Need to diagnose issue with LT signal operation? Recently started experiencing intermittent loss of directional signal when signalling left only. Right seems to be fine. Replaced CB at fuse panel, but no apparent improvement.
View 4 RepliesI just bought a 93 XL and had some parts to replace.
Had to replace the clock spring and wiper/signal assembly to restore the wiper squirter function, cruise, horn and airbag.
Thing about the repair is that now my cruise quits holding the set speed when I lift the turn signal to change lanes from the left to right lane or turning right.
Does not turn the cruise off; it just does the same as hitting the brake. When I hit the resume button, she goes back to the set speed. Replaced it with a new assembly, thinking it was a defective part. Not so.
The replacement part is not OEM.
The left turn signal blinker on Toyota works sometimes and not others. It is weird, it seems when the weather is cold, it works, warm weather it works sometimes.
The car is: 2002 Toyota 4-Runner, limited....
I have a 1998 Camry. My directional light and click correctly when I tun them on. When I GENTLY turn off the directional signal, I hear the relay continue to click, however the dash lights do not blink, nor do the outside lights. If I let the directional lever jump back into place, the problem does not occur. Is it the switch in the column, or the relay?
View 1 RepliesI had this happen to me the other day and as it is outside of the usual for most cars, I thought I would mention it as it could lead to dead batteries if one doesnt pay attention to it.
If you turn off the Touareg with the directional blinker engaged, the parking lights on the side that the blinker was indicating will stay on after the car is turned off. The MFI iwill display PArking Lights ON.
When it first happened to me I started playing with the headlight switch to turn off the parking lights to no avail. I then cam to realize that it was the blinker that needed to be centered to turn them off.
We have a 2015 Sonata 2.4 Sport that has developed an intermittent turn signal problem. When the left turn signal is turned on, the right signal will blink. When the right signal is turned on, nothing blinks. A new symptom that recently started is sometimes neither turn signal will turn on regardless of the position of the turn signal stalk. I managed to get the car to dealer #1 while the LEFT=RIGHT & RIGHT=NOTHING issue was happening but while troubleshooting it, they ran across an inactivated aftermarket alarm system that dealer #2 that sold me the car had installed. I guess the alarm they install is so cheap, it's not even worth removing if they are unsuccessful in upselling you at the time of purchase.
Since dealer #1 would not troubleshoot any further unless the alarm was removed, I retrieved the car and took it back to the original dealer #2 I bought it from. They removed the alarm and the turn signals started working again, however, this lasted about 2 weeks before the symptoms returned. I booked an appointment at the dealer #1 to bring the car in & half way during the drive there, the turn signals started working again. With nothing to show them, I didn't drop off the car. Now the problem is back. Since it tends to come and go, I have try and time when I can drop the car off so it's happening when they get it.
I have a 72 F250. When I put the left turn signal on and apply the brakes, the signal stops blinking. I checked the bulb and it was fine. What is the likely cause?
View 2 RepliesMy 8-year-old (2003), 134k mile Nissan Maxima has a new quirk. When the car is started from completely cold (as in over night), there is a distinctive intermittent squeaking noise (think water being rubbed against glass) coming from the left front somewhere near the tire. The car only does this for about 5 minutes or so until it's warmed up and it has to be going 20 miles an hour before it starts. Once the car is up and running you can turn it on and off all day, let it sit for a few hours even, and it's fine. What's going on?
View 4 RepliesMine Door controller started out minor - randomly it would try to roll up the window multiple times when it was already closed, and I'd get "intermittent signal" errors from vagcom. I told the dealer about this, and they didn't want to fix it, and they tried to blame my C2 ECU flash for the door controller problem, possibly because there wasn't anything obvious wrong with it other than the VCDS errors.
Now it has decided to wig out totally - when I open the driver's door, a good 50-70% of the time the car thinks the door isn't open. The MFD doesn't light up, dome light stays off, fuel pump doesn't prime. Open the passenger door and the MFD does display and dome light turns on, but the driver's door will still show "closed" even though it is standing wide open.
If I don't start the car quick enough and I have no passenger, it will re-lock (since it thinks nobody ever opened the door). Weirder still, if I pull the interior handle with the door open, it will usually light up the MFD and show the door open, but only briefly - when I let go of it the door shows closed again. However, sometimes after pulling it a few times it "fixes" and the MFD will show open correctly and the door is fine, for a while...
It has not yet gotten stuck in an "open" position, as that would mean I couldn't lock the car.
Truck sat for 1 1/2 years. Changed filter and put in 15 gallons of fuel. Had maybe 1/2 gallon old fuel in tank. MAYBE. Fixed fuel line because it wasnt getting fuel and it fired right up and idles great.
Truck has no acceleration over 2500 (or so) RPMs but idles fine. This is depending on how hard you push the pedal of course.
