Driving at cruising speed in 3 or D, encounter a hill and the truck shudders and bucks in same gear... then will finally downshift and everything is fine. The high miles 232k may be the issue of course. But does this thing have a vacuum modulator or something on the transmission that I can replace besides the fluid and filter that will fix this reluctant down shifting problem?
View 4 RepliesI recently bought my new car through a family friend.2000 Hyundai accent auto owned by a 90yr old grandpa since new with only 45k on the clock. im used to driving a manual so I don't know if its just me not used to it but when I slow for a corner to say 15-20km/hr and accelerate out the transmission remains in 3rd gear unless I give it a really good prod then it changes to 2nd or 1st. the acceleration when It does this and stays in 3rd is ok but I just wonder if its normal or is it just burning out the torque converter. also im only getting about 380-400kms out of a tank when driving the same route my old 96 pulsar used to get 550kms from the same fuel. is this normal I would have thought this new car to be using if anything a little less.
View 1 RepliesTransmission problem, will not shift lever. If car moves while on P, then the interlock will not disengage. I car doesnt roll at all it will allow me to shift gears but if the cars rolls just one inch then i cant shift gears. Already replace brake sensor.
View 6 RepliesI recently acquired a 2003 Dodge Neon and have also aquired a problem with the automatic transmission.The check engine light was on so I read the codes and they are noted below
P0700 Transmission Control System Malfunction
P0755 Shift Solenoid B Malfunction
Based upon some very basic research, I checked into replacing the Transmission Control solenoid.It sounded like this is a pretty common problem for this transmission, so hopefully this would fix the problem.
I was able to get the old one pulled off without to much trouble, but prir to installing the new one I was wondering if there would be a way to test the old one to verify that it was actually bad. I would prefer to not install the new $150 part only to find out that this was not the problem. (and then I could not return it once it had been installed) Maybe some low air pressure on the ports and verify that the ports / flow changes if 12 VDC is applied to the right pins?
A little more information in regards to the "failure" mode. The transmission appears to act the same no matter if it is placed in 1,3 or D. (reverse works fine) I would have expected that it would limit out with the motor taching up pretty high at about 20 MPH in 1(low). It goes down the road fine up to about 55 mph and then the engine starts taching up.
I also tried to reset the error codes with my "craftsman" code reader and it would not do it. I seem to recall seeing something about needing to reset codes before the new solenoid would work. Will pulling the battery for an hour clear the code? Do I need to clear the code?
I have a 98 camry with code p0755 - shift solenoid valve#2 malfunction.-What are some of the most common causes. How to test it ,the issues that cause this and what to do also after replacing it if bad? Also are these to be replaced in pairs with both 1st -2nd shift and 2nd to 3rd shift .
If I have high miles on it will adding the 2 -3 quarts of new fluid give me issues as to mixing with the old and part breaking up in transmission(I've heard a lot happens when u replace very old fluid with new or flush it fully)..will be replacing filter also but not the rest of fluid still in transmission at this time. Looking for a link a pic. of the exact location on transmission inside pan .of it(looks similar to other shift solenoid near it )...
My old 97 f-150's 4R70W started slipping.....so I just installed a rebuilt 98 f-150 unit that had about 10,000 miles on it and also has a transgo shift kit. Got it finished today....and.....
I have an check engine light code p0750 "shift solenoid A malfunction"........when leaving from a stop in Drive, the truck starts going in 2nd gear and just skips 1st gear all together. If I manually shift it, then 1st works fine and shifts through all the gears fine.
But in Drive.. it skips 1st. What to do? or what could be the problem? Where is this solenoid? Can I swap the one out of my old tranny into this one without pulling the whole tranny apart? (I don't mind dropping the pan though...) Or could i have a bad connection somewhere maybe?
Also....When the tranny shifts from 2nd to 3rd the rpms jump about 500 rpm before they drop...kind of seems excessive. Could this be caused by the shift solenoid A malfunction?
I bought it 4 years ago with 205K, swapped trans fluid.. 10k miles later (I don't drive it a lot ). I am throwing the code P0750 Shift A malfunction.. i figured id swap the solenoid pack since I am pretty handy and it was affordable.. but it didn't seem to do the trick.. it drove around the block good for 5 minutes before it started shifting weird and throwing a code again.. almost seems to be slipping... I still have to check fluid level again and scan the code again but any suggestions? I have an apt to go to the tranny shop this week and would like to avoid the big bucks if possible.
