Gmc - Envoy :: Louder Exhaust Noise Than Normal When Start The Truck In Cold Weather
Jan 7, 2013
I have a 2003 GMC Envoy with 76000 miles on it. I heard a louder exhaust noise than normal when I start the truck in cold weather. I had it checked and was told that the exhaust system was OK but that the noise was because the motor mounts needed replacing. I have never heard of this before. Before I spend this money I wanted to see what your reply was to this question. Is it common for motor mounts to have to be replaced on this type vehicle with this mileage and age?
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Leaking exhaust manifold? The truck has a much louder than normal "knock" when accelerating. At first I thought and had some bad fuel in the tank. I eliminated that with a full take of good fuel and some STP but the "knocking" continued. Then I thought that perhaps it wasn't firing on all cylinders but it felt like it had full power. I took it to my mechanic and he said it as a exhaust manifold leak. He said that he has never replaced the exhaust manifold but that it was a "nightmare" and expensive. He also said that it's not a safety issue but on the long run the leak would cause the truck not to pass its emission test. He said the problem was with rusted bolts that would be difficult to remove.
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My F150 exhaust seems rather quiet when I first start it up, but after it gets warmed up good, the exhaust is much louder (which I like). I started wondering if I had a crack up front that widened out when it got hot, so looked under it when I got home today with it hot and still idling, but didn't see any cracks. Also I did not hear any noise like a leak. All sound was coming from the side exit pipe. So... what is the phenomenon that would cause this?
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The truck has 230,000 miles and has a squeal that sounds like a belt but it's not. I have put the truck in neutral coasted with the engine off and the noise is still there. The noise only happens when the weather is cold and only when the truck is coasting. Under acceleration the sound goes away.
Toyota Tacoma Prerunner 2003 (2.7)...
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I have the LED mod and several weeks ago, my LED stopped indicating and the truck would not start in cold weather unless I jumped the terminal on the relay. I replaced the relay and while I was tightening one of the small lugs, the one towards the nose of the truck, I felt it break.
The truck acted just like it had been for the weeks prior, if I didn't jump the relay, it wouldn't cold start, so I assumed, because I had broken that small lug, it wasn't getting the signal to turn them on.
So what now? obviously the GP's themselves are working, as the truck starts when I jump them. But for some reason no signal is getting to the relay. What do I need to check to see what is going on between the PCM and the relay?
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I have an 03 GTI, and recently the engine has been very loud at speeds over 25mph. There isn't any rattling, ticking or chugging sounds. It just sounds like my rpm is at 7000, when it's actually 2000.
I'll try to upload a video tonight of driving around.
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I recently noticed louder than normal road noise coming from he front end of my SUV, which is right at 150K miles. I thought it was bad tires; both front ones had uneven wear. Got new ones and the noise is still there, loudest at 35-45 mph. The tire guys said I need new tie rod ends. From what little I know about those, they don't make the kind of noise I'm getting, but what do I know. I do know they are safety hazard and plan to get them fixed pronto. But will that fix the noise? I had the left side wheel bearings replaced last year, but this sound is not the same as this. Much less pronounced, but still fairly bothersome.
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2014 se , 7k miles. Get a pretty noticeable sound. its hard to explain its kinda like a grumble for about two seconds. on very cold weather starts.
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So recently (since Thursday morning last week) I noticed the exhaust noise of my prius has been louder. Today I experimented a bit and I'm pretty sure it's exhaust related. The car is pretty loud if there is any load on the engine, although still mostly quiet if it's idling. There are no errors presenting and mileage is still great.
Otherwise, it's loud and resonates at a few different rpm points, and I found that when the engine spins under breaking (foot-off coasting over 42mph or in B mode) it also makes noticeable exhaust noise of the same type.
I'm guessing the exhaust is leaking (the sound seems to be coming almost from the left rear seat area? Behind me when I'm driving at least).
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Having problem with an exhaust or fuel smell in the cab? i have had the exhaust checked & the seal on the back door, all have been fine. it has only happened in the really, really cold weather.
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When the weather gets really cold (below 30) I intermittently smell a gas/exhaust smell in the cabin but also on the exterior. I have on two occasions had my mechanic check this and each time he has replaced an "old and cracked" hose.
He has to use the smoke tracer to find where it is leaking and replacing hose. On both occasions he urged me to make the repair immediately as it could be extremely dangerous. (Makes sense if I am smelling gas.)
I am wondering if this could be an exhaust/heating system problem. The car is 11 years old with 120K miles and I want to keep it running a few more years. I am due for front brakes and new tires soon...
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Whenever the temperature is below 20 degrees F and am idling at a stop light, if I have the heater fan running I get a horrible exhaust smell inside my car. I have discovered that I can lessen the bad smell by turning off the fans when the car is idling and then turning it back on when I start to drive.
