Geo - Prizm :: 1995 - Starter Just Clicking After Head Gasket Replacement
Mar 30, 2012
I recently replaced the head gasket on a 95 Geo Prizm. Now when I tried to start it, all I get is the starter clicking. I tried tapping the starter solenoid, to no effect. The only electrical that I messed with during the head gasket replacement was to disconnect the battery.
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Vehicle 2007 Ford Explorer Sport Trac with 4.6L
Ok, just did a head gasket replacement. Everything is now hooked back up. Now when we try to restart the car, we get lights, but nothing from the starter. Also the OBDII code puller can't communicate with the car. Also the security light flashes very fast when you try to start.
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Am wrestling with the ever-present value/worth question. My '95 Saab 9000 Aero developed a leaky head gasket at 155,000 miles. I had it replaced (after driving it several hundred miles over a week or so). The engine then became and continues to be hard to start. It idles roughly, and even stalls out when decelerating for intersections. The shop says that two cylinders have low compression. (no details on why) They suggested adding injector cleaner to the fuel, which did not solve the problem, or installing a new (used) motor.
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I just bought a 95' 3.0 V6 4 runner that had overheating issues that caused head gasket to fail. I fixed all the reasons it was blowing the gasket with a new radiator & thermo. Now, temp no longer an issue but the automatic trans is slipping but has been getting alittle better as I drive it more. I noticed the trans fluid was pretty burnned when I replaced radiator..so will replacing the trans fluid & filter fix this issue ? Or could there be another issue ? My check engine light is also on, I will check the codes soon. I am getting horrible gas mileage, but probly from the slipping trans I guess.
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My 95 Ranger has been a good truck in the 6 years I've owned it. I had to pull the heads to replace a leaking head gasket and wound up having the heads rebuilt due to weak valve springs and worn valves. I replaced the gaskets, installed the heads, get it all back together.....won't start. Fuel pressure is good. Found that there is no spark. While putting the crankshaft position sensor connector back on I noticed it didn't look too good. I replaced the connector and that's all I did and no spark. Long story short, after a lot of research, the coil pack, cps and coolant temp sensor were replaced and still no spark.
Everything has the proper voltage to it. After a little more research I found a post with the same basic issue. His issue wound up being the ecm. So I removed the ecm....it's a used one from a salvage yard. I've owned the truck 6 years so I have no idea when the ecm was replaced. It showed up today and will get installed when I get home from work. I also ran across posts about the camshaft sunchronizer and they should be replaced at about 80K miles. Since the truck has 289K I'll replace it. Still no spark. I'm hoping it's the ecm.
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I have a 2002 pontiac montana that needs the head gasket replace. Mileage is 152,000 miles with a v6 engine. I would like to get at least another 75,000 miles once the repair is done. Is it worth doing as alternative is to scrap the van and buy a new vehicle...
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I have a 2007 Subaru Forester X Sport Model. I just passed 86,000 miles - much of that open road driving. My head gaskets need to be replaced. This seems somewhat early. I recently switched from using regular motor oil to a synthetic blend that the dealership suggested. Is there any history suggesting that switching lubricants might cause the head gaskets to deteriorate?
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I have a 1997 Honda Civic that I was given by an elderly neighbor's daughter after the elderly lady went to the grocery and ended up 100 miles away when she could not figure out how to get home. The car was smogged at the beginning of the year but when I got it ran very rough and the temp went nearly to overheating on the drive home when I was stuck in stop and go traffic.I found the radiator fluid level low and an oily residue inside the radiator water bottle. I took it to a mechanic to check it out and was told it had a blown head gasket and maybe worse.
I am thinking of buying a rebuilt cylinder head and replacing it myself but I am not sure how to diagnose if any other damage could have been caused to the engine. It's hard to know but I am guessing that the engine was damaged during the 100 mile road trip due to low coolant level. It turns out short term memory loss was the diagnosis for my elderly neighbor. I filled the coolant level and ran the engine for a bit and the temp stayed normal but the rough running remains. The oil dip stick shows no signs of coolant in the oil and the coolant looks bright green when I looked in the radiator after topping it up with some water.
Any way to detect if I could be facing bigger issues like failed bearings? I am OK to do the head replacement but an engine replacement starts to get into the realm of what it would cost to get another car of the same age.
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So, I blew my head gasket and have been looking for what to replace it with. From what I've seen, just an OEM gasket would be best.? I'm also putting ARP studs in it, unless there's another brand I should put in it.
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I need walked through the take down to replace the head gasket on an 05 mountaineer with a 4.0. I've never worked on one of these so I don't even know. I havent even seen the engine to know where to start.
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A 2007 Toyota Camry 2.4 was brought into the shop I work at smoking badly and running terrible. The car had been run hot because the radiator was busted and it blew the head gasket. So I pulled the head and sent if off to the machine shop to have it checked. They said it was badly warped across three cylinder and they resurfaced it.