If you drive the truck normally like a grandmother it seems to be ok. As long as you dont need a passing gear or need to accelerate more than 1/4 pedal
If you try to push the pedal to get the next higher gear it will sometimes hit the gear fine. IF you floor the truck it will totally lose acceleration. Then the truck will run like crap even slow for a good while. But then it will clear up for the low end. Then you can drive it normally. Then when I think I can test the upper end I get the same thing again.
I have a problem with the Bold-Sport camera, but am not sure if it is the radio, the camera, or even possibly a fuse. I get a fault code with vcds that says the rvc control module intermittent/no signal. Once I clear the code, and put my car in reverse with the headlights on, the camera does not work, or works for a second, and shuts off. If i turn the exterior lights off, the camera seems to function normally. As soon as I turn exterior lights back on, camera no longer displays again. I have been having some problems with the rns-510, so am assuming it could be the radio, but am not too sure. The problem I have with the radio is that sometimes not all the interior light hard buttons light up. I will post up a pic as soon as I can.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2004 GMC Yukon SLT, 2WD. At night, when I signal right, my high beams come on. After making the right turn, my signal disengages and the high beams return to low. Now I only make left turns at night.
View 1 Replies2000 B5: new front rotors & pads 3000 miles previous. Now on sharp turns L or R the dash signal 'check discs' appears. Always resets upon restarts. Can be triggered by reversing the vehicle and bumps. Turns less than 90 degrees are usually not a problem. Both front wheels were pulled; no apparent wiring or connector problems. Any quick fixes? How to disconnect this electronic aide? and avoid the irritating "beep". I drive very low miles / year and know how to monitor brake wear.
View 2 RepliesInteresting condition I've encountered during this wonderful little mini project. I installed LED lights for my turn signals. As expected, I got hyperblinking. Just put in an LED compatible flasher (pain in the butt to install that thing...), and now my blinkers work fine, but my whole dash flashes if I signal with the rest of my lights off. Works fine if the light stalk is set to parking lights or full on.
View 8 RepliesI have an '07 Azera and the turn signal sound is intermittent. The signals flash normally, but sometime I hear the flasher sound inside the car and sometime it is dead silent. Cannot seem to correlate it to temperature or other factors. Any way, I assume as the lights flash with no sound that either the flash or the sound is electronically generated, but cannot be like an old school mechanical flasher. What makes the flasher sound in the Azera and where is it located?
View 1 RepliesI have installed switchback led signal lights. The right side only turn signal lights will hyper flash until I have driven 10-15mins. and then they operate normally. The guys who installed the system went to a better resistor and nothing changed. My installer says he has never seen this issue before. The driver's side functions properly. both sides have always had resistors.
View 3 RepliesMy 1991 mini-motorhome, built on a Toyota pickup chassis with the v-6 engine & 5-speed recently developed a "hiccup" immediately after having the ignition distributor, rotor & wires replaced along with new belts, hoses, valve adjustment, etc. No work was done on the fuel system. Every once in a while (15 minutes to an hour or more, never more frequently) the engine will lose power for about 1/4 of a second, followed by a "thunk" as the slack in the drive train is taken up. It's easy to ignore except when I'm laboring up a mountain in third gear when the "thunk" becomes an alarming "bang". Other than that, it runs beautifully. Check engine light is not on. I haven't been able to associate the hiccup with load, speed, temperature, or anything else. My mechanic has no idea what it could be, and it didn't misbehave when he drove it. What's going on?
View 2 RepliesI have a 85 s10 Blazer that the left turn signal does not work. The emergency flashers all work & the right turn signals are fine. When I turn left signal on lights come on but don't flash dash light is on as well.
View 3 RepliesI have the dreaded intermittent loss of headlights with no warning. My diagnosis has confirmed that I have failing HID lamps and that I am beyond coverage by Toyota or the dealer. I have bought replacement (Philips DR4) lamps and have tried to replace them.
The first time, I tried to replace the driver's side by removing the fuse panel cover and relays, but I could not get the round, rear cover off the headlight assembly.
The second time, I tried to un-attach the top of the bumper to remove the headlight assembly, but I was foiled because the two philips-head screws holding the rubber bumpers and the top of the airfoil to the radiator frame were frozen solid. I have tried to PB-Blast them, but no luck so far. I am considering cutting them off and drilling out the remaining screw body, but I am afraid I can't get replacements. Besides, I really don't don't want to make this a bigger job than it already is.
My left rear turn signal is out, the front works but blinks rapidly. The right sides work normal no rapid blink. New bulbs on left side did not fix problem. Could this be a flasher issue or is this an open circuit. Don't even know where to begin testing wires if this is the case.
View 4 Repliesa friend has a 1999 passat and recently, the left turn signal has ceased to work. I searched and found that the hazard switch/relay commonly goes bad and can cause the signals to fail. It seems though, that in most cases reported on vortex, BOTH signals stop working, and sometimes the hazards too, or they will erratically flash giving a warning before the relay dies. This is not the case with this car. Driver side signal only.
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