Gmc - Sierra1500 :: When AC Is On, Sound Like Pressure Escaping From Air Tank
Apr 12, 2013
My 2002 GMC Sierra, when the AC is on, occasionally makes a sound like pressure escaping from an air tank. Sometimes it doesn't do it at all, like when I take it to the dealer to get fixed, and other times it does it every 30 seconds or so. It's worse in hot weather, but I've had it do it in the winter when the Defrost (and AC) is on. It sounds like an Air Compressor that has a broken regulator and builds up too much pressure and releases the pressure. The sound only lasts for about 1/2 a second, but it's fairly loud. It's coming from under the hood, because it is very loud when driving slow with the windows down. It will do it at all speeds, and is very annoying. We're planning on taking this truck to the Grand Canyon this summer, so I'm hoping to figure it out. My wife says we should just buy a new truck.
View 5 Replies
Advertisement
I recently bought a 1998 GMC Seira with over 211,000 miles on it. On the way home I noticed that the oil pressure was low when I stopped for red lights. Can this mean anything other that a bad oil pump?
View 19 Replies
I have a 1992 Mitsubishi 3000gt VR-4 (Twin turbo)
Last night I was driving.. not even pushing my car or anything. I go through 1st gear fine, then when I hit second, out of nowhere I hear this loud air escaping sound come from under the hood around 3000rpms. As I went up in rpms, the sound just got louder, so I shifted quick.
It sounded like if I just tried to go through it, it would explode or something. I looked this up and found somewhere it said to try tightening the clamps on everything under the hood, so I did that. None of them were loose but I did tighten them a lot.
I also looked at my (boost?) gauge (gauge on the far right in the car) and it seemed like it was stuck at halfway and moved very little when I was driving. I was going to have a person try to feel where the air was coming from when I revved it in neutral but it doesn't seem to do it in neutral..
Never heard it before and I need to figure this out as soon as possible. Trying to sell my car and this happens..
View 5 Replies
Well, since I replaced the MAP hose a few weeks ago the old girl has been running fine. Until yesterday. I was leaving work and she had low boost, less than 10PSI, and as I passed by a parked tractor trailer I could hear the sound of high pressure air escaping because I had my window rolled down.
So today I checked it out. I found three possible leaks spots, BUT no "smoking gun". Take a look at the pics. The damage you are seeing is on the outside of the hot side boot at the turbo and the bottom of the cold side CAC tube. The cracks don't appear to penetrate to the inside. Could these still be possible leak sites? IDK.
I'm going to order replacements anyway. Ford wants WAY to much for these parts. I checked the MAP hose and it is just like new from several weeks ago. Also, I inspected the inter-cooler as best that I can without removing it. I don't see any issues with the tanks or the tank-to-core mounting. It all looks normal. If it does fail where does it normally fail at?
View 14 Replies
I've just bought a new accent 2014 car, I noticed a sound like air escaping coming from the back near the rear wheel, the sounds is continuous, it doesn't stop till the car is turned off, the AC was not turned off, my friend told me that it could the brakes but the sound is coming with and without pushing the brake pedals. Is this normal for a new car or I should go and got it checked ? If it not normal what could it be ?
View 15 Replies
I have the code P0453 set and believe I need to replace the fuel tank pressure sensor. I have the part and want to know if this part can be replaced without removing the fuel tank. There is a video on youtube that shows replacing the part by lowering the tank with a transmission jack after the straps have been removed. Replacing the sensor by touch and feel maybe using mirrors to see what you are doing? It might be possible to cut a hole in the bed and patch it later but that seems pretty time consuming too.
View 1 Replies
My wife has a 2005 Equinox and we discovered an oil residue in the coolant pressure tank. I wanted to diagnose the problem myself and hopefully rule out a blown head gasket. I flushed the system and replaced the hoses that had began to break down. I dove the car for a while and let it sit overnight. Sure enough the oil came back. This time it was blackish put couldn't really tell. The 3400 engine in the Equinox has no pressure on the top of the engine while running so transmission cooler must be the culprit. I ordered a new radiator and the broke one sat in the shop over the weekend and while it was there it drained. The milky fluid leaked out and separated from the coolant. I then knew it was trans fluid because it was red after separating. Changed the radiator and the problem is fixed. One thing I did learn is head gasket doesn't mean engine killer.
View 6 Replies
Under acceleration I hear a weird noise coming from the front right side of the car. Almost sounds like if air is escaping from a tube or something of that matter. Only mod I've done is the noise pipe delete. I made sure when I did it that everything was put together tightly and securely. What it may be or is this a normal sound? It's not the turbo spool, it's DURING acceleration.
View 24 Replies
Just bought a new 2011 gmc sierra 1500. I am getting a vibration at 40 to 60 mph. Brought truck back to the dealership at 400 miles and they re-balanced all 4 tires. Didn't work. The second time back they had the car for a week and told me they sent the tires out to be road forced balanced that this should take care of the problem. I now have the truck back and it is vibrating even worst than before. There are 20 inch tires and rims on the truck. The truck now has 1400 miles on it. What could be going on?
