Gmc - Safari :: 1999 - Misfiring At Cruising Speeds Of 65mph
Feb 6, 2012
This van has 200,000 plus miles doesn't leak any fluids but it has a cruising speed miss, that sometimes seems to want to shut it down I have had it in several shops and a g m dealer ship, so far no one has been able to fix the problem, it has had plugs, wires, mass air, coils all changed at least twice, the fuel pressure is 50lbs when I bought the van it had 76 000 miles and it had a miss then and has continued to have the miss , I have not had the injectors replaced is there anything other than injectors that could cause this problem? at speeds of 65mph and above it miss,s badley.
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I have a 06 f350 with 5.4 140k miles. Recently it has been shaking bad on idle but only in gear and it's hard to start when cold. The exhaust is moist at all times and the fluids never leak. When you floor it it hesitates feels like it's overly rich but if you let off a little it stars to pull again. Also while cruising at 1500-1700 rpms in any gear it will surge and skip. Only time it will miss and the CEL comes on is over 4000 rpms for a random misfire. Just put new coils in new fuel pump and filter. There has always been a cat code but it never effected the drivability. Could it be injectors?
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I recently got a used 2000 silverado 1500 ext. cab with a short bed. Has a 5.3L engine. I noticed it has vibrations at highway speeds. I thought it was the crappy tires on it so I had all the tires replaced and balanced. Now it has all new tires and does the same thing. Runs really smooth all the way up to 40mph and then the vibrations begins. It is mostly felt in the steering/dash and pedals. A little more pronounced on accel. but vibrates if your on the gas on not.
Once your reach 65mph, the vibrations stop. I have also noticed that asphalt makes it vibrates more. When I go over concrete overpasses in the problem area of 40 to 65mph it smooths out. I took a look under the truck and saw nothing obvious. U joints feel tight and no play, seen it had weights which appeared welded onto the one piece drive shaft.
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I've been having problems with hesitation and a flutter at cruising speeds as well as erratic idle. I have a 2000 F-250 SD with 497K Miles. I was having poor starts during florida winter ( had to plug in a couple times) Had no oil coming out of #2 inject and #8 buzz was weak. Flutter was there and was the original reason I started digging. Right now the only code Im throwing with my chip turned off is a P0470. I cleaned the tube and the sensor but its still throwing.
I have recently replaced all Injectors, Glow Plugs, Valve Cover Gaskets & Harnesses, CPS, Fuel Pump, ICP was replaced before new plug no oil showing.
Mods: 6637 Air Cleaner, TS-6 Chip
Truck has mad power now no problem starting. Its really starting to frustrate me Ford dealer wont troubleshoot unless I remove the chip. I feel like it should be something simple because on the throttle it will set you back in your seat cruising at 70+ no flutter ..... but slow down to 50 55 in traffic and let off the throttle when you start to ease back into it 1500 - 1800 "buck buck buck" if I monitor ICP pressure I see a fluctuation in psi of about 200 -300 psi (1400 to 1200 or 1000 to 800) . If I throttle harder it will stop or let off the throttle. I can feel it do it sometimes before the TC locks so I dont think its a TC issue. I even tested with OD off and I can recreate. The magic area appears to be 1500 - 2000 rpm....
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I have a 2010 Passat 2.0T with 42k miles. Since it rolled over 38k on the odometer, I have been having a problem with the tranny dropping down to 5th, sometimes even 4th, while at cruising speeds (80-85 mph...Live in Texas). I notice this mostly on long drives (Ft Worth to San Antonio). The problem usually occurs while in Drive when I punch it to pass. Although, this is not always the case; sometimes it will drop down by simply letting off the accelerator or pushing the brake.
When this happens, I have to manually shift it back into 6th and its a crap shoot if it stays there when I put it back into Drive. This last trip I drove 90% manually because it would not stay in 6th in Drive. After calling the dealer and them telling me that it was probably a cruise problem, I turned off the cruise and drove without it with the same results. I bought this car used with 19k miles; Is the transmission covered under warranty or are there any recalls on this?
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Just had this happen to me yesterday and cant figure it out. Cruising at normal speeds and shifting into 5th gear at about 2000 rpm. when to apply throttle and the car chocked or slipped then regained power. Almost like it went into limp mode for a second or traction control kicked in. Im not sure what it could be.
