Gmc - Jimmy :: Sluggish Acceleration From Stopped Position
May 20, 2015
I recently took my truck to the mechanic for a bad transmission leak, they told me they had to replace the Oil Cooler Lines (upper and lower) and that they did a transmission service (flushed out the transmission), the leak is fixed, but as soon as I started driving, I noticed that the acceleration is very sluggish from a full stop, I can floor the pedal and there is no difference, once I get going it seems fine (though a bit high on RPM's but not much). I also noticed some of that liquid sealant residue droplets on my windshield, similar to the type of sealant an AC place did for me to seal an AC leak, not sure if that has anything to do with this.
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I have replaced the camshaft pos sensor multiple times from Autozone (warranty ) and replaced with one from Advance Auto still get cam sensor code changed crankshaft sensor today still running like crap, stuttering. I have also done a complete tune up and the Distributor has not been pulled.
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I have a 2000 gmc jimmy 300.000 km 4.3 vortec .starts ok, even when cold idle smooth but when I accelerate past 2000 rpm it has a complete loss of power. I bought a fuel pressure tester key on 2 seconds 60 psi when I start the vehicle and running 55 psi. I took it on a road test it stays at 55 psi and has a hard acceleration and will go to 60 psi ,and then starts to break up my first question is how can I block off the return line to the tank, there's no rubber hose in any of the connections just steel lines and hard plastic with push connectors, is there a plug that you can buy or how I can block off the return to see if the pump will build pressure to 75 psi to 80 psi will this will tell me whether the pressure regulator is faulty or the fuel pump needs to be replaced.
I have a manual its a Haynes for chevy blazer gmc from 95 to 2004 it says with central sequential fuel injections (csefi) key on engine not running it should be approx 55-61 psi the engines running at idle it should decrease through 3 to 10 psi according to this manual i am within range but i have read on other posts that it should be 60-65 would you say that my 55 psi reading is okay? or should it be 60-65? also when i blocked the return line should i get a reading of 75 or higher? if the reading goes up does that mean that the fuel regulator is faulty? and if it doesn't go up does that confirm that the fuel pump is the issue?
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I've noticed that my Camry has seemed especially sluggish when it starts from a stopping position. The acceleration just seems slow, but it gets better once I get up in speed. My first instinct was the transmission, but the fluid level is fine and I'm not really feeling that 'slipping' feeling. I noticed that my tires are very worn (not bald, but certainly worn to the point where I want them replaced), so I'm planning to get those replaced. However, I'd like to know a little more information so I know what to expect when I go into the shop.
1) Could the worn tires contribute to the dragging feeling that car has when it starts to accelerate?2) I've also heard noises almost like a rumble shortly after I stop at a light, and rarely when I make any turns. I'm going to have them check the brakes and all, but the brakes seem fine and I never hear that noise when I step on them, only the two scenarios described. Could the worn tires be responsible for that sound too?
I guess ultimately I'm curious what sounds/issues a car could have as a result of worn tires (other than the obvious risks of wet roads, blown tires, fuel economy, etc).
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I just replace the engine in my car and I had new plugs and wires put in as well. Ever since the new engine, the car doesn't go up hills well and it is very sluggish from a stand still position. As long as I am driving on a flat surface I am good once I get up speed. I went to autozone and I got a P0300 code. Is this a bad ignition coil or maybe a clogged catalytic converter?
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Well, I just went to grab some lunch and on the way home I got on it a bit. I was met with sluggish acceleration and a flashing CEL. Before I could even turn the car off, the CEL went away. I was about 200 yards from my house so I coasted home. What could the issue be?
2008 Passat 2.0T Tippy with APR stage 2.
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I drive a 2001 Hyundai Accent. About a month a go the CE light came on. at first, the car was driving fine so I thought nothing of it. Then I started noticing that the acceleration was sluggish and when it finally accelerated, it basically slingshot forward. What could be wrong. There's no smell, rattling or anything else. The only thing I noticed was the engine was a bit louder.
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I picked up my first GTI about 3 months ago, a 2011 Autobahn with about 35,000 miles. I love the way it drives. I had been admiring them from a distance, and was finally able to pick one up. Unfortunately, I've run into a few issues. I'm pretty much a rookie when it comes to the inner workings of cars, but I'm eager to get into it more. My issue is below:
Over the last few weeks, the car has been consistently a little sluggish, and the acceleration has seemed a bit jumpy. I've only used premium gas, and I've been looking for simple things that might be the issue. I live in Houston, and I was wondering if maybe the extreme heat and humidity might be the reason behind the sluggish performance.
