Geo - Prizm :: 1995 - No Spark At Distributor
Dec 31, 2013
My car was running perfectly, then one day I parked into my home and that was the last time it started. A mechanic came by and showed me that the distributor was not creating a spark and that I needed a new distributor. I bought one at a junk yard which looked much newer than mine but when we installed it, no spark. I went back and replaced the distributor for another at the same junk yard and the same thing happened, no spark.
I live in a very remote small town and this is the best mechanic that I have found, but they are not sophisticated, no real shops, diagnostic equipment, etc. After going through the expense, trouble, and having my mechanic tell me that it may be the computer, I decided to investigate myself and read a problem that appeared similar to mine indicating that it may be possible that the Crank Position Sensor may be bad.
This is what I read on a post on a different forum: "The first thing I would do is to check out and thest the CRANK SHAFT SENSOR. If this has shorted internally, you may have destroyed the IGNITION MODULE and or the COMPUTER. You might be lucky in that the crank sensor is the only faulty item."
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I recently replaced the head gasket on a 95 Geo Prizm. Now when I tried to start it, all I get is the starter clicking. I tried tapping the starter solenoid, to no effect. The only electrical that I messed with during the head gasket replacement was to disconnect the battery.
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Had issues with TBI, rebuilt. Had some starting problems after truck sat for 1 day or more, but would start after a few tries. At one point when it was particularly stubborn, starter lead vibrated off. Once reconnected, truck started, ran fine, but had some electrical humming & radio interference. The starting issue continued with some low rpm stumbling, when driving check engine light would come on at cruising speeds and go off 7-8 seconds after letting off gas.
Had 1 day lest week when I drove a bit more then normal (150+) but ran fine other then engine light. Next day started, but ran horribly rough with violent back fires. At one point stalled and would not restart. It looked and acted like it was flooding itself out and poor spark. Less then a year I replaced cap, rotor and coil. Now I have done all new plugs and wires. Now it appears I have no spark. I had been in the dash messing with the blower motor relay 2 days prior to the stalling and not starting.
Does the ECM control spark? Cant it go bad slowly? And if I had to do alot of cranking of the engine to get it to start, would that have any thing to do with it going bad?
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my 1995 buick regal does not have a spark, and I have had 2 mechanics look at it. The sereptine belt broke while I was driving, I believe it was because the water pump was bad and locked up. the belt got wrapped up in the crank pulley and I removed it. The AC has not worked in a really long time so I do not think that it is that pulley. It is not getting a spark. I have replaced the water pump, and the car sounds like it wants to start but it is getting no spark to it. I have had the crank sensor tested and the coil something. none of those seems to be the problem. some one suggested that it is the computer brain. I suggested that it was the timing. Though I do not really know. the battery is good so i know it is not that. and it has fuel. and i know that the engine is getting fuel. I know that the spark plugs are not getting spark (tested with a screwdriver in the socket on metal) So what is wrong with it.
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Recently replaced head on my 95 civic 1.6 Vtec, i had to replace the head gasket a few years ago so i know what to do. My problem now is that it will not start and has no spark to the plugs, i have new plugs, wires, rotor and cap, even tried a new distributor but took it back since it changed nothing. I pulled a plug wire, removed the plug and plugged it into the wire, turned the engine over and no spark.I've checked voltage to the distributor with ignition switch on and as far as i can tell it's getting voltage to the distributor. But when i try to crank it the engine turns over but will not start. It is getting gas, i took the fuel rail off with the injectors and checked for flow. I've taken timing cover off a couple of times to make sure all timing settings were as they should be. I even went ahead installed a new ignition switch which made no difference. Waste of time and money. I've checked several times to make sure all electrical connections are good. I really hope this turns out to be a simple fix but right now i'm at a loss. ECM maybe?
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Car was parked nose slightly uphill. would turn over strong, but wouldn't catch ignition after long tries. I dinked around for 5 under the hood for 10 minutes in the 30 degree weather, and then after a medium long try, it started and ran. started fine after a 45 minute stop with the nose pointed slightly downhill. Then after 10 miles the engine shut off suddenly at 40mph with no warning. there was never any diminution of power in the acceleration. would not start again after many tries with plenty of revolutions. It did seem the cab lights were a little finicky/dim, but I couldn't tell if that was electrical weakness or just old car cab light switches. didn't behave the way a battery related ignition problem would. no check engine light.
Cop pulled up and wanted it off the busy road, and long story short it wound up at this shop I don't know anything about. the guy there said it started and ran fine for the 45 minutes or so he had it in the garage, but then it shut off. it wouldn't ignite when he sprayed throttle body cleaner into it while cranking the key. I think he said he did something else to confirm there was no spark. he's got his theories about what is wrong, but doesn't want to commit to anything unless he can burn some $100/hr time diagnosing.
I'm hoping it is not the ignition control module, ECM or especially the crankshaft position sensor.
95 GT Convertible - 5sfe
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I have a 1995 Celica that I've owned about 6 months. Great car until it broke down last week. It's an automatic and it spluttered to a stop as I was pulling into a car park (how polite). I've traced the problem to the ignition not creating a spark (removed and observed spark plug while engine turning over), but cannot find root cause. I replaced the engine management system this morning to no avail. A passerby mentioned that the 'igniter' which is built into the distributor casing might be the root cause of the problem.
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My dad and I are having allot of trouble getting our Aerostar to start up . It is getting fuel and spark , and it won't even run with starter fluid . It was running ruff before this . It is getting an all clear on the OBD codes . We took one spark plug out and it was pretty dirty , could that be our problem? Like I said we are getting spark , when we do a spark test . We are totally out of clues .