View 7 Replies
The manual for the 450H does not agree with what I am experiencing.
1. The Manual says the fuel capacity is 17 gal, but with an empty tank the most I can put the tank is around 14 gallons. What is the real capacity, and why does the manual say 1y7 gallons.
2. For my 450H with 19 inch wheels the manual says tire pressure should be 33 psi. However, when delivered from the factory the tire were 39 psi. What should the tire capacity be?
There seems to examples throughout the manual of conflicting information.
View 4 Replies
I am currently stage 2, drive my car kind of aggressive on a regular basis, and now I hear a squeal under high boost, sounds like air escaping. Boost is not acting any different, I've come to the conclusion that the problem is most likely my revision D DV.
-What does failing REV D sound like???
View 13 Replies
Have an 02 Camry 4 cylinder. The car retains pressure overnight in the radiator - the morning after driving the release of the radiator cap produces air bubbles in the over flow tank and a noticeable hiss of air from the filler neck. Car is not running hot and no CELs. Fluid is not being pulled into the radiator from reservoir after driving due to high pressure.
Here's what I have checked so far:
Exhaust - no white smoke
Oil - Looks fine no evidence of antifreeze
Replaced radiator cap
Hoses and clamps appear to be good
No fluid leaks found
Compression - all cylinders 145 psi +/- 1 psi
Exhaust gases in radiator - no evidence, fluid remained blue after test
Bleed air from system - was hearing the "waterfall" noise from within dashboard when accelerating. Put car on ramps, took rad cap off and ran for 45 minutes. Saw lots of big air bubbles at first then bubbles stopped. The overnight pressure retention stopped for about 2 weeks / 150 miles - but now has returned.
So it seems clear that air is being pulled into the radiator from somewhere. Beginning to think I have a small head gasket leak that is not showing any other signs. Any other potential source that could cause air to be pulled into the radiator?
View 14 Replies
This one should be easy but I feel the need to check. Lately the brakes on my GMC sierra pick up truck has been sticking. Not badly but ever so little. Seems to happen most when it has been parked and when i put it into drive it doesn't move. If I let it sit there for a moment the brakes release and it does just fine after that. If I hit the gas and go I get the same result. what do you think? Calipers??
View 12 Replies
My 2000 GMC Sierra truck is in great shape at 150,000+ miles with one exception. Road noise has become so loud that my wife and I have to practically shout to carry on a conversation at speeds above 40-45 MPH. Is there an after-market fix to improve the situation?
View 8 Replies
I have an '02 GMC,Sierra,4.8 L 5-speed,once upon a time this truck would easily travel over 500 miles on a full tank of fuel, for the first 10 years ,on a road trip ( which I do every summer), approx.,210 miles one way, this truck would still have just over 1/2 tank of fuel, as of the summer of 2012, the thing used up to 3/4's of a tank.
Then the service engine light came on, I replaced all sensors, O2's new injectors, motorvac, new plugs ,wires etc,( All done by a certified ASE mechanic). After his work the truck got back up to the aforementioned "good mileage", and the Service engine light went out...for awhile, now it is on again, as mentioned earlier, the truck has basically had a complete tune-up. So whats up with this ?? I sure hope I don't need to R/R the engine itself....
View 3 Replies
1995 Chevy Lumina 3.1L Sedan with ~182K mi
Over the past 6 months, I have noticed fuel odor just about any time I turn off the vehicle, and I am also experiencing progressively higher levels of fuel tank pressure each time I remove the fuel cap. The fuel tank pressure seems to be greater the lower the level of fuel in the tank whenever I remove the cap. 6 months ago (~Sept) it was only a slight "hissing" periodically when removing the cap to fuel up, but now it occurs at every fill up and seems to have enough pressure to push the cap entirely off had I not been careful to slowly loosen the cap to relieve the pressure.
The entire fuel pump and sending unit assembly in addition to the tank and filter were all replaced about 4 years ago in May 2010 or about 28K mi ago. The issue has just come up progressively over the last 6 months.
Today, I inspected the evap. emission components and lines from the tank to the canister to the purge solenoid mounted on the rear of the engine. All lines are connected and seem to be in operable condition. The line from the canister to the purge valve mounted on the engine is completely free with no obstructions. I blew out the line with compressed air and absolutely no exiting particulates were observed. The lines on the bottom of the canister did not show any signs of wet fuel and there were no carbon particles present in the lines from what I could tell from disconnecting and inspecting. The vapor line from the tank to the carbon canister is not kinked or pinched in any manner.
I believe there is a fuel vapor check valve that resides inside the tank connected to the fuel pump assembly/sending unit. This was all replaced as a single unit as mentioned above. I am thinking this check valve may not be functioning properly and not allowing the vapor to escape into the carbon canister. I tried to apply slight pressure and vacuum on the vapor line connected to the check valve on the tank but no air was able to move in or out even with the gas cap off. However, I do have a full tank of gas right now, so I imagine the check valve will be closed.
