Gmc :: 1999 Yukon Started To Snap To Left Or Right When Move The Wheel Just Slightly
Oct 25, 2012
I've got a 1999 Yukon with a new (rebuilt) engine ad a new (rebuilt) tranny, both only about 3-4 years old. Within the last 2 years it has started to 'snap' to the left or right when I move the wheel just slightly. My husband tightened the steering and that worked a little but it still does it. It's pretty scary when your on the highway and go to adjust your lane placement and the wheel jerks out of your hand in the direction you're turning! Also, the truck has also developed a nasty habit it simply shutting down while I'm driving. The last time it did it I was on the freeway doing 65! It always starts right back up but I'm worried that one of these days it won't and I'll find myself in a real pickle! Nobody I've talked to (including mechanics!!!!) seem to know what these problems are.
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I've ignored it long enough and dont remember if it was like this when I bought it from the second owner...guess I had too much fun during the test drive. Any ways would it be an alignment issue up front or what?
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I have a new 2 week old Prius 4. So far I love it. I've put about 600 miles on it. This past weekend I spent a decent amount of time on the freeway and noticed an issue with my steering. I'm pretty sure it is an alignment issue.
The car tracks straight. When I let go of the wheel the car goes dead straight but...the steering wheel is a bit off center turn slightly to the left. If I hold the wheel and turn the steering wheel right to exactly straight the car will go right. It's like they they aligned the car with the steering wheel slightly off center.
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I am noticing a snap noise that occurs only when I move forward after backing up and braking. I'm thinking it could be either a rear drum not releasing, bad U-joint, or something in the rear end. How do I isolate the cause?
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My 2003 Camry makes a a grinding noise when the wheel is turned even slightly left. The noise is present at any speed, and is the same volume no matter what. I'm fairly certain its coming from the driver side front wheel. I changed that CV axle in January so hopefully that's not the issue.
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Only had this car for about a month and 1200 trouble free miles. Really in great shape but with 276K miles on it. Really runs great and feels like a new car inside and out.
Yesterday, a cool morning, 38 deg.. Started at the Ready, backing out of my car port and cut the wheel partially to turn 90 deg. to enter the street. Came to full stop and shift lever is still in Rev, before I could shift to Drive. The steering wheel shutters like I was going over a rough. Jerking slightly from left to right about 2-3 degrees. Stopped within about a second and I still had normal steering response. I continued onto the street and made a ran a 300 mile round trip on freeway and surface streets without any further problems.
I know the power steering is electric assist over mechanical linkage and can only imagine that there was a power glitch in the power convertor and I was feeling pulses from the feed back in the power steering drive. No hydraulics to blame, I don't think.
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I have a 1992 Olds Cutlass Ciera S. Just fixed it running with a tuneup, but now I noticed that when I turn the steering wheel slightly left at all, I get a sort of small roar and it may just be me but the car seems tense. It feels and sounds like a bad power steering pump, but it turns right fine, no noise or anything. I do not think it's a wheel bearing. Could this car have rack and pinion steering and that is going bad?
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This morning I went to reverse my girlfriends 91 sx celica out of the driveway only to find that the front left wheel locks up while trying to move backward. At first I thought it was the gear box so I put it in neutral but it still would not budge. The last 3 weeks it has been making bad clicking and banging noises I thought was just a poorly greased control arm. I drove the car down the street and back and it moves freely with a minor constant clicking noise but only while going forward. I'm wondering whether it is in fact the transmission or cv or what?
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My brakes were terrible and finally got roders and pads for front yesterday ... well the pad on passenger side was like not there anymore almost metal on metal and driver side was not close to being that bad but like driving down road there was a slight hi pitch tick that only occured when steering wheel was slightly tilted left (counter clockwise).
We redid front pads and roders (did bad not to long ago) and now there a terrible rubbing sound and it only occurs when again wheel tilted left or making a left hand turn cant figure it out thought it was the wire clip to hold caliper in place but that's clearing rim .... it sounds like metal on metal and driving me nut was driving last night and after awhile it did go away but i have feeling it going to happen again when i drive it today ...
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My 04 Yukon XL blows ice cold from both units while driving. However, at a stop light or in park the temperature of the air warms slightly. It will sometimes also blow hot. I checked the pressure using one of the units available at auto parts stores, and it was a low. I added refrigerant and the issue got a little better. I am thinking the fan clutch may be going bad? The truck doesn't overheat at all and in fact stays at mid-gauge throughout operation. Am I correct in pin-pointing the fan clutch?
