Gmc - Sierra1500 :: Sticky Brakes - Car Does Not Move When Put It Into Drive
Feb 27, 2012
This one should be easy but I feel the need to check. Lately the brakes on my GMC sierra pick up truck has been sticking. Not badly but ever so little. Seems to happen most when it has been parked and when i put it into drive it doesn't move. If I let it sit there for a moment the brakes release and it does just fine after that. If I hit the gas and go I get the same result. what do you think? Calipers??
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Trying to figure out the best option to remedy some braking issues. One is the squishy pedal feel. It does not happen all the time, but sometimes I will notice that the pedal is "sagging" for lack of a better term, and when I let up on the pedal and press again, the point of action/effect seems to be much higher.
As for the pads, I'm also curious if new ones will work with the grab I've been feeling after leaving the car outside for a few days. I have completely stopped using my e-brake because if it rains or is wet to begin with, the pads seem to stick (I believe) to the rotors and I have to practically to a low rpm launch to get them unstuck. Then I hear a sort of bumpy feel like there is pad material stuck to the rotors. It usually fades after some highway driving and decent braking. I could have sworn it happened the other day with NO e-brake engaged though, so I really don't know what is going on.
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Replaced break pads, calipers and master cylinder...still breaks sticking parts were replaced 3 weeks ago and are worn already.
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My car is a 2011 BMW 328i Coupe, currently at 24K mi. Recently i found my cars brake pedal get sticky after Ive applied the brakes from time to time. But nothing server. My routine schedule maintenance will be coming up soon, so i am just wondering what could be the probable cause. Could it be the brake fluid?
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It is 10 degrees now (-12 C). I softly engaged the clutch and noticed the car wasn't moving. I tapped on the gas lightly and the car was trying to move, but couldn't. I finally gave it a lot of gas and there was a huge POP sound. When I park my car, I leave e-brake engaged. Are brakes suppose to stick that bad in cold weather? The Pop sounded like a .45 Pistol!!
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Bought a high mileage 99 f150 4x4 yesterday. In the process of cleaning her up, the water hose hit the disc brakes on the drivers side and it was hotter than a BBQ grill! Ok, immediately I thought this isn't good. Jacked her up and pulled the caliper. Pads were almost gone so replaced them with a new set, went for a drive. Now the damn things were smoking so bad I thought they were gonna catch fire! Sticky caliper , right? Stopped and got one then realized that the passenger side started doing it too.
Another trip for the other caliper and new pads because these were toast. I mean just burnt to hell. Before I started working on the truck again, I checked on here and I'll be darned if I didn't find out that the old brake hoses might be acting like a check valve because of rust and deterioration. Got a set of brakes hoses too. Put everything on this morning and works like a charm.
1999 4.6 XL
Passenger side done
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Truck moves fine in reverse but won't move in drive it is an automatic transmission...
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I have a 2000 Excursion 2wd 7.3 diesel. Drove it an hour yesterday and drove fine. Got home and decided to check the mail so I put it in park, left it running and got the mail. Jumped back in and put it in drive and it would not move. Tried 1 and 2 and would not move. Put it in reverse and it barely moved.
I turned the vehicle off and back on. Put it in drive and it drove fine like nothing happened. Same thing happened today. Turned it off and back on and it worked fine again. It happened a 3rd time when I stopped put it in park and back in drive but I was able to move in drive once I revved it up a bit.
As long as it is in drive like at a red light with your foot on the brake it is fine but if you put it in park and then go to drive it wont move unless you turn the vehicle off and back on. The fluid is full, red and no burnt smell. Maybe converter or ???? Is it ok to drive i this way???
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My 2002 lincoln ls v8 140k miles doesn't move when put into reverse or drive 5 or even d4,3,2,1 , it just starts to roll back/forward when taken out of park. It has the gear selector with d5, d4,3,2,1 not the select shift. I was told needs new transmission, but before it stopped moving completely it was still driveable second slipped at lower speeds(mostly when looking for parking or in traffic).
I had made an appointment to bring my car to the shop and the same day is when it stopped moving. All this happen within a week during the week i constantly got an e where d5 was and on last day check engine light came on.
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My problem is that my explorer, 130,000 miles will not engage in any gear while in 2 wheel drive or 4H. Truck will only engage in 4L. And when it does engage in 4L it hesitates and jumps into gear, especially drive. Also takes some doing to get it out of 4L. While truck is in 2 wheel and in drive, my speedometer reads about 20 mph with truck not moving. It does not do it in reverse. Also gears will grind when I attempt to put vehicle back in park because of it registering that I'm doing 20. Dropped pan and changed tranny fluid and filter. No change. Also not hearing transfer case engaging while I shift between auto, 4H and 4L. Really need this truck fixed ASAP, and need to do repairs myself.