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I have had this car for about 6 months and it already had 1 problem with starting becasue of the key error (easily fixed)
now, like it says in the title it is turning over, lights work, taking fuel, but not starting. It might be flooding but i think that the fact it has a new engine (well I got it changed right when i got it)
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My 95 Ranger has been a good truck in the 6 years I've owned it. I had to pull the heads to replace a leaking head gasket and wound up having the heads rebuilt due to weak valve springs and worn valves. I replaced the gaskets, installed the heads, get it all back together.....won't start. Fuel pressure is good. Found that there is no spark. While putting the crankshaft position sensor connector back on I noticed it didn't look too good. I replaced the connector and that's all I did and no spark. Long story short, after a lot of research, the coil pack, cps and coolant temp sensor were replaced and still no spark.
Everything has the proper voltage to it. After a little more research I found a post with the same basic issue. His issue wound up being the ecm. So I removed the ecm....it's a used one from a salvage yard. I've owned the truck 6 years so I have no idea when the ecm was replaced. It showed up today and will get installed when I get home from work. I also ran across posts about the camshaft sunchronizer and they should be replaced at about 80K miles. Since the truck has 289K I'll replace it. Still no spark. I'm hoping it's the ecm.
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Anyway I have a 88 s10 blazer that will not start, I've replaced fuel pump, filter, charcoal canister, also the rotor, cap, plug wires, module, pick up coil and ignition coil. Before I changed the pickup, it would start till it warmed up then die, wouldn't start again unless I gave it gas, if I held it steady the rpm would fluctuate but stay running till I let go of the throttle. Now that I've replaced the pickup coil it turns over, I do have spark but it will not start. I bought a code reader all I'm getting is code 12 which is no distributor signal to ecm. Like I said I e replaced both the module and pick up coil.
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I have a '79 D100 that needs a new distributor. I've removed the two necessary bolts that I know of. I've tried to twist it, and will will barely turn. I've tried to pry it up. I've loosened a few bolts in the area to see if that relieved pressure. I've degreased the area and sprayed WD40 at the base of it and still nothing.
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I have a 1950 GMC truck that I restored with a 350 small block v8 with a stock set-up. I now have 30K on the motor and it runs great except for one problem: The module in the HEI distributor keeps failing. The mileage between failures is random: 3k, 5K, 8K. I have now put in 8! I pull the module out and test it: Yep, cooked. I have replaced the cap, coil, and alternator. I think the distributor is not grounded properly. There is no tach attached to it. What is the source of problem? Should I just replace the whole distributor and hope for the best?
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how long should the bolts be that mount the distributor to the (non-california) 5sfe? I'm putting my car back together (finally) and the only bolts from my pile that fit are one that is too long, and two that are only a couple threads longer than the width of the distributor flange. simplest conclusion is that the latter are the bolts that were there, but does that seem right?
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I'm going to be freshening up my distributor for my 1950 Cadillac, and I think because of bad weather stripping and other leaks, when it rains heavy, moisture might be getting on the distributor. Is there something I can spray on it that will repel moisture or would just a healthy dose of dielectric grease do the trick?
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I have a 92 chevy truck with a 350 engine that came out of a 93 chevy my problem is my module in the distributor keeps going bad when i spoke with the previous owner of the motor he told me that he had the same problem and advised me to change the distributor. So I took my distributor out of the original motor and put in but the problem still exist, also I have noticed that I have nearly twice the exhaust coming from the drivers side tail pipe as I do the passengers side.
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I have a 92 k1500 with the 5.0 L in it. I suspect the distributor drive gear is worn, and even if its not it isn't going to hurt anything to replace it because its the original OEM drive gear and the engine has 233k miles on it. So what I'm looking for step by step process removal and re installation?
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My 94 Honda Accord's distributor runs with the ignition switch off. Car will not start. Does this with master relay and 50 amp ignition fuse removed.
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My jeep wont start if I tighten the distributor bolt, it will start and run fine if i leave the distributor loose. Has been running that way for 2 years and i just was wondering what would cause that kind of problem... 1991 Jeep Cherokee Laredo inline 6 ....
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I drive a 1970 Jeep Cj5 which I've dubbed, "The Red Bucket" because, well, it's red (duh) and because of its complete lack of doors, top, roll cage, and a folded down windshield. Anyway, I drove it to work about 2 days ago. Started fine, drove fine, no problems. When I came back from work it started fine. As I drove down the parking garage, the engine, a Buick Dauntless v6, just stopped. it didn't really even sputter either, just stopped, leaving me rolling down the garage with no power steering.
Now, at this point, I just though I had flooded it, happens all the time so I figured, "Hey, no big deal." If I've flooded it good, I normally only have to wait about 10 minutes till it springs back to life. However, after 10 minutes, 20 minutes, and 30 minutes, I was forced to call home to get a ride. Now I am a little worried, but I shrug it off thinking I have just flooded it really, really, really, bad. I drive up the next day to try and start it again, but only to find it in the same condition as the day before, starter turning, lights working, but still nothing.
Now, my knowledge of cars really doesn't go any farther than YouTube. I'd consider myself a "car guy," but I am no mechanic. That being said, based on my knowledge of distributor caps, my current hypothesis is that for whatever reason my distributor cap is not functioning. To go into more detail, there is starter noise, but no vibration or noise from pistons beginning to move and fire. Also, roll starting did not work and I am not out of gas, good thoughts though.
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my mechanic is stump have a 1997 Nissan pickup 2.4 liter auto tranny. number 2 cylinder misfiring.my mechanic say it have fuel, spark. and he did a compression check say compression is good. code (p. o 302) keep coming on. he change spark plug and wire and distributor cap and rotor. but light keep coming on. he say the only other thing he can think may be is. to change the whole distributor he say the cam sensor is in the distributor. tuck have 264,000 mile on it.
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