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Ok, as promised I made a clip of my 2011 Ecoboost towing my 5-6K trailer with a 3" cat back MBRP exhaust. I gained over 2 mpg with this exhaust (MBRP) and intake (aFe) while towing. So far while not towing it only seems to have given roughly a 1 mpg increase over stock. I can barely hear the exhaust at highway speeds after the truck shifts into 5th and 6th gear. The wind noise is literally louder than the exhaust at 55 mph!
[URL]....
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Think i have an exhaust leak in a 1999 s10 blazer lt 4x4 4 door. the loudest spot where i can hear the exhaust noise at cold start and idle, is the passenger side right behind the front tire. on cold mornings where you can see the exhaust smoke prior to warming up i cannot see anything coming from this area. non mechanic types have suggested either the y pipe, or where the y pipe meets the header. Would both have to be replaced to fix this problem if this is the case? and how intensive is this to fix? meaning would the whole motor have to be pulled to remove the entire exhaust piping to have it brazed? my dad is a mechanic, so the tools I've got and his know-how, just need to know what to do? Any definitive way to tell where an exhaust leak is, beyond having a friend cup their hand over the tail pipe, while they look for it..
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Mechanics are stumped. 3 months ago, during a 4WD commute through the snow, I started noticing what at the time smelled like bus exhaust coming into the cabin. My SES lights comes on for 2-3 days, then off for 2-3 days. Codes say MAP sensor and low coolant coolant.level. When the SUV warms up fully, you can smell the odor strongly under the hood, inside the cabin while sitting at a stop light, and inside with the Heat or AC on. Mechanics had the car for days, replacing cam and Map sensors. There is no evidence of exhaust leaks or coolant on the engine. Level of coolant has been dropping slowly in the reservoir.
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Start truck cold, getting clicking noise...sounds like valve but runs great. Warms up and clicking goes away. Remove #1 spark plug and it shows build up of whitish carbon. Will remove the other spark plugs and check. Also starting to use half a can of oil a week. No leaks that I can see. Oil pressure gauge shows high...always has. Also, open door and get out after driving and smell oil. Wanted to make it to 400k but might not be able to with this issue.
Going to do a compression check to see what else is happening. Still have decent power. If cylinder pressure is good would it make since to do just a "top end" rebuild (if it is a valve issue? Should i pull it and do a complete rebuild? What does white build up on spark plug usually indicate?
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My 96 mercedes c280 will not start in the winter. I moved from florida to ohio and when it gets close to freezing or below my car will not start. The lights on rear view mirror (immobilizer lights) blink for 30 sec. I have to wait any where from 5-30 min. to start car depending on how cold it is, otherwise car runs great.
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"Vehicle with smart key system: The indicator light flashes after the "POWER" switch has been turned OFF to indicate that the system is operating." I have noticed that my immobilizer light will not blink when it has the no start issue. usually when the key is out the light blinks but when it won't blink.... it won't start.
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I have a 2000 Ranger 2.5l, 4 cyl. Not long after the truck was purchased, there was a recall for the EGR valve, we took it in had that replaced, no issues. Well 2 years ago we had the P0401 code pop up, we replaced the DPFE and it seemed to fix things. Well a couple of weeks ago the code popped up again, we erased it and it came back a week or 2 later, along with the truck shuddering when the engine is cold. My husband said once the engine warms up the shuddering goes away. To make it more complicated it doesn't always shudder like that, seems to be intermittent. What could cause this problem? Does it sound like the DPFE again? Or something else we are missing?
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Ok, so my 2007 F150 Lariat super crew cab has been at the dealership for a week now with them claiming that a part is on back order. How hard is it for them to get in a right front axle?? Granted, it was in there for other stuff too (which they can not give me a straight answer on if they fixed or not cause they are claiming the technician hasn't done the write up on it yet). My main concern is that they are screwing me around or that something happened to my truck. I am planning on stopping by there on Wed. morning after I get out of work.
Are these trucks known for bad front axles or was there some kind of a big recall on them?
Other things it went in for was the radio having the CD's cycle through when you first start up the truck, but does not happen like that all the time. Black plastic driver side front door hinge is cracked exposing the metal reinforcing part. Whirring/bearing type noise when you first start up the truck when it is cold and sits overnight (which they claim they can't hear yet waited to bring the truck inside and check it out at 3PM when they had the truck overnight from the night before when I dropped it off.) and the front driveshaft not fully disengaging when the truck is in 2wd. Almost seems like the vacuum locking hubs are still engaged.
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Car makes louder than normal regenerative braking (Hybrid Sound). Seems normal when braking at high speeds... then when the speed drops below 30mph the sound is noticeable louder. See Video for example sounds while braking (17, 35 and 50 seconds into the video are most notable).
[URL] ....
Car drives normal other than the regenerative braking sound... Car was involved in a front end accident. Damages were repaired and seem minor. Front Bumper cover, hood, Radiator, Fans, RF Fender. Front cross member and other frame areas look untouched.
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