Gmc - Safari :: 2004 Van Won't Go Over 45 Mph
Dec 1, 2012
My sister has a 2004 GMC safari van. A few months ago, the van started having a very rough shift and excessive revving. we took it to a mechanic who found a transmission leak. they fixed the leak and recommended that we use Lucas oil transmission fluid to work with the rough shift. since then things have gone from bad to worse.
The van will not go over 45 mph. the engine excessively at 35 mph. After 35 mph, it appears something also goes wrong in the electrical system. At 35-40 mph, my dash goes from lit to dark. Also i have lost the use of my power locks and since this issue began, i have lost use of 2 of 3 of my cigarette lighters. What is happening here??.
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Symptoms:1. The max blower position does not blow at all, but the other positions blow just a little (heat and a/c).2. The heater seems to take a bit to get going. Once it is hot, it seems to do okay.
Questions:1. What steps do I take in a logical order to fix this? Resistor, blower motor, thermostat, heater core?2. This is a loaner van from a family friend. Should I do anything to it? They want to sell it and I am interested in it, but I don't want to start fixing stuff if I am not going to own the thing - unless it is an easy repair under $100.
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I have a 1997 GMC Safari van with 175,000 miles on it. One month ago it wouldn't start. It would crank and crank but just not fire. When I turn the key I can hear the fuel pump start. I have other transportation available, so I just tried it a couple of times a day with the same result. Some history: about 5 months ago I had the fuel pump replaced. Finally I gave up and had it towed to the shop that had replaced the fuel pump. After it was unloaded from the flatbed, the mechanic tried to start it and it started normally. Since it started, I had an oil change done and had them check all the connections. Afterwards it started normally. I drove it for a few days with no problem and then one morning the same problem- cranking but not starting. Being stubborn, and with tight finances, I tried to start it every day for a week. Same symptoms. Finally today I had it towed to a different mechanic recommended by a friend. Of course, when it was unloaded from the flatbed it started right up. Any theories?
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I have a 96 GMC safari (Geneva). She just took me for a 17,000 mike road trip! Without a single problem. In California I nearly destroyed her bc I had no idea about engine breaking and I road the hell out of her brakes. So I replaced the calipers rotors shoes lines and fluid. Had a great trip on them cross country back to the FL keys. Since back I have had trouble with the brakes not functioning. Stiffness in the brake pedal and not reliable braking. Took her in recently and had both front ABS Boosters and sensors replaced. Now the brakes are holding and I could smell burning rubber after driving home from the mechanics. My mechanic has no clue what's going on and is suggesting I out new calipers on but is unsure that's actually the problem.
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This van has 200,000 plus miles doesn't leak any fluids but it has a cruising speed miss, that sometimes seems to want to shut it down I have had it in several shops and a g m dealer ship, so far no one has been able to fix the problem, it has had plugs, wires, mass air, coils all changed at least twice, the fuel pressure is 50lbs when I bought the van it had 76 000 miles and it had a miss then and has continued to have the miss , I have not had the injectors replaced is there anything other than injectors that could cause this problem? at speeds of 65mph and above it miss,s badley.
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2000' GMC safari's electrical system. To begin, she has 95,000mi, an although that's about a year old, a duralast gold battery about the same age, and 13.8 volts at idle on the meter at the battery. The problem, over the past couple of weeks, I'll start it and drive off as normal, an the thing wants to stall for about two seconds. After that, no problem whatsoever. One time, it actually did stall on me, and everything went dead for a couple of minutes, no juice whatsoever; noticed that even the clock in the radio read 12:00. After a few minutes, I tried to turn the key again, and it started right up. This a.m., I went to start the van, and it initially would not turn over. The started motor turned but in a weak manor. At that point we went completely dead again, no electricity whatsoever.
The strangest thing is what happened next, I pulled the hood latch release as I was about to investigate and noticed the guages on the dash move when I did, power was back. The van then started but barely, and when it did it stumbled for a few seconds before driving off without so much as a hiccup the rest of the day. The only other possibly related symptom would be a slight rough idle combined with a just noticeable dimming of the dash lights in the dark at idle. Also, I should mention that I have checked the battery terminals and they are tight and clean, the van is in excellent shape mechanically, averaging 20mpg combined, smooth acceleration, no leaks, "using oil", white or black smoke, etc. Plugs, cap, rotor, and pcv are recent. Egr and maf are both clear.
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Prius 2004 with 86K miles. My brake led light on the driver side stopped working completely the other day. For some time now (6 months) i knew the top led of the brake light was not working, but yesterday I discovered that the whole led is failing. tail and parking light on the same assembly are working fine. I pulled off the plastic door inside the trunk and I checked connections for faulty ones but everything was tight in its place. Is there anything else I can do before preparing to go to the "butcher" dealer?
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01-D5, Sub-code: 190-30-8
01-DC, Sub-code: 190-B7-8
01-DC, Sub-code: 1C6-4D-F
Not sure if these are what is causing the problem.
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How hard are they to put on, and who makes the best one? I was told about hell bent steel, but I am not sure? I got an 04 Ford F150 looking to level it out...
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Since I cannot add pics, attached is a link
[URL].....
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After that weekend I took it to a local mechanic. He thought an oil flush and change would fix it, but he said I had a “sh…load of codes” with the check engine light. After the oil change I drove about 40 miles and it did it again. I pulled over, waited a bit and continued my commute. It was fine until I had to slow down and try to accelerate again.So, I brought it to my regular mechanic. He added thicker oil. He changed the cooling fan and a selonoid, checked the codes and $700 later, it still had the same problem. I brought it back and he changed the catalytic converter and it still did the same thing after about 20 miles.I brought it back and he put back my old catalytic converter so I wouldn’t have to pay for a new one.Now he thinks it may be some oxygen sensor. I am supposed to bring it back to him and leave it for 2 days next week.
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I just got my Prius and made the test drive around the city. On my consumption screen, within 19 miles, I get only 24.9 MPG.
Does this normal for short distance driving? I heard some people got 40+ MPG or 50+ MPG.
Do I have to make longer drive in order to see the impact?
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1: why would the engine run for only few second and cut off
2: Why no error code was registered
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I really don't like the native apps that just keep the data confined to the phone and I find emailing my data around and having to do things in a spreadsheet to be painful.
I want my data all online, but the app to be native, so it's snappy and responsive.
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