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I have a 2010 Model S that has 38,000 miles on it. I am hearing a rattling in the front brakes when cruising along at almost all speeds. If i hold a little peddle pressure it goes away. Sounds like the pads are rattling to me. I am running the stock pads with about 45 to 50% remaining on them.
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I have an 06 Touareg V8 with AWD, auto tranny. No leveling suspension. And when I drive it specially while my foot is on the gas at cruising speeds there's a grinding noise coming from under the car. When I step off the gas it is gone or when I am accelerating hard I can't hear it. What could it be? It's driving me and my ocd insane!! I think it is drivetrain related (differential, wheel bearing, etc.) but not the transmission as I can still hear it while coasting in neutral.
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Three days ago my Outback started making this grinding/rattling (hard to describe) noise when shifting and cruising at low speeds. Is this the clutch or the transmission? No trouble shifting though. I got rear-ended by a big Lexus SUV last week, but wouldn't think that would have anything to do with it. Just damaged the bumper a little.
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My e150 front end shakes at cruising speeds. Has brand new tires and the best balance wheels are up front. I got the van on jack stands check for play on the tie rods and ball joints it all seem to be good and tight.
The only I did notice was that the both wheels move quite a bit from side to side and the culprit is the gear box. I removed the drag link from the Pittman arm at gear box and then i was able to move the Pittman arm at the back and fourth about 1/8 to 1/4 of an inch its not a bad Pittman arm cause the movements comes from the gear box itself.
Can that back and fourth movement be adjust by simply adjusting the Allen bolt and nut on the top side of the gear box?
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,the symptom that I'm wondering about is that when the truck is cruising at different high speeds like 65 or 75 it starts to jerk/jolt, if I accelerate it goes away, or if I let off the accelerator.
Once I settle on a different cruising speed it does it again. There is no smoke out the exhaust pipe, it does not loses any power, I look at the RPM's and they don't move when the jerking/jolting starts. Truck runs fine except for this issue.
I do get the P0404 and P0405 codes which are for the EGR valve and the sensor. By the way **is there an EGR SENSOR** anywhere on this engine, I seen some posts where people refer to it as the EBP Sensor, is this correct? I cleaned the EGR valve, but it did not do anything to fix the issue. I'm thinking I damaged the valve when I cleaned it, but I would like to verify that this symptom could be the EGR valve before I buy a new one.
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Got a strange one here. 1995 Buick Park Avenue, supercharged 3800, 159K miles... an older car, but an unmolested one. A little over a week ago I began to notice an occasional miss when cruising along at highway speeds, along with a slightly rougher idle. Both the fuel filter and the plugs/wires predated my ownership of the car (a little more than 6 months); so seeing no obvious culprit, I replaced them and hoped for improvement.
Unfortunately, neither had any impact. The missing continued to become more noticeable. It was never present under acceleration. Most of it was like a split-second long version of "bucking" that could be observed while cruising at lower (<2000) RPMs. It was also very noticeable at idle. Eventually a code was set: P0341, camshaft sensor issue. If the story had ended there, it would have been just another night in the garage. But it didn't.
As I was noticing the aforementioned symptom increase, I also noticed my voltmeter would occasionally "twitch" in the downward direction. Eventually I had an incident where I came to a stoplight... transmission in Drive, foot on brake, gauge dropped to around 10-11v. It returned to 14v momentarily, but dropped back down, held there for several seconds, returned, etc. No particular rhyme or rhythm. Of course my first guess was that the alternator was failing; a separate problem from the other.
I checked all the relevant connections (at the battery, at the alternator, etc), and cleaned them for good measure. All were tight, relatively clean, and the cables showed no resistance on the ohmmeter. It happened that I had another correct alternator on hand (used/working pull), so I swapped it in. No change. I reinstalled the original and was back where I started.
On my most recent drive, I noticed both issues had become very noticeable. The drop in voltage was happening at nearly every stop, and the missing was happening a few times per minute while coasting along. There seemed to be some correlation between the missing and voltage fluctuating, but it wasn't absolute.
