Gmc :: Yukon 1996 - ABS Light Remains On Until The Vehicle Is Shut Off
May 7, 2013
I have a 1996 GMC Yukon with 243,000 miles on it. It has had the following issue for some time: Start the vehicle, all is well. Put it in gear, begin to roll about 3-5 MPH, can hear the ABS system pulse once, then the ABS light remains on until the vehicle is shut off. This happens 95% of the time. Trying to figure out if this is an issue with a wheel speed sensor, or the ABS unit itself.
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I have a 98 yukon w/ 5.7. Was driving the other day and it killed. Restarted with no problem. Happened again the next day but this time would not start. Upon getting it home to check it out i tested the vehicle wire for the fuel pump with a test light and get nothing from the wires (the key was turned ). Tested all fuses and they are good. So now I'm stuck....
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1996 3.8 liter is quiet at startup until it warms up then knocking and oil light comes on and blinks with the knock. worst at idle, oil light goes out and knock gets quiet upon acceleration. cruises down highway quietly and no oil light. mechanic said I should check oil pump, 128000 miles. also wiper delay does not work right, wipers just move an inch then stop. I see3 a relay under dash that says DELAY ACC but don't know what it is for
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I have an 05 escape xls 4cyl that has started acting up in the past 2 weeks. The vehicle has 52k on the clock and has no other issues but what im posting about.
Heres the problem: Vehicle starts fine every time you turn the key. It does not stall or idle rough when engaging the trans mission so I've concluded it has nothing to do with the torque converter. Once the car is running the vehicle will shut off randomly with the THEFT light coming on. I played with it for about 2 hours and have found that it will do this idling in Park, while in Reverse, and while in drive. The vehicle also will shut off while I am going down the road and every time it does the THEFT light is coming on as the problem starts. It does appear that it only happens when the accelerator is not depressed and will sometimes stay running if you hit the Gas Pedal as soon as it starts to happen.
I have tried using another key figuring maybe a transponder is bad...No dice does the exact same thing. I have also noted that i do hear single quiet (tock) when the vehicle shuts off coming from the drivers side lower engine compartment.
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In 1970 I bought one of the first Chevrolet Blazers. I drove it until two years ago when it finally was just too worn out to drive, at close to 300K miles. I sold it to someone who is in the process of restoring it for show. I knew that I wanted an other 2 door Blazer, but they quit making them in 1995. After a long search I purchased an original 86K miles on a 2 door 1996 GMC Yukon SLE. I love this car.However, I have just experienced my first mechanical failure. I am a fairly good shade tree mechanic. At 70 years old I have worked on every vehicle I have ever owned. So I am trying to figure out what has gone wrong with the cruise control. On a return trip from our lake house in Kansas (yes, there are lakes in Kansas) to my home in Nebraska, as I was going up and down the rolling prairie hills, the cruise control started having trouble going up the inclines. Then it quit working altogether. I checked the fuses and they are ok. My next thought is the control unit has quit working. I looked for a replacement unit and saw the price.... Is there something else that I could check before I replace the control unit? Is there any way that I can verify the control unit is at fault
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I have a 2011 Toyota tacoma with 35k miles. Yesterday while driving at about 70-75mph on the freeway with no warning the vehicle shut down and the engine light came on. It made a clunk about the the time it shut off, it wasn't very loud but I could feel it. I'n not sure if that noise was just the vehicle powering down or transmission kicking from the change in torque? I pulled off the freeway, there were no fluids leaking, serpentine belt was in place. The truck will turn over but not start. The check engine light flashes rapidly.
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1999 gmc suburban shut off no start next morning will crank then act's like it loads (cranks hard for a second then back to normal) has good spark has a fuel vapor out of exhaust but will not fire.
What I've checked
Spark on every plug. Good and new
When I pulled the plugs they were wet with gas
Distributor turns new cap & rotor
Checked time manually (TDC looked at distributor rotor Pointing cylinder at # 1 cylinder
Will check fuel pressure when I get home
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Every time I replace the fuse(under the hood) it blows almost immediately and no interior light work. When on all doors and overhead lights do work so I don't believe it's one of them shorting. Even tried bigger fuse.
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I have a VW 2001 1.8 T. I have had a problem with the ASR light coming on and staying on for more than a year. It is horrible. They can't figure out the problem. I can't tell you how many things they've tried to fix this.
My ASR light comes on while driving on DRY pavement and stays on. My car's performance decreases greatly. I have a case with 800-VW and my local VW has been trying to fix this for a year. The MAF (mass air flow) is still failing, but since it has already been replaced TWICE, they won't replace it again. We got an extended warranty on the MAF as you might recall.
I am at a loss.. they've replaced the air filter, cleaned the throttle body, replaced the ASR switch, they've redone all the ground connections, and replaced the spark plugs. NOTHING IS WORKING. MY ASR LIGHT STILL COMES ON 4 DAYS/ WEEK.
