Gmc - Sierra1500 :: 2006 - Dashboard Bulbs Mysteriously Burned Out
Jan 10, 2012
I recently had my ignition cylinder replaced at the dealer. Immediately after this repair, I noticed that several lights were out - lower left radio, lower left dashboard, lower left steering wheel control, some light controls, and drivers side daytime running light. I brought it back to the dealer, and they told me that it was a coincidence that all these bulbs burned out at once (and all on the lower left side) and is not related to their repair. I'm not convinced.
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I tried to convert the bulbs in my dashboard with LED bulbs..and it worked for about a month and stop working..then about a week after not having any dash lights. They came back on...but like a strobe, but not all the time..... And then it'll be fine? I'm also looking Into doing a taillight conversion to LEDs.
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I've got a light burned out on my dashboard. No big deal (it still gets some light from an adjacent bulb) but just out of curiosity: How big a nightmare would it be to replace a lightbulb in the dash of a 2001 F-250 XL?
Do you have to pull the motor/trans and lift the cab off the frame like I've been told you need to do to replace a heater core? Local mechanics laughed at that job and told me to get some stop leak...
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I have a 1998 Sienna (at 300k miles I want to drive until it’s dead) and the dashboard has lost illumination in several bulbs. The fuses are good and the bulbs seem fine, but there is a bad connection somewhere. I would like to start cleaning contacts in some of the junctions before tearing the dash apart again.
Which brings me to the big question: where should I look for connections that I can clean so I am sure the electrical system is providing a proper current to the dash bulbs? Besides the idiot lights (working), all I have at the moment is a single bulb that illuminates half the speedometer, while the tach and rest of the dash and air conditioning controls are dark.
As I’ve had other wiring harness connections become corroded and need cleaning over time, need to determine where to begin opening connections to clean before tearing the dash apart.
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I have a 2006 GMC 1500 4x4 just under 100,000 miles on a GM crate engine, 266,000 on truck, runs great no loss of power, no drop in MPG. sill get 17-18 around town on 87. If I put 90-91 gas in when pulling a load I get 18 all day long. So were is the problem? I am getting spark knock. I have tried diffrent gas, just put in plugs and wires. Old plugs looked good. No Cel on, No codes. It happens when I am flat roads and going up hills. I did get to go away for 1 tank when I switched gas stations,but now all brands of gas do it. This has been going for 3 mo's. One more thing it all started after I made a 800 mile round trip puling a trailer ( just under 5000 lbs on trailer 2 axle enclosed). On that trip as always do I used 90-91 gas.
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My high mounted rear stop light and driver side real stop/tail light seems to be burned out. After checking manual, I found nothing mentioned about replacing 'high mounted rear stop light' at all. It's weird enough. From hmaservice.com, I found how to replace bulb, but, still could not find how to open that light box or package. And referring to 2005 model of Sonata, it says there are two nuts to be unscrew to open light box. However, I'm trying to find those nuts in my 06 Sonata.
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I purchased a 2006 Impreza 2.5 back in July, and since then, have replaced the cam seal twice but I am still having problems. I smell burned oil and see faint smoke coming from the motor (lookers right- battery side). My local mechanic thinks the camshaft might be at fault, but is unsure. I have only owned Subarus, and have never had this issue with any other models. Head gaskets are brand new, same with timing belt, water-pump, radiator, and cam seal. Vehicle has 160k on it, and is my daily driver.
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1999 Ford E150 with 150K on it. This van has generally been a champ, but it's recently developed a habit of not starting.. sometimes. I replaced the battery a couple months ago, and the starter sounds fine, it always cranks enthusiastically, but the engine won't start. It's as though it's out of gas, but there's plenty of gas. And I'll retry every so often, and then all of a sudden, hours or days later, it will just start right up like nothing ever happened.
On one such occasion I finally paid to have it towed to the shop. And the mechanic goes out, turns the key.. and it starts right up. So then they run the standard diagnostics, said the fuel pressure looks good. So they don't have any idea what the problem is either, and their only suggestion is to tow it in again next time it doesn't start, or leave it with them for a long time until they can recreate the problem.
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My front dipped headlamps both burnt out within days of each other and I replaced them with H7 Sylvanias. Pretty easy to get out, but they are too dim. I believe I do not have them installed properly.
Looking for PDF for this replacement procedure and/or give a description of how this is done???? It is kind of a bugger to get inside that housing. I am a mechanical novice with cars, but a competent M1/M14 gunsmith. I really can't justify paying VW $50 to install a few bulbs. I like fixing things for myself.
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About 30 days after having my towing hitch installed at the dealer (and having driven 1,500 miles with no problems), my turn signals mysteriously stopped functioning while driving down the freeway. I took it into my dealer and they determined that there was a software patch that needed to be installed. It resolved my signal issues and the "canbus error"....
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Just replaced my bulbs with the Garax 6000k and they look good but now my check engine light and VSC light is on. Problem started after changing bulbs? My pops said it should go away but we're not sure. Is there a way to reset it and get rid of the lights?
