Gmc - 2500 :: 2008 - Pulling To Right Severely
Jan 19, 2011
I have a 2008 GMC Sierra 4x4 I just purchased and it pulls to the right severely. I took it back to the dealer and it still pulls.
View 18 RepliesI have a 2008 GMC Sierra 4x4 I just purchased and it pulls to the right severely. I took it back to the dealer and it still pulls.
View 18 RepliesMy pickup runs smooth 95% of the time. It runs rough at red lights and when pulling away from stops. It seems to happen more when the A/C is on.
View 3 RepliesSo I bought this 2007 used with 86K on the engine. After 2 days cats code went off and i had both replaced with brand new ones. Now my truck is making a rattling as i step on the gas at about 2500 rpms. Its sounds like metal in a can swirling around amd as i let off gas the sound stops. It happens often, also the other day in was pulling off and heard a grind for about 2 seconds then stopped never beard it again, it sounds like its coming from the rear passenger side. It sounds like a bearing. This is the noise.
IMG_4285.MOV ...
When driving I seem to be constantly applying pressure to the left side of my steering wheel to keep the vehicle from moving to the right. I've had the car aligned made sure my tire pressures were correct and had my mechanic check the undercarriage to make sure ball joints tie rod ends etc. are all in good working order. Despite all this the vehicle seems to want to wander right and I'm constantly putting pressure on the left side of the steering wheel.
View 4 RepliesEvery time I put my ford into 4x4 it starts pulling to the left and the front end gets loud going down the road. I am not sure what is wrong?
View 2 RepliesJust did a brake job on my IS-F. Everything went smoothly for 50 miles, then as I'm pulling into the driveway I hear a horrible grinding from the front.
Disassembled everything this morning and it looks like the pads are in constant contact with the rotor. Is there a set screw I missed? When I did the brake job, I retracted the pistons slightly with a C-clamp, and did not bleed the brakes. What am I missing?
I just recently bought a used 2004 fx4 with 148k and everything appears to be engaging but front wheels not pulling. I've already replaced the IWE solenoid behind the battery to avail, my question is, when I put it in 4H, light comes comes on, but I don't "feel" the transfer case engage, when I put it in 4L, light on I feel it shift. So could the shift motor not be engaging the front driveshaft even though the lights come on?
View 10 RepliesLike the title says my 08 gs460 is pulling to the left, the steering wheel has to be slightly to the left for me to go straight, if I straighten the wheel out it goes off to the right, it has only been doing this the past two weeks or so. I went to Lexus and they agreed it was pulling and so they did an alignment, drove home, no change whatsoever, so I'm wondering what else it could be.
View 6 RepliesMy wife has a 2008 Eddie Bauer 4x4 explorer and when you are backing up or pulling forward with the wheel turned, it feels like the automatic 4wd wants to engage. The Ford dealership mechanic told me this is normal but it does not do it all the time. Is there anything I can look at to try and figure out why this does it sometimes or if this is even supposed to do this at all?
View 7 RepliesI own a 2015 LX570 with just 8000 miles on it. Been having an issue with my steering position. Every time im on a straight road the car seems to be pulling to the left side if my steering wheel is placed exactly to the center. At first i thought it was an alignment issue as i took it several times to the dealer and they just tell me that there is nothing wrong with it and it drives accurately straight until one time a guy from the dealer came and checked it himself with me and realized the issue and told me that its not an alignment issue its something related to the the electrical steering position not being accurate (( that's what he said)). They took it in and made it accurate as they say, to be honest its not really accurate but much better than before until last week when it became worse and like how it was before, pulling hard to the left, its like if i want to drive straight i need to pull the steering wheel slightly to the right.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2006 F150 4x4, tow package 5.4, edge tuner, magnanflow muffler.
Towing a 21ft fifth-wheel, trailer weighs 4000 lbs, my trans temp will get up around 250 when pulling a large hill.
What is hot for a transmission?
I have a 2005 Ford Fairmont that has only done 71000kms. When traveling on expressways it some times develops a severe shudder to the extent that I have to pull over. Generally when I pull over and wait for a minute or two (engine still idling) and then pull out it goes away. I also have noticed a loud thump from underneath the vehicle (usually whilst reversing) and am not sure if this has something to do with the shudder. My mechanic says he can't find any problems.
View 2 RepliesAnyway I have a friend with a Mazda Navaho. 1991, 5spd transmission
It jerks intermittently, and sometimes quite severely. Myself, and 4 other ASE mechanics, and 1 "old ford guru" are stumped. We know we have ruled out the clutch for sure....
We think It started when my friend put a clutch in it. He did not have the flywheel turned . When we looked at it, we were all convinced this was the issue....drive test and dumping the clutch in and out at cruising speeds could replicate the issue. However, he had just bought the truck, and it needed a clutch, however the jerking we think was happening before, but we didn't know as we couldn't drive it till we put the clutch in it.
So we re-did the clutch...had flywheel machined, and got a warranty replacement clutch just in case, and put it back together.
Same issues. so we checked, and tested.
1. Fuel pressure test- passed, no issues
2. Checked fuel regulator for leaks - none
3. Checked for and found no vacuum leaks-none
4. Swept, and actually replaced (3 times) the TPS -is working fine
5. Replaced the MAF - Thought we had it, as we disconnected the MAF and jerking seemed to go away instantly...however few days later jerking returned, and driving with MAF unplugged still jerking.
