Gmc - Sierra :: 2000 - Heavy Sound Of Marbles Banging Around Near Front Of Engine At Idle
Sep 24, 2016
2000 GMC Sierra 2500 6.0L gas engine 150K miles. After returning home from a 150 mile drive, I notice a very heavy sound of marbles banging around near the front of the engine at idle. The noise is a much like heavy detonation where timing is badly off kilter. Used my stethoscope to determine this is loudest at the water pump housing. The belt runs smoothly with no sign of unusual resistance. The engine does not overheat, and there is no sign of a coolant leak.Can a bad water pump shaft bearing make such a tremendous "cackling" noise? What else could it be?
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I have been getting noise that sounds like marbles in the front wheel area. It doesn't happen right away, but after about 20-30 minutes of continuous driving you can hear it. It is louder the faster the car goes, and when you stop it the sound slows down and stops. There is no difference in the way she drives / handles with or without the noise, but I know she hasn't made that noise in the past.
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When I drive the 1991 Stealth for an extended period - more than 50 miles, at least, the car intermittently presents a loud rotational banging sound from the passenger side front end. If I depress the clutch peddle and decelerate, it slows down/stops. It is not a continous noise, and it only comes up every so many months. I have taken it to mechanics numerous times, and there have been guesses/fixes to address the problem, but it is still ocurring. Other than this, the car is in great shape and runs great!
Here is what has been done to the car that is relevant:
New Rack and Pinion Steering,
New Tie Rod(s),
New Brake Pads, Transmission Rebuilt, valve re-work.
It does not happen continuously, so it does not seem like it would be a CV joint., When it first starts to come on it is noticed most when turning. But then it gets louder and just does it even when going straight. When the problem first started happening, the transmission had been done within a month or two prior, and I noticed one of the transmission bolts was missing (front center bottom). I was told at that time this was not the issue and since the place where the bolt goes in was stripped, nothing cold be done to replace the bolt, except to take out and replace the entire mount.
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I was coming home from a trip and started to here this banging sound coming from the passenger side in the front under the vehicle. It already sounds like it busted up some gears cause you can here it being tossed around inside the casing. The vehicle will drive but once I get to around 10 mph it would start banging sounding like gears are messed up.
There is no binding there is nothing that makes the car slower but something is broke. I am wondering if there is a gear box under there near the center console and over to the passenger side in the front. Funny thing is... Is that it started in the back rear but stopped then the front started and then broke something. The back is fine though. Think this could be the All wheel drive also or some part of it.
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My wife has a 13 Prius persona. There is a rattling/banging sound coming from the front end on drivers side only. Car has not been in any accident. Toyota dealer has looked at it twice. First time could not hear noise. Second, he heard it. They looked at everything and then stated that it was the ABS Brakes testing. It sounds like something is loose- that is the best way to describe the noise. It happens fairly often, too. Never happened with my 2012 Prius model two when we had it.
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I have a 2000 Toyota Camry LE with 106K miles. It?s getting a little clunky but works perfectly. I do regular maintenance like oil changes every 3 or 4 months, breaks, tires. Last year one day during very have down pour rain I noticed something banging/hitting under the seats while driving in this heavy rain & car losing power (slowing down). Something (I am guessing the exhaust pipe? hitting the body. The more gas I gave to gain speed the violent the banging. I slowed down to almost 15MPH but never stop & the car started to work normal. It happened 3 or 4 times before I got home. I check all fluids etc? All normal. Drove later in sunny, cloudy & even in light rain the car runs perfectly fine. Then it happened again in heavy rain.
I told my car mechanic & he checked all even tightened the main belts (not timing belt). No change. Now it?s so predictable when ever its rains heavy & even slushy snow/rain. Lately it started to not only lose power but sometime instead of banging I hear grinding noise when pressing the gas paddle. Some time banging followed by grinding but every time after slowing down the car recoups power and I drive normally. It never ever happens in dry day. My wife who drives ?Buick Century 2004? thinks my car is dyeing and should buy a new. When I describe this situation to any mechanic they points to transmission & want to perform brain surgery to diagnose.