Right now, my VW has their techline involved and even they don't know what to do. I've payed for several UNNEEDED repairs for my car and the ASR light still comes on.
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I have a 96 Jeep Cherokee, 2wd, 4 cylinder, manual transmission, I have had some work done on it. Recently, I had the clutch redone, then I had a tune-up and the motor mounts replaced.
After the motor mounts were done, I was unable to get the vehicle into gear. My mechanic adjusted the clutch pedal and it was running as long as I did not put it into reverse. I had driven it about 3 miles from my house, parked it.
Came out to start it a couple of hours later and it would not turn over. It wanted to start but no engagement. I had to have it towed to my house where my mechanic could check it out.
Since that time, we have determined that it is not the fuel pump, we changed out the fuel injectors, replaced the coil, replaced the crankshaft sensor and it is still doing the same thing. Have gone through all the suggested remedies.
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Looking for a diagram of the locations of the oxygen sensors on this vehicle, I am getting miss information from all around saying it has anywhere from 2-4 oxygen sensors and i think it has 3 am i right? two in the front behind the radiator on the exhaust manifold, and 1 somewhere by the catyaltic converter. There isn't a whole lot of manuals out there for these cars.4.0 ltr engine...
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I have a 2015 gti pp autobahn. Car has 3700 miles. I had an injen CAI installed and a spulen/hks bov kit installed 2 days ago. It was installed by a performance vw and Audi shop. I drove about 100 miles in past 2 days. Driving to work today I heard the turbo spooling and then no bov sound. The car started limping. The EPC light is now one. The car is in limp mode doesn't really go over 50. I popped the hood all pipes appear to be connected and can't find a boost leak.
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1996 Chevy 2500 (3/4 Ton) 4x4.
My vehicle inspection wouldn't pass the jounce bumper bracket (stops upper control arm from traveling too far) on the drivers side front. The bracket is rusting out and needs to be repaired or replaced. The bracket is welded to the frame.
Does it sound feasible to cut a bracket off at the wreckers and weld it to my frame?
Do they allow zip disk cutters in Pull a Part?
The passenger side bracket is OK.
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What's the fix for a 1996 Ford Ranger when the engine shuts if the vehicle is put in reverse? (It will run in drive, but not in reverse; fuel filter, air filter and vacuum hoses have all been checked).
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My Explorer speedo works fine for the first bit of riving but when the vehicle gets warm it goes to exactly 50 and stays there.
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2006 durango 4.7 awd checked all recalls, none outstanding. The door ajar light remains on which means the interior light does while driving (along with the warning alarm beeps) and after leaving the vehicle also.
Been around all the doors to make sure they are shut, but cannot turn it off. Where would the switches be located on the doors or is there some other thing I should be looking for.
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I just purchased a 2006 Prius with 89k miles and it has a problem with the drive train and randomly losing all power on the freeway causing me to make emergency shoulder stops to reset the car.
The symptoms are as follows:
-red triangle on, orange circle with ! on, check engine light on, hybrid monitor green car symbol is red with ! in it
-traction battery fan is always on when car is powered
-the car has never driven under electric power
-shifting problems, sluggish acceleration and all power loss on freeway
-hybrid monitor system lies and shows the battery full one second and empty the next.
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My car's front bumper got ripped off this week , parking spots on the grass pulled it off) Ever since then, I've been having weird ass issues. After it happened, I zip tied it back together and started to go to town when my car kicked itself into EPC mode, but only when I went on the throttle. If I let off, the EPC light would go off, but the traction control light would stay on (ESP light, whatever). I killed it and realigned the throttle body (I think that's what it is. Where you hold the brake and throttle in for about 30-60 seconds while the key is on but not started then kill it and restart it) and after I did that, it will start and only stay alive for half a second then die. It's started to make a god-awful crackling noise as well in the engine compartment near the Alternator.
[URL]....
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So I was on my way to work and i noticed my check engine came on. i get out of work and its still there. i go to the movies to watch friday the 13th (ok movie, worth watching in my opinion)...still on. i drive to my friends crib after to chill...still on.
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i had a scratch on the front door of my 2009 Camry Le, the door was removed and repaired.After that repairs the airbag indicator light has remain on it does not go off. How to turn it off or reset it.
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77 Celica GT Liftback, 20R, 250K original miles. Alternator light recently illuminated. Checked battery connections / full charge, replaced alternator rebuilt, replaced voltage regulator new after market. Checked fuses. Alternator light remains illuminated. Had Charging system checked at Autozone - all checks out OK, yet light remains illuminated. Checked drop on charging system with voltmeter and alternator appears to be handling the load when electrical turned on. Checked / cleaned connections at regulator / alternator - alt light remains illuminated. Why the light will not turn out?
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