Geo - Metro :: 1996 - Popping 15 Amp Ignition Fuse Randomly?
Apr 18, 2011
My 96 Metro for some reason is popping the 15 amp ignition fuse randomly. First time it happened I disconnected the alternator and replaced the fuse and it got me home. Pulled the alternator and had it tested and it tested fine. Put it back in and everything worked for about a month. It popped the fuse again while driving down the road. I disconnected the alternator again but this time the fuse still blew. I disconnected the coil replaced the fuse turned on the key and the fuse did not pop. I reconnected everything and it worked fine. Hasn't repeated itself in a week. I think there is a short somewhere. Just can't find it.
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I have a 1996 geo metro that I have been working on for the last couple days. The problem that I have been running into is the ignition fuse keeps blowing the instant that the key is turned.
This kills the power to the fuel pump as well as the power to the ECM. (killing all the idiot lights). The engine still cranks over and all the accessories still work.
I have tried disconnecting the fuel pump wires as well as the ECM and the ignition module to try and narrow down the problem but the fuse still blows about 2 seconds after I turn the key.
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I believe this fuse has to do with radio and convenience options? 2004 mk4 GLI 1.8t. A few weeks back, the fused popped. I replaced it, and drove fine for a few more weeks. Shut off randomly, so I put a fuse in, try to start, it cranks like usual, but doesnt start. Tried with several different 20a fuses. It pops all of them the second I crank the car. Obviously there is a short somewhere. Where? Or know where fuse 37 goes?
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I have a '96 Dodge Stratus that keeps blowing fuse #20, which is for the fuel pump and the ignition. How to isolate the problem? This happens as soon as the key is turned on. The car has 140,000 miles and runs excellent otherwise.
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Every time you engage the car in drive it blows a fuse. I have checked through the wiring but cannot see what the cause is.
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My '93 Metro 3 cyl (The Phoenix) is becoming a bit 'Long in the Tooth'...
Now, this summer, it has started creaking and popping when I go over wavy roads or take sharp curves at speed.
If I accelerate/decelerate the frame pops over on the passenger side and I hear pops in the trunk area.
I wonder how much longer it will be safe to drive.
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I have a 1996 Geo Metro LSI 1.3L, automatic trans.
ISSUE #1
The airbag light will not go off. I replaced the air bag control module under the shifter console and the front impact sensor near the hood latch. No effect. What is my next step? I was thinking of replacing the steering column sensor/module.
ISSUE #2
Note: I also replace the ECU to no avail. I did this because the check engine light keeps coming on. I clear the code, but "low emission threshhold) code keep returing. Does this mean my catalytic converter is gone, or could it be the O2 sensors?
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Geo Metro loose head bolts... I have a 96 Metro, and for some reason the head bolts loosen by themselves, leading to over heating and planing head ... well you know.I had a farm for 20 years and took care of all equipment myself, have rebuilt numerous motors, but this geo is the first I have seen where the bolts loosen. This is the third time. I know they are tightened right , because I have the tools and experience, but not with this. Other than jb weld in the bolt holes.
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I bought a 95 geo metro it ran for a few days then stop running. i have replaced about everything, new plugs, spark plug wires, sensors carborator etc. it seems like maybe it could be the timing but timing seems on. it wont turn over.
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I have a well maintained '96 Celica 2.2 and for the first time in years it started acting up on the way home last night.
I got on the highway and was cruising at 65 and it started hesitating and popping and finally forced me to the side of the road. I was then able to start off again and reached about 60 all the way home but it was hesitating and not a smooth ride at all.
When I got to a red light at the off ramp, it died. I started it and it drove rough on local streets until I got home.
This morning I started it and it fired right up but then died immediately. Did that twice. Just tried again and it won't even start but just pops and makes noises like it's out of gas, even though 1/2 full.
Check Engine Light is on. I tried jumping E1 and TE1 but nothing happened.
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2001 Audi A4 1.8T Quattro. Also may it be related to same car going into a deep puddle of water ( road was dark ). It was towed to nearest mechanic, where "engine was flushed". What does an engine flush entail? and how can I best disconnect the car alarm?
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I am trying to put in after market keyless entry on my 03 sd wired up my relays according to the 5 wire alternating door locks found on this page
[URL]....
but it keeps popping my fuse when I try to put it in, if this is even the correct set up I found another guy on here that used the same set up but never said if it worked or not
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I drive a 2006 Ford Focus. Last night, when I turned on my car, a number of things happened. (I should add that it was very cold, if that makes a difference)
1) My dashlights no longer work. The warning lights work fine, and I have checked the dial to make sure they are turned up, but I can no longer see what speed I am going when it is dark.
2) My taillights no longer work. One of the bulbs had previously blown, but now, the only ones that work are the rear blinkers.
3) My left driver side headlight is no longer working.
