Gmc - Airconditioning - Acadia :: 2011 - A/C Is Disabled Below 40 Degrees
Oct 28, 2011
I just purchased a 2011 GMC Acadia about 2 months ago. Tonight it was raining and 37 degrees. All the windows were fogged up when I started the car. I put the climate system on defrost but as the manual states the A/C did not go on because it was below 40 degrees. It took over 5 minutes to defrost the windshield. The rest of the windows were still fogged up. As I drove off the car had a very difficult time keeping the windows clear on such a wet and humid night. Early that night it was 40 degree. When I turned the defrost on then the A/C went on and all the windows in the car were clear in 10 seconds. None of the foreign cars I have owed shut the A/C off like this. I also don't recall any of my dad's old GM cars doing this as well. Do all GM cars do this now and why?
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My 2010 Acadia with ~53K miles had a fuel injector go bad. $1,200+ repair bill. I was told by the dealer service agent that when an injector goes bad it usually means it had an open circuit, and that is what happened to mine. Is there a known problem with the injectors? I have 5 more that could potentially fail and I am trying to determine the likelyhood this might happen again.
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So it's happened a couple of times already when the temperature has dropped below 20 degrees my subwoofer stops working until the temperatures come back up.
Is there some sort of protection I should know about because I skimmed through the owner's manual and didn't see anything about it. Seems to work perfect what's the temperature back up later.
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My buddy Mark and I followed the directions to VAG my moms DRL's so they dont come on anymore, but now the lights illuminating her garage door opener and the lights around her shifter do not light up, did we do something wrong or forget something?
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I have been able to disable the seat belt buzzer in both my 2007 and 2011 GS 350. But unfortunately, it doesn't 'stay'. Next time I start the car the buzzer is back. I used to have a 2009 RX 350 as well as a 2009 ES 350 and I had no problem whatsoever permanently disabling the seat belt buzzer in those two cars.
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I have a 06 passat and I installed a kit, and it keeps flickering, any reason why this would happen... My drls have been disabled, and i thought that should clear the problem.. it hasnt..
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I was under the impression that when you enable EV mode the car will stay in EV till around 40 mph or something close to it? I can't seem to go above 10 mph without getting a message stating "EV Mode disabled due to excessive speed"? Is this a glitch or can you really only go 10 mph? That seems pointless if that is the case.
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I recently noticed that using my spare keys w/ my R disabled my vagcom tricks / convenience settings I had done. When going back to my original keys I use 99% of the time, these vagcom tricks become active again w/ no problem. I've gotten the following vagcom tweaks done to my '13 Golf R;
- convenience feature to open and close windows using key
- 4 convenience blinks (instead of 3) when switching lanes
- horn disabled when locking the car
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About 2 months ago, I was driving and my cruise control wouldn't engage on the highway ... I happened to be right near the dealership so I immediately returned there .... didn't turn off the car, but the tech put it in P while I was waiting. I was so ticked off because I thought that may have 'reset' things, and of course when the tech took the car for a drive (in D) the cruise worked fine. We of course never confirmed that the cruise control didn't work.
Today, the same thing happened at the same place, so I returned to the dealership, calling them on the phone, and informing them that I would not turn the car off, or allow the car to be put in park. The service manager met me out front and we went for a quick ride so I could 'prove' that the cruise was inoperative. He confirmed that it was not working, and why. For some reason, I glanced at the dashboard and noticed that the car was in 'B' mode. I mentioned that to the manager and he noted it as well. I must have bumped it somehow while driving as I NEVER use B mode for anything ... ever. I said I wondered if that was the reason, and put it in D, and lo and behold, the cruise worked again.
I haven't checked the manual yet to see if this is stated there, but the cruise control is inoperative if the car is in B mode. Or at least it seems that that is the case. Other than the car being in B mode, it acted just like it always does, and since I was on the highway, I never noticed the braking effect that B mode gives you.
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Purchasing snow tires with OEM rims and trying not to have to purchase a new set of wheel pressure sensors - hence my question: Can the wheel air pressure sensor alert be disabled to do away with that nagging info?
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How to Fool Your Tire Pressure Sensors
Step by step instructions for do-it-yourself repairs
Browse all: Tires and Wheels Guide....
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I'm still enjoying my 2012 pip but I came across a couple of issues.
The daytime running lights (DRL) were not working so I took it to Toyota to check it out. I also contacted the previous owner who thought that they working. Toyota performed their 101 multi point inspection and discovered that the DRL was disabled at one point and they had to enabled it from the ecu. I found that interesting but they are now working and they look great.
