Gmc - 1500 :: 2001 - Odometer Stuck At 100 MPH After Jump Started
Feb 11, 2011
So my truck battery has been giving me some issues due to the bad weather. So i jumped my truck today, and my odometer is stuck at 100 mph. What to do or dyi info. My heat is also not working, water pump is not leaking, and heater core is warmed up but I am not hearing the transfer from the cold to heat. could it be the blend door actuator.
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I recently left my lights on on my 2001 Saturn S series. (I also recently had a car stereo installed, don't know if it's relevant). I jumpstarted the car and now I get an odd chiming at startup. When I arm the alarm the arming honk is as loud as the alarm itself. It used to be a more modest honk. Any thoughts on what might have happened during the jumpstart or how I can correct these issues?
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I have an old base model 2001 Silverado, so manual everything. Here's my problem-- the air direction control knob (feet, defrost, face, etc.) is stuck on defrost. Literally stuck. Obviously, the knob attaches to and is supposed to turn a metal rod that then changes the direction of the air flow, but the rod will not turn at all...I even detached the knob and tried to turn it with a pliers! The climate control and fan speed knobs both work. What might be causing this?
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My name is Jason and I have a 2001 Dodge Ram 1500 with an automatic transmission. It has trouble shifting. I have to drop it down from D into 2 and then back into D to get it to shift out of second gear most of the time. If I have to stop ten times in a trip I have to manually shift it about seven or eight of those times. On top of that, sometimes while I'm driving it will slip into Neutral but it'll still be in the D position. This just started and has only happened a few times so far. My transmission fluid levels are fine. I'm trying to see if there is any other solution besides rebuilding or replacing my transmission.
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I just found out from a dealer that my odometer (2004) does not go above 300,000 miles. I guess if I had been on Priuschat more regularly I would have discovered this long ago! Any answer from Toyota as to why this is so, or what (if anything) they are going to do about it? I'd think it would be fairly bad publicity for them to have it publicized that they don't expect the Prius to last more than 300,000 miles...
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After years of enjoying my Prius, driving it all around California and getting about 70k miles on it, it finally went haywire today when the car didn't start. Let me explain.
When I tried turning on the car, it didn't do anything and felt resistance from the brakes. I noticed that the interior lights were dimmer than usual, so I tried pressing the Power over and over again. Unfortunately, it didn't start.
Panicked, I frantically tried to get my manual out of my trunk, only to have the lights actually fully turn on. Puzzled, I turned on the car and, sure enough, it started. But I'm an idiot and turned it off and got stuck with the same problem again.
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I have a '97 Chrysler Cirrus that won't start on it's own without being jump started. Once jump started it runs fine, but then the next time you go to start it the battery is drained again. My highly uneducated guess is that I need to replace the alternator. Am I on the right track? I replaced the battery and the problem persisted.
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Why my stereo stopped working? I had to jump start my car, 2005 Passat TDI (B5) and now the stereo will not turn on. I checked the fuse on the drivers side, they were all good, say which fuse is for the stereo..
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We have had 5 instances over the past 2 months where we have had to have someone jump start the van for us. Two of the times the van was not running and the seat warmers were in use for 15 minutes with the key in ACC mode, when it came time to start the van it would not start, nothing would come on, battery completely dead. Another instance we were sitting waiting for pizzas to be done so we had a movie playing on the VES system, again with the key on ACC mode, the battery seemed completely dead again. The most recent instances the lights in the van came on but when trying to start it there was a clicking sound from under the hood, but the automatic headlights and interior lights all came on (battery not dead), so I hooked up the portable battery charger/jump starter and jumped it. It started right up, but the radio reset to the defauly of 12:00......
I had it to Auto Zone.and they tested the electrical system and found noting out of the ordinary... Could it be a bad started? Bad Cells in the battery?
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2006 prius. Yesterday gave a jump to a friend with a motorcycle. After I got back in the car, no electricity whatsoever. Jumped my prius using another car, started fine and drove home, no warning lights. Same thing though after turning the car off, no electricity at all, can't start it.
Eventually figured out that I had blown the 120A fuse, so replaced it and the car starts fine now. But... I get the triangle with the exclamation point, and the car with the exclamation point on the mfd. What might be causing this? Battery reads 12.5v with car off. I find it a little strange that I didn't get any warning lights when I jump started it, but do now that it starts from its own 12v battery.
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I have a 2003 excursion v10, and am now having some problems. My son drove the truck the other day, and the trucks battery died because he left the lights on, so he jumped it. The next day when i went to drive the truck, every light on the cluster was on, the radio would not work only appearing when the menu or load cd button was pressed, the windows do not function, nor do any interior lights....
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Just hasn't been my luck lately guys. Last night was around 4 F out, taking a left at an intersection and lost power. Though it might be the TC kicking in as it was a bit icy out, but no indication of that on the dash. Then the "service engine" wrench showed up for a second on the display.