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2000 Sierra 1500, 5.3L engine. When he starts it in the cold (below 40 degrees) at first hits 1000rpm, then immediately drops to 400-500rpm. The idle is rough and wants to die if he tries to drive it. However after 10-15 minutes and the eng warms up, its fine no problems at all. There is no codes, so the scanner we had didn't tell us anything. He had cleaned the TB and intake system with cleaner, no dice. He also disconnected the IAC while it was idling rough, that didn't change the way it ran at all. We would like to toubleshoot it more before we start throwing parts at it.
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I've a 2007 Toyota Camry (LE 2.4 L 4-cylinder). Couple of days ago I tried to start the car and I heard this banging/grunting sound as I started the car. And, after the car started the engine is running much louder. Oddly enough when I got out of the car and opened the hood the noise didn't seem that loud. In other words, it sounds louder from inside the car than standing outside with the hood open.
Before all this, the engine ran very smoothly and very quite. Here is a link for two audio files that captures the sounds. Note that I recorded these two clips from inside the car.
First when is when I'm starting the engine (the sound can be heard at around 6-7 seconds): [URL] ....
Second is when the engine is running loud (I'm not driving the car...just sitting there letting the engine run): [URL] ....
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I was driving today and as I descended a steep hill the car made a horrible banging sound and the check engine light came on. I got home and the light has since gone out. What happened and is this bad?
Mercedes E320 '99 300K Miles Automatic Transmission...
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A friend of mine has had this 2000 Sierra since new. It has just over 100K and never had any cooling issues before. Last week when it was about 10 below zero she drove it home and it overheated and pumped a couple quarts of antifreeze overboard.
She refilled it the next day and it was fine but got it looked at by a local independent mechanic. I had told her that it was likely a sticky thermostat and it ought to be changed out anyways due to its age. The mechanic thought I was wrong and that she had driven it off to quickly in the super cold weather.
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I bought a 2005 Hyundai Accent about 5-6 months ago, GS 2 Dr model, 52,000kms (69,000 on her now), and lately she has been making a weird ticking sound form the engine when idle, if you give her some gas it slowly goes away as your RPMS increase. I had my father look at it, he said it seems fine, i also had a garage look at it and they also said its fine, but too me the engine sounds different then it did when i got it, maybe the cold from the winter could be doing this? when the engine is heated up it still makes the noise.
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My truck has been having idle surge, low engine power, says stable tracks is off, computer said TPS pedal sensor. I replaced it. Within 3-4 days my truck does the same thing. I turn it off and eventually my truck runs fine with the exception of my engine light is on truck runs good. I put the computer on it again while the truck running bad and it continues to say it is the TPS sensor.
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EGR marbles -- the chunks of carbon that come loose from the EGR cooler / intake manifold and stick the EGR valve open?
I've been getting these on 3 recent occasions, maybe 100 miles or so apart. The truck loses pretty much all power below 2000 rpm, smokes and stinks bad until I pull the EGR valve and dump these out. I'm trying to decide if I need to dig in and do a new EGR cooler and oil cooler. I've read the FordDoctorsDTS article suggesting these are caused by and coming from a leaking EGR cooler (possibly only when very hot) over time.
I'm not currently losing any coolant that I can tell, but was losing some a few months ago (during warmer weather), but also had a leaky heater valve that I replaced at the time. Not sure if the leaky valve would account for the total coolant loss (I lost over a gallon in a few weeks).
Here's the additional details:
- 2004 Excursion with just over 109K miles
- Replaced faulty EGR valve (was sticking open) about 300 miles ago
- Replaced stock turbo with new powermax turbo 300 miles ago. Old was rusty and pitted with sticking unison ring.
- I just did a total coolant flush, oil cooler back-flush, Restore and Restore+ and added new coolant filter
- Replaced thermostat during coolant flush. ECT stays pretty close to 190 degress when warmed up.
- ECT/EOT delta is mostly between 15 to 18 degrees, sometimes slightly lower or higher. Not much change after the coolant flush, but may be slightly improved.
- I've been doing pretty regular wide open throttle tests during recent test drives with the new parts above (I'm thinking this may have broken some of this stuff loose).