The check engine light is not on but since this is an OBDI vehicle I am not sure there are any evap. emission codes anyway.
How can I test the gas tank vapor check valve? How can I test the vapor purge solenoid located on the rear of the engine? What malfunctioning component could be causing the excessive fuel tank pressure.
View 9 Replies
It is the 2000 GTP 2 door. It is my sons car and is dead in front of my house. Changed the fuel filter as it is cheap to do. At the check valve there is no pressure in the fuel line. I turned it over with the hose off the filter it did not pump any fuel. I do hear a click or clunk in the gas tank when I turn it over suggesting it is getting power into the pump.
I almost went and bought a pump but do not really want to put the $230 + tax down without checking the resistor after reading around the net.
View 7 Replies
I'm having this weird problem with my car, 90% of the time it will start to run rich, until it reaches normal temp, to the point that I can smell it coming out from the exhaust. LTFT is at around -15% and it seems to go down after cruising for some time but will go back to negative at idle. My first suspect was the FPR so I checked it and found no gas smell on the vacuum hose, then I decided to run the engine with the vacuum hose disconnected and see if any fuel would come out, 5 minutes later and it was still dry.
There is a chance that the MAF sensor is bad, I'm 90% sure it is, because it will sometimes read 2.9-3.1 gps at idle and according to the rule of thumb of 1gps per liter of displacement, it shouldn't go that low but I might be wrong about it; I disconnected the MAF and the smell was still there, today while driving it was reading 5.45gps (A/C was on) and the smell was still present; car also feels sluggish from time to time only at normal operating temperature (which I assume is because of it running rich).
There is also a vibration felt through the steering wheel only while idling in gear at all temps. Today when I got home and after I turned off the engine I heard a noise like water was running. It was coming from the car so I tried to find where the noise was coming from and it's from the fuel tank. I removed the fuel cap and lots of air came out (or sucked in?). I reinstalled the cap and pressure started to build up almost immediately! I have a video, which I'm sharing, so you can see what I'm talking about; I was even able to hear the fuel tank expanding because of the pressure inside, not sure if you can hear it towards the end of the video (when I put the phone under the car). [URL] .....
It also happened today that I was cruising and the engine hit the rev limiter after I stepped on the gas (WOT) to overtake another car. I immediately removed the foot from the pedal and gave it less gas and it acted normal, no slipping from the transmission at any other time. There is one more thing that I'm not sure about it. Every morning, the engine will sputter for 1 or 2 seconds after starting it but it will be fine for the rest of the day. I once tried disconnecting different sensors from the engine and the only one that seemed to make a difference (it didn't sputter) was the TPS.
Things done so far:
- I replaced the EVAP purge solenoid (P0441 was present) back in february.
- Rubber pieces at charcoal canister also replaced, old ones were rotted to the point my hands would look black just by rubbing against the hoses.
- Upper intake manifold was also replaced by me in november last year.
- New NGK spark plugs and OEM spark plug wires last december.
- Cleaned the MAF sensor with MAF cleaner, no dice. Used brake clean, no change. It's a reman Cardone from autozone, which tells us it's 90% sure it's broken.
- New Duralast MAP sensor back in 2010 because a mechanic broke the original.
- 10qts transmission fluid and filter replacement 2 weeks ago.
- Fuel pump was also replaced back in 2009 maybe, can't remember the exact year. The old one would start making some kind of a hissing noise after prolonged driving.
NO DTC'S PRESENT. I once checked Mode $06 data with a mid-level scanner I have (AutoXray EZ-scan 6000) and saw a test had failed, I think it said something about the MAF and EGR. IHaven't connected my fuel pressure gauge tester. Since I can smell it running rich, I didn't think it would be necessary. I'm thinking that there could be a problem with the EVAP system that's causing the excessive pressure in the tank but I'm not sure what that could be. Is there any chance that the pressure is also causing the rich mixture?
View 7 Replies
VW Phaeton, 2004 W12, 104000 Miles, Park in garage, heard loud pop and air escaping front passenger side, I think it is the air shock or suspension.
View 4 Replies
Just bought a 2005 4.6Lused. There is a "air escaping" kind of noise during acceleration. It sounds just like the AC system does sometimes after you turn off an engine. I thought originally that it by be AC related, but doesn't appear to be. At steady speed, it goes away, but comes on again with the slightest bit more gas pedal. In cruise control, it cycles on and off when the cruise accelerates up a hill,, etc. The sound is on the driver's side apparently close to dash corner.
View 9 Replies
I recently had my ignition cylinder replaced at the dealer. Immediately after this repair, I noticed that several lights were out - lower left radio, lower left dashboard, lower left steering wheel control, some light controls, and drivers side daytime running light. I brought it back to the dealer, and they told me that it was a coincidence that all these bulbs burned out at once (and all on the lower left side) and is not related to their repair. I'm not convinced.
View 2 Replies