Yesterday, I decided I would clean the air intake filter. It has a K&N intake from the previous owner. After cleaning the filter and replacing it, the car wouldn't start. I may have put too much oil on the filter or the humidity may have just caused it to take longer to dry than the instructions on the cleaning kit recommend.
I called my bro-in-law who is the go-to car guy in our family. He recommended that I try starting the engine without the air filter and pull out the MAF sensor and check it out. When I took off the filter, the car started fine. I replaced the filter, then also pulled the MAF sensor to see if it needed to be cleaned. I found that the bottom of the MAF sensor was bent and slightly dented. I could also see a place where the sensor had scratched the bottom of the pipe.
This morning, the car is running a little smoother (better than before, but not as quick as I remember), but the check engine light has come one. Could the performance issues be due to the damage to the MAF sensor? With the check engine light, is that something that is automatically triggered by removing the MAF sensor? Or is there some other issue.
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I have a 96 aurora that has been giving me alot of problems. It started with the car being real hard to start and very sluggish upon acceleration. I had an engine code of 0300 (multiple cylinder misfire) I had a full tune up as well as an intake manifold gasket done. This seemed to fix the problem for a short time. The problem then started again. this time i was told that it was a fuel pump so i went ahead and changed that as well. Again this fixed the problems for a short time. Now i am having the same problem again. I now have 2 engine codes 0300 as well as 0151(bank 1 sensor 2 o2 sensor) This started after it rained and i notice the problem always seems to be a little worse when its wet out. Also the car is really only hard to start when it has sat for awhile. m If i drive it and come back 5 minutes later it will start right up though it still idels really rough and has no acceleration. Can the o2 sensor be causing the misfires and if so will that make it hard to start. Also if i changed the fuel pressure regulator about a year ago.
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Lately I have found that when I am trying to go up an incline on my road, that my car has trouble accelerating. Almost as if the engine is being choked off like it is about to stall or is out of gas. I have to press the accelerator almost to the floor to get up the incline. The suddenly it will lurch and accelerate rapidly as if I have put the car in Power Mode.
I should also add that this only happens when the engine is cold. I didn't have this problem last year at all. I usually wait a couple of minutes after the engine starts before I try to drive, but that doesn't seem to work.
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Experienced sluggish acceleration with their "09" Santa Fe. I have the 2.7 liter 6 cyl. engine and it seems so sluggish when accelerating. I have replaced all the plugs with some best rated ones specific to my model. I have tried one of the best rated fuel system cleaners. It still seems to have no pep, my daughter's 1999 Honda has far more get up and go.
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I was on my way home suddenly the acceleration of the trib went sluggish.... low idle especially when you put it on drive and with the a/c on. It can rev but it feels like you are revving a 1.1L engine.
What could be the cause? I already had the sensors etc cleaned 6 months ago.....It has NO check engine light.
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2007 F150 King Ranche 4wd 5.4 192000 miles.
I started noticing a little stutter when trying to hold 45 mph if I hit a mild incline, and also at 70 or so if i hit an incline.
Around the same time, I noticed that acceleration seemed sluggish when getting on the interstate. Gas mileage dropped from 16-17 mpg combined to 12-13 mpg combined.
Historically, since I bought the truck 3 years ago, if I go WOT to get up to highway speed (Not my normal mode of driving, more of a test) I would get a misfire on cylinder 8.
About 2 weeks ago, driving around town, I got a check engine light. The code said it was rich on bank 2. Cleared the code, it has not come back.
Here is what I have done:
Flushed the tranny (Vehicle history shows this has been done consistently since original purchase)
Changed all 8 plugs (none broke!) and all 8 COPs. - Fixed the misfire on cylinder 8.
Still sluggish and still have the stutter at 45 and 70 on an incline. I know it's not a racecar, but 0-60 in 19.6 seconds seems quite unreasonable.
New Fuel Filter
New Air filter
Cleaned MAF sensor
Had the back pressure on exhaust checked. No blockage there.
My torque app tells me the TPS is functioning normally.
No codes are being thrown, no CEL at this time.
What am I missing? I have a reader that will chart up to 8 sensors as I drive.
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I have an 08 460 LS. I am experiencing sluggish acceleration. It feels like the car is in the wrong gear and has no power. This is intermittent and most of the time ok. Occasionally it is jerky when pulling out when it has proper power.
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I have encountered a problem with my car engine. I noticed the car was not putting out enough power. When I press on the gas pedal aka accelerator the car drives real slow or sluggish; it seems like there's something clogged. I recently replaced the alternator which was draining the car battery. Since then the car starts up without any problem. I assumed its the EGR valve. The original EGR valve was quite carboned up but the used one from the junk yard didn't do much justice to the problem.