Also, I know on the and up the TPS tells the pressure for each tire. Is there a way to get this same feature on my? Would it be possible through a software upgrade or replacing the entire DIC?
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My steering wheel started pulling to the left when I brake, right after I had my struts replaced. The struts could be related to this problem?
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My Excursion has proved to be a reliable winter vehicle, as was the intention. A few weeks back, at 116,000 miles, the right front wheel bearing started to squeal around left turns. Not very loud, so I didn't think it was all that bad, just an indication it was going. I jacked up the front of the truck anyway for good measure, and found a tremendous amount of slop in the bearing. Yeah, the bearing had disintegrated. Time for a replacement.
I bought a new replacement hub off of eBay, and proceeded to start tearing into the thing. Should be an easy repair... Right.
The repair itself is actually straightforward, but I had a few little snags get in my way. The one I'm facing now is that the new hub did not come with replacement studs, and the old hub's studs will not come out. Yes, I tried using a torch (and failed). I got one removed, only to find it's a fine thread and possibly Metric. Either way, it's not something that they have at Lowes.
Where to get more of these, or what the size is so I can order some from McMaster?
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My left side mirror, motor will move left and right but it will not move up and down. Is there a DIY way to fix this? Is it a motor problem? Can I buy the part and fix it?
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I have a 2005 Yukon XL. In Oct 2010, my front A/C started blowing hot air even though it was set to cold. Nothing has happened since then, except that about a month ago, the A/C in the front stopped working but the A/C in the back still works great. The one in the front works when it wants to (once or twice in a week) and when it does, there is cold air coming out of it. We live in FL so it is getting pretty hot to not have A/C and we are going on vacation soon. What can be causing my A/C to work like this?
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I have a 2002 GMC Yukon with 195,000 miles. The oil pan is now leaking and it needs a new gasket. It has 40psi oil pressure at idle. The lifters knock when first started. Should I replace the oil pump when the pan is pulled to replace the gasket? What else should I change while the pan is off with this high mileage vehicle?
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My 01 Denali is making a slight knock when I turn right or left, and I can feel it just a bit in the steering. To my knowledge nothing has even been replaced. It has 134,000 miles
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My 2001 Hyundai accent hatchback with around 135000 miles is having problems with the gas pedal. I start my car and can't really push down the gas pedal smoothly. It is initially hard where I have to slightly kick the pedal to move it. Otherwise if I rest my foot on the pedal and try to press it down I end up press it down too much where my car goes flying. Every time I come to a stop I have to do that to get the pedal to move. Its not stiff once I get the pedal to push down some but once I take my foot off the pedal I have to slightly kick it back down.
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It used to be, if I remember correctly, that while turning the key on a cold start the oil pressure gauge needle would show pressure prior to the engine starting, now it takes longer to start and the needle doesn't move until after the motor has started. I had the O-ring kit replaced due to oil leakage, and I wonder if there is an issue with the system. N to watch as they deedo their cold start today...
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No matter what gear I put the car in the car does not move. I reversed the car to move it and my the gear selector was hit into drive while making a reverse movement. I then proceed to drive forward and it took a higher rpm to move the car. While the car is in the air the wheels sometimes move slightly at high Rpms.
The car threw a P0500, P0746 and P2714 code so I replaced the valve body. Still nothing.
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I have a 99 jeep grand cherokee. Started car up and there is a shrieking loud noise. the car worked fine when i drove it yesterday. the steering wheel will not move. i looked under the hood and the steering wheel fluid is completely drained. do i just need fluid? what is the shrieking noise?? It's sunday so i'm unable to contact dealership or get the fluid that i was told i can only buy from dealership.
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1999 Isuzu Rodeo V6 3.2L MT 263,500 miles 2WD
I often, but not always, hear a loud "snap" when turning left, usually when executing a 90 degree turn.
It's been happening over the past few weeks. Seems to be coming from mid-vehicle but hard to be sure from the driver's seat.
No other symptoms. No vibration, no steering wheel shake, no noise while driving. I don't feel anything when I hear it.
I originally thought it may be a U-joint, but now that I found it happens only when turning left, that seems less likely?
It's a loud snap, could it be an engine or transmission mount?
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