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I have a 2013 Corolla with about 6000 miles on it. The drivers side door mysteriously locks after my wife gets home in the evenings. We do not lock it at the house, but when we get into it after she gets home to go somewhere, the driver side door is locked, but none of the rest of the doors. Is there a recall for this problem? Or is it something new that Toyota has not discovered yet? It's the only problem I've had so far with this car, so far it has done this four times in the last month. I just turned in an 07 Tundra with 250,000 miles and had only one problem with where it went into " Limp" mode because of water in some emissions control box at around 160,000 miles, so I hope to get as good service out of the Corolla. It is not the auto relock feature, as I'm familiar with that function on the Tundra.
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My son has a 1985 Nissan 300 ZX. The car has practically been rebuilt. Several mornings a week the car is dead. We have replaced many major car parts over the past 2 years like the ignition switch, alternator, battery, clutch, rotars, brakes and breaks. We even pulled the fuse to the security light as that was drawing many amps when the car was off thinking that was what was causing the dead battery.
If I had not seen this with my own eyes I would not believe it. The car will be parked, shut off for hours and the tail lights mysteriously turn on. The headlights are not coming on, just the tail lights They just slowly come on. We have witnessed this 3 times and have no clue what the problem could be. We walk over and turn the lights on then fully then off. However, the lights are in an off position to begin with.
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Weird thing occasionally happens with my 2004 v-10 treg, every once in a while upon trying to turn on my turn indicator I notice that its not working... then i see that my dash lites are dimmer than usual, then i notice my amp gauge reads "O".... But once i stop and turn it off [sometimes repeatedly] the amp gauge reads back up to where it normally is at 14.
The first time this happened it was on the freeway and i drove 30 miles thinking it was gonna die before I got home. Once I got home and turned it off and restarted it, and it was fine. This all happens without an error message? I should also mention my keyless entry works now only a fraction of the time? What this could be? I got 160,000 miles on this very well maintained treg.
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Just bought a new 2011 gmc sierra 1500. I am getting a vibration at 40 to 60 mph. Brought truck back to the dealership at 400 miles and they re-balanced all 4 tires. Didn't work. The second time back they had the car for a week and told me they sent the tires out to be road forced balanced that this should take care of the problem. I now have the truck back and it is vibrating even worst than before. There are 20 inch tires and rims on the truck. The truck now has 1400 miles on it. What could be going on?
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I have a 2007 GS 430, 126,000 miles. Initially I had one faulty headlight that would not work but after turning the switch off/on, it would work again. Eventually both headlights started malfunctioning. After reading other forums, we elected to change the headlight bulbs. So far that has worked. However, after changing the bulbs, the VSC (Vehicle Stability Control) and check engine lights came on. After running the headlights and using the car to go to/from work with about 4 stops and restarts, the car reset itself and the warning lights turned off. Scared me at first because I had also just had suspension work done. However, the Headlamp Level Control System is part of the VSC system, which makes sense, just wasn't prepared for the warning lights.
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I recently bought a 1998 GMC Seira with over 211,000 miles on it. On the way home I noticed that the oil pressure was low when I stopped for red lights. Can this mean anything other that a bad oil pump?
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This one should be easy but I feel the need to check. Lately the brakes on my GMC sierra pick up truck has been sticking. Not badly but ever so little. Seems to happen most when it has been parked and when i put it into drive it doesn't move. If I let it sit there for a moment the brakes release and it does just fine after that. If I hit the gas and go I get the same result. what do you think? Calipers??
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My 2000 GMC Sierra truck is in great shape at 150,000+ miles with one exception. Road noise has become so loud that my wife and I have to practically shout to carry on a conversation at speeds above 40-45 MPH. Is there an after-market fix to improve the situation?
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My 2002 GMC Sierra, when the AC is on, occasionally makes a sound like pressure escaping from an air tank. Sometimes it doesn't do it at all, like when I take it to the dealer to get fixed, and other times it does it every 30 seconds or so. It's worse in hot weather, but I've had it do it in the winter when the Defrost (and AC) is on. It sounds like an Air Compressor that has a broken regulator and builds up too much pressure and releases the pressure. The sound only lasts for about 1/2 a second, but it's fairly loud. It's coming from under the hood, because it is very loud when driving slow with the windows down. It will do it at all speeds, and is very annoying. We're planning on taking this truck to the Grand Canyon this summer, so I'm hoping to figure it out. My wife says we should just buy a new truck.
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I have an '02 GMC,Sierra,4.8 L 5-speed,once upon a time this truck would easily travel over 500 miles on a full tank of fuel, for the first 10 years ,on a road trip ( which I do every summer), approx.,210 miles one way, this truck would still have just over 1/2 tank of fuel, as of the summer of 2012, the thing used up to 3/4's of a tank.
Then the service engine light came on, I replaced all sensors, O2's new injectors, motorvac, new plugs ,wires etc,( All done by a certified ASE mechanic). After his work the truck got back up to the aforementioned "good mileage", and the Service engine light went out...for awhile, now it is on again, as mentioned earlier, the truck has basically had a complete tune-up. So whats up with this ?? I sure hope I don't need to R/R the engine itself....
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