Gmc - Jimmy :: 1997 - Won't Start When Moist Outside / Crank Till Battery Dies
Jan 13, 2014
1997 Jimmy, 4.3 ... This has gone on for two years and over two grand. I am slowly going insane. When it starts, it runs GREAT...but if it is moist outside, it is not going to happen...can crank it til the battery dies. I have replaced: spark plugs, fuel pump, MAF Sensor, distributor cap and rotor, stupid poppet fuel injection, battery x 2, and the ignition switch. It used to pull a random misfire code, but now has NO codes. I have been through five garages and four really good at home mechanics. When it is not starting, it has spark at the plugs and good fuel pressure. Last mechanic wanted to do a second fuel pump with the new injection system...I swear I think it is because I am a girl.
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I've got a 2002 Ford Sports Trac that won't start ! It will crank till battery dies but is not getting fuel. I have had it towed 4 times in the past year. of the 4 times,this last time it wont start. Every time that I have had it towed back to my house and dropped in the driveway it has started up with no problems. It will run for a few months or more.This last time it would not.
Could this be an electrical problem.Maybe loose ground somewhere or something else. Would like to rule out some things before investing in a fuel filter or fuel pump. Would hate to buy new FuelPump and that not be the problem. Can't find free wiring diaghrams for this issue.
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I have a 2000 Jimmy and it just won't start. All lights come on and horn works. No crank when I turn the key. I had this problem before and the problem was a bad starter relay. I replaced the relay. The vehicle started up fine and ran fine for a few days. I went to start it this morning and it wouldn't. Battery is good, changed the plugs, wires, starter, cap and rotor within the last 8 months. Someone made a reference to my security system. Are there known electrical problems/interference between security system and other systems?
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1996 GMC Jimmy SLS. I've looked at the "starting issue" threads in this forum but none are quite the same as mine. When you initially try to start the Jimmy (cold or warm), it seems to just crank for 20-30 seconds before it even tries to fire. New plugs, cap, rotor, wires. Battery is 2 months old, and so is the alternator. What about the relays or starter. It's not an intermittent problem either. This happens EVERY time you start the vehicle. The jimmy sat for a good while before we bought it, but would that cause the starting issue? It seems to run fine after it starts, but hesitates (stumbles)a little coming up off idle when its warm.
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Starting one time in January, the SUV would have all ACC power but failed in every attempt to crank or turn. Nothing happened whatsoever when the key turned. No dim in the lights, the battery was fine. After about 30 minutes it started right up.
The issue started again this week, occurring twice. Both times while the vehicle had been sitting for more than 4 hours. I'm unsure what the issue is. I took it to Autozone to have them try and diagnose it to no avail.
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2001 Celica, battery dead after seeming to crank more slowly each time it was started during the day (wife was driving). I disconnected the battery to charge/test it, after reconnecting it started immediately but after 1-2 seconds engine dies. RPMs can be coaxed up to 3,000 in that time, but even though it seems to be running fine it shuts completely off, no coughing or sputtering. Won't start at all unless key is turned off and then back on, then it will do the same as described above.
It's giving a P1300 Igniter Circuit Malfunction No. 1 error code. Possible causes listed are:
- Ignition Coil No. 1 harness is open or shorted
- Ignition Coil No. 1 circuit poor electrical connection
- Faulty Ignition Coil No. 1
- Faulty Engine Control Module (ECM)
Seems to me a lot like the last, the ECM.
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what part is causing car to be unable to idle without me keeping my foot on gas till it's warmed up in morning? It does not act like that at lunchtime & 5pm no matter what the temp gauge reads when I get in it at lunchtime & 5pm: at those times, it just cranks and stays on till I shut it off.
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Starts fine. Runs fine till warmed up. Then dies at idle and runs rough on gear till 1000 rpm. Has only coded iac when unplugged. But would idle with it unplugged. I replaced it. Also got crank can code once while checking it ...
2001 dodge ram 1500 318 engine ....
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So, I've already made a few threads on this particular truck (4.3L fuel injected 93 jimmy.) My main problem was big backfiring and shuddering after driving for 30 minutes or so. After it began to act up like that I would park, and let it sit for 20 minutes or so. Upon, restart it wouldn't turn on right away and I would have to hold the key down until it slowly came back to life quietly (quietly as in I would have to guess when the truck was started because I couldn't tell when I had the key down). Another thing to note about the prior sentence is once you coaxed it back to life and killed it to restart again it would fire up fine. Well here are the repairs I have made so far: New alternator, temp sender, couple sparkplugs and I mean to change the rest, and a fuel filter. I changed the temp sender and fuel filter today, and the backfiring has seemed to stop as well as acceleration being smoother and not quite so fast on the deceleration.