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What gives? Tire pressure light on but the system is disabled
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I have a 2010 Chevy malibu LT with 120000 miles. And today while I was driving my engine disabled and there was a message of reduced engine power. After letting it sit I turned the key and nothing happens all the lights and things come on but the reduced engine power and engine disabled shows up. The car won't crank up. Earlier that day I had my engine coolant temperature sensor replaced. What is going on or what needs to be done? I am getting so frustrated with this car.
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I just got my car back from a body shop, after they fixed all the rock chips on the front. Now I realize the seat position memory is not working for both the driving and passenger seats. Not only the button does not move the seats, but I can't set the new positions into the memory either.
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I disabled the backup beeper in my 07. Now I have an ever so slight horn chirp that I hear. There is no consistency to the chirp, but it is a bit bothersome.
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My new-to-me (bought in May this year) 2010 Prius last night suffered. Nearing home on my usual 21-mi commute from work and on a secondary road, I was stopped at a red light. As I normally do when at a red light when a rather spirited start isn't needed (no or few cars behind me, not uphill, etc) I pushed the "EV" button to take advantage of electric acceleration up to 25 mph. All seemed normal as the light turned green and I started off. I don't know if I reached 25 or not - must've been close - when all of a sudden the acceleration stopped as if I'd taken my foot off the pedal when indeed I'd not. Simultaneously, a circus of lights lit up on the dash along with the fairly ominous message of "Check Hybrid System."
As with all things electronic these days, I figured a good ol' fashioned reboot was in order. Turned it off and back on and...same thing of course. Being near an intersection and a very bad place to be stopped - and not knowing if the car would actually move - I pressed the accelerator anyway, despite the warning lights, and indeed the car started to move. It seemed to cap the speed at 12-13 mph, which immediately seemed like some kind of self-protective safe mode. Luckily, I was within spitting distance from home, so I limped the last 1/4 mile in this state - and at 12 mph.
There are probably 5-6 warning lights on in addition to the big "Check Hybrid System" message. Let's see, first and foremost, the yellow triangle of death, followed by what I think is the Slip indicator (car icon with wavy lines), the CEL, the encircled exclamation point which I think is the braking system, and I forget, a couple of more. I should've snapped a pic but I was in a hurry to troubleshoot.
So I used my Actron scanner to pull the P0A94 code. I didn't see that it's able to read the sub codes, or maybe that's a capability that only the expensive dealer scanners have. Anyway, I can't conclude what it is other than the generic "DC-DC Converter Performance". I know that here and elsewhere there's a list of all DTC codes, and I saw that this code has 17 sub-codes, many of which are related somehow to the inverter, which seems to have been the subject of a recall in Gen II models (acutally the inverter cooling pump IIRC) but not on Gen III.
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On my wife's 2013 Tiguan SEL, i took into a indy VW repair shop, to have the seatbelt chime disabled cos i don't have a vagcom myself.
Anyway he went to instruments, adaptation, and found it in there, which gave him four options, the factory setting was 2, he couldn't load 1, because it failed, but was able to load 3.. 4 also failed.
I think when i say 1,2,3,4 it said channels ??
Anyway, given 1 & 4 failed, only left him with 2 & 3, 2 being the factory setting.. However for 3, the seat belt chime is disabled BUT only after 6 high pitched beeps... If the seatbelt is on during startup there's no high pitched beep.. If you take the seat belt off after ignition its all fine, no beeps, actually a better way to describe it is the seat belt chime is disabled, apart from the 6 high pitched beeps, if you turn on the ignition without the belt clicked in..
Is there anyway to turn off the annoying 6 high pitched beeps...
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I had recently thrown a code for a 'misfire detection monitor disabled' , never did address the issue. But just the other day the service engine light went off, the light had been on all this time and now it's off. My question is, how do I know if the light is just burned out. Is there something safe I could do to make the light come back on just to see if the light is actually still works.
2000 f 150 4.2 v6 232,000 miles ....
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I have a 2006 Kia Rio. About a month ago, I noticed that the car's AC only works when it's not hot outside. For example, it works when I leave for work early in the morning, but it blows hot air later in the afternoon when the temps outside. Or yesterday, we had an unusually cool day and the AC worked fine all day! But whenever it gets hot outside, the AC will blow hot air! What could be wrong? Relay or compressor clutch, maybe?
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I have a 1999 F150 with a 5.4L. I recently replaced the PCM with a new unit from autocomputerexchange.net that was programed for my truck. I installed the PCM but the truck did not start. The theft light is also flashing rapidly during cranking. I ran a code scanner a recieved the code P1260 indicating an attempted theft which disabled the truck. I read that if you have two keys you can sync the keys with the new computer but unfortunately one of the keys stopped working a couple years ago (not sure why, stopped for gas and it never started back up). Since i do not have two working keys do i have to tow the truck to a dealer and let them reprogram the keys and reset the PATS or can i have a locksmith recode the keys and sync the keys myself.
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