Gmc - Envoyxuv :: 2005 - Won't Start Intermittently?
Jan 17, 2012
My 2005 Envoy XUV 6 cylinder, 63000 miles periodically will simply not crank. The problem is random, intermittent but maddening.For approximately the last month the car cranks in the morning 100% of the time. Occasionally, I will leave the office for lunch and the car will not crank. The switch turns, the gauges light up/the needles jump but nothing--no sound, the engine does not turn over--complete silence. Sometimes, I will turn the key and the car starts the very next time, sometimes it is 30 minutes, sometimes an hour. There are no codes registering. It 's been towed twice to the shop. Once there it cranks every time , all the time. They have kept it for days and can find nothing wrong. The last maintenance was replacing a cam shaft sensor. The battery is strong the connection are sound. Since the car cranks at the shop, they tell me they can not determine if the switch or starter are bad. I can find no pattern to this. I turn the key and there is complete silence or I turn the key and it cranks immediately.
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So my little brother bought a 2005 Vw gli, and it's been pretty good on him so far however, one day he was coming back from work and the car suddenly shut off on him and we haven't been able to get it to start.
(Haven't really been able to actually diagnose it fully since this is his second car)
Did the typical unplugging of the air mass sensor to see if it was that. Checked the relays to see if they clicked Checked all the fuses Checked the ignition switch Checked to see if fuel is getting to the injectors Checked some of the grounds( can't locate all of them)When I turn the key, the rpm needle moves a tiny bit
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My car intermittently will not start for no reason. I first thought the fuel pump going out, but you can hear it and no issues with the car running. I was told the Altima has no fuel filter only a screen, so that's not it? The car will start perfectly 10 times in a row and then it just cranks & cranks & cranks almost to the point of draining my battery. The battery is good (had it checked). Then all of a sudden after cranking the car (good cranking) it'll start right up & run normal ... No fuel leaks to be seen, just out of options?? I called a local garage to ask about a diagnostic check and was told without a code he wouldn't know where to start. Well, unless I bring it in when having the problem - that's not possible. 2005 Nissan Altima SE...
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I have a 2005 Toyota Prius with HID headlights. One of the headlights intermittently went out and I decided to replace both headlights. I installed Philips DR2 headlights. I successfully installed the passenger-side headlight and checked it and it worked well.
I then proceeded to install the driver side headlight and realize that I installed it upside down. I adjusted the headlight but forgot to plug the receptacle back in before checking the headlight. When I turned on the headlights I heard a sparking sound. Now the passenger-side headlight will not turn on, but the driver side headlight does work. I tried to replace the passenger-side headlight with a new bulb but it still will not work. I also checked all the fuses, but they seem to be okay.
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So my 05 Mazda 6 was in a small fender bender several months back. One of the items that had to be replaced was the right headlight assembly. Once we got it back from the shop we noticed almost immediately that the right turn signal was working intermittently. We took it back to the shop and they said the assembly was defective so they replaced it and it worked fine for a few days. But then the intermittent problem started again. I didn't have an opportunity to take it back to the shop so we just deal with it. My state inspection is coming up soon and it won't pass if the light doesn't work. I kinda think the headlight assbly is the wrong model. It has a small led looking light in it that is on when the marker lights are on that the other original doesn't have.
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My speedometer stops working when the car warms up. I've taken it to be looked at but it does not "throw any codes" . I've looked at forums and see that this seems to be a common problem. It appears replacing sensors does not work based on the forums. One says a fix is "THERE IS A SHORT WITHIN THE WIRING HARNESS. I had to slice the signal wire at the sensor then through the firewall and spliced in to the signal wire at the instrument cluster. IT WORKS GREAT NOW" which I don't understand. If I tell this to a mechanic would they understand?
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I have a 2005 325xi BMW with 31,000 miles I get regular oil changes. Recently the engine seems to be running a little rough. The other day, after driving about 15 miles, the car started shaking and getting progressively worse. At first it seemed like the tires, but later it seemed like the engine. Also, when I accelerate, it seemed to get more rough, but again, not all the time. Last night, it was the worse yet. After I left the car for 2 hours, it didn't happen right away. Then it did again, but with 2 more miles to go til home, it stopped! Not sure if it's the fuel pump, fuel filter or even something with the wheels (sway bar?)?
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The ABS and TCS lights on my 05 SF 2.7L come on together intermittently. This started few days ago. So far I have not experienced any symptoms or problems. When the lights come on, they remain on until the ignition is switched off. Then it may not come on during the next trip.
I researched this online and from what I have read and understood, this appears to be caused by a problem with the speed sensor at the wheels, likely a damaged tone ring. I called a Hyundai dealer and after much discussion they said they 'might' cover this under power train warranty, but only if the lights coming on are due to damaged tone ring.
My question, is there a way I can inspect the tone rings? If yes, how? Also, what kind of code scanner do I need to get the ABS TCS diagnostic trouble codes?