Here's today's marbles. They're all dry and will crumble if crushed. They are dull gray on the inside - not metallic as they kind of look here............
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I have a 1 ton 2000 GMC sierra (old body style 99') 7.4 liter V-8 Gasser with the Allison 1000 tranny, 4x4. the engine will not crank over..
Battery was dead so I charged it, battery was holding 9v, so i hooked up jumper cables to my new car, gauge showed 12v, so I tried to start the truck.. the fuel pump, antilock brake system, and gauges came on.. as well as the "check engine light", "service engine soon", and battery light... I ensured the trans was in park, even tried neutral.. no crank.
I hooked up the mini scanner tool I have, and got no codes.. cleared the ECU/ECM anyways.. no crank.
I also tried swapping out my starter relay with the A/C relay, and pulling fuses to the ECU/ECM for 20 seconds to clear any issues/codes.. no crank
My next option is to clean the battery cables & terminals (or replace the cables), and replace the battery... the battery is only 2 years old.. due for replacement, but I'm kinda broke right now. The battery is one of those stupid side terminal ones with poor connections to begin with.. is there a top post terminal battery I can get to replace this POC? or will the posts hit the hood?
This is a plow truck, single battery setup (at the moment).. and the fisher 8' plow when running the hydraulic pump severly drains the battery.. lights dim severely, been wondering about a higher rated alternator (factory is rated at 120-140amps), larger power cables... etc.. dual battery system...
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I recently had intake manifold gaskets replaced in my 98 gmc sierra 4x4 pickup 5.7 . The day I drove it home from the shop it ran fine, even day after but the next day I noticed it seem to idle a little rough and even at normal driving, sometimes seems worse than others. No service engine light has yet to come on. Could there be vacuum leak, trash in intake or bad wires and plugs. Plugs, wires, rotor button and distributor cap are only year and half old.
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My 2000 Toyota Corolla is making a knocking sound that gets worse when the car is in idle and in drive. I have a feeling that it is dying, but is it unsafe?
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before there was a problem in my car like when ever i was accelerating the car i feel that there is a heavy engine sound and i consult the mechanic some said me that the engine mounts to be replaced and some said that spark plug to be replaced [Present ODO Meter is 124,000 km]but now i am feeling that when i am initially accelerating the car ["without turning on AC"] It gives some sound from the silencer and the car is moving slowly and car is shaking when i am turning the AC on it shakes very badly and even though it is moving like a tortoise at the initial stage even though i accelerate later it is moving fast...
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Now that I have gotten my ScanGauge II to monitor all 4 egt sensor, I am wondering about temperatures while towing, especially how long to idle a hot engine after heavy towing.
I realize all 4 sensors are post turbo (and there is no chance I'm going to drill for an after market pre-turbo sensor). It seems the first one downstream will be the one to watch.
What temperature range we should look for before turning off the engine? IIRC, Ford recommends idling for 3 to 5 minutes, but watching the temp seems a bit more specific.
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Honda civic 2008 and I notice that while I accelerate the car at the first time I hear the heavy engine sound while comparing to the other carall the oils have been changed recently.
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Some odd engine noise i noticed on my fiance's 2010 Ford Escape 6 cyl Limited.
I noticed it a week or so ago, the sound almost reminds me of marbles hitting metal. The sound is coming from a pulley on the driver side front of the engine bay (closest to bumper). Rather than trying to explain the sound more, listen to the two youtube clips i put up. Clip 2 from outside the grill you can hear it the most.
What this could be and what I can do to resolve? I prefer to try and fix car issues on my own rather than go to a mechanic, if possible.
Clip 1 : 2010 Ford Escape Limited Engine noise 1 - YouTube
Clip 2 : 2010 Ford Escape Limited Engine noise 2 - YouTube
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I own a 2004 Volvo S60 2.5T AWD. I have noticed that usually when I am driving and it starts to rain heavily, there is a loud siren sound coming from the engine area. This sound stays till it doesn't stop to rain. Also, if I don't step on the accelerator, the sound goes away. I have taken it to the dealership a couple of times but haven't been able to replicate the sound.
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