Geo - Metro :: Battery Is Losing Charge?
Feb 17, 2011
New battery, new terminals but my car won't turn over if I need to make a quick stop somewhere. I must wait at least an hour for the proper amount of voltage to build up and then the car starts just fine. What is going on?
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I've bought a used prius v ,the mileage is now 72k and as of monday (2 days ago) the maintenance reqd light came on intermittently when I start the car. So, I checked and saw that this meant it was due for a service, no big deal.
I don't know if it's linked but Monday I drove about 360 miles and then last night (Tuesday) I noticed my battery drained quickly on a 7 mile trip , it went down to 2 bars (they became blue on the car display) and took forever to go back up. Then same thing this afternoon but funnily enough, not this morning.
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I just purchased a 2004 Prius. When I am driving the battery seems to work fine but yet the battery loses charge when I am sitting in the car while running on idle. The battery goes down to 2 bars and the engine has to kick in to charge the battery. I have no check engine lights. Does this mean my battery needs to be replaced? If so then what are your thought on rebuilt batteries.
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I have a 2005 Prius with about 170,000 km on it. I bought it two years ago used at 150,000 km. Everything worked fine for about 8 months, them I noticed the main battery started to drain on first start in the morning after driving a short distance. It would drop down to about 2-3 bars most days, especially on cold mornings. After reading on this forum for a bit I turned off the key locator, and it went back to normal for about 6 months, at which point it started dropping again. I haven't had any warning lights come on yet.
I replaced the 12 V battery, as recommended here with an Optima Yellow Top, even though the original one showed no voltage drop. It actually tested higher than the new Yellow Top I got. My fear is that the traction battery is losing modules. I'm planning on testing them soon.
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I have a 97 GEO Metro LSI (1.3 liter 4 cyl.) A/T w/ AC. Recently serviced the Transmission (i.e. dropped the pan, replaced filter etc..) and put new fluid in. Shortly after this, the battery light came on and the car began overheating. The vehicle is losing zero coolant/water. Dunno if the transmission service is related but mentioned it since it was so close in time to the current problem. Here is what I've done since.
~Replaced Thermostat (no result)
~Noticed that the Electric Fan Motor in front of AC is not working
~Replaced Fan Motor Relay (no result)
~Direct wired the Electric Fan Motor (AC) to battery.. IT Worked!!! and the car does not overheat HOWEVER, now the batter drains quickly and the AC blower is running 50% at full speed. As soon as I disconnect my direct wire.. the AC blows full on again but naturally the Electric Fan does not work
How to approach this problem?????
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I bought a 95 geo metro it ran for a few days then stop running. i have replaced about everything, new plugs, spark plug wires, sensors carborator etc. it seems like maybe it could be the timing but timing seems on. it wont turn over.
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I've been told that my 12V battery was low.
I stumbled on this ATV/ motorcycle battery companion in the garage, can I use it to charge my prius?
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I just bought a new 2001 Grand Prix. I am not completely car savvy, but I know a few things for a lady.
The battery won't hold a charge.
and the computer diagnostic tester thing says the Headlamp Relay is malfunctioning.
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I've had the car for about 24 hours. I love it so far. My one question seems to be that the battery doesn't seem to charge all the way up. There seems to be room for 2 more bars to be completely full. Is this normal? Something to be concerned about? How this works, but if it is supposed to be full to the top, I probably should go back to the dealer?
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I'm wondering if there's a way to force the ICE to charge the HV battery, either while standing or driving. Currently, EV Mode kicks in while coasting down a hill, and I would rather use those moments to effectively charge the battery rather than trickle charge with what little gain that gravity gives me.
I know there was a way on other models to charge the battery while standing by depressing the accelerator in park (or in drive with the brake depressed), but neither method works with the 2015 Prius C. The battery continues to drain while the ICE runs in park, and it refuses to run in D or B while the brake and accelerator are pressed at the same time.
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My battery on my Celica wouldn't hold a charge, as if my alternator was faulty but i took it to Azone and it was fine. Replaced battery around a month ago so i doubt that's the problem..checked fuses and "charging" fuse in fuse box next to battery was not getting current to i ran direct current to from battery it and it seem to have fixed the problem for about a DAY, then fuse blew..replaced it but it still seems to have the same problem ): btw the battery and brake lights stay on..
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On the Gen III Prius, is the Battery indicator that is displayed on the HSI an actual 0-100% charge indication of the battery?
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I've had my C a week and a half and it is doing great, but I wonder if the system is ok. It has never shown the battery at 100%. My Civic would charge all the way quite often.
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Took my C to the local drive through car wash as it was pretty crusty looking from all of the rain we've had lately. I had my A/C on as its a nice and warm sunny Florida day. Pulled inside and put my C in Neutral to go through the wash and half way through my car started beeping like mad and flashing the "!" in a triangle symbol and on the small screen it said something to the effect of "Cannot charge traction battery when car is in 'N'." My HVAC system drained down the traction battery and since the car was in neutral the engine couldn't keep it above the minimum SOC level. Turned the air off and anxiously waited for the car wash to hurry up so I could put it in drive. After I put the car in drive the SOC read 1 blue bar and took FOREVER to charge back (or perhaps it just seemed that way because I was freaking out..)
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I am thinking of installing amp in 2010 prius. Question how is the 12v battery keeps its charge. I am assuming the amp will be drawing power from 12v battery. When the engine kicks on during driving it is charging the hybrid battery. I am afraid of killing the power from 12v battery.
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I've had the alternator and starter tested twice,new battery. Its a 97infiniti qx4 and it won't hold a charge. The weird thing is, I have to wait day or two after I charge the new battery (which I replaced twice thinking it was the battery),then it will run for almost a day and then it just dies. And if someone tries to give me a jump, it will not charge and fire over. I have to get it towed back home and wait a day or two. (the wrecking companies are getting to know me very well). I've checked under the vehicle for any wires that are not suppose to be touching each other. Its my only car that I have at this time
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I have been getting all sorts of weird messages and warnings for a few weeks now, and have previously posted about them. I have a service appointment next Monday.
Today I decided to check my driver's side battery and found only 11.6 volts. I am charging it as we speak. It will be interesting to see if it holds a charge. If not, then the battery is definitely bad.
The question becomes whether the bad battery is the only bad item, or whether it is the power management controller also.
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Prius battery charge display is not very meaningful. Those line bars are not telling me much.
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My sister owns a 2004 Kia Amanti. The battery will not hold a charge. The battery has been replaced several times. the alternator and regular and anything else that could drain the battery has been checked. All ground posts have been cleaned. At first the battery would go dead every 3 to 5 days but now you have to start the car every day or it will die. They say there is a 7ohm drain on the battery that can't be located. The latest suggestion is to replace the wiring in the driver's side door. What would be causing this?
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Seen the battery charge level at 100%? The battery charge display seems to never go up to the top bar. I think I may have noticed it once, but I might have been dreaming that.
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1990 Dodge Cummins, 111,000 miles - does not charge, is not putting out. Installed new Chrysler alternator from NAPA and isolated field electronic regulator. Parts store (NAPA) checked the alt., said it is OK. Cleaned all ground/hot connections. Battery is 12.6 v. Have 12 v power at reg. and alt. Key "on" and both field pins hot (12v).
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