View 14 RepliesSo, I recently picked up mt 2000 vr6 has 200k on it runs great well taken care of. I was just driving not getting crazy or any sort of thing. it has ground in 2nd a little from when I got it. I put it in neutral then went to put it in 2nd and it went but nothing there. it will go into 2nd but won't stay and when I hold it in 2nd gear it just revs no noise or anything just sits and rolls. tried doing the reading but all I fold was 1st and 2nd I just have no 2nd.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2000 Excursion w/ V10 and I have an issue with the transmission form time to time. some times it does not want to shift out of first. if I pull over and turn it off for a few minutes it will be fine for a while and it doesn't do this all the time. A few nights ago it did this so I pulled over and turned it off and it still did it but then it started shifting on its own just fine till we got on the high way which is started shifting in and out of over drive going around 60-65 MPH. didn't want to go too fast not knowing what it could or would do. it did this for a few miles then it started working fine. next day it did the same thing not wanting to shift out of first then started working fine. drove it around last night and it all worked perfectly. The CEL is on but I get a no communication text from the scanner so that is another thing I need to look in to. I'm guessing it is an electrical issue being when it works it shifts fine and it does not slip at all.
View 14 RepliesFor a few years now, in cold weather, when starting my 2000 Honda Odyssey the TCS light will stay on and the transmission will not shift out of low gears. I can drive in reverse just fine, but when I try shifting to drive, the "D" drive indicator does not light up and it will only drive in what seems to be first gear. However, when sufficiently warmed up, I can restart the engine, the TCS light goes out, and everything's normal. The warm up time varies from 5 to 10 mins or more, and is unpredictably annoying. I went to a dealer last year and they didn't seem to have a clue. Is it just a matter of a bad sensor?
View 6 RepliesI have an 02 GS with automatic transmission. The speedometer quit working and now the transmission does not shift out of 1st while driving. CEL is on but I'm waiting for a friend to come over and get the codes. It shifts into drive and reverse fine but I'm wondering if there is a speed sensor in the speedometer that signals the tranny when to shift?
View 4 RepliesSold my mazda and got a nice 2000 2wd Ranger XLT with a 3.0L. Today the wife I and took it to town, 10 miles on the highway there, a couple in town and 10 back, didn't notice anything unusual. However I haven't this truck long so I'm not sure what is usual.
Parked it for a few hours and when went out to change the front turn signals to LED I noticed the ABS light was on when I drove it into the garage...
I checked fluid, connections and fuses, no change.I go ahead and swapped the bulbs while letting things simmer, I've had so many of these Fords sometimes the easy fix comes to me.
I backed it out and took it down the road, right away I noticed my speedometer wasn't working, so I let off the gas, when I re-applied the pedal I got nothing, like it was in neutral.
I downshifted to second and got her down and turned around as the O/D started flashing... (so glad because I would have hated walking back), then pulled her back in the garage to check transmission fluid and recheck fuses, including the ones I forgot earlier under the hood. I added a 1/4 qt of fluid then tried a road test again, this time there was a real long pause before it upshifted hard and the CEL came on.
I pulled the codes with my scangauge and got:
P0500
P2120
P0028
And decided I better look some things up and consult the gurus here before I do anymore damage tonight. I'm guessing that I'm looking at a tranny replacement possibly, but with the ABS light and speedometer failure I'm not 100% sure what is going on here...
2000 Ranger 4R44e transmission.Hard shift from 2-3 gear and when i run about 35-40 mph and brake then acelerate it downshifts hard . Whats wrong with it?
View 14 RepliesI have a 2000 Buick Century that only has 70000 miles on it. I have an issue that when I drive the car for a while, the transmission will shift hard after stopping at a light or stop sign. It only does it through the first three gears. If I shut the car off and let it sit for a few minutes and start it back up, it shifts fine through all of the gears. I have not had the change to change the fluid and filter yet. The fluid looks clean and is always full. I have read that there has been a common problem with a pressure control solenoid in the transmission needing replaced to correct the hard shifting. I am not getting any kind of error codes from the PCM, so I am not sure.
View 4 RepliesI like coasting on long down-sloping grades as much as possible to save gas. (With CRUISE off, STABILITY off, ECON on.) I can even exceed the criticized EPA Fuel Economy figures. And I rarely have to brake hard at stops. My 2001 GM Venture would coast forever. My 2013 Dodge Caravan is very reluctant to coast or "freewheel". When I ease up on gas pedal, it downshifts, revving up the engine to apply costly engine-braking (when I don't want to slow down or stop at all)! I have asked several Chrysler mechanics and gotten different answers from each one, none of which worked.
