Gmc - Jimmy :: 1997 - Transmission Rebuilt / Grinding Sound When Slammed Into 4WD
Feb 24, 2011
I drive a 1997 GMC Jimmy, with 250k miles (all mine). So, I had to have my transmission rebuilt, and the second time I picked it up (we won't talk about the first time) I drove it for a couple of days, and was leaving an icy parking lot, and put it in 4hi. I had it in gear at the time, but wasn't moving at all, and simply pushed the button. It made a grinding sound, then slammed into 4wd. I dropped it off the next day (again), and was told that I cannot put it into 4hi on the fly, that I shouldn't be doing that at all, that when you have a transmission rebuilt, you shouldn't ever do that again.
Given all of the trouble I've had with this highly advertised local transmission shop, I'm not inclined to believe a thing they say- So, I'm asking you all; When I had my transmission rebuilt, did I in fact lose the ability to put into 4hi while vehicle is in gear- let alone moving? I'm not talking about 4lo here, I know I have to be completely stopped and in neutral for that, even my manual says I can go into 4hi safely up to speeds of 45 mph. I still haven't picked it up from the last time I took it in, I didn't have any trouble with 4wd before the transmission rebuild. The first time I picked it up, my driveshaft fell out.
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Car is a 97 civic. I had a input shaft bearing replaced since i had the tranny off. I decided to change the flywheel clutch and bearings. After install I have cold not shift into gears with engine running. I fixed the problem by removing almost all of the free play in the pedal. Should i replace the master to get some of the free play back in the pedal?
Second and main problem, when i release the clutch pedal there is a ratchet/grinding noise. It changes with engine revving and the further out the pedal the louder the noise. I think i attached a noise clip. I have dropped my transmission to ensure everything is installed correctly. reinstalled the tranny with the same noise. Bleeding the clutch did not work either. Pedal does seems soft but not getting stuck.
New parts:
Flywheel
Pilot bearing
Clutch disc
Pressure plate throwout bearing
Transmission Synchs
Bearing kit
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I'm writing to ask a question about my 1997 Mitsubishi Mirage. It has 98,000 miles on it. I had my transmission fluid changed at my regular shop about six months (2,000 miles) ago.
For the past six to eight weeks, I have noticed that a light grinding sound comes from the bottom of the engine compartment. This sound happens briefly, for about 0.5 to 1.0 seconds, when the transmission shifts from first to second. I can try to find previous maintenance records if it's relevant.
My question is, is it worth it to change the transmission fluid again? Is it possible that will take care of this? Are there any homeopathic cures?
I will note that the owner's manual calls for "Mitsubishi Diamond ATF SP-II." The shop didn't have it, so I recommended a Valvoline ATF designed for imports, based on some searching?
So a second question is, would it be worth it to take this to the Mitsubishi dealer to get the official fluid?
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My wife and I purchased our 2005 Chrysler 300 Limited in May 2004.Our 300 has over 117,00 miles as of May 2011. It has been a rather dependable automobile.I have enjoyed it almost as much as my HD. We have performed maintenance as close to the schedule as possible.
I failed to drive the car as often as our second car is an used 2002 S430 which had been my primary auto until about two months. My niece and nephew reported to my wife that the car was not "doing something right". No one could really explain, so I had drove the vehicle myself to determine the issue. The transmission had the feel that it was being "slammed" into the next gear without any clutch. Once the car was warmed up, it appeared that when it shifted at 38-40 mph or 48-50 mph, the car shudders. It almost resembles the feeling you get when you run a car across those strips in the road.
I took the car to the dealership where I have had it serviced locally. They replaced a module which had Technical Service Bulletin from Chrysler for noted similar problems. The first module replaced did not resolve the problem. I took it back and they tried again with the end result being same as before I took the 300 into the shop, transmission appeared to shudder when shifting at the midrange gears.
The dealership as another option recommended that the transmission be replaced. I was not confident with their assessment as I had the distinct feeling they were not clear on the real issue.
