Geo :: Green Shift Light Flickering Fast
Jan 19, 2015
Recently my brother put my battery in my geo metro backwards ( having the best intentions) as I'm sure you know this blew quite a few fuses, I have also changed the computer, the cluster , all the relays , the ECM module & I still have the battery and check engine light on The car does run ( ok) I have tried the diagnostic port but all I'm getting is the green shift light flickering fast. I really want the car back to where it was before.
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So after my 500 mile break in I decide to see what my new set up is made of. Had the kinetics stage 3 and the south bend stage 3 clutch installed. Did my first launch...everything went great. Got just a little bit of spin and the car took off like a scud missile. Right as Im going to shift into second my Rpms go down fast. No weird noises no metallic sounds nothing. No fluid under the car. Only a slight clutch smell nothing crazy. Car wouldn't go into gear. Shut the car off and it goes into gear.
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Have a question when I shift slow from 2nd to 3rd my o2j tranny doesn't grind but when I shift fast from 2nd to 3rd it grinds it happens starting at 3000 Rpms thru 6000 Rpms. It also doesn't happen when I shift from 4th to 3rd. Have performed a tranny fluid change. Along with replacing the clutch at 1500 miles ago. The engine is AWP.
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Green AC light 1998 Camry. I turned the defroster on yesterday and it didnt work...just started fogging up windows worse... while this was going on the green AC light was blinking. Later the defrost worked fine and the green AC light did not blink .... What exactly the green light is indicating. I would assume it indicates the compressor is on and working.. but dont understand why it blinked and did not work at that time I mentioned, and started working again with nothing being done.
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The green A/C light on my 2002 Camry (4 cyl) will start to flash after the the A/C is turned on. After reading about the relay fix I tried swapping relays and had the same symptoms. The compressor will engage and for the few seconds that its engaged it will just barely start to blow cooler air until it starts to flash. I then noticed that with the relay completely removed I would also get the flashing light after a few seconds when the A/C was turned on but the air would not start to turn cold.
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The outside temperature has been cold since the purchase of my 07 SC almost 2 weeks ago (below freezing F ). The A/C green light has not been lit. My 05 SC, the light was on all the time. Dealer says the system will turn the A/C off in certain circumstances in very cold conditions.
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My AC amazingly still works, but it does seem to have a small leak - I have to recharge it every few years. This time I put some stop leak in it. My problem is that it will sometimes randomly turn off. Apparently the compressor kicks off. Most of the time it works fine, just occasionally I will see the green light for the AC disappear, and then air stops getting cold. Sometimes the light will turn back on again on its own.
I did a pressure test and came up with some odd results. When I charged it I loaded it to around 25 psi, as the manual says, but I noticed that when the car is off, the reading is around 60 psi (the normal value should be about 50). Is that a problem? Also, do I need to add more AC oil, ever, unless the AC is disassembled? I was never fully sure about that from what the manual said.
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Because I got rid of the crappy stock mirror!! I do not like the auto-dim function at all.. so now I have the option to turn it on and off..and the green LED tells me when it is on.
The dimmer function button on the bottom there are 2 red LED for a nice subtle glow on the dash..ambiance.
[IMG] [URL] ....
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I've got a 2010 Prius w/ NAV. Yesterday morning, my Prius would not start. When I pressed on the brake, the green "Ready" button would not light up. When I pressed the start button, the NAV screen came on as did some of the dash lights, but the car engine itself was not on. When I hit the start button again, I had a yellow triangle on the left side of my screen that continued to blink.
From reviewing the forum, I believe that the issue is the 12V aux battery. I was able to get my car into maintenance mode, and the 12V battery was reading 8.6V; however, this was after my car had sat in the garage for 10 or so hours. However, by going into maintenance mode, I was again able to get my car to start. This morning, I drove my car to work (about a 15-20 minute drive). After I got to the office, I turned the car off and got back into maintenance mode. This time, it was reading 11.6V on the battery.
Am I correct that this is most likely an issue w/ the 12V battery going bad on me? I purchased my Prius in July 2010, and I have never changed the battery. It sounds like the "typical" lifespan for the battery is right around 4 years, so this seems to make sense.
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2002 Camry 4-cly. Last year, we the A/C light blink and the relay switch was then replaced. Worked for a bit, but then realized the Compressor Clutch was sticking and causing it to not turn on, at times shutting the engine off at idle!
Me and the wife replaced the entire AC system (Per regional mechanic)
AC Compressor
Accumulator
Desiccant
Well, the AC intermittently comes on and the A/C green light would flash. Over the past several weeks, the AC eventually become non-functional. Bringing the car back into the shop for a warranty claim, they measured the electrical power on the Compressor and it checks out fine. Paid $50 for the "diagnostic" and they suggested replacing the relay once again. We have an official Toyota (Denso) and one from AutoZone, and tried both relays with no luck. I don't know what else could be checked or considered being replaced?