This was followed by the airbag light turning on, and the truck going into some kind of limp mode. The speedo indicated "0 MPH" though I was running about 2k RPMs in 5th.
My display showed this:
I couldn't force a downshift with the throttle, or get one from manual mode. I slowed down and pulled over at a safe place, shut the truck off and restarted. Hasn't happened since then.
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Like the title says, I have an '02 F-250 that should have turned over 1,000,000 miles but it froze 1 mile shy of that. It makes it kind of hard to keep track of maintenance when this doesn't work. Trip odometer is useless also.
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I have a 97' F-150 4.6 L and I've been having some fuel gauge issues.... I filled up my tank up and I drove it 130 miles and it still said full tank... even when I had 1/2 I would start it and every time I started it it would jump up all the way to full and slowly drop down. Then randomly last night it started working... I noticed as I hit rough patches in the road and bumps it would usually fluctuate, but it would also fluctuate up... It read I have 3/4 tank last night and I go to start it today and its back up to full! I don't understand... Wouldn't a bad sending unit just stop all together?
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2001 Prius
polarity got reversed on dead battery. Main fuses OK so did I toast all the CPUs?? or not...
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What would cause my 1993 silverado 5.0 133K miles, to knock for a few seconds when started. Sounds like the back of the engine area.
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2004 F250 Crewcab 4x4 5.4 automatic.
My speedometer quit working - stays on 0, my odometer stays on 271006.5 miles. Everything lights up, when I do a gauge sweep, the speedometer goes from 0 to full blast then back to zero. On the gauge sweep, my odometer states off all the code stuff like I think it's suppose to.
Anyway, I was lucky enough to get a speeding ticket - driving with the flow of traffic, with the police officer behind me for a mile or more. Pulls me over, explain my speedo just went out, he said he can't let me off but the judge might. So I'm trying to fix prior to a court date.
Here is what I have tried so far.
1. Replaced the VSS in the axle - no change to problem.
2. Replaced the sensors on top of the tranny (2 of them) - no change in problem.
3. Sent the cluster off to a repair shop - they said it worked when it left there shop - no change in problem.
4. Replaced the battery - thought it might have a dead cell. - no change in problem.
5. Unhooked the battery, turned on the headlights, waited 30 minutes, put it back together. (did this probably 5 times) - no change in the problem.
6. Replaced the diff fluid. - no change in problem.
7. Replaced the front left abs sensor on the hub - the existing wire looked like it had rubbed on metal - possible short? - no change in problem.
So far I've just been what seems to be time and money at it with no luck.
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Last week my truck started to stall a little bit. As I drove it a little longer, it stalled all the way out. It started back up fine but when I gave it some gas, it cut off. This happened several times. I popped the hood and noticed the throttle body was a little loose. Thinking air may have gotten into the system,I tightened it back up. I started it up,put it in gear and it seemed to drive fine and it started stalling again.
While I was on the interstate, it would cut off, cut back on,cut off and then cut back on. Finally it completely stalled out. I had to have it towed to my house. I hooked my code scanner up to it and it through code 44 (O2 sensor) and code 54 (Fuel pump relay or something like that). What could be causing my truck to run this way.
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I've read through my manual, but can't find anything on how to actually lock the odometer at zero when I don't need it. Trip A is set to my oil change mileage and I just want Trip B to be off or at zero. 2012 F150 XL SBRC, 5.0 V8 4x4, 3.55 gears....
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I have a 1997 f150 4.6L 4x4 Standard Transmission and today I hopped in it to go to work, and the Speedo, Trip Odometer, and Odometer all are not working.
This is the first time it has happened to me, what could cause this or have a problem similar to this and know how to fix it?
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This is just a basic Sentra 2.0L with a CVT, about 80k miles.
I park on a very very slight downhill grade.. very slight.. almost flat.. The car starts just fine, put it in reverse, push the pedal to the floor, engine revs up to about 1500 rpms (I'm assuming it has a limiter on it because it won't go past 1500) and the car sits still. Release the accelerator, floor it again, car moves about 6", repeat a few times and eventually I can back out. That ain't normal.
It does a similar thing when in Drive, except it will actually start moving but very slowly. So slow that I'm afraid I'm going to get T-boned if I try to make a left turn. Once I get up to about 10mph it starts to feel somewhat normal.
Once it starts moving it doesn't seem to have any trouble maintaining highway speeds. The engine might be running a little faster than normal, but to be honest I'm not sure if it is or not. Pulls up some pretty significant hills at 60mph at around 3k RPM.. which seems reasonable.
What it could be? Transmission is still under warranty so I'm hoping it's that.. I don't really have the $ to throw at this thing right now. By the way - it's not throwing any codes or anything.
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