6. Replaced Ignition Module, checked coils, plugs etc...actually replaced plugs and wires as well
7. Disconnected Transfor case plug to make sure it wasn't the issue as well.
I really don't know what else to check. The motor runs fine, the trans shifts smoothly...the clutch is new and was done correctly. I run a small auto shop, and we have access to Mitchells, All-Data, and Identifix....all were no dice. It seems you try and research jerking and hesitation all the hits come up for Auto trans and Torque converter lockout issues. This truck is a 5 spd .....
I have owned many Aerostars back in the day (loved em, same 4.0) and I have never seen this
The jerking is random and intermittent...symptoms would be similar to a small child flicking a light switch on and off rapidly when it does it. power, no power, power, no power, and rapidly...it feels like someone herky jerking on the clutch but we have ruled that out....its definitely electrical.
Also, and naturally, even though it is Obd I we have checked and there are no pending nor stored codes....PCM thinks everything is hunky dory. No backfiring, no smoke, no misfires....runs like new except this perplexing issue.
I took it to the dealer and they blamed the trailer. I told them that I have pulled two different trailers and it did it with both. Then he said that the trailer was not heavy enough to weigh down the springs. So now I not suppose to tow an empty trailer? Also my father in law has pulled the trailer with his Z71 with no shake and the other belongs to a neighbor with a 98 F150 with no shake. The vibration only starts above 45mph. Any clue as to what could be causing this?
View 14 RepliesI have a 07 with the 5.4 engine and it has started to jerk or miss sometimes when I'm pulling my trailer. I'm thinking about changing the plugs, but the dealership is telling me they will break off in the head.
View 11 RepliesI own a 2007 prius, it has about 320,000 miles. It has recently been diagnosed with a #2 and #4 cylinder misfire. The car severely idles rough, but when getting in the gas it goes away. I have replaced the spark plugs, the old plugs were very white(lean), replaced fuel injectors, used fuel injector cleaner. I've sprayed carb cleaner around the intake to see if I might a leak--no leak. The motor uses about a quart of oil every 1,000 miles since about 100,000 miles. I'm just guessing, could it simply be low compression causing this? I pulled the new spark plugs after about 5,000 miles and they where white also.
View 9 RepliesMy 99 Ranger pulls severely to the right under Normal braking, pulling the 30 amp ABS fuse stops the pulling but the ABS light is on on the dash.
View 1 RepliesSo my vehicle is 6 years old and the front edge of the roof panel is severely rusting from corner to corner. Warranty originally tried to pass it off as stone chips (lol) before I got an independent surveyor to inspect. He said there's no doubt it's a manufacturing fault and is rotting from the inside out. I went back to Hyundai with this appraisal letter to which they replied 'your anti perforation warranty only covers from the windows down so the roof isn't covered.
View 7 RepliesI have here a 2001 3/4 ton Suburban. It arrived last fall with 280K miles and a 6.0L V8 that was on its last leg (low to no oil pressure). I dropped in a 5.3L that I had handy, and had been happily driving it throughout the brutal Minnesota winter.
A couple months ago I noticed an issue developing. After a cold start, the engine would be severely lacking in torque for the first minute or so of driving. You could reach any RPM you wished, but the truck could barely accelerate. Once a minute or so had passed in this fashion, the issue would suddenly disappear... you'd be thrown back in your seat a bit if still attempting to accelerate, and the truck would take off. For the remainder of the trip, things would be fine.
Recently I went to drive the truck after it had sat for some weeks. It started fine, but the issue was now more persistent. When trying to accelerate, the gutlessness would continue for a good 15-20 seconds until finally and suddenly disappearing. Let off the gas, wait a moment, try to accelerate again, and it was the same thing all over again. Eventually I also noticed very obvious stumbling/missing when trying to get moving from a dead stop. Idle remained smooth.
The plugs and wires are only a few months old. The fuel filter is new. I checked for vacuum leaks (none that I could find). Fuel pressure is consistently around 50psi, even while the issue is happening.
The MIL was not on. I checked with my scantool, and found that P0101C was set, with P0101 pending. Visually examined the MAF harness and sensor; all looked fine. Swapped in a used working MAF; no change. (I suspect these codes may be due to the fact that I'm running a 5.3 with a stock, unmodified 6.0 PCM.)
My scantool is a Genisys running System 2.0. I'm by no means an expert with it, but I did know enough to try watching the miss counts while the symptom occurred. All cylinders seemed to be missing equally as much as the others, more or less.
Normally I'd be suspecting the fuel pump and/or associated wiring was going bad, but the pressure seems fine. What I might be missing?
The other day just after a lightning storm, my '02 F450 diesel's radio started playing all by itself with no key in the truck. Now my batteries are being drained severely but can't figure out why or how.
View 14 Replies1998 Ford Windstar 3.0 van. After in town driving for for 1/2 hour or more, my passenger side front wheel begins to heat up severely (partially melted the hubcap). It also begins to "grab" as if the emergency brake is on. when it cools off, it seems to rolls normally. I am nearing not hearing any obvious bad bearing noises when it is cool.
It seems like an obvious bad wheel bearing issue, right? Before I take it in to a shop to replace the bearing and the hub, I want to explore if it could be a faulty caliper that might seize when it heats up.(something I can fix easily myself)
What can I look for to diagnose? When it is cool with the wheel removed I see no obvious issues with the brake pads/caliper, but that is not to say it doesn't act differently when super hot.