Gmc - Sierra :: 1990 - Idle Low And Die When Put In Reverse / Lean Exhaust Code 44
Jul 2, 2015
My truck out of nowhere will start to idle low and die when put in reverse or drive then on other days sometimes it will start and run right. I got the code 44 witch it could be a o2 sensor but tomorrow I'm getting my catalytic converter took off and run straight pipe do I still need a o2 sensor without a catalytic converter or what's causing lean exhaust?
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Driving home yesterday and a check engine light came on while I was at a stoplight. When I got home I plugged my scanner in and came up with a P2187 code, running lean at idle. Cleared the code and went inside to start doing my google homework.
Looking around various threads I'm leaning towards the PCV valve being shot. Seems like they go quite a bit and it describes quite a few of my problems going on; CEL, lumpy idle, and a bit sluggish.
Currently at 50k miles on my 2011. I've been Revo stage one for about 7k if that makes a difference too.
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1988 F250 351 5.8
I've worked for months on this truck and I now have it in the shop. The truck shows a 41 code and has a lean miss at idle that get worse during acceleration and cruise. The injectors were refurbished 6 months ago and the ECM was replaced 3 months ago. All sensors are new and within specs. Fuel pressure is good and there are no vacuum leaks.
The mechanic has verified that the condition is not electrical related. The O2 sensor will react if carb cleaner is sprayed into the throttle but other wise shows constantly lean. He's now checking all pins at the computer for any off condition. He is suspicious of the refurbished injectors. I'm wondering if the computer somehow went out again. Which way to go or what/how next to test?
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My 04 F150 has started having a rough idle. While in park the engine will stall out with the A/C off. Also when in drive the truck will idle close to 1000rpm's. I had to the fuel filter cleaned and also the MAF sensor cleaned. Also did a vacuum check on it. Pulled the code and it's throwing a Lean Code. What else should I be looking for?
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]I recently bought a 1990 ford ranger with a 2.9 @187,000 miles. That being said I went through and changed a few vacuum lines, the oil, air filter, pcv/grommet, and fuel filter.
The problem is it hates to start. I could crank on it for 10 seconds and not a single thing. Sometimes if i turn the key to the off position, wait a second, and try again, Ill get the truck to fire. When it does fire up it just reeks of the lean exhaust. It also gives me some hesitation when I rev it. I did a fuel pressure test (KOEO) last night and it gave me 32 psi and within a minute the needle fell to about 25 psi. I hear the fuel pump run for only 2-3 seconds too.
I've already pulled the MAF off and cleaned it, replaced the TPS, and did a fuel pressure test. The fuel filter is brand new
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My fathers 1990 GMC Sierra 1500 Pickup Truck 4.3L runs fine when it is cold but as soon as it warms up it starts running rough then stalls and won't start. There is no spark when it dies. As soon as it cools off it starts back up and runs fine till it warms back up.
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I have a 2006 gmc 1500hd with the 6.0l the tranny went on it so we replaced it with a brand new one that was installed by a dealer, well it works fine except when you go out in the morning and go to back out of the driveway it wont move but if i put it in park and let it warm up for 10 min and try again it works fine we have had it back at the dealer to have it looked at and they said its fine so i took it somewhere else and they said its fine. ive changed the tranny filter and fluid spent about a grand having it looked at and cant figure it out
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2005 f150 Lariat 4x4 5.4
Had phasers, tensioners, chains, guides, and sensors replaced. After driving the truck, it started to get a rough idle at low speeds, primarily in reverse. Changed both vct solenoids with no results. Started to get p0022 code. Changed the oil with motorcraft filter and 5w-20 twice after the work had been done, thinking it might need it. Vct's were a little varnished, but not too bad.
After a couple days of light driving, got a misfire on #3. Replaced the coil and it hasn't been back since. I am stumped at this point.
The computer show the timing to be at +13 when sitting stopped and in drive. It fluctuates a little, but not much. When the truck goes into a rough idle. The rpm's fluctuate wildly. It seems to be happening more frequently, the more I drive it.
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All the sudden today all the dash indicators died & the seatbelt indicator light is flashing. It drove OK, but something is definitely wrong. Fuse maybe?
2013 GMC Sierra 2500HD Duramax Diesel.
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'90 Maxima 256k.....recently I've noticed exhaust coming in through the vents when I have the AC on and have been idling or driving in slow traffic. I know I have a small exhaust manifold leak because I hear the clicking. The problem is this exhaust smell happens very intermittently. Usually on hot humid days when I have the AC on. I have tried to duplicate the issue to no avail. Sometimes I can sit in a parking lot at idle with the AC on for 30 minutes and I don't smell any exhaust (not even when I smell under the hood). How can this be? If it truly was an exhaust leak then it would leak all the time and I would smell it. Could my EGR valve be leaking? When the EGR valve is activated?