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We just bought a very clean 06 XL with low mileage. After getting home and getting out of the car, I went back and opened a door to retrieve some papers. The damn alarm went off, and of course the keys were in the house. The doors had not been locked. It does this every time. We don't lock the car in the carport, and if anyone opens an (unlocked door) the alarm sounds. I tried putting it into valet mode, but no difference. Called Toyota customer care, and they said according to the vin, it did not come with a factory alarm, so must be a dealer thing. How to disable this thing or change the settings? It sure looks like a factory alarm.
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We have a 2005 Honda Accord Hybrid that has a hideous hummmm...a basal sound, a very low deep hum. It comes on intermittently - when idling, when driving. You have to rev up the engine to make it go away. The dealer can't replicate the noise...but we have a line of other passengers who can attest.
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I have a 2008 Touring with the HID headlights and auto leveling which appears to be standard. My issue is that the passenger side mainly, although it does happen to the driver side sometimes, will go out. I have replaced both bulbs which did not solve the problem. I have noticed that it seems to be exacerbated by the auto leveling mechanism. For instance when I accelerate past quarter throttle or go up a hill, that's when the passenger side one decides to turn off. I can turn the headlights on and off and that will reengage the headlights, but when I get to a situation where I'm accelerating or going up the hill the passenger side headlight will go out. 90 percent of the time it happens to the passenger side, although I've seen it happen to the driver side. I'm convinced that it is induced by the auto leveling feature.
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2005 GC. My headlights work some of the time. All all other lights work fine. Turning the switch on and off repeatedly sometimes get the lights on but sometime I just have to wait/drive abit before they come on. They also do not shut off automatically after the alotted time.
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Another problem with Bonne. My transmission has a very hard shift intermittently. The car has approximately 102,000 miles. The shop says it needs 2 new solenoids(1-2 & 3-4). The cost is going to be about $1050. I've read of a pressure control valve causing similar problems but not 2 solenoids. When the problem occurs all the shifting is hard in all gears.
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The cruise control on my '05 Avalon Limited was working intermittently for a while. I'd hit the button to turn it on and nothing. Then a few miles down the road, I'd hit it again and it would work just fine. Today I tried to turn it on and nothing. Three different trips today and no luck.
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2005 Camry LE 4 cylinder, 141K miles.
For 6 months the battery light has been coming on intermittently, sometimes not coming on for two to three days and then does it again every so often during the fourth day and so on. Until recently, it's gone a record 6 days without coming on.
However, today it's stayed on all day. Usually, when it does come on, it will go back in in a minute or two. I'd gotten used to it, since the car has always started like nothing is wrong. However, tonight the ABS light came on with the battery light, then the Safety Bag light came on. Then, the radio died, clicking, static, then just dim light, The clock dimmed when the headlights were on, and the headlights weren't as bright as they should be. Stopped the car in a parking lot. Wouldn't not start again, but the dash would come on.
Got a jump and the car started up fine, but there wasn't enough power getting to anything to make the car do much of anything. The car didn't seem to have enough power to send to the transmission to shift, pressing the brake pedal made the dash go black.
Sat a while, got the car to start again, with a fight. Enough power to shift getting to the transmission, but quickly all the lights started coming on one by one again, and none of the lights were bright as they should be. Back to square one.
Just the battery? Replaced the alternator a year ago, when it killed the last battery. The current battery is a year to 13 months old.
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I have a 2005 Nissan Sentra with 65k miles. After having the "routine" 60k tune up, my heat stopped working. Not great timing as it is winter. Searching this board and several others, I narrowed it down to a thermostat or a clogged heater core. I have replaced the thermostat, and flushed the heater core. Now, the heater works occasionally. This is way better than it not working but how to make it work all the time. I flushed the core for about 5 minutes. I have heard that you should flush it for longer, but everything was coming out clear and easy after 5 minutes so I assumed it had done the trick.
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I have a 2005 SC430 and all of a sudden the alarm is going off. Twice today once at 6am and then at 7.30am. Since then (it's nearly 2.30pm) - nothing.
I've not changed anything inside the car since it went off this morning - and nobody was trying to get into the car. The problem of course is that it autolocks and turns on the alarm.
This has only just recently started happening. Is there anyway just to lock the car and disable the alarm?
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Fan blower will only run on high speed intermittently.
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My 2005 has an intermittent headlight problem. The drivers side headlight goes out intermittently when it rains.. That is, it does not blink on and off just that sometimes it goes off and sometimes it doesn't. As I live in Phoenix Arizona this does not happen often but it has been happening for a year or so. I go looking at all the connections, where ever they are.
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I have an 05 Prius with pump issues. My coolant storage pump has been making an intermittent coarse squealing noise since I've owned the car. It seems to be worse in cooler weather. It only happens when turning the car off. Does this pump only operates after shutting the car off? If that's the case, then I won't worry too much about it. If it's supposed to function when the car is on, then I may worry. Does the pump keep running until it's finished, or is it just a timed cycle? I'm concerned if there's air in the line, it may prevent the pump from completing it's job if it's on a timed cycle. Also, if I have to replace this pump, how would I go about bleeding all of the air out of the system?
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My Prius cruise control will intermittently not activate when I try to turn it on. One day it will turn on and work fine. The next day I can not get it to turn on. I took the panel off of the back side of the lever and the contacts look ok for the on/off button.
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