4) My trunk randomly kept popping open as I was driving. It has stopped doing so, but I am not sure if the problem is gone for good.
The mechanic wants to charge me $100 / hr just to even check the problem and indicated the diagnostics may take several hours. Having just replaced two tires, that option is far beyond my means.
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I have a 2003 Camry with 116k miles, 4 cyl, auto trans. I have been starting to feel some popping on my steering wheel whenever I hit a bump or turned the wheels. It happened randomly. Today I rotated my 4 tires and found this on my left front strut. I am attaching 2 pictures. Hope they are good enough for the experts to see. This is on the left strut. I don't know if its a tie rod. And when I shook it to see if it was causing the popping feel...indeed it was loose.
All I know it isn't good to see something like that. I want to know what this is, could I do it myself and what can I do about it?
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What would cause the air bag fuse to blow as soon as I turn on the ignition?
Have tried replacing the fuse and this happens (fuse blows out) each time.
95 3.8L... nearly fully rebuilt.
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I have had this car for sum yrs never had any problem a couple months back while driving it would just shut off. Well come to find out my ign fuse would be blowing. I would replace it and it would start up and run just fine. Since then my daughter owns the car and it happened again and she replaced the fuse and it started up fine but while out of town it just shut off and now even if you replace the fuse it just blows. Just as you turn the key, it blows. So i did sum research and replaced the ignition switch. Tryed to start it and it still blows so im at my wits end. If I knew what every component that fuse ran , i could figure it out by process of elimination. I have the Chilton book but i still can't seem to find what all components that one ign fuse runs. It is a 94 grand am 3.1 v6....
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We bought a 1996 Subaru Outback Legacy Wagon a year ago. It has a salvaged title with some back-end damage that doesn't seem to effect the overall ride of the car. The car really seems to run fine, but the main problem is it randomly won't start. We can drive it short or long distances. It will start just fine 5 to 10 times in a row and then - BAM - we go to leave somewhere and it won't start. It makes a sound like it is trying to turn over, but it just doesn't have that last spark to start...until you wait approximately 10 minutes, then it starts again like nothing happened. We changed the fuel filter thinking it might have a blockage, but to no avail. We live in Portland, Oregon, so we get all four seasons of weather. The temperature does not seem to be of any consequence.
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As the title states I own a '96 Grand Prix GTP with the 3.4L engine. I had been having a problem with my coolant leaking so I took it in to a shop I usually trust, they pressurized the system and found my water pump was leaking. Not surprising, I had suspected it was having issues. So they replaced it and all was good for about a day or two. I live about 5 - 10 minutes from work and as soon as I drove it longer than that, it started overheating at random intervals. I took it back in and they told me it was probably my head gasket but they couldn't see any visible evidence of it going bad so they said it must be in the early stages.
I was not satisfied, I hadn't had any problem until after the water pump was replaced and I've never had any major engine issues. I finally managed to nail down a sort of pattern to the overheating. It only starts to overheat once it has been running for awhile, whenever it does overheat neither of my radiator fans turn on, turning to the right while driving cools it down, turning it to the left while driving allows it to overheat again, revving the engine when it overheats ALWAYS cools it back down at least for awhile. The other strange thing is that it will overheat for awhile and then stop and go back to normal operation, my fans will work again, and the temperature never climbs past 210. Then at another random interval, it will start overheating again.
It doesn't sound like a head gasket going bad to me but then I've never had one go out on me. It sounds more like I have a coolant flow problem (maybe the new water pump is faulty?) because every time I rev it, it cools down immediately. Or maybe I have a faulty sensor/thermostat/computer module since my fans never run when it overheats and it never overheats when my fans actually turn on? If it's a head gasket I'll deal with it but at this point I am a little skeptical.
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I have a 2004 Lariat 4x4 with a no start condition. I had lights, but it wouldn't crank. I then discovered that it would not shift out of park. Turns out that it had a blown fuse. I did not have any of that type (the funky square 20a fuses) so I pulled the heated seats fuse (30a) and threw it in there, tried to start it and blew it right away. Is there a common short to look for on these? I believe that the guy that owned it before me had a satellite radio in it, and could it be a bare wire from that setup possibly blowing the fuse?Just trying to get a head start on tracking down the short.
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96 Odyssey
While driving, the speedometer jumped around for a bit, then went back to normal function. The check engine light came on. I read the code (17 = Vehicle Speed Sensor). To reset the check engine light, I pulled the radio/PCM fuse for 1/2 hour and replaced. Now the car won't start. Engine is turning over but not firing.
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Have a 2007 GX 470 with 70,000 Miles. Recently we have had problems with the ignition getting stuck. Key will go in, but, will not turn. Happens randomly and unpredictably. Will start after a period of time. Sometimes 30 minutes, sometimes several hours. My not happen for a few weeks or sometimes 2 or 3 times a week. Neither Lexus or Toyota claims to have heard of this problem.
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