View 5 RepliesI've got a 2007 Cadillac CTS with the 3.6L engine. The car has begun idling rough when stopped at lights, parked, etc. A few days later, it also began starting reluctantly. The rough idle varies in intensity, but is almost always present. The CEL is not illuminated and the car seems to run fine when not idling.
A few months ago, the car began running like a lawn mower and the check engine light came on. It turned out to be a misfiring cylinder. I had all the plugs replaced along with the ignition coil for that cylinder.
The car ran great for a few months after the repair, but now this rough idle problem has appeared.
I drive a 2011 Limited. Three out of the past four mornings the car has been reluctant to start. It is cold out, but not super cold. This morning it was 1C (34F).
When I turn the key, it cranks but does not fire. I Held the key for what felt like forever, but in reality it was probably only 6 seconds. I let go of the key, waited a few moments and then tried again. After the third try, it finally fired and ran normally. It didn't stutter or otherwise seem to have any problems.
At this point I went inside and found my basic scan tool. No codes were stored and the voltage was between 13.5v and 14.6v. After I drove to work, I turned it off. The voltage dropped to 12.1v. When I cranked it again at work, I saw the voltage drop to 9.5v for a second before it fired up and jumped to 13.5v, then 14.6v.
The car has the original battery. Could it be as simple as a battery? Oh, I Just remembered, when the car did start, the radio was off. Upon turning it on, it was reset to defaults. Other than this starting issue that has only recently started, pun intended, and the radio I am having no other issues with the car.
This is on my 7.3PSD. I've observed that the 1-2 gear shift drops about 1,000 RPMs and takes a good half second or longer to do so when given a lot of accelerator pedal input. And then the 2-3 shift is a very quick and harsh shift.
If I am accelerating gently the 2-3 shift is as unnoticeable as the 1-2 shift is quick. Is the slow 1-2 shift causing the trans to protect itself and affecting the 2-3 shift? And if so, what do I do to resolve all of this? I changed the trans fluid a week ago and there is no change.
We purchased a used 2012 a couple of months ago and have had no issues with it. A few weeks ago it was in an accident and mostly sat at the body shop for the next two weeks. Got it back a week ago and seemed to work fine for commuting for the next week. Then let it sit for two days and then the next day drove it for a few short trips over a couple of hours. Everything seemed fine. Next morning it won't start. "P lock malfunction when parking, park in flat place and apply parking brake securely. Shift to P position and push power switch to turn off". Cannot shift into D; can shift into N; pushing P button doesn't illuminate the LED on the button or move it out of N.
Searching this error indicates often caused by failing 12V battery, and I can see that might be the problem given the age and the abuse the battery has taken the last few weeks. The battery reads 11.84V when car is off and 11.45V when "on" showing the error. I can replace the 12V battery. Is there some other simple diagnostic I can do?
Alternate explanations are, something got buggered in the accident that didn't surface until now or the groundhog we shooed out from under the car right before it wouldn't start was chewing on something.
Today, driving the car around town it was suddenly really hard to shift in/out of first when the car was stopped. Driving, no problem at all. Then within the ~15-minute drive, it got progressively worse.
Got the car home, checked and noticed that my HPA short shifter was wearing out (the splines), so I threw on the stock piece and figured everything would be ok... not the case. Here's what's going on:
- When the car is off, I can shift through all gears easily (and into the proper gears as far as I can see.. which tells me that shifter alignment should also be fine)
- When the car is off, and (for example) I have the car in 1st - I can let off the ebrake and the car doesn't roll (it's in gear), when I press the clutch, it will roll
- When the car is RUNNING, I can't shift in/out of any gears at all. This morning it was just really tough, and it was actually easier if I didn't have the clutch pedal all the way to the floor.. but now I can't at all if the car is running
- No signs of anything leaking under the car
- The car is APR Stg 3 and I have about 50k miles on a stage 2 clutch. Prior to this, I didn't notice any slipping, weird noises when shifting, etc.
Sound like either master/slave clutch cylinder? Or more like a clutch issue itself?
My 03 Jetta is having transmission trouble. It will shift from 1st to 2nd but wont shift to 3rd. It is an automatic 2.0.
View 10 Replies