In other words, the power increase from a new fuel filter was noticeable (water really won't run through the old one and I had to really blow on the end to get air to come out so obviously clogged up.) The problem of holding the key down to restart also vanished but popped up with a new one instead. Rather than force it to come back to life the truck will just kill itself within 5 seconds upon restart once or twice after sitting for 10 minutes before it actually stays on to be able to drive. Right before it kills itself the fuel pump (I am assuming) has it's normal whine but suddenly gets loud and the car dies and in text form it sounds something like this mmm and dies. Now my step father said he replaced it about 2 years ago. and a year of that it sat because of tranny problems that have been fixed. One more thing of note is an extremely faint *pop*.....*pop pop*... *pop* from the exhaust. The pop is only really noticeable when standing outside and near the vehicle.
The startup problems ONLY occur when letting it sit for 5 minutes or more. If I run it for a while, park it, and immediately restart it starts perfect, but not when sitting.
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So i have had a problem with my battery lately and i have done all the steps to try to fix it. First we took out the alternator and battery and had them tested at orielys and the alternator tested positive and the battery tested positive so we had them charge it then put them back in. They told us it is probably a parasitic drain which means something is draining the battery so we detached all my aftermarket stuff like my air compressor train horn and led lights on my grille guard and it ran fine for 2 days without dying. Well this morning i went to start it and it was dead again....
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Not like when you leave the dome light on overnight. I mean when the 12v battery has reached the end of it's useful life after 5-6yrs. How do you know it's time? What will my Prius actually DO? I ask because,in this -10 weather we've been having, my truck wouldn't start. It did that "old, dead battery thing" we're all familiar with. Got me to wondering about how my Prius will act.
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The fans are operating as they should when my 2007 Camry SE V6 engine is running: if AC is off - fans are off too till the coolant temperature raising to the middle of the temp gauge, then fans are started to spin on slow occasionally; when AC is on fans are running all the time. But when I turn off the car fans are running on full speed till battery is dead. What can it be? ECU?
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Problem started several weeks ago when after starting vehicle the battery light came on and vehicle would not accelerate. Turned off vehicle and restarted and ran fine for a week. Last week same problem, but occured mutiple times at one location. Eventually got vehicle going and drove it homehome Vehicle ran fine the whole time. Now when starting it runs for about 15 seconds (with battery light out) and shuts off. When trying to keep running by feathering the accelerator it has no power and eventually dies. Ran VAG-COM but got no faults.
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I have a 1998 Jimmy 4x4 sls. The problem I have is at 2000 rpm the battery light comes on starts dipping bad alt shuts off and it drops from 14.2 to 12.2. After you release the throttle its starts charging again below 1500 rpms. It has done this with a stock alternator and a 190 amp alternator rebuilt alt. Two different batterys two batterys hooked up at once or indivisually. I pulled the duralast battery looking for grounding issues. I found a severed ground off the three factory grounds. I stripped it replised it then the engine warmed up again the same thing. It has one orange wire going to the regulator ared 10 gauge to the battery.
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I drive a 94 camry with 4 cylinder motor. I just had a head job done on the car. The head had three valves messed up on it and a blowen head gasket. Got that done. Now you can start the car get it warm, shut the car off and wont start back. Turns over but no noise when you turn the key. What it is causing this? Is there something i missed when i did the head on it?
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every few days, the battery stops charging and dies.... tested the alternator, and that provides a charge...tested the battery, and that takes a charge... the car runs off the battery or alternator...tested and replaced all wires between alternator and battery... cannot figure out what is wrong.
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As description says no start and crank . when tested battery is good . automatic trans push button starter??
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I have a 97 F150 w 4.6L engine with auto trans which I bought new and has approx. 150,000 miles on it. Very recently it would crank and crank and not start or sometimes would start. In searching through multiple threads on here many of the Ford techs recommended replacing the IAC valve as a cheap and easy to do fix and I did that. The OEM factory IAC valve appeared to be dirty with black soot. I also cleaned the MAF sensor in the air filter snorkel. I also replaced my very old battery at the same time. I verified that the fuel pump was running for about a second or two and shuts off after the ignition switch was turned to ON so the fuel pump is running since I could hear it. I replaced he fuel filter several years ago so it should be OK and not plugged.