Additionally, the car is rough idling which I believe was due to bad gasoline.
Catalytic converter was struck by curb and heat shield was damage. Everything seems to be intact!
2000 Pontiac Grand Prix SE 136km+
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The check engine light is on, all the gear indicator lights are on and acceleration is sluggish. I'm taking it to the dealership tomorrow, but wanted to know where I stood before talking to them. I don't really trust them. Transmission? Gear shifter?
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I have a 2007 Mazda 5 and over the past few days, I notice the acceleration seems slightly sluggish, especially on inclines. Then last night I had a problem where I was driving and whenever I took my foot off the accelerator, the car would stop (rather than gradually slowing). And when I put my foot back on the accelerator, the car jerked forward before finding the right speed. I parked and after work, it drove just fine. Drove fine this morning also. The shop says I need a new solenoid purge valve, but after reading about that valve, I don't understand how it could cause my problem. The car didn't stall whom it stopped, it just stopped moving forward.
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I am having some trouble with my 02 Buick recently. The acceleration from a stop is very sluggish and gear changes come slowly, although they still seem to shift smoothly. The first thing I did was check the fluid levels and I can find nothing wrong there. The trans fluid was last changed 3 years ago, but the level, color, and smell are all normal so surely that couldn't be the culprit ?Unfortunately, that about exhausts my diagnostic skill.
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I have a 2004 Prius, ~150k miles. At about 80k I replaced the inverter coolant pump as a preventative measure.
Recently, the car has shown an intermittent lack of power, and abnormally sluggish acceleration, which seems similar to what I've heard about the failsafe mode of an overheating inverter, except no warning lights appear. We have had some hot days this summer in SLC, Utah (100+ deg). It's a sporatic issue that seems much worse on hot days. The weather has been hot, but we've had hot days in past years and not had this problem.
Yesterday, the car showed the worst ever such behavior and was nearly crippled for my wife (why do these things always happen when the wife is driving alone?). She was returning home from a ~ 1hr appointment, where the car was parked in the sun, ambient air temp was ~103 deg. The car was very sluggish and ICE was revving much higher than normal. The battery fan that vents next to the rear passenger-side door was running at the higher speed than she's ever heard it before. I asked her at the time about the battery level, and the display showed two bars, even though she was going mostly downhill. A/C seemed to be working, but she turned it off. She was able to limp home. It did seem that when the battery charged a bit, performance improved somewhat.
After I got home a few hours later that evening, (temp ~90-95 deg), I took it for a spin and it seemed fine. I'm pretty sure I detected a slight hiccup in power one of the times I punched it, but nothing drastic. She drove it this morning (84 deg ambient, ~75 deg overnight low) and it seemed normal, except that she could hear the battery fan (we almost never hear it running), but it was much slower than yesterday.
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2004 Santa Fe 2.7L V6 2WD ... Car was running fine, filled it with gas, and upon starting, heard a backfire into the intake manifold. It coded for a Cylinder 3 misfire so I had plugs and wires changed.
Now...The car starts, idles rough, accelerates sluggishly, and running rough any time it was around 2000 RPM. After I changed the plugs, it started bucking a little and stalls when I take off in the morning.
Coded and it's reading 7 codes, but some are duplicates:
-P0274 Cylinder 5 Injector Control High
-P0305 Cylinder 5 Misfire
-P0102 MAF or VAF A Circuit Low Input
-P0050 H02S Bank 2 Sen 1 Heater Circuit
-P0030 HO2S Bank 1 Sen 1 Heater Circuit
-P0274 Cylinder 5 Injector Control High (Shows Twice)
-P0102 MAF or VAF A Circuit Low Input (Shows Twice)
After having a backfire and then cylinder misfire...replacing the plugs and wires.
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1991 Acura Legend 6 cylinders
For about a week, my car was hard to start, and very sluggish upon acceleration. By Friday, the car was not getting over 20 mph, chugging, and semi-backfiring. I took off the valve covers and found quite a bit of oil in the 2nd cylinder, along with a crude covered ignition coil. I replaced all 6 spark plugs (properly gapped) and bought a new coil for the #2 cylinder. I also replaced the valve cover gaskets, and all 6 rings to prevent more oil seepage. After putting everything back together, making sure wires were correctly aligned, the car will not start. It cranks, but does not turn over. I put the old coil back on, and it did the same thing- crank but no start. Have I lost compression? How can I restore compression? The engine sounds so close to turning over, but not quite there. I'm stumped.
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