Now I have everything re assembled, but it simply will not start. All the timing marks on the timing chain line up where they should be. All four coils are firing. Injectors wires pulse noid lights. A few times it has hit and sputtered like it was trying to start but never successfully does.
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How much should it cost to have it replaced? car seems to be running just fine but leaking oil.
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I'll start by saying that I have a 2004 GTI 1.8t. Picked the car up from a local junkyard around 2 months ago for a grand. They were unsure why it was running rough, so I took a chance and picked it up. Got it back to the house and the timing chain tensioner was shot. Ordered a new one up. Went to a friends house and he noticed it was producing some white smoke from the tail pipe and suggest I take a look into my head gasket. Replaced the head gasket about 2 weeks ago. Got everything buttoned back up and it smoked even worse.
Being my first head gasket change I accepted the fact that I may not have been thorough enough in my replacement and stripped her back down once again. Made sure I was extremely focused and replaced the head gasket again. I just got her back together and she is still smoking.
I know for a fact that coolant is getting into my pistons and causing my spark plugs to foul out. Too much moisture in the cylinder.
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On my car which never overheated but one day the overflow for the radiator started gurgling and I turned off the car fast and brought to our mechanic and he advised that it was head gasket after changing hoses and water pump. when I first realized the gurgling and shut off the car and never ran it again did i save the engine and replacing the head gasket is a good thing. also did I save the head from warping by my actions?
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Ive had both the piston rings and head gasket replaced on my 96 civic. This isn't for high end upgrades or anything just because i need to pass smog and both needed replaced. I am being told that once i get my car i should drive slow for 100 miles before i take it to smog. Ive read many different opinions on seating the rings but all are for people upgrading their car. I am sure I just got normal replacements.
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2007 Sports Trac .. Does the motor need to be removed to replace head gaskets? 4.0 sohc
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I'm going to be doing head gaskets on my 2006 F350 6.0. I know I need the head bolt tool and head lifting fixture. I have the tool to release the injector wiring plug from the head. Are there any other specialty tools I need? I saw in Hot Rod magazine a few months ago there was a new head gasket for the 6.0. Unfortunately I don't have the magazine anymore. I can't remember the brand of gasket. I know everyone in the past has said use OEM Ford head gaskets. Lastly, can I do the head gasket job and put studs in without pulling the cab or HVAC box?
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I have a quick question, I just replaced the head gaskets on my 4.6 with 301,000 miles on it and now my battery only charges when you punch it and when you lift off the gas pedal, in town it does fine, but on drives 25 miles on the highway the battery guage goes to the line on the bottom. What could be causing that?
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I am replacing the head gaskets on a 2006 Ford F250 6.0 .... I have heard that I should replace the head bolts with studs. Do I torque the studs just like the bolts?
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My car was running perfectly, then one day I parked into my home and that was the last time it started. A mechanic came by and showed me that the distributor was not creating a spark and that I needed a new distributor. I bought one at a junk yard which looked much newer than mine but when we installed it, no spark. I went back and replaced the distributor for another at the same junk yard and the same thing happened, no spark.
I live in a very remote small town and this is the best mechanic that I have found, but they are not sophisticated, no real shops, diagnostic equipment, etc. After going through the expense, trouble, and having my mechanic tell me that it may be the computer, I decided to investigate myself and read a problem that appeared similar to mine indicating that it may be possible that the Crank Position Sensor may be bad.
This is what I read on a post on a different forum: "The first thing I would do is to check out and thest the CRANK SHAFT SENSOR. If this has shorted internally, you may have destroyed the IGNITION MODULE and or the COMPUTER. You might be lucky in that the crank sensor is the only faulty item."
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I've got a 91 prizm where on a recent roadtrip the transmission went out on the freeway. While driving 75mph, i heard a quick ping sound, then a quick wheel skip followed by the sound of my transmission turning itself into gravel. We had just enough time to get off to the side, but i knew it was done.
I live in San Francisco and don't feel like getting a new car only to get it covered in dings from all the bad drivers around here. So naturally i replaced the transmission in my 22 year old car. yikes. It needs to be stated at this point that the car has run flawlessly it's entire lifetime and I'm the original owner - had no reason to expect otherwise after replacing the transmission.
The shop that changed it was a large shop, AAA recommended and Owner-operated. They told me the transmission was from a car from Japan where transmission replacement is standard. (I did not know this).
Now however, the car has a misfire. No perceivable misfire for the first two minutes she's running, but then constantly misfiring every couple seconds. At stop lights, you can feel the car almost want to stop, but then step on the gas and runs ok, but can still feel the misfire until she gets up to speed. The car runs just a smudge rougher so we believe it's still misfires while at speed, just not noticeable.
Timing belt only has 10,000 miles.
Timing is dead on.
Wires are good, just changed the distributor, coil and plugs. As i understand it, the throttle position sensor is integral to the distributor, so that's new as well.
Fuel pressure is right on.
No warning lights on dash.
At this point, I can't keep throwing money at her. The transmission was 5-6 months of a car payment for a new car. Would there be a reason that the car would have a misfire after getting the transmission replaced?
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