I had to use starting fluid after the battery replacement to get the truck running but after I got it started and I did several driving cycles over three days to make sure the truck computer reset properly and the truck was running fine and starting without a problem. I was checking the starting every 4 hours or so for the first two days and it would start on the first crank every time without a hiccup.
This morning on day 4 when I went to start it the same problem occurred where it would crank several times and not start. I loosened the filter snorkel up and shot some starting fluid in there and it cranked up after a couple of tries and ran fine all the way to work. It seems like I have a fuel delivery issue of some type. I know the fuel pump is inside the tank and very expensive to replace if it turns out that it needs replacement. That is definitely beyond my capabilities. I plan to check the fuel pressure this weekend when I have a chance and can rent a gauge from Autozone.
My question is this: If it turns out to be a defective fuel pump can I just add an inline electric fuel pump outside the tank and have it pull through the tank in the pump leaving the in-tank pump abandoned in place? Are there any other sensors or parts I should be checking for voltages, resistance, etc. that would affect fuel delivery for starting? The truck seems to run very well with no misses of any kind and accelerates nicely after it starts. Also, no "Check Engine" light at any time and the bulb is working since it lights up momentarily when the ignition is turned to ON position.
Update Saturday June 25 - Got a fuel pressure test gauge and got the following results after installing a new fuel filter:
1. Bled off fuel pressure to connect gauge and after 5 or 6 Key On, engine off cycles the pressure came up to about 38psi and truck started up fine after pressure was at 38 psi. The pressure built up slowly after the bleed off with each ON/Off cycle and that is why it required 5 or 6 cycles to reach 38 psi.
2. Key ON, engine idling maintained 31 psi
3. Key ON, engine revved up slightly maintained about 31 psi and seemed to stay there even with more throttle increase.
4. Key ON, engine idling, disconnected fuel pressure regulator line and pressure increased to about 40 psi and stayed there
5 . Left the gauge connected after turning off engine. Key OFF, engine off, after 1 min fuel pressure increased to 33psi. It is about 90 degrees in the shade here today.
6 Key OFF, engine OFF, after 2 min gauge read 33 psi, after 5 min increased to 34 psi, after 15 min decreased to 33 psi, after 30 min decreased to 29 psi, after 45 min decreased to 26 psi, and after 60 min decreased to 23 psi. The pressure seems to decrease slightly with time which I think is what it is supposed to do. Is the pressure decrease rate too fast or about right?
The truck seems to be running fine and starts up immediately after sitting for a few hours but I am making sure to turn the key on/off for at least one or two cycles to build up fuel pressure and the truck starts every time for the last week. Does it seem like my fuel pump is OK or not? Fuel pressure regulator OK or not? Any other diagnostic tests I should run?
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I have a 1999 Gmc Truck 1500 5.0 v8. Notice my truck starting heavy..like a low battery or something. This started getting worse over the week till the point where it cranks real slow. So i bought a new battery. Installed battery and still the same issue...slow crank like it wants to lock up. So i removed starter and notice some wear on the fly wheel so i replaced flywheel. Still the same thing! So this week i bought a new starter and guess what same issue. What is cause for a slow crank.
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I bought a well-used 1991 Buick Century for my son in December '12. At that point I put in a battery that was bought brand new just the month before. The car ran fine until a couple weeks ago. He tried to start it but only got a slow crank, like a low battery. I tried to jump start it, with no difference. Since the car was at his school, I asked his auto shop teacher to take a look at it. The teacher tested the battery on two different machines and determined the battery was bad. I returned it to the store I bought it at, where it was tested as working fine. I then swapped the battery from my car for his, and his battery (the one that was tested bad) started my car with no problems while my battery would not start his car. It produced the same slow crank. I talked to the shop teacher again, who pulled the starter and took both the starter and the battery to various auto parts stores. The starter tested good, but the battery was tested bad at 3 shops, and weak at a fourth. So the car is still sitting at the school, and we're at a loss. What might be causing this problem and how can we get his car running again, short of just buying another car?
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I have a major issue the wife 09 camry won't crank nor start. It all happened after i touched the alternator and heat shield with a rachet . She was complaining about her battery light coming on and flashing so I goes out to see and noticed the ark coming from the alternator so i reached down to touch the wire while the car running and hit both the heat shield and alternator together sparks jumped off of course . I shut the running car off then tightrb up the alternator loose bolt. When I tried to restart the car it wouldn't turn over. I checked most of the fuses and now I'm lost and stuck....
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