I decided to attack the voltage issue again. Re-checked all the cables; same result as before (all OK). Looked all over the car for possible bad grounds, loose connections, or other visible problems, but found none. My next thought was to run a jumper from B+ to the voltage regulator's Sense input (have seen issues there on more than a few older vehicles) - but after reading that this car uses the PCM as the voltage regulator, I didn't proceed.
Just to be certain I'm going to have the alternator tested by the local auto parts store. But I suspect it'll pass.
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My engine doesn't run smoothly (like a misfire) when accelerating at hwy speeds, especially when the outside temp is above 20 degrees... the warmer the temps are, the worse it is.
I have a code P0431 - "warm up cat efficiency below threshold (Bank 2)"
Is it an O2 sensor problem, and if so, which one is it and what is the Hyundai p/n for the sensor? Bank 2 is in the front, correct?
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My 2.0L Jetta had an intermittent misfire, only at idle. I took it in to the shop, and they fixed a vacuum leak and replaced the plugs. The car drove home fine, but the next morning it was misfiring at all speeds. When it got back to the shop, they said that the coil pack was bad. I wonder if they might have done something to cause the pack to fail, since it seemed to be working fine before I took it in. Their explanation was that the coil had become accustomed to sparking at an adjusted (more powerful) setting to account for the vacuum leak, and when it tried to go back to the factory setting, it quit working. Also, all of the stress from running at a higher output wore it out.
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My sister has a 2004 GMC safari van. A few months ago, the van started having a very rough shift and excessive revving. we took it to a mechanic who found a transmission leak. they fixed the leak and recommended that we use Lucas oil transmission fluid to work with the rough shift. since then things have gone from bad to worse.
The van will not go over 45 mph. the engine excessively at 35 mph. After 35 mph, it appears something also goes wrong in the electrical system. At 35-40 mph, my dash goes from lit to dark. Also i have lost the use of my power locks and since this issue began, i have lost use of 2 of 3 of my cigarette lighters. What is happening here??.
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Symptoms:1. The max blower position does not blow at all, but the other positions blow just a little (heat and a/c).2. The heater seems to take a bit to get going. Once it is hot, it seems to do okay.
Questions:1. What steps do I take in a logical order to fix this? Resistor, blower motor, thermostat, heater core?2. This is a loaner van from a family friend. Should I do anything to it? They want to sell it and I am interested in it, but I don't want to start fixing stuff if I am not going to own the thing - unless it is an easy repair under $100.
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I have a 1997 GMC Safari van with 175,000 miles on it. One month ago it wouldn't start. It would crank and crank but just not fire. When I turn the key I can hear the fuel pump start. I have other transportation available, so I just tried it a couple of times a day with the same result. Some history: about 5 months ago I had the fuel pump replaced. Finally I gave up and had it towed to the shop that had replaced the fuel pump. After it was unloaded from the flatbed, the mechanic tried to start it and it started normally. Since it started, I had an oil change done and had them check all the connections. Afterwards it started normally. I drove it for a few days with no problem and then one morning the same problem- cranking but not starting. Being stubborn, and with tight finances, I tried to start it every day for a week. Same symptoms. Finally today I had it towed to a different mechanic recommended by a friend. Of course, when it was unloaded from the flatbed it started right up. Any theories?
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I have a 96 GMC safari (Geneva). She just took me for a 17,000 mike road trip! Without a single problem. In California I nearly destroyed her bc I had no idea about engine breaking and I road the hell out of her brakes. So I replaced the calipers rotors shoes lines and fluid. Had a great trip on them cross country back to the FL keys. Since back I have had trouble with the brakes not functioning. Stiffness in the brake pedal and not reliable braking. Took her in recently and had both front ABS Boosters and sensors replaced. Now the brakes are holding and I could smell burning rubber after driving home from the mechanics. My mechanic has no clue what's going on and is suggesting I out new calipers on but is unsure that's actually the problem.
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I just put 20" Status Game wheels on my 07 GX. I have had them balanced twice and between 55-65mph the steering wheel vibrates considerably. Is there a fix for this? New steering box valve, hub rings.
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This noise just recently started, when i go about 65mph I can hear a chirping noise from under my hood. It only happens when i go at fast speeds though.
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My 1999 Passat is acting up (yet again!). This time it's the A/C. I've noticed it works fine during normal driving, but if I am stuck in traffic and the engine is idling then it blows warm.
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