I thought maybe the sway bar was broke, until I realized this car doesn't have one.
My jeep just got it back and the transmission ain't slipping in drive but it's not shifting. I can drive it in drive but does not shift? Also I had the piston rings all done and head got it back like that and i am mad because wen i took it to him to have it fixed the transmission was working fine. Then i took it back to him and he said he did not touch the transmission.
View 6 RepliesI thought my transmission was not going into 2 gear, but it is. But it ain't going into 1st gear. Just found out today.
View 2 RepliesI recently leased a 2013 RX 350 and started hearing a weird loud noise almost in the first week itself. It seems to happen whenever I shift the gears from Reverse to Drive. The loud noise comes from the back of the car and anyone sitting in the car (speakers turned off) can hear/feel it. It seems to be worse in the morning (or when the engine is cold).
I took it to the lexus service center and the person told me something about differential pressure, which I really didn't understand:-). However, he said nothing can be done and its not a safety issue and sent me back home without any fix. I have driven many cars in my life so far and never ever came across something like this. Is it something normal at all?
So I cold started our V today and the electric motor turned on. When it switched over to the gas motor when I turned the heat on in the car, there was a violent plastic on plastic clunking or clanging type of noise. Sounded like something sheered itself off the motor. Then after about 5 seconds, it went away. Drove the car for a while, no check engine lights, no other weird noises, no problems. Engine seems like it has been ticking a bit in all this cold weather but I figure it was just lifter noise so I ignored it. Car is a 2012 with approximately 17k miles on it. Going to try to see if the same thing happens when I cold start it tomorrow morning in the frigid air. Car just had its 15k service and the dealer said it was perfect.....I don't get it. This noise was freaking loud. We LOVE this car btw...never thought I would say this about a hybrid because I am a HP nut, but this is the best, most functional car we have ever owned so far.
View 5 RepliesI was climbing up a hill on the highway, and I was aware of my issue by the time I hit the top of the hill - my car far into the red zone on the temp gauge.
I pulled over just after i got off, let it cool for a few minutes, check oil and coolant and they seemed fine (from what i could, but it was dark. Drove home because it was only a few mins away, and it had cooled a bit already, but it started sounding really weird at low rpms (1200-1500) almost a clanging noise.
Just as i was pulling into my driveway, there were a whole bunch of weird noises, and at least one of them was me losing coolant from the cap. Turned off the car and the coolant overflow box was completely full, and the radiator cap had leaked some too.
Some other things i noticed - sounded like boiling water inside the large hoses, hoses felt empty, and the coolant box emptied all of a sudden after the hoses sucks everything back up.
I can drive below 40 mph and nothing, once I hit the freeway engine light turns on and gears start slipping. I erase the code and it runs fine at first this would happen once in a while but lately its every time I get on the freeway. I cant keep driving and erasing the code, Every shop says I need to replace the transmission?
View 4 RepliesI have about 2000 miles on a new V-8 and there seems to be a loud tingy noise if I really get on it say above 4500 revs either driving or in park. It seems to be coming from either the catalytic converter or exhaust area. It is a very metallic clanging noise that is very audible outside the vehicle under heavier throttle positions, almost like a metal plate hitting another piece of metal.
2004 T-Reg V-8, Black, Conv, Xenons, Park, 19's,SS2
I have a 2006 Subaru Forester automatic with about 40,000 miles on it. When it gets cold out, I notice that when I first start driving the car, it jerks/lurches and makes a loud noise when shifting from first to second and second to third. When the car warms up after driving for awhile, it doesn't do it anymore. It's much colder here (high today of zero), the car is doing this much more often. I brought it to the dealer and they completely flushed the transmission fluid (which they said looked yellow instead of red/orange??), but it is still making the noise and having trouble shifting in the cold. They said need to take the transmission apart, so I've been leary about taking it back. My husband thinks I should just drive it until it dies and then get a new transmission if needed.
View 1 RepliesMy 06 3.3 is having a problem with the pulleys. A few days ago something squealed, like a loose belt squeal. I put it off, then when I started it up this morning, I heard a clanging noise coming from the engine, and the battery light turned on. I checked everything out and saw that there is a pulley broken off which is rattling around the crankshaft pulley. I figured it was a pulley that had broken off, but all 7 pulleys in the car are present and accounted for. Incidentally, the serpentine belt is way loose, which would be why the car lost power and eventually died. Am I completely lost or did an 8th pulley magically appear in my engine.
View 4 RepliesMy 2001 Suburban, 1500, 5.3L, 2WD with 164k miles, has a problem with high idle and delayed shifting. The high idle occurs when the vehicle has been driven around for awhile. When I start it up, even when already warm, idle is normal (~600 rpm). After some time, however, it idles at 900 to 1100 rpm. The delayed shifting happens right away--almost like I have the tow/haul mode turned on.
I have cleaned out the idle air port, cleaned the MAF sensor, replaced the idle air control valve, replaced the PCV valve, replaced the engine temperature sensor, and unhooked the battery to reset things. It still idles high.
I first noticed this a few weeks ago when the battery died. After I put in the new battery, the idle was very low. So I cleaned out the idle air port and valve. Then it was high. I drove it around for a few days like that and then started replacing stuff, to no avail--still high. I also cleaned around the throttle plate.
I recently changed the clutch in my 1967 F 250, all was golden. This was about 5 months ago , just the other day when going from 2nd to 3rd gear there is a clang and popping feel. the truck was making similar noises before the clutch blew out causing me to change it last time.
View 1 Repliesi have a 1988 toyota camry that has 205000 on it and for some reason while driving the o/d will start to blink and the tranny will stop shifting and loce alot of power was wondering if it is a sensor or if i have to replace the tranny? the car is a 4 cly. with what toyota call the four speed deluxe
View 4 RepliesNew truck 11000kms ago thats done medium amount of work but nothing heavy or sustained for long periods of time. I get the feeling of clutches slipping especially when truck is cold but also when normal temps. Doesnt make any weird noises or anything. I can really notice the difference in torque if in manual mode being much better, but still not perfect if i stomp on the gas pedal and go through the gears in manual mode will still slip. Also is really harsh shift if i come to a halt in 3rd manual mode with the brake pedal depressed push minus button the truck makes very loud clunk noise into gear 2 then 1. Took it to ford they couldnt find anything ? Thinking of trying another dealer.
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