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I have a 2008 GS350. Been having brake clicking when I move from reverse to drive and lately been happening more when driving regularly. Brought it in to Lexus to get the complimentary 19-point inspection and they said I needed new brake pads and rotors. I did do a search and found it can be issues with front spindles, sway bar, bushings.
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I replaced the front hubs and bearings on my brothers 2002 Camry today. He drove less than a block and developed awful grinding noise and it won't move in reverse or drive. It rolls when I put it in park. I had to pull it back into my shop. Is it possible the inner CV came loose and i didn't realize it? It all seemed to go back together fine. The new CV axle nuts were quite tight and slow to put on with my impact gun.
What else could possible go kaput when I re & re hub/bearings? And what a long ugly job to replace those bearings. Don't even think about doing this without a good hydraulic press. Up to the point of getting knuckle off, it was easy job.
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The oil pressure gauge in my 04 v8 treg doesn't move until I drive it for about 15 minutes. Is this normal?? When THE BEAST is idling it takes about 15 minutes to pass 60 on the oil pressure gauge. I find this very odd.
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I just changed my oil in my mk4 jetta 1.8L and after draining the oil, changing filer, and adding new oil, the car will not move in drive or reverse. Once I give it gas it will move but that's at the higher rpms. I am almost positive I didn't remove the transmission oil but I am just not sure.
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2003 Maxda 6 automatic transmission with 167k miles and in the past 2 days has been slow to move forward when placed in the drive position. Only happens when first starting after sitting cold all night and after sitting all day after work. The fluid level is good and clean with no "burnt" smell nor signs of metallic particles. Are the bands getting loose? If so, are they adjustable without removing transmission? Do they have to be replaced and at what cos? Is there another issue occurring?
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I just did a motor swap on a 2003 with 3.5 auto tranny and awd. engine runs great and every thing is running fine. Only problem is that the trans will not create any power. With no drive shafts on it still wont move the splines. With that said the trans was driving/running great b4 the swap.
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When I started my car and put it in reverse, it didn't move. It felt like my front, right wheel was in a divet or was being blocked somehow (intuitively it seemed like if I accelerated enough, it would eventually move, but since there was nothing physically stopping it - that I could see - I didn't want to break something by doing that). I tried putting it in drive and neutral and the same issue was still there. I put the car up on a jack and checked one wheel at a time - I could move each wheel completely around in both directions.
I could move the steering wheel all the way to the right and to the left. I tried turning off the 4-wheel drive and that didn't do anything. At this point I'm concerned it could be the transmission or the drive shaft, but I'm not sure what to look for in order to know if I need to get it towed to a shop (hoping I can avoid this) or if there's a simple test I can do, or a way to "reset" something if it may be locked. I haven't had anything happen to the car that would have been of concern.
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I have a 1998 f150 4x4, the truck has not been driven in a few years and it’s been outside in my driveway up on jack stands. I just rebuilt the front end and did a four wheel break job, after getting the truck off the jack stands, I can't get it to move in drive or reverse. I also noticed that when you go from reverse to park the gears grind and I can't even get it to shift into 4H. I checked the tranny fluid and it is fine, also the tranny was just rebuilt a few years before I stopped driving the truck.
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I been working on this unit and I running into this
no foward
no reverse
no foward in and gear at all
I have to check pump pressure
I'm changing fluid and filter
1994 F53 460 CID will not move in drive or reverse - iRV2 Forums
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My 1998 Volvo V70R with only 53,000 miles (I'm the original owner) has picked up a problem. It started a year ago and seems to occur only when I do not let the car warm up for a few or several minutes: once I put the car into drive and start to move -- no matter how slowly -- a loud, high speed whirring sound begins. It will last for a minute or two and then stop. The speed of the whirring is constant and is not affected by how fast I drive or even if I come to a stop. It happens in both cold and hot temperatures. The whirring does not occur if I start the car and just let it idle and warm up. The loudness of the sound is such that it can be distracting to pedestrians 40 feet away. Changing the oil hasn't worked. More recently, the noise sometimes reoccurs in the middle of a drive. It always occurs when I start the car after it's been sitting for a few hours or more.
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I have a 1997 ford aerostar van that i recently acquired through some family,when i got it it was running fine but has recently started having troubles.The Question i have is this i put my car in drive or reverse and push the gas pedal the car doesn't move.....we have tried putting transmission fluid into it and that worked temporarily. What it could be except just a bad transmission?
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