I took the car to another service shop which I had more confidence in their work. I asked that they check the car for the problem with the transmission as I wanted their assessment. At this point, I had pretty much decided that I would get rid of the car, but did not want to give anybody else the troubled vehicle nor did I want to have to rush to decide on an automobile to purchase.
The second shop recommended the transmission be replaced, as well several other items be checked as there appeared to be oil leaks. The CAM plugs had been replaced as part of the service the dealer performed though the engine area had not been cleaned of the previous oil. That news was alarming, as the price estimate for a replacement engine was around 6500-7000 smackeroos, way outside of my comfort for repair on the car.
I was able to locate a used transmission with only 86k on it through a very gratuitous turn of fate. I digress, however, as the source for the used transmission was available only to licensed shops.
Two shops had referenced a transmission repair shop as one of the best in our small county. I left the car with the transmission shop for their testing, and it came back with their recommendation that the problem existed in either the coil or spark or an area related there.
I again took the car to the second shop and asked that they check the engine thoroughly for any issues with the spark plugs, wires or similarly related issues. The shop reported that the motor compression was at 190 across all six cylinder and the spark plugs and wires were new and there were no issues with the coils.
I am most happy that the engine is in excellent condition. I have planned to take the car back to the tranny shop as I reported the findings to him of the other shop. I am concerned about the transmission, though I am driving it about 60 miles round trip to work about 2-3 days each week. It still convulses at the mid-range shifting but otherwise runs pretty good after that. The car body is in very good shape as is the interior.
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Everything was fine, running PHP 200X tune, switched to PHP 65 tow and took the 5er toy hauler on vacation last month. Pulled a lot of mountains,etc. While camping, took the truck unloaded to get fuel. Engaged tow/haul going down a mountain to utilize engine braking and the tunes "exhaust brake" and the trans slammed HARD into first gear. This happened twice. I refrained from using tow/haul. Heading home 450 miles with the 5er, I utilized tow/haul again (had it on the whole time, just like on the way down) and the truck and trans were flawless. Get home, switch back to 200X, and I'd say within a week or so, began having trans issues. Loaded stock tune, reset KAM with SCT, disconnected batteries with headlight switch on for a couple days, reloaded 200X and drove it for a couple days. No change.
It felt like the trans was slipping, not "going" like it should when on the throttle, and would sometimes not want to upshift. It would just act "weird". This would usually occur under 40 - 70% throttle (I rarely ever get on it more than that), but sometimes less. Never got any check engine light or tow/haul flashing.
So today I finally did what I should have weeks ago, took off work and ran the truck to a shop.
- First the tech hooked it up to the scanner. No codes.
- Test drove it. He said it drove fine for him. It was fine for me as well, driving it from my house to the shop (I didn't "get on" the throttle though).
- He monitored the voltage from the trans temp sensor. He said the voltage was fine, didn't spike or do anything crazy. He didn't seem 100% positive on this but, said it starts out at 5V cold and voltage should drop as the temp increases, which it did. However, the temp started out at 300 and then dropped to 200 as he was driving. #1 the temp isn't (shouldn't be) that high, and #2 it should increase while driving not drop. The temp shown on my Torque Pro app hit 149 on the way to the shop and 168 on the way home (90 degrees outside). So he seemed to think there was something screwy there.
- While driving it, his scanner showed a trans overheat (over temp/high temp, whatever) code, but no check engine light or tow/haul flash.
- Drove it home. Trans was fine until I got on it a bit and then it acted funny again. But just driving normal with light throttle it is fine.
* Thinking about trying a new temp sensor.
* Could it be in limp mode which is why it feels like it is slipping, i.e. doesn't have the normal power I'm used to?
* When the tow/haul light flashes, is it the tow/haul light on the instrument cluster? That's the only thing that lights up when I'm in T/H. Where you push the button never lights up. Assumed it was just white lettering and not a light.
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So the other day I slammed on the brakes when traffic came to a halt on the highway. As I slammed down on the pedal, all the sudden the pedal lost pressure and went nearly to the floor, but firmed up just before bottoming out. My brake and ABS lights went on as well. Someone told me there is some kind of failsafe that blocks off the line if it ruptures, so maybe thats what happened? The brakes seem to work fine and are not loosing any more fluid, but the warning lights remain and the taillights do not light up.