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'90 Maxima...A couple of my exhaust studs broke (it was a problem for this model) and now I have an annoying exhaust leak. I tried to put a new gasket, but it started to leak again. I am thinking of using permatex copper sealant....drilling out the broken bolts and replacing them would be very expensive I think.
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I have a 94 ranger 4L. I am looking for a more loud exhaust sound in/outside the truck and at idle. I have had a cherry bomb turbo on it and it was ok but not loud enough for my liking. I just picked up a flowmaster 40 2 days ago and it sounds good but again just not loud enough for my taste and kinda a lot more. I was looking for a louder muffler that is not a glasspack and would like to stay under like 80 or so.
I also thought about getting a high flow cat which i think might make some more sound but was not sure. Im running the stock pipe which is 2" and end in back of the wheel on the right. I look at the Hooker Headers Maximum Flow Muffler which i thought would be louder b/c it's more straight through the muffler so it would put off more sound better. What would u recommend for something more loud ?
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I have this code on my gmc serria 6.0L. I have changed the O2sensor2 but the code comes and goes. Less frequent than before I changed it. I am wondering if the cataletic converter can be altered and remove the code. I/e drill it out, take it out?
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I have a 1990 chevy K2500 5.7 350 tbi with 255000 miles on the body and engine. transmission replaced at 200000. When I drive long enough for the truck to get hot (i.e., 10 minutes or so) if i put it in reverse to back into a parking space or my driveway, it just shuts off. i have had fuel filter and fuel pump replaced but what could cause this? it will stay on if I don't drive long enough to get hot.
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I have a 1990 Pontiac firefly with a 3 cyl automatic. It will not go into reverse and will shift 1st to 3rd when the car is cold. once it is warm it shifts fine. it is puzzling. When it is warm shifts are crisp solid. I am thinking it is not worn disks or band. I would like to get this fixed before winter sets in. I have a little more info now. If I shift into low it will shift into second, So I now have all three gears but still no reverse until it warms up. I don't seem to be getting any takers, and this is so odd.
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I have a 1990 chevy lumina 2.5 L 4 cyl. 100,000 miles....The car recently started chugging while in drive and will not accelerate correctly, when I do get it to 55 mph there's still chugging, Ive replaced the fuel filter, spark plug and wires, fuel system clean, new battery, there is a inch crack in the exhaust manifold on the front of the engine, not sure if that would make me lose power to accelerate, the car idles fine, but chugs when put in drive, and will occasionally die when put in reverse....
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I have a 2002 prius with 130,000 miles on her, and so far so good except for a small problem for the last three months, I get an intermittent P0171 code. I know it means Lean Condition in Bank 1. However, I can run the car for weeks without it coming on. If I go full throttle getting onto the highway for example it may come on, but even then its not all the time. Not sure why only full throttle. But if I drive her gently, I will never see the CEL at all.
Fuel economy is around the usual for me at 46-49 mpg with average speeds of 75-85 mph. I don't think its vacuum related.
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My car wouldn't start earlier this week. After jumping it, it stalled out at the first stop sign. I got a new battery and it started great but it still stalled out while idling and low rpms. I gave it a tune up in hopes that it was a bad spark plug or wiring issue. It is running better but it still gets really choppy at stops or idling at a light and it still wants to or has stalled. I had disconnected the negative charge from the battery to check if it was an alternator issue but it ran fine without the battery.
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My 1990 Ford Econoline Conversion van (75,000 miles) recently started emitting white smoke or vapor from the exhaust pipe. I've been told it is steam caused by one of two things - either coolant or automatic transmission fluid leaking into the engine and being burned off. I've checked the oil and no sign that coolant has contaminated the oil (no chocolate shake-like substance). My coolant was a little low, so I topped it off. One possibility is this could be a head gasket issue. I have two questions. First, could it be something other than the head gasket? And second, is it safe to run the engine or drive the van while it is emitting the white smoke?
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1990 Ford Aerostar. When I start runs really rough and has excessive fuel consumption and the exhaust smells like gas and has a misfire my friend says its the coil pack going bad im not sure. I love my ford aerostar dont wanna get rid of it.
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I have a 1990 Aerostar 4WD, 4L, with about 120k miles. About 6 months ago I started my van and noticed under it that gas was dripping onto the exhaust at the Y-joint and evaporating. I shut off the van and drove another car to work. That evening with fire extinguisher at hand I drove my car up on ramps and quickly got under it looking for the leak. NOTHING. 6 months later...yesterday. I drove for a few blocks from home and notice heavy gas fumes etc. Stopped the van and again gas was dripping onto the Y-pipe joint.
This was an explosive situation... I pulled off the doghouse cover and saw, smelled and touched gas friom on the right top of the engine near the back. My questions are: What could randomly be leaking at this location and is it fixable without pulling the engine. I pushed the van to a secure location and am afraid to turn it on. Maybe I will drain the gas tank before then. I am just now trying to find the schematics for the fuel line delivery stuff. Where to go for a manual.
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