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While pressing the brake, the green light never comes on. The car is less than two weeks old and this is happening.
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I have a 2010 Prius that I bought in January. No problems until this morning. Here is the situation...
I get in my car, step on the brake, mash the start button and nothing. The green ready light does not come on, no key detected does not come on, nothing. However, if I take my FOB, and place it by the start button, the ready light will come on and it will start.
I thought it could be a battery issue but, this happens with both FOBs...
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The green light comes on but the cruise control does not engage. It did work one time the other day but usually doesn't. What should I check?
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AC does not work on Sonata 2006. It blows hot air.
1. Freon pressure is high level in red and I didn't add any new freon.
2. Checked fuse 7 A/Con and 19 A/C Relay and both are OK.
When I click on AC on/off green light on AC panel the light is lit but I don't hear any loud clicking sound.
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I kept my car more than 6 days in my garage and today I tried to start my car but, unfortunately smart key did not work. once i kept my hand under the door handle i can here a small click noise but it is not the usual noise and the turn light even did not flash, still the door is locked so i tired to unlock with the mechanical key. Then I enter to the car and i press the break paddle I heard a long motor noise as usual but this is bit longer noise. then i saw my smart key appears on the dash board but the car did not start up . again i tried to on the car I here a knocking noise and the green light on the power button blinks. I tried several times no luck. what will be the problem will it be 12v battery?
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I drive a 92 Volvo 240 with under 100,000 miles on it. Previous owner never really drove it, had it for about four years now. During the winter we seem to have electrical issues; back in 2009 I turned the car on after going shopping and drove immediately, while driving I got a green light and was braking around the corner the car just cut out completely. Got it to a mechanic and they replaced the whole electrical system, issues never reappeared for another two years. 2010 only issue was it need a new transmission, so I put in a used one. Four months later, February I believe, this time it would not start at all and it was night time. Got it towed to the mechanic and the next day he called me, said nothing was wrong with it started right up.
Now we are here November 22, 2011 and the car has cut out on me twice in the pas week. The first time was a dark cold night, got it towed to the mechanic and started up the next day like nothing was the issue. The mechanic joked that it likes to play dead and it starving for attention. The second time it was in broad day light and it started about again 30 minutes later.
3 out 4 times my car cut it happened while applying the brake and from a short distance from where it was parked. Also note that during the night during the winter the battery light will have a light glow to it, also when purchased the owner put it a newer radio system, sometimes when the brakes are applied it will cut out, during the winter is when its more common.
After it happened a third time and the mechanics were stumped, I decided to go to a much reliable source.
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The little green light on my Parking brake button does not illuminate when i push the button to let me know if its on and I am also getting a message on my dash saying Check Parking brake system and have vehicle checked by a dealer. What my problem could be before I take the vehicle to a dealer? Apparently the automatic parking brake is not working at all and the little green light doesnt light up when the button is pressed. I have a 07 ls460 with 112k
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Is there any way to turn off the little green light bulb icon in the instrument panel? I run my dash light at minimum brightness and that little light bugs me.
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I notice that my Electronic Parking brake doesnt seem to work anymore and I no longer have the little green light that illuminates where the parking brake switch is. Also, I now have a message on the dash that say check parking brake system have vehicle checked by dealer.
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2001 Accord, 6cyl. 3.0, automatic transmission. The last few weeks its been shifting a little rougher, but nothing thatd alarm me. Then last night, the check engine light popped on and the little green light around the D4 on the dash began blinking. I turned it off for a minute, restarted it and blinking light was gone but not check engine. Sat there and shifted through all the gears and the only thing I don't like is when i go from D3 to 2 and back. It shifts real hard there. Not as hard shifting back from 2 to D3 though. All other gears shift fine.
Also, I checked the fluid on the dipstick and it was right under the lower dot. Its my wifes old car and she "doesn't remember" if shes ever had the tranny flushed and a buddy said if it hasn't been flushed regularly by this point(125K miles), not a good idea to flush, just drain and refill. (Green blinking light around gear indicator) and what was the fix? Is it difficult to drain/refill the tranny and can I refill this model through the dipstick or do I have to get underneath? Do I REALLY have to use Honda ATF only or can I use whatever??
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I just purchased my first VW about a month ago. (Golf tsi white auto). I love the way the car drives/handles. But I was surprised because at just under a 1000 miles the engine light went on. Took it to VW service to check it out. They had to keep it for a few days to do tests with the main VW center. I got the car back without much explanation other than they put in an O2 sensor.
No engine light now for a couple weeks. They also noticed that my wheels are missing 4 lug nut covers (not a big deal). For some reason I am just starting to notice the green brake light on when I first turn on the ignition prior to setting in reverse which disappears upon reverse or drive. I assume this is normal... Question: should I be concerned about this engine light O2 sensor issue?
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