So when I got home I took a look. On the fender side under the fuse box there was a lot of brake fluid, and looked like the line going from the master cylinder down to some kind of module (abs thingy?) below it was all rusted.
Today I replaced the line, and bleed the rear brakes. There did appear to be a ponhole in it, right where it would have been spraying the fender side where I saw all the fluid. The pedal is very firm right from the get go and brakes seem to be working fine. However the brake and ABS light remain, and my brake lights still dont come on when I press the pedal. Do I still have a leak somewhere or is there something else I have to do to clear the warnings and get my lights back?
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I have a 2005 Ford Taurus. We had an $1800 rebuilt transmission put in 8 months ago and it's already giving us problems! The engine light has also been on. We took it to autozone and multiple codes came up. We've already put way too much money into this piece of shit and I don't want to get screwed by another mechanic! Where do we go from here? Is there anything we can fix ourselves? The codes are p0300, p0301, p0305, p0316....
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Our 2003 Odyssey had the transmission rebuilt last month after the original finally failed (215,000 miles). After the rebuild, third gear has a whine. (I don’t recall if it was there before the rebuild – it’s the wife’s ride, she wouldn't have noticed it anyway, and apparently I didn't either). The whine pitch varies with RPM, and is louder if the transmission is under a load. Going up a hill with the accelerator depressed makes the whine louder – taking your foot off the accelerator quiets it. I have a warranty for two years on the rebuild, but before I go back and start asking them about the noise, I was wondering what would cause it? I am worried they didn’t rebuild everything and will just tell me the whine is “nothing to be concerned about.” The transmission shifts smoothly and appears to operate normally other than the whine in third gear under a load.
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So against my better judgement I rebuilt my C6 myself. It's all back together and in my 79 F150 2wd 400cu. It seems to not want to shift into 2nd on it's own. I can manually shift it into all the gears but 2nd feels like it slips. So here is a list of parts with questions:
I used Mercon V instead of Type F. The transmission is a 1987 and the bottle says it covers vehicles requiring Dextron/Mercon.
I installed a FF servo lever with a P servo. My kit didn't come with a new spring. What effect would a worn spring have?
When adjusting the band, I set it to 120in/lbs and backed it off 1.5 turns. This seemed very loose to me. It leaves the set screw finger tight/loose, so I tried turning it in 1/2 turn but that made no difference and I won't drive it until I readjust it. Also it's a RedEagle wide band, but that shouldn't make a difference.
One place I think I could have a problem is with the modulator. I didn't have a scale to do the 12.5 lbs method, but I had a big syringe, vacuum guage, tubing and t fitting. I could hold the -15" of mercury but the rod didn't go in to the notch like it said it should. I was going to stick the old one in but it's bent and the rod is missing. Will a bad or misadjusted modulator cause the tranny to slip in 2nd? I don't think it's inbetween gears because it does accelerate in 2nd.
I used the BadShoeProductions video along with a Ford Shop manual to assist me.
Complete list of replaced items:
New Modulator
F servo lever with P piston
All Friction and steels
Pressure plates for additional friction plates per video.
All Seals and gaskets
New wide band
New pump
Hughes torque converter
TransGo shift kit
New Sun Shell (Took my end play from .070 to .012)
Everything was cleaned and tested ok per video.
Then only problem with the video is it doesn't tell you what to do when you have a problem, only shows you how to tear down and reassemble.
I used a torque wrench for everything, but if it turns out it's a valve body problem then I will go back through it but only using a nut driver.
The kick down rod is working properly.
My gear selector is set properly.
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I just had my tranny rebuilt it doesn't shift hard all the time but it does from time to time going from 2nd -3rd and 3rd -4th I thought being new it may need to soak up some fluid so the bands can swell so I ask the shop that rebuilt it that question he said they soaked them as they rebuilt it so they should be swollen already then he proceeded to tell me it was electrical is he telling me the truth because the ck engine light isn't showing any faults and if it was electric shouldn't that have been fixed in the shop while it was being rebuilt if it was interior electronic?
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My husband's starter went, so he took it in to be rebuilt. After my husband reinstalled it, as soon as he connects the battery up, the starter engages without the ignition on (not even a key in the ignition). Did the guy who rebuilt it screw up, or is there something my s/o might have done wrong when putting it back in?
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I was driving out of a parking lot and as I accelerated onto the main road my vehicle stopped. I heard a grinding sound and could not go forward or reverse. While the car is in drive, park or reverse my car will roll any which way. It pushed it across the street. I tried to locate my tranny dipstick via visual inspection and manual. I could not find it. Could the stick have never been put back at some point in service and caused this issue. That seems unlikely but the thought occurred. Could it be the velocity joint? Whatever it is it certainly sounds like a transmission issue.
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I test drove my truck yesterday for the first time with the newly rebuilt transmission. I was gentle with the right foot and all seemed well. Once out on the main road it shifted by itself into overdrive for the first time and immediately the O/D light started flashing. I drove it home and shut her off. I test drove it 2 more times leaving overdrive off, no issues. With a snap-on scanner hooked up I let it go into overdrive and O/D light started flashing again, not immediately maybe 5 seconds after shifting into O/D.
Codes are:
p1316 IDM codes detected
P0717 Turbine speed sensor circuit fault
P0715 Turbine speed sensor circuit fault
P0500 VSS fault
10 minutes ago was my last test, O/D flashes only after it has shifted into overdrive. I checked the transmission wire harness and all connections are tight, trans oil level is good & trans temp never went above 150. Could this be a faulty VSS?
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I got a 98 f150 with a 2 year old starter in it. When I go to start the truck I turn the key and it makes a horrible metal crunching sound. If I quick stop, then turn it again, it'll start.
I saw another thread here with 'occasional grinding noise' but this just started, and happens every time I turn the key. Is it time for a new starter or should I look towards the fly wheel or something else???
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I have a 97 250 LD 5.4 that suddenly has a grinding noise coming from the area where the transmission and motor meet. I took the inspection plate off the transmission and can look up inside there and see everything moving. I use a screw driver and if I flex the plate that mounts between the transmission and the motor I am able to get the noise to quiet down until I release the screwdriver and then the plate flexes back and scrapes making the noise again.
I can not see where the plate is grinding when I look up inside there. I can't figure out how to fix this.... Why it would just start doing this on its own as none of the bolts on the housing have been removed except for the two bolts that hold the starter on. (Changed it a couple of weeks ago). Thought about loosening the bolts on the tranny housing but I'm afraid that it would open me up to further problems???
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When I shift the car to drive it revs up to 3 or 4 rpms but only goes about 10 to 15 mph. It doesn't produce power like it should.
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Driving home yesterday I noticed a grinding sound from the driver side rear of the truck. Had a look at the drum brake today and found that the cable to the adjusting lever had snapped and pieces had jammed making the grinding noise. I need to replace the cable and probably have that drum surfaced, but the pads look good.
On the passenger side the hardware is all intact but the shoes look as if they have "spider" cracks everywhere, still lots of shoe left though. What might be causing the cracks on the shoes, and do these need to be replaced? How to do rear drum brakes? (1997 4x4)
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My key is stuck in the ignition of my 97 jimmy, truck shuts off but won't turn the last click to remove the key. What is wrong?
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I have a 97 jimmy that won't start. I have changed the fuel pump, checked the crank sensor, replaced wires. it gets fuel turns over but won't fire.
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The clicking sound that my car makes when the blinker is on- continues to go off when the blinker is not on. It only stops when I press the brakes. Its been going on for 2 weeks....
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I have a 1998 GMC Jimmy and until now we had little to no heat. In the morning when we first leave the house in the cold as we are speeding up we slip into neutral and we either have to pull over or shift the shifter into neutral and back to get it going again. We only notice this happening when it is very cold. How do we fix